Quote:
Originally Posted by LoudmouthGTO 
I came back here with a Mitsubishi WS-65857 issue as well. The issue has already been pointed out in this thread (Post 7603 Page 254), but mine may be different. The TV goes on fine, but the picture is blue with no video. The menu does not come up, only the screen turns black. Simple OSD things work like volume, contrast brightness, input... The convergence is way out of whack. Same as in the video. Seems like the ICs may be bad but it may be something else (I have replaced ICs before).
Real confusing thing is I can get into the service menu, but in the convergence settings the values only go from -1 to 1 for all of the settings. Any idea what this may be caused by? Is this IC related?
Also, two of the guns have leaked coolant onto the board. There are a couple of spots on the signal board and the center board with the ICs.
Any help is appreciated. I do not want to throw money into new ICs if they are fine.
Or you could pick up a used DVDO VP30 on eBay for around $300 and get the full picture.

I came back here with a Mitsubishi WS-65857 issue as well. The issue has already been pointed out in this thread (Post 7603 Page 254), but mine may be different. The TV goes on fine, but the picture is blue with no video. The menu does not come up, only the screen turns black. Simple OSD things work like volume, contrast brightness, input... The convergence is way out of whack. Same as in the video. Seems like the ICs may be bad but it may be something else (I have replaced ICs before).
Real confusing thing is I can get into the service menu, but in the convergence settings the values only go from -1 to 1 for all of the settings. Any idea what this may be caused by? Is this IC related?
Also, two of the guns have leaked coolant onto the board. There are a couple of spots on the signal board and the center board with the ICs.
Any help is appreciated. I do not want to throw money into new ICs if they are fine.
Or you could pick up a used DVDO VP30 on eBay for around $300 and get the full picture.
The bugaboo on the leaked coolant issue is that the Signal board is a 4 layer board, and once compromised has a really hard time coming back. Some techs have been known to do it, but most just shy away when that happens. I can always save the 2 layer boards, but even I shy away from the 4 layer boards.
The trick is that the inner 2 layers are not involved. If you know that you at least have a fighting chance.
If any of the coolant has seeped under any of the ICs tho, you're probably SOL.
b






























