AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Atlantic Technology owner's thread.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Atlantic Technology owner's thread. - Page 20

post #571 of 802
12/27/10 at 1:53pm
I took the plunge and picked up the AT 8200e LRCs to replace my 7.1 FS-3200 system. Now I'm using my two extra FS-3200s as wides (so I have FS-3200s as rear, surround, and wides) at 9.1 and I'm looking to add some heights to make the final move to 11.1 (achieved with my new Denon 4311). To do that, I'm thinking about using a pair of 1400SRZ-BLKs along with an Emotiva XPA-3 to drive my LRC. BTW, my .1 is an eagerly anticipated SVS PB-13 Ultra. Any comments on the heights? Are any of you using AT heights?

As an aside, I now have an extra FS-3200c hanging around. Any ideas of what I might do with that thing other than send it to Craigslist? I've thought about hooking it up to a Sonos 120 for my kitchen TV (which currently uses an the internal speaker), but I'm not sure how that's going to sound as a full range speaker (and I don't really want to buy / audition the Sonos unless it's going to sound much, much nicer than the already ok TV speakers), Thoughts?
Reply
Reply

AVS Top Picks

post #572 of 802
12/28/10 at 9:27am
The H-Pas speakers look very interesting

http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/con...pas-speakers-0

Frequency response (at 2 meters)
34 Hz to 17 kHz ±2.6 dB

I measured the AT-1 standing on the ground, because it will always be used that way. Quasi-anechoic measurements were averaged across a ±30° listening window, with the various curves weighted to take into account the way speakers perform in a typical listening room. The H-PAS seemed to introduce a phase shift that threw off the bass-summing calculations in my LinearX LMS measurement system, so I instead performed a ground-plane bass measurement (with the speaker and microphone on the ground), then spliced this result to the averaged quasi-anechoic response.

The AT-1 exhibits essentially textbook frequency response, with basically flat response on-axis and only a mild treble decrease off-axis, plus slight dips at 1.8 and 3.6 kHz when the mike is moved to 45° off-axis. Cancelation and reinforcement due to floor bounce cause a dip at 440 Hz and a peak at 640 Hz, but they're both mild. The high treble is down quite a bit at 20 kHz, but few people will be able to hear that flaw. The grille has only a slight effect, causing a couple of -2-dB dips and peaks in very narrow bands above 4 kHz. The treble switch boosts the high end (above 2 kHz) by +1 dB or cuts it by -2 dB. The ground-plane measurement showed a -3-dB bass response of 30 Hz.
Reply
Reply
post #573 of 802
12/29/10 at 2:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Greer View Post

I took the plunge and picked up the AT 8200e LRCs to replace my 7.1 FS-3200 system.

How much power are you using to drive your 8200s?
Reply
Reply
post #574 of 802
12/29/10 at 8:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimP View Post

How much power are you using to drive your 8200s?

I only use the amps in the Denon 4311 which are rated at 140w. I don't know what they are in reality but I've had the system up to -10db without strain. To be honest, I haven't gone any louder than that because a) it's crazy loud at that volume and b) this is a new house for me and I don't want to piss off the neighbors too much just yet. I don't know how the 4311 amps/speakers would sound at reference volume but I can check (one day).

Right now I'm at 9.1 but if/when I go to 11.1, I'm going to need another amp because the 4311s internal amps only drive 9 channels. When that happens, I'm probably going to get a 3-channel amp for LRC and let the Denon drive all of the surrounds.
Reply
Reply
post #575 of 802
1/28/11 at 11:54am
I just installed a new receiver (Onkyo NR3008) that I'm using a pre/pro into separate Marantz 550 monoblocks. I have a stock 350 system bought years ago that I'm now trying to get dialed in.

With the NR3008 I now have access to Audyssey, which I have enabled and has dramatically improved the sound but the center channel is exhibiting a hiss when Audyssey is enabled. It has been suggested that this might be a blown tweeter, any thoughts?

Also, when I connect the subs using the THX input I get pops/thumps every time the pre/pro changes input sources (this was also the case with my old pre/pro). Should I be using THX or variable input? And if THX, why the pops/thumps?

And lastly, I saw some back and forth about the impedance on these speakers but didn't really see a definitive response. My speakers are labeled 8 ohms but of course the documentation states 4 ohms. Has this been clarified to anyone's satisfaction?

Thanks,
Don
Reply
Reply
post #576 of 802
1/28/11 at 12:20pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ontherivet View Post

I just installed a new receiver (Onkyo NR3008) that I'm using a pre/pro into separate Marantz 550 monoblocks. I have a stock 350 system bought years ago that I'm now trying to get dialed in.

With the NR3008 I now have access to Audyssey, which I have enabled and has dramatically improved the sound but the center channel is exhibiting a hiss when Audyssey is enabled. It has been suggested that this might be a blown tweeter, any thoughts?

Turn the center channel off in the receiver. This will re-direct the center channel signal to the L/R's. If the hiss now comes out of the L/R's, the problem resides in the receiver. If the hiss disappears, the speaker is the problem. Temporarily switch the center speaker for the left or right speaker and see if the hiss follows the speaker.

Quote:


Also, when I connect the subs using the THX input I get pops/thumps every time the pre/pro changes input sources (this was also the case with my old pre/pro). Should I be using THX or variable input? And if THX, why the pops/thumps?

If you're using the Bass Management in the receiver, (which you are if you're using Audyssey), use the variable input. The first step in Audyssey XT32 is to set the levels of the sub(s). Use the variable level control to set the sub level to ~75 dB.

Have you read the Audyssey Guide in the Audyssey thread?
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...5#post14456895

Craig
Reply
Reply
post #577 of 802
1/28/11 at 5:44pm
Thanks Craig, I have read the Audyssey guide and have run through a complete calibration 3 times. I think the issue is Dynamic EQ, turning it off eliminates the hiss. I assume Dynamic EQ is basically some sort of ACG and when there is silence it is boosting the gain accordingly.

And as far as the sub goes, I've been using the variable input and happy with it, was just wondering if there was something to the THX input I was missing...I have a 2 year old so my volume setting on the front of the sub is very much a temporary condition. Makes for some exciting times when she's cranked it to 11.

By the way, there is a LPF option for LFE in the speaker config on the Onkyo...I assume it should remain at 80hz (values range from 80 to 120).

- Don
Reply
Reply
post #578 of 802
1/31/11 at 12:05pm
I have an older System 250.1 and want to turn my 251.1 LR sideways in my
HT cabinet/bookshelf. Will this create sound dispersion problems? I thought
this would be an upgrade from the two NHT SuperZeros I currently have there.
Terry
Reply
Reply
post #579 of 802
1/31/11 at 8:03pm
Hey all,

There was a guy interested in buying my 450 system fronts awhile back. He was down in socal. If you read this and are still interested pm me!
Reply
Reply
post #580 of 802
2/1/11 at 10:26am
I currently have FS3200s for my wides and rears. However, I feel that they are the weak link in my speaker chain (or I might just be a HTaholoic). My 8200SR speakers sound so much more detailed and crisp than the 3200s they replaced at my surrounds that I'm seriously considering the 6200LRs as replacements for wides and rears. My local shop doesn't have any 6200s I can borrow to audition to see if they would make any difference. Am I crazy? It seems like total overkill. Both my sound shop guy and AT are telling me that I'm fine with the 3200s. But I don't want to believe them for some reason. Can anyone talk me off this ledge?

Are any of you guys using 6200s in those positions?
Reply
Reply
post #581 of 802
2/1/11 at 12:49pm
The wides are supposed to mimic the sound of reflections off the walls of concert hall venues at about 60 degrees. IIRC, Chris K. said they measured a bunch of concert halls that are known to have excellent acoustics, and they found that they all had reflections at 60 degrees. They wrote the algorithm to mimic that.

I'm not sure the wides are supposed to sound as "detailed and crisp" as the fronts or the side surrounds. If they were as detailed and crisp as the fronts and sides they might sound like sound sources and draw attention to themselves. Of course, I don't have wides or heights, so I'm just speculating.

What is it that you think you're missing from the wides now? There has been a lot of discussion of the heights and wides in the Audyssey thread, (which I know you've participated in.) You might ask over there what the wides are supposed to sound like, and if the should be "detailed and crisp."

Craig
Reply
Reply
post #582 of 802
2/1/11 at 1:18pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post

What is it that you think you're missing from the wides now?

I don't know because I've never heard it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post

There has been a lot of discussion of the heights and wides in the Audyssey thread, (which I know you've participated in.) You might ask over there what the wides are supposed to sound like, and if the should be "detailed and crisp."

I kind of tried that already. I wrote:

Quote:
Would better, larger timbre-matched speakers (as in the same speakers as the mains) be preferred over smaller timbre-matched speakers for wides (good quality direct radiating)? Or, since wides don't carrying the same amount of information as mains, is it true that high quality wides wouldn't really add anything significant to a HT experience beyond what can already be offered by good quality, smaller speakers from the same family (assuming MultEQ XT32, 11.2, and no space/budget limitations)?

Audyssey Chris replied:

Quote:
The recommendation is to use speakers that are from the same family as the fronts because that helps with timbre matching and results in a smoother soundstage. Same family is a little vague, I know. Some people can afford the money and space it takes to place Wides that are identical to the Fronts. Others use smaller bookshelves from the same manufacturer that often use the same tweeters. The size of the speaker has little to do with it. As with any speaker in the system, bass management will handle the content below the crossover frequency and send it to the sub.

From Chris' statement, I want to read into it that if I buy more expensive wides then I'll get better sound. But, based on one's perspective, you could also read into it another way and that he's saying it doesn't matter.

The one thing I'm certain about is that my 8200SRs sound better than my FS3200s in the surround position. So I'm wondering if the same would be true for higher-end speakers in the wides. Of course since so few people have much experience with wides, I can't seem to find a good answer short of spending a few thousand dollars to find out.
Reply
Reply
post #583 of 802
2/1/11 at 3:55pm
Can you try placing one of the 8200e' LR's in a wide position? It may not be a perfect rendition of a soundstage, but it might help give you an idea of what a better speaker would sound like in a wide position.

Or, maybe a better option might be to move your 8200e SR's into the wide positions temporarily. That might give you a better idea of what the front soundstage would sound like.

Just a thought...

Craig
Reply
Reply
post #584 of 802
2/1/11 at 5:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post

Just a thought...

I had considered doing that very thing, but the wides are part of a complete experience and moving an 8200 (which is better than a 6200 anyway) to the wide and leaving a hole on the left (or right) wouldn't give me a complete picture. And if I moved them to the wides I'd have a huge hole in the center. I think that the only way to truly know is to switch out the 3200s with something else (one at a time) and listen to it as a complete system.

But then we're back to my original problem.
Reply
Reply
post #585 of 802
2/3/11 at 1:39pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john
I had this same problem with my previous setup. My CC was below my screen. I kept modifying my stand to try to get hte speaker as close to the bottom of the screen as possible. In it's final iteration, it was right at the bottom of the image... and I could still "tell" that it was below the screen. Dialogue didn't "lock up" with the image.

I finally solved the problem by getting an acoustically transparent screen, so I could place the speakers behind it:

This allowed me to use an "identical" CC instead of a horizontal CC:

This is the *best* front soundstage I've ever had in my HT.



Craig
Craig
I am building my theater. Completion still several months away. Purchased B stock in wall subs 8e with SA700 amp. (Will wait several months before installing, but bought these because k it a good price for new B-stock)
Am thinking of three 8200s for fronts and the IWTS 30 SR surrounds
I have a medium sized room (4,100 cu. Ft. - please see my build thread. My interest in ATs grew after Dennis Erskine mentioned them as one of the few that have good off-axis response.
My question are:
Is the surround selection good for the 8200s?
What should be my criteria for selecting preamplifier/amp?
Is 12 ga. Wire good enough? (Too late now since the fronts and surrounds are already wired)
Thanks
Reply
Reply
post #586 of 802
2/3/11 at 2:09pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

Is the surround selection good for the 8200s?

You can also use the 8200C for the center instead of the LR if you don't have a preference. They are acoustically the same. When I posted my graphs in the Denon 4311 thread, Batpig commented that my LRC channels must be the same after seeing the corrections on the Audyssey graph. But they weren't; they were 8200LR + 8200C.
Reply
Reply
post #587 of 802
2/3/11 at 2:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Greer View Post


You can also use the 8200C for the center instead of the LR if you don't have a preference. They are acoustically the same. When I posted my graphs in the Denon 4311 thread, Batpig commented that my LRC channels must be the same after seeing the corrections on the Audyssey graph. But they weren't; they were 8200LR + 8200C.

I am planning an AT screen and have read that identical fronts is best
Reply
Reply
post #588 of 802
2/3/11 at 2:43pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

Craig
I am building my theater. Completion still several months away. Purchased B stock in wall subs 8e with SA700 amp. (Will wait several months before installing, but bought these because k it a good price for new B-stock)
Am thinking of three 8200s for fronts and the IWTS 30 SR surrounds
I have a medium sized room (4,100 cu. Ft. - please see my build thread. My interest in ATs grew after Dennis Erskine mentioned them as one of the few that have good off-axis response.
My question are:
Is the surround selection good for the 8200s?
What should be my criteria for selecting preamplifier/amp?
Is 12 ga. Wire good enough? (Too late now since the fronts and surrounds are already wired)
Thanks

I have installed a set of IWTS-30 SR along with the IWTS-30 LCR's in a friend's theater. Although the SR's don't have integral enclosures, (and are not designed for use with any enclosure), I thought they sounded great. My friend LOVES them! My only concern would be sound bleed-through to the adjacent space. What's behind the walls they would be installed in?

Your criteria for selecting a preamp, (IMO), should be an Audyssey XT32 enabled pre-amp with THX Ultra2 certification. At this point, AFAIK, that limits you to the Intgera DHC-80.2 or it's Onkyo twin, the SC5508. The other option is the Denon 4311, but that's a receiver. However, it can be used in "pre/pro" mode, with an external amp. A good "economy" choice might be the 4311 with power amps for the front 3 channels and the rest driven from the internal amps. (BTW, all 3 of the above choices are THX Ultra2 certified, so they're designed to work with your 8200e's and in-walls.)

For selecting power amps, it's simple: you want as much power as you can afford. The 8200e's will soak up as much power as you can throw at them. I'm driving mine with 328 wpc (into 8 ohms and they're nominal 6 ohms speakers.) I use an Earthquake Cinenova Grande for my amps. I have also driven them with Emotiva power, (200 wpc), and they sounded great with that. However, they do sound great...ER with the Cinenova.

As long as your wire runs are less than 5 miles long, 12 ga. wire is fine.

Craig
Reply
Reply
post #589 of 802
2/3/11 at 2:51pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Greer View Post

You can also use the 8200C for the center instead of the LR if you don't have a preference. They are acoustically the same. When I posted my graphs in the Denon 4311 thread, Batpig commented that my LRC channels must be the same after seeing the corrections on the Audyssey graph. But they weren't; they were 8200LR + 8200C.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

I am planning an AT screen and have read that identical fronts is best

As long as your using an AT screen, you aren't constrained to a "horizontal" CC. Therefore, even though the 8200e C sounds very, very similar to the LR's, it's still a horizontal CC with the potential for off-axis lobing and comb filtering. I would stick with your plan of 3 LR's. You *know* you can't do better than that. Interestingly, a 3rd LR is about $100 cheaper than the CC.

Craig
Reply
Reply
post #590 of 802
2/3/11 at 3:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post

I have installed a set of IWTS-30 SR along with the IWTS-30 LCR's in a friend's theater. Although the SR's don't have integral enclosures, (and are not designed for use with any enclosure), I thought they sounded great. My friend LOVES them! My only concern would be sound bleed-through to the adjacent space. What's behind the walls they would be installed in?

Your criteria for selecting a preamp, (IMO), should be an Audyssey XT32 enabled pre-amp with THX Ultra2 certification. At this point, AFAIK, that limits you to the Intgera DHC-80.2 or it's Onkyo twin, the SC5508. The other option is the Denon 4311, but that's a receiver. However, it can be used in "pre/pro" mode, with an external amp. A good "economy" choice might be the 4311 with power amps for the front 3 channels and the rest driven from the internal amps. (BTW, all 3 of the above choices are THX Ultra2 certified, so they're designed to work with your 8200e's and in-walls.)

For selecting power amps, it's simple: you want as much power as you can afford. The 8200e's will soak up as much power as you can throw at them. I'm driving mine with 328 wpc (into 8 ohms and they're nominal 6 ohms speakers.) I use an Earthquake Cinenova Grande for my amps. I have also driven them with Emotiva power, (200 wpc), and they sounded great with that. However, they do sound great...ER with the Cinenova.

As long as your wire runs are less than 5 miles long, 12 ga. wire is fine.

Craig

Craig:
Thanks! I have double drywall (5/8") throughout with green glue in between, hat channels, Whisper clips, pink fiberglass insulation inside the wall cavities, double stud walls that are facing interior spaces in basement, and single stud wall against the foundation wall. I'll build false walls for the sub+surround. For the sub that I bought that will be 40' away from SA700, should I use 10 ga. wire?
Reply
Reply
post #591 of 802
2/4/11 at 7:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

Craig:
Thanks! I have double drywall (5/8") throughout with green glue in between, hat channels, Whisper clips, pink fiberglass insulation inside the wall cavities, double stud walls that are facing interior spaces in basement, and single stud wall against the foundation wall. I'll build false walls for the sub+surround. For the sub that I bought that will be 40' away from SA700, should I use 10 ga. wire?

Seems you've done a great job of sound isolation. I haven't read your whole construction thread. Have you made any plans for acoustic treatment? Once you isolate your room, more of the sound *stays* in your room and gets added back to the original sound. IOW, the room becomes an even bigger factor in a well *isolated* room. You'll want to plan some extensive bass traps, acoustic absorption and diffusion in to your walls, floor and ceiling.

For wire lengths, check out the table in this link:
http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm
AT doesn't list the impedance of the drivers on the website, but the amp is spec'd for a 4-ohm load. Either call AT and find out, or just use 10 ga. to be on the safe side.

BTW, your speakers will be Ultra2 capable, but a single of that in-wall sub won't keep up. Even though it's Ultra2 certified, I'm pretty sure you need at least 2 to meet the Ultra2 spec. A single would be just two 8" drivers attempting to pressurize some 4,400+ cubic feet. AT spec's them at 102 dB in 3,000 cubic feet. (I find it hard to believe they'll do 102 dB at 20 Hz in that space, but that's the spec.) You need at least 2, (4, 8" drivers), to hit 105 dB in 3,000 cubic feet. You have almost 50% more volume to pressurize, and you're still 10 dB off the LFE channel spec of 115 dB. A single will struggle mightily just to hit 100 dB in your space. You'll want more than one or your speakers will be limited by the sub. Frankly, I would suggest at least 4 of those subs to get you close to the Ultra2 spec in your space. Multiples will also provide better in-room frequency response. Just an observation.

Craig
Reply
Reply
post #592 of 802
2/4/11 at 7:46am
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post

Seems you've done a great job of sound isolation. I haven't read your whole construction thread. Have you made any plans for acoustic treatment? Once you isolate your room, more of the sound *stays* in your room and gets added back to the original sound. IOW, the room becomes an even bigger factor in a well *isolated* room. You'll want to plan some extensive bass traps, acoustic absorption and diffusion in to your walls, floor and ceiling.

For wire lengths, check out the table in this link:
http://www.roger-russell.com/wire/wire.htm
AT doesn't list the impedance of the drivers on the website, but the amp is spec'd for a 4-ohm load. Either call AT and find out, or just use 10 ga. to be on the safe side.

BTW, your speakers will be Ultra2 capable, but a single of that in-wall sub won't keep up. Even though it's Ultra2 certified, I'm pretty sure you need at least 2 to meet the Ultra2 spec. A single would be just two 8" drivers attempting to pressurize some 4,400+ cubic feet. AT spec's them at 102 dB in 3,000 cubic feet. (I find it hard to believe they'll do 102 dB at 20 Hz in that space, but that's the spec.) You need at least 2, (4, 8" drivers), to hit 105 dB in 3,000 cubic feet. You have almost 50% more volume to pressurize, and you're still 10 dB off the LFE channel spec of 115 dB. A single will struggle mightily just to hit 100 dB in your space. You'll want more than one or your speakers will be limited by the sub. Frankly, I would suggest at least 4 of those subs to get you close to the Ultra2 spec in your space. Multiples will also provide better in-room frequency response. Just an observation.

Craig

Craig:

I know that I will need acoustic treatment and am educating myself on the subject. I plan on 2" rigid fiberglass on the entire front wall behind my acoustically transparent screen (thinking Seymour XD Center Stage material), several bass traps in the corners, bass trap in the seat riser, sand in the proscenium, and 1" rigid fiberglass at first reflection points. Not sure if I want to make measurements first before applying treatment or vice versa. I think that it might be best to start with some no-brainers like the ones above

Thanks for your link. I did not buy the marketing BS of exotic cable manufacturers. Instead went with 12 ga. copper from Blue Jean Cable throughout. I even used RG6U coax for subwoofer drops, but now having purchased the Atlantic Technology THX Dual InWall Sub System - The SA700, IWTS8eSUB & InBox8Sub, these might not be used except for a B&W ASW800 powered sub that I already own. I also picked up an inexpensive $150 Pinnacle Speakers SUB-SONIX 10-200 10-Inch 200 Watt Front Firing Powered Subwoofer from Amazon.com on a lightning deal.

BTW, the AT subs that I bought come as a pair each rated at 350W with a 700W power amp. I plan to place these on the sides of the seating. I think that all told this is significant bass.


I'll mount the IWTS-30 SR in-wall surrounds at the same locations, but a few feet higher than ear level. Will also identical add rear surrounds at the same height.
Reply
Reply
post #593 of 802
2/5/11 at 8:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post

Will you have sub(s) in your system? If you don't have subs, and you need to run the speakers "Full Range", I strongly suggest you look at speakers with integral enclosures, which the AT speakers do *not* have. Sending bass to speakers that use the wall as the enclosure can cause wall resonance and bleed through of bass leading to cancellation issues. Bass Management and re-routing of bass from the surrounds to the subs can reduce some of the issues with backless speakers.

Even if you do have subwoofer(s), there are advantages to fully enclosed in-wall speakers that have to do with unwanted "bleed through" of sound to adjacent spaces. Read this article for more info:
http://www.cepro.com/article/how_to_...peaker_systems

The Triad and Def Tech speakers you are considering have integral enclosures. If either of the above "issues" are important to you, I suggest you give them preference.

Craig

Craig:
Basically you are recommending Triad surrounds over AT ones. That said, for timbre matching, the fronts should also be Triads. That changes things for my HT. The Triad Platinum fronts are several times more expensive than the AT 8200s. Am I wrong in reading your response?
I was planning on an all AT system (8200s, in-wall surrounds, etc.). I already bought the AT in-wall subsystem (350Wx2).
What are the advantages/disadvantages of an open enclosure AT in-wall system since my room is soundproofed? Put another way, if enclosures are generally beneficial, why does AT make them without them?
Thanks
Reply
Reply
post #594 of 802
2/5/11 at 7:21pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post

I use an Earthquake Cinenova Grande for my amps. I have also driven them with Emotiva power, (200 wpc), and they sounded great with that. However, they do sound great...ER with the Cinenova.

Craig

Which particular Emotiva puts out 200Wx7?
Thanks
Reply
Reply
post #595 of 802
2/5/11 at 8:00pm
My Cinenova was down for a week. While it was down, I drove the L/R speakers with an Emotiva RPA-1, (now discontinued.) I listened in 2.1-channel with just the L/R's and the subs.

Craig
Reply
Reply
post #596 of 802
2/5/11 at 8:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post

My Cinenova was down for a week. While it was down, I drove the L/R speakers with an Emotiva RPA-1, (now discontinued.) I listened in 2.1-channel with just the L/R's and the subs.

Craig

Sorry to hear that. Any thoughts on the questions in the previous posts? Thanks
Reply
Reply
post #597 of 802
2/6/11 at 1:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

Craig:
Basically you are recommending Triad surrounds over AT ones. That said, for timbre matching, the fronts should also be Triads. That changes things for my HT. The Triad Platinum fronts are several times more expensive than the AT 8200s. Am I wrong in reading your response?
I was planning on an all AT system (8200s, in-wall surrounds, etc.). I already bought the AT in-wall subsystem (350Wx2).
What are the advantages/disadvantages of an open enclosure AT in-wall system since my room is soundproofed? Put another way, if enclosures are generally beneficial, why does AT make them without them?
Thanks

If you are not concerned with bleed through to adjacent spaces, (and with your sound isolation efforts, that's probably appropriate), then your only concern is bleed through of the back wave back into the room through the drywall. That will be reduced *significantly* with your dual layer, 5/8" drywalled walls. I expect you'll be fine with the AT surrounds in your system. I have installed a set of these for a friend and they work just fine. They should work even better with your wall system. However, before you commit to them, I would contact AT and ensure their mounting bracket will work with a wall as thick as yours.

http://www.atlantictechnology.com/de...alse&NodeId=83

If you don't get a good answer at the generic CS contact, let me know (PM). I have a good friend who is their Director of Marketing and Product Development. He can definitely help you out.

Craig
Reply
Reply
post #598 of 802
2/6/11 at 7:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post
If you are not concerned with bleed through to adjacent spaces, (and with your sound isolation efforts, that's probably appropriate), then your only concern is bleed through of the back wave back into the room through the drywall. That will be reduced *significantly* with your dual layer, 5/8" drywalled walls.

Craig
Craig, thanks. I am not concerned about bleed through to adjacent spaces, but rather with the performance of these speakers that are designed to be installed in a drywall gap with drywall on the back. Instead, I will be fastening them to an open frame. I have no intention of damaging the soundproofing that I have achieved by cutting cavities in my double drywall. Rather, I intend to install the side surrounds in a speaker mounting frame that I will build fully inside my soundproofed room. The frame will be covered with acoustically transparent fabric and not drywall. The speakers will be about 2 feet away from the wall behind them. The rear surrounds will be installed on the rear wall. You can see the attached figure.

I intend to install the in-wall subs that come with an 81" tall enclosure on the sides in the same locations. Perhaps, if necessary, the sub enclosure will provide the necessary backing that the surrounds are expecting. I am not exactly clear on whether one can install these with no enclosure at all (not even the drywall cavity gap).

Update, 2/7/11
I spoke to Steve Feinstein of Atlantic Technology, and he said two things: (a) if enclosures are really critical for surrounds, then I could get the 8200eSRs that have them, and (b) enclosures are not really needed on surrounds if they handle mid- to -high frequencies. In fact, according to Steve, enclosures are need only for the low frequency bass effect and not necessarily for the mid- to high-.

 

Punch Design.pdf 10.7978515625k . file
Reply
Reply
post #599 of 802
2/7/11 at 6:15pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYHomeTheater View Post

Craig, thanks. I am not concerned about bleed through to adjacent spaces, but rather with the performance of these speakers that are designed to be installed in a drywall gap with drywall on the back. Instead, I will be fastening them to an open frame. I have no intention of damaging the soundproofing that I have achieved by cutting cavities in my double drywall. Rather, I intend to install the side surrounds in a speaker mounting frame that I will build fully inside my soundproofed room. The frame will be covered with acoustically transparent fabric and not drywall. The speakers will be about 2 feet away from the wall behind them. The rear surrounds will be installed on the rear wall. You can see the attached figure.

I intend to install the in-wall subs that come with an 81" tall enclosure on the sides in the same locations. Perhaps, if necessary, the sub enclosure will provide the necessary backing that the surrounds are expecting. I am not exactly clear on whether one can install these with no enclosure at all (not even the drywall cavity gap).

Update, 2/7/11
I spoke to Steve Feinstein of Atlantic Technology, and he said two things: (a) if enclosures are really critical for surrounds, then I could get the 8200eSRs that have them, and (b) enclosures are not really needed on surrounds if they handle mid- to -high frequencies. In fact, according to Steve, enclosures are need only for the low frequency bass effect and not necessarily for the mid- to high-.

Steve is the contact I was referring to. If you spoke to him, you got great advice. I'll second his recommendation of the 8200e SR's. I have them and they are an excellent timbre match to the 8200e LR's and they have no issues with in-wall enclosures.

Craig
Reply
Reply
post #600 of 802
2/7/11 at 6:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by craig john View Post

Steve is the contact I was referring to. If you spoke to him, you got great advice. I'll second his recommendation of the 8200e SR's. I have them and they are an excellent timbre match to the 8200e LR's and they have no issues with in-wall enclosures.

Craig

I bought a pair of 8200SRs today (B-stock, non 'e' version) for $500 (list $1700). Got them cheap because they are discontinued and in white. I'll spray paint them black. Now looking for a 2nd pair to complete my surround system. Eventually looking for the LCRs too. Thanks.

How do the Atlantic Technology 8200e front speakers compare with the Triad Gold floor standing in wall speakers? Has anyone done a comparison?
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Speakers

AVS Top Picks

AVS › AVS Forum › Audio › Speakers › Atlantic Technology owner's thread.