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Ruby / Qualia lamp, pics added. - Page 3

post #61 of 385
Way to go KraigK! Nice work!!!
post #62 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post

Thanks Kraig you are the man. Just what we wanted to hear.
Everyone who is interested you can PM Kraig or myself for contact information

Kraig heres the info on resetting the lamp timer:


kraigk;
Excellent job!! Much appreciated.
Any pointers how this lamp performs/behaves in regards to the original lamp, brightness, color uniformity, etc.?

I am interested in getting one. Alan, how about a power-buy?

TIA!
____
Axel
post #63 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by kraigk View Post

Guys,

I'm your guinea pig reporting in with new lamp installed and working. I have a few pics but am too lazy to post them and they aren't anything you haven't seen.

How much? TBD, there is a worthwile savings.
Who is selling? Alan will be putting those interested in touch with the supplier.

What I can tell you is I ordered it last Friday and had it yesterday afternoon as promised. It took me one hour to replace it. Two things of note - You will need a phillips screwdriver with at least a 6" extension. I couldn't find mine and had to go buy one. The second thing is you will need some of the fancy grease to put on the new one. I was able to rub enough off the old with my finger but it would be best to have a small tube of new grease. The supplier might be able to sell this as well, no sure though.

I recommend taking pictures of the lamp/housing setup from all sides so you know how it goes back together, lots of screw. There are 6 screws on the cover of the housing to get the sinks and lamp assembly out.

In all very straight forward and worthwile IMO. One question - I don't see how to reset the lamp timer? I have gone into the service menu and it isn't obvious. Any ideas.


This is greatly appreciated, thanks for your research.
I bet that grease is for better heat transfer to the sink and the supplier should have some.
Is that larger white ring a Sony add on or also part of the lamp you received?
post #64 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by kraigk View Post

....- You will need a phillips screwdriver with at least a 6" extension. I couldn't find mine and had to go buy one. ....

kraigk;
Just to make sure I have understood you correctly, this 6" extension is only needed to reach the Phillips screw that holds the lamp assembly in the PJ, correct?
____
Axel
post #65 of 385
Axel - Exactly. A standard philips has a shaft of about 4-5 inches and comes up short. Home Depot had the 8" length for $6.99. That is the only way to loosen those four screws to drop the lamp.

CharlesJ - The lamp is idententical, no jerry rigging. It is a bit of a goardian knot getting down to just the lamp but once you do they are tit for tat one and the same with the ring/flange on it.


Axel - As for the color uniformity I can't say yet as I haven't done any calibration or tuning. I will say though that picture has that pop you will recall from when you first got your Ruby. The 10 minutes I watched it looked spot on with the colors but that is subjective. Fun to have a new lamp. I'll cherish these first two hundred hours .

Alan - Thanks for doing this! Much appreciated. And thanks for the lamp reset.
post #66 of 385
I will try this cool replacement stunt with my spare lamp. Then when football season hits I will put it in. Awesome job again guys! At this savings I will replace my lamp once a year for sure now!
post #67 of 385
Outstanding work as always. Man I love this site.

Alan, sent a PM.
post #68 of 385
kraigk,
Thanks for taking on this project and making sure that this could be done. A+ job!
BOBCAT
post #69 of 385
kraigk, great job. You the man!
post #70 of 385
This is really a good alternative to paying 750+ per lamp replacement!
post #71 of 385
Don't thank me. Alan did all the leg work and it was really just self serving on my part. I had no doubt it would work as reported.

I am not able to reset my lamp timer doing this: reset, left arrow, right arrow, enter. All I see on screen is "not applicable". Enlighten me someone.

One other thing on the lamp replacement.. in your Ruby manual one of the first steps after getting the cover off is releasing the Xenon gas by turning a screw clockwise. Unless you are going to throw away your old lamp don't do this. All this screw does is cut a hole into the prong sticking off the back of your lamp and release the gas basically killing the lamp. I for one would prefer to keep a working lamp around just in case..
post #72 of 385
GOOD POINT! Do not let the gas out!
post #73 of 385
Kraig it was team effort

I just dug out the manual, one important part of the process is missing in the notes for the lamp reset, the projector must be in standby mode. Im sorry

post #74 of 385
In addition to above,

apparently the PJ expects you to be coming directly from installing the lamp: I had to re-trip the cover interlock (I re-loosened the lamp cover as well-don't know if it has a interlock) after mis-keying on my Pronto remote.
post #75 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlB View Post

In addition to above,

apparently the PJ expects you to be coming directly from installing the lamp: I had to re-trip the cover interlock (I re-loosened the lamp cover as well-don't know if it has a interlock) after mis-keying on my Pronto remote.

Good tip!!
post #76 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post

Kraig it was team effort

I just dug out the manual, one important part of the process is missing in the notes for the lamp reset, the projector must be in standby mode. Im sorry


I just replaced my bulb and had a heck of a time resetting the timer. I thought I had done everything right but no joy. Finally, I turned on the projector and nothing else....just had the blue screen and then did the reset left arrow right arrow enter....and it worked.

Alan, thank you for your efforts in supporting this initiative. Kraig, as has been said already, you are the man!!!!!! This forum continues to offer value waaaay beyond expectations. This site should be designated a world heritage site.

Kraig, as noted above I have just replaced my bulb so I think I will buy a couple of spares to have on hand. I am NOT known for my adeptness in getting complex mechanical things to work well. Now that I have the housing for the old bulb out of the projector how difficult is it to figure out how to open it up? I know its a subjective answer but for some of us this stuff is not intuitive..........and there are no instructions. Also the grease that you referred to....if the supplier of the bulb doesn't have it, does it seem like it would be a common substance that would be carried by, say, a big box Home Depot ?????

Finally if my narrative is not too annoying, is there any hint of going up in power to say a six hundred watt bulb???? or is that too risky?

Peter
post #77 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by nine ball View Post

... Also the grease that you referred to....if the supplier of the bulb doesn't have it, does it seem like it would be a common substance that would be carried by, say, a big box Home Depot ?????

Peter

I believe what you are looking for is thermal compound "grease" that transfers heat. It is used for CPU to heat sinks, so this is the same application.

You are not going to find in a hardware store. Perhaps in Radio Shack or Micro Center. Otherwise, get it on the web.

Here is a link to a larger sized product that is well known:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835100008

Enjoy!
post #78 of 385
Thanks for the link!
post #79 of 385
Talking to the supplier he made of point of saying the grease was not needed. When talking in person I would ask for his reasoning.
I would not recommend a higher wattage bulb. I heard they could have got more brightness out of this bulb but it is throttled back due to heat restrictions which could damage the panels. It would have been nice to be able to get Qualia brightness out of this thing
post #80 of 385
So we don't need the grease... One less thing.
post #81 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post

Talking to the supplier he made of point of saying the grease was not needed. When talking in person I would ask for his reasoning.
I would not recommend a higher wattage bulb. I heard they could have got more brightness out of this bulb but it is throttled back due to heat restrictions which could damage the panels. It would have been nice to be able to get Qualia brightness out of this thing

Thank you Alan, Dennis for the feedback........

Peter
post #82 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by nine ball View Post

Kraig, as noted above I have just replaced my bulb so I think I will buy a couple of spares to have on hand. I am NOT known for my adeptness in getting complex mechanical things to work well. Now that I have the housing for the old bulb out of the projector how difficult is it to figure out how to open it up? I know its a subjective answer but for some of us this stuff is not intuitive..........and there are no instructions. Peter

Peter,

I don't think replacing the lamp is too hard, especially when you have a housing outside of the unit ready to go. That is an ideal setup and makes for a quick replacement.

Look at where the Xenon lamp is in relation to the housing (on center top on mine) before starting.

There are six screws on one side of the housing, 4 on one edge and two on the other and then you can get the heat sink/lamp assembly out. The sinks have 3 screws on one side and four on the other and then some clips holding it together as well. It is a screw and snap together model. If you are prone to forgetting where things go take some pictures at each step and make it easy to retrace steps and see what goes where.

Once apart and then back together with the new lamp there are 8 different allen screws that provide for adjustment for up and down, right and left of the lamp in relation to the housing. This isn't a critical panel alignenment thing. It is just about getting your lamp centered and shooting lumens on target. You'll see what I mean.

For reference I've not done this before and it took an hour. Take your time and know where things go and remember there aren't any extra screws and you'll be fine .


Also thanks Alan and everyone for the lamp reset. I did it while the pj was in standby and it worked no problem.
post #83 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by kraigk View Post

Peter,

I don't think replacing the lamp is too hard, especially when you have a housing outside of the unit ready to go. That is an ideal setup and makes for a quick replacement.

Look at where the Xenon lamp is in relation to the housing (on center top on mine) before starting.

There are six screws on one side of the housing, 4 on one edge and two on the other and then you can get the heat sink/lamp assembly out. The sinks have 3 screws on one side and four on the other and then some clips holding it together as well. It is a screw and snap together model. If you are prone to forgetting where things go take some pictures at each step and make it easy to retrace steps and see what goes where.

Once apart and then back together with the new lamp there are 8 different allen screws that provide for adjustment for up and down, right and left of the lamp in relation to the housing. This isn't a critical panel alignenment thing. It is just about getting your lamp centered and shooting lumens on target. You'll see what I mean.

For reference I've not done this before and it took an hour. Take your time and know where things go and remember there aren't any extra screws and you'll be fine .


Also thanks Alan and everyone for the lamp reset. I did it while the pj was in standby and it worked no problem.


Thanks Kraig..........I'm printing this out and glueing it to my proj>>>>>>

Peter
post #84 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan Gouger View Post

Kraig it was team effort

I just dug out the manual, one important part of the process is missing in the notes for the lamp reset, the projector must be in standby mode. Im sorry


Great. Now I know that the manual is this complete with answers. Will mark the page
post #85 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by kraigk View Post

...Once apart and then back together with the new lamp there are 8 different allen screws that provide for adjustment for up and down, right and left of the lamp in relation to the housing. This isn't a critical panel alignenment thing. It is just about getting your lamp centered and shooting lumens on target. You'll see what I mean.
.

Did you have to remove these screws to replace the lamp? If not and the lamp has no slop room in the installation process, I would think that the lamp would be pretty much centered? Or, each lamp has filament that may be slightly in a different location, hence the throw pattern may be off?
Did you have to use these screws to readjust?
post #86 of 385
To be fair, I think it was Tryg who mentioned where to try for the bulb and we struck gold so I do not want to leave him out of the loop.
post #87 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by CharlesJ View Post

Did you have to remove these screws to replace the lamp? If not and the lamp has no slop room in the installation process, I would think that the lamp would be pretty much centered? Or, each lamp has filament that may be slightly in a different location, hence the throw pattern may be off?
Did you have to use these screws to readjust?


Charles,

I had to use these screws very little. They did work though. When you get it apart you'll see what I'm talking about. The lamp cand definitely be off center in the housing.
post #88 of 385
GREAT JOB guys !!!
Can you tell us if we can buy this lamp here in Europe (pm).
Christophe
A french forum ruby's owner guy:
homecinema-fr
post #89 of 385
Quote:
Originally Posted by kraigk View Post

Charles,

I had to use these screws very little. They did work though. When you get it apart you'll see what I'm talking about. The lamp cand definitely be off center in the housing.


Great. Thanks again. Just like to know as much beforehand than wishing afterwards a different path
post #90 of 385
chord

Welcome to the forum. PM sent!
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