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Don't dump your CRT RPTV! - Page 326

post #9751 of 11733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgruessing68 View Post

Bob,

Thanks for the advice.

Good news! I fixed it! Bad news... I have no spare convergence assembly now. I knew one of the boards in the spare was bad. Fortunately, it was the bottom one, and the problem with this set was the top one.

So... for future reference... if you have a PRO-x10 with the symptom in my previous post, it is the top board in the convergence assembly that is bad, i.e. the one labeled: AWP6460.

I have to fix the geometry now, but the grid line issue is gone... looks much better.

Joe

If you want to give away the spare convergence assembly of both boards, even with the bad board, I could always use having a spare convergence board around for testing, even with that gliche in it.

b
post #9752 of 11733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tha3soa4Eew View Post

That's all why I'm still tweaking my year-2000 Philips 64PH9905, a 64" CRT RPTV. Might consider a fixed-pixel transition when large-screen FED or SED flat panels aren't too costly and aren't too 'digital' looking. Also, by then, suspect video processing such as the Realta HQV chips will see wider use. Maybe motion-compensated instead of just motion-adaptive deinterlacing will be available in consumer hardware.

Curious if you feel inverse telecine, reversing 2:3 pulldown for 1080i, with 1080p display at even frame multiples of movie 24 fps, has a significant advantage over CRT RPTVs if it eliminates judder normally visible with 1080/60i CRT display? -- John

When fed true 1080i, I see no noticeable judder on HD on our CRT sets. I believe 1080i is inherently 30fps, and to get 60fps you need to go to 1080p, but correct me if I'm wrong...

As such I would have to see what you have in mind against what we are watching every day on our 1080i CRT sets, to have that opinion.

Video multiples of film's 24fps - 48fps or 72fps, which is what James Cameron is now experimenting with - is the future of our present displays, to be sure, and reports I have seen from Cameron's camp are that 72fps progressive is truly a head and shoulders improvement over whatever we have today.


b
post #9753 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

If you want to give away the spare convergence assembly of both boards, even with the bad board, I could always use having a spare convergence board around for testing, even with that gliche in it.

b

Mr. Bob,

I'd be delighted to make a donation to the cause. Just send me the ship address to my private email and I'll send it off.

The top board has that glitch...but I suspect it's a single component causing the problem...maybe one of these on-board "chip" diodes. I say that because the problem has a grid line "snap" to it. But the board does work.

The bottom board should work, but does not presently. During one of my scavenger upgrade/fixes, I upgraded the chips on this board to 180s. Put the board in... did not work... puts the PS in safe mode. I suspect I was overzealous with the solder on this guy. Did not spend the time to analyze since I had another spare. It's probably a really simple fix for you... and then you have a board with brand new MCM 180s. My rate has been 10 success 1 fail. Not too bad all things considered.

You helped me here... I would have had a hard time parting with it, and it would have sat gathering dust as I never would have taken the time to fix it.

BTW, Do you happen to have any spare 610 or 620 front compartment doors? The one on this set has all the tabs broken... Hopefully you have some of those in a pile? Even though I am good at it, I'd rather not "MacGyver" it.

I still have a ton of Pioneer spare parts... three large boxes worth of x10 parts, including full CRT assemblies, boards, 5x0 screens, etc. if any one needs something...I might have it.

Joe
post #9754 of 11733
Thread Starter 
Joe -

Just sent you the address. I'll keep this post of yours above for when it arrives.

Afraid I don't have a door to send you, the 610 I use for testing the PS boards needs to stay complete for when I eventually sell it. Will keep my eyes peeled, tho.


People, I want to repeat my offer of a while ago: I could use a smaller unit for testing, don't need a 610 or 710, can go with a 510 or a suitable 520. If you are local to me here and have a 510 or suitable 520 - or 532 or suitable 533 - you'd like to trade me for my 610, I am willing to let you upgrade to the bigger size by trading with me, as long as you have me clean and calibrate your "new" 610 in the process, which has brand new upgraded 180 convergence chips in it already. I have never seen any screenburn on it; when I run out a board for a few hours after resoldering it, I put it onto an unused, blank input with completely black screen.

It would be a regular price calibration for you and me, but you'd make out by having your size upgraded from the 53" to the 58" version for free.


Joe, I just reread that terrific email you sent me more than a year ago outlining your adventures with these sets. As I mentioned in the email I just sent you, I don't remember seeing that adventure posted here on this thread, and at the Pioneer thread. Your comments on how your eyes gradually got opened by those adventures into finally realizing where I have already been all these years about these units, are priceless! You need to share them!

If I missed it, please enlighten me where it is on these 2 threads so that I and others can see it, possibly again. If you never did post it here, please do!



b
post #9755 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Joe -

Just sent you the address. I'll keep this post of yours above for when it arrives.

Afraid I don't have a door to send you, the 610 I use for testing the PS boards needs to stay complete for when I eventually sell it. Will keep my eyes peeled, tho.
...

Joe, I just reread that terrific email you sent me more than a year ago outlining your adventures with these sets. As I mentioned in the email I just sent you, I don't remember seeing that adventure posted here on this thread, and at the Pioneer thread. Your comments on how your eyes gradually got opened by those adventures into finally realizing where I have already been all these years about these units, are priceless! You need to share them!

If I missed it, please enlighten me where it is on these 2 threads so that I and others can see it, possibly again. If you never did post it here, please do!



b

Bob... conv assy will be on its merry way to your doorstep this afternoon. I am sending out some radio equipment for repair, so it was good timing (you thought I just tinkered with TV's? Ha!).

Thanks for the comments. Somehow my crazy adventure led me to owning three 510, 520, 710 Elites (giving one away), and my brother owning four! Plus, acquisitions, repairs, and shim mods for a half dozen friends as well. These are great TVs... if they only had a levitation device to go with... sigh.

I did post that one email I think you are referring to... over on the 510 thread probably well over a year and half ago now. If I have time, I can find it for you, or repost...if you think there really is interest.

Once I get my brother's repaired TV out of my garage, I will be moving my new precious 710 into my basement and performing the shim mod. Maybe one day I can have you over for one last bit of Mr. Bob magic on this set the next time you do a tour in the Balt/Wash area.

Keep an eye on your doorstep. I'll send it UPS.

Joe
post #9756 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgruessing68 View Post

Bob... conv assy will be on its merry way to your doorstep this afternoon. I am sending out some radio equipment for repair, so it was good timing (you thought I just tinkered with TV's? Ha!).

Thanks for the comments. Somehow my crazy adventure led me to owning three 510, 520, 710 Elites (giving one away), and my brother owning four! Plus, acquisitions, repairs, and shim mods for a half dozen friends as well. These are great TVs... if they only had a levitation device to go with... sigh.

I did post that one email I think you are referring to... over on the 510 thread probably well over a year and half ago now. If I have time, I can find it for you, or repost...if you think there really is interest.

Once I get my brother's repaired TV out of my garage, I will be moving my new precious 710 into my basement and performing the shim mod. Maybe one day I can have you over for one last bit of Mr. Bob magic on this set the next time you do a tour in the Balt/Wash area.

Keep an eye on your doorstep. I'll send it UPS.

Joe

Bob,

Just looked at the bottom board. I see the solder flub. I think you will have this working in 5 minutes. Going in the box.

Joe
post #9757 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post


If you remove the front panel you should be able to get to where the buttons solder to the small board. Undo one of the 2 critical legs at the button in question and it will be rendered inoperable, without affecting anything else. The button itself should be left in place so the outer button will still have something stopping it at the end of its travel.

That whole grouping of buttons is completely passive, there's no circuitry in there to damage or tinker with. They are all just parallel temporary-on buttons awaiting being pushed. So simply disco'ing one of them would be fine.

b

Great, thanks.

That button layout wasn't a very smart design, but I guess most people do use a remote (we're working on getting one still - I've got my eyes on a few on eBay). I swear, they added that reset button to the front just to annoy me.

- 2B
post #9758 of 11733
post #9759 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

How many devices do you have?
http://dealnews.com/Refurbished-Logi...ng/519414.html

Good deal at $44, but I just bought a new one (same model) from Costco two days ago for $54. For $10, I'd rather have a new one than a refurb, plus coming from Costco, it's got that great return policy (and no shipping).

Usually I buy used 659's off eBay for ~$30 (which will control up to 12 devices, btw) but this time I decided to give one of the newer ones a shot. (plus migrating from a 12-unit model to the 5-unit 650 allows me to bring more devices with me, although no changes can be made) I like it so far, although I miss the insane backlight of the 659. (the 650's lighted buttons seem serviceable enough, however, so far, although I've only really used it for one evening of TV at this point)
post #9760 of 11733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jgruessing68 View Post

Bob,

Just looked at the bottom board. I see the solder flub. I think you will have this working in 5 minutes. Going in the box.

Joe

Thanks, Joe. Was the flub at the legs string of one of the ICs?

b
post #9761 of 11733
Thread Starter 
Kalani -

Did you get the list of owners in your area I sent you, for our upcoming tour?

b
post #9762 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by LastButNotLeast View Post

How many devices do you have?
http://dealnews.com/Refurbished-Logi...ng/519414.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalani View Post


Good deal at $44, but I just bought a new one (same model) from Costco two days ago for $54. For $10, I'd rather have a new one than a refurb, plus coming from Costco, it's got that great return policy (and no shipping).

Usually I buy used 659's off eBay for ~$30 (which will control up to 12 devices, btw) but this time I decided to give one of the newer ones a shot. (plus migrating from a 12-unit model to the 5-unit 650 allows me to bring more devices with me, although no changes can be made) I like it so far, although I miss the insane backlight of the 659. (the 650's lighted buttons seem serviceable enough, however, so far, although I've only really used it for one evening of TV at this point)

For us, that's still a lot to spend on a remote. We're poor.

Thanks for the information though.

- 2B
post #9763 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Kalani -

Did you get the list of owners in your area I sent you, for our upcoming tour?

Yes, but I don't know when I'm going to have time to call and organize something... things are hectic at home and at work right now. I can offer up proposed dates but don't have time at the moment to take on organizing a whole tour.
post #9764 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Thanks, Joe. Was the flub at the legs string of one of the ICs?

b

Yes... looking at the bottom...examine the two outer pins on the left side of the inner chip.
post #9765 of 11733
Hi everyone,

I was lucky enough to stumble across this forum. Wow, what a wealth of information.

After spending a few days (during free time) reviewing the vast amount of posts, I am still uncertain as to what may be causing an issue with my PRO 530 hdi. I put the set into storage a few years ago when the problem first popped up. I have since moved and now have the space to get it going again as a second set. The set looks as good as the day it was delivered, and really doesn't have much viewing time on it (4 mild years of viewing) thus my desire to see it shine again. I never had the streaking problem, but went ahead and had the crt drive boards replaced while under warranty. It has also been calibrated a few times.

Long story short, when the issue first started the set would randomly lose picture while the sound output was not affected. The menu, input, volume, etc.. would appear when prompted but all would look terrible (more like the convergence was completely out). The set also exhibits a flashing blue streak across the set while this happens. After a few minutes the picture would come back on and the set would look normal. Now that it is back in action, the same problem exists but now seems worse in that the convergence is continually (slightly) out of whack and doesn't seem to hold the fine multipoint convergence (this is while it is working, so to speak, correctly). I am by no means getting a 3d like image, but the picture is clearly not as sharp as it should be. I was referred to a friend of a family member whom through the assistance of this forum repaired his power supply (his set suffered from solder issues) on a 610. I pulled the ps board and he looked it over for me only to not find any solder issues. I was going to try replacing the convergence IC's as this seems a likely cause (and a cheap fix) but now I am not sure that this is the cause. The closest service shop is more than 50 miles away and won't make the trip to the house. That and I have no way of getting it to them. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.
LL
LL
post #9766 of 11733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kalani View Post

Yes, but I don't know when I'm going to have time to call and organize something... things are hectic at home and at work right now. I can offer up proposed dates but don't have time at the moment to take on organizing a whole tour.

OK. I'll let you know if someone else wants to don that mantle, or if I get enough time myself to do it. Right now I am working on a whole group of Barco 9" gun front projectors, with a couple of 12" gun Barcos also, lurking in the wings, all CRT triple gun sets...

Plus a stack of the PS boards from the 510/610710 Elites to do as well...

If this doesn't happen till the first of the year I won't be too upset -



b
post #9767 of 11733
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by burgerz View Post

Hi everyone,

I was lucky enough to stumble across this forum. Wow, what a wealth of information.

After spending a few days (during free time) reviewing the vast amount of posts, I am still uncertain as to what may be causing an issue with my PRO 530 hdi. I put the set into storage a few years ago when the problem first popped up. I have since moved and now have the space to get it going again as a second set. The set looks as good as the day it was delivered, and really doesn't have much viewing time on it (4 mild years of viewing) thus my desire to see it shine again. I never had the streaking problem, but went ahead and had the crt drive boards replaced while under warranty. It has also been calibrated a few times.

Long story short, when the issue first started the set would randomly lose picture while the sound output was not affected. The menu, input, volume, etc.. would appear when prompted but all would look terrible (more like the convergence was completely out). The set also exhibits a flashing blue streak across the set while this happens. After a few minutes the picture would come back on and the set would look normal. Now that it is back in action, the same problem exists but now seems worse in that the convergence is continually (slightly) out of whack and doesn't seem to hold the fine multipoint convergence (this is while it is working, so to speak, correctly). I am by no means getting a 3d like image, but the picture is clearly not as sharp as it should be. I was referred to a friend of a family member whom through the assistance of this forum repaired his power supply (his set suffered from solder issues) on a 610. I pulled the ps board and he looked it over for me only to not find any solder issues. I was going to try replacing the convergence IC's as this seems a likely cause (and a cheap fix) but now I am not sure that this is the cause. The closest service shop is more than 50 miles away and won't make the trip to the house. That and I have no way of getting it to them. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Many thanks.

A pic of a white on black grid woulda been better, but your set seems to suffer from vertical sweep repetition, bad geometry and convergence.

This series did not suffer the same fate as the PS boards of the x10 and part of the x20 series. So don't even worry about cold solder joints on the PS board on your set.

I would change out your convergence ICs pronto. They get weak after a certain point even if they have not failed, and when they start to go internally, shorts can happen affecting other parts of your circuitry, possibly your vertical sweep section.

Start there. Be sure and upgrade them if upgrades are available, rather than putting in the same original part numbers that came out.

b
post #9768 of 11733
Someone is selling a Fury, but it comes with a "USB connection which unplugs to a British plug." This must refer to the power supply, and although the seller makes it seem like all you need is a US adapter plug, this would only be true if the Fury power supply is multi-voltage.

Anyone have any insight?
post #9769 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by taichi4 View Post

Someone is selling a Fury, but it comes with a "USB connection which unplugs to a British plug." This must refer to the power supply, and although the seller makes it seem like all you need is a US adapter plug, this would only be true if the Fury power supply is multi-voltage.

Anyone have any insight?

mine can with the european adapter plug. ( they made a mistake and sent the wrong plug) and they let me keep it and they sent me the proper US adapter for my HDfury 3 i think they sell them seperately on the HDfury web site i think they are $50 shipping included they also take paypal if you donot want to use a credit card. here is the link to their site http://www.hdfury.com/buy-hdfury-now/
post #9770 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by sideswiper View Post

mine can with the european adapter plug. ( they made a mistake and sent the wrong plug) and they let me keep it and they sent me the proper US adapter for my HDfury 3 i think they sell them seperately on the HDfury web site i think they are $50 shipping included they also take paypal if you donot want to use a credit card.

Did they send you simply an adapter plug, or a new power supply, with US Voltage capability?

In any event it sounds like I would have to spend another $50.00 to get the thing working.

I was hoping that GlenC, who has a 65813, would have answered my earlier, posted question about DVI on that set vs Component + Fury since has the same set and is a calibrator. Still wondering if I need the thing, or whether it's an unnecessary expense.

Thanks
post #9771 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by taichi4 View Post

Did they send you simply an adapter plug, or a new power supply, with US Voltage capability?

In any event it sounds like I would have to spend another $50.00 to get the thing working.

I was hoping that GlenC, who has a 65813, would have answered my earlier, posted question about DVI on that set vs Component + Fury since has the same set and is a calibrator. Still wondering if I need the thing, or whether it's an unnecessary expense.

Thanks

IT came with both the USB cable and the US power supply.
post #9772 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

OK. I'll let you know if someone else wants to don that mantle, or if I get enough time myself to do it. Right now I am working on a whole group of Barco 9" gun front projectors, with a couple of 12" gun Barcos also, lurking in the wings, all CRT triple gun sets...

Plus a stack of the PS boards from the 510/610710 Elites to do as well...

If this doesn't happen till the first of the year I won't be too upset -



b

That sounds fantastic. Those Barco front projectors are definetly the way to go. Would you say they look a lot nicer than their 7" ElectroStatic focusing rear projection counterparts?

- 2 Bunny
post #9773 of 11733
Thread Starter 
Have not done any A/Bing, but 9" guns on the same brand as 7" guns are simply going to look a lot better than 7" guns on the same brand, and allow for a bigger picture to watch.

b
post #9774 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by sideswiper View Post

IT came with both the USB cable and the US power supply.

So you were sent the right power supply, but the wrong adapter/plug, and they eventually sent you the right US plug for the power supply? But if I am unentitled for the swap, it would cost me $50.00 for the adapter plug if I follow you correctly.
post #9775 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by taichi4 View Post

So you were sent the right power supply, but the wrong adapter/plug, and they eventually sent you the right US plug for the power supply? But if I am unentitled for the swap, it would cost me $50.00 for the adapter plug if I follow you correctly.

No they sent me the wrong power supply. The adapter plug (USB cable) is the same for both US and european it plugs into the power supply. They will send you both the US power supply and the USB cable if you order one
post #9776 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by sideswiper View Post

No they sent me the wrong power supply. The adapter plug (USB cable) is the same for both US and european it plugs into the power supply. They will send you both the US power supply and the USB cable if you order one

Got it. Thanks for your clarification.

So it sounds like the seller is really saying (and downplaying) that he has a British power supply, and that $50.00 must be added to his already non-bargain price.
post #9777 of 11733
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Bob View Post

Have not done any A/Bing, but 9" guns on the same brand as 7" guns are simply going to look a lot better than 7" guns on the same brand, and allow for a bigger picture to watch.

b

Right. That and that they're usually a lot higher quality (hence the pricetag), right?

- 2B
post #9778 of 11733
Thread Starter 
Not authoritative on that. The 7" gun Sony G70 has an awesome pic, and I think it's head and shoulders better than my 9" gun Mit display's, tho I have not A/B'd them either. I would not be surprised if the G70 and G90 use the same circuitry, they both produce an awesome pic.

But in answer, yes I think the circuitry on the Sony's is just head and shoulders better than anything you'll find in a Mit, and yes, hence the pricetag -

b
post #9779 of 11733
G70 is 8 inch, but it's EM focus. Do they make any EM rptv's?
post #9780 of 11733
Thread Starter 
Thanks for enlightening me there, I thought the 70 in the model number was also the inch measure.

Have never seen any of the standard CRT RPTVs specified with Electromagnetic Focus. All I have seen have the regular Electrostatic Focus, on the Focus Block.

The only RPTV I have seen that might have had that has been that luscious one Runco put out, that housed one of their actual front projectors, firing in a rear configuration onto a 65" screen, just like our RPTVs do.

b
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