need help from all you lumagen experts in setting up HDQ - Page 10  

I will not move from 1.4 either. I never use the internet for uprading firmware. That way if they screw up, they can usually catch it by the time they start shipping out the discs...

RichB has now reported that it's actually behaving the same i.e. 422 isn't working for SD DVD only HD DVD so it appears that any mystery has been removed.

Tosh will have to fix it, Patrick doesn't sound very optimistic that it's fixable as it's an issue with the Tosh simply not sending the 422 when sent the proper EDID info.

I still don't understand how HDMI-HDMI is working for both, but it does and provides video levels, so presumably is using 422.

cpcat could you try a homemade HD-DVD ?

Thx for trying to help, but no matter what I do, I get HDCP handshake problems 9 times out of 10 :(
I even get the snow screen when I go in the menu sometimes...

The HD Test Patterns HD DVD I made will not allow 422. :( This is the only one I have made so far though.

It's very odd to me that there is no mention anywhere of this Toshiba V2.0 problem.

Every forum I'm reading is pushing how to download it, because of the "TrueHD 5.1" feature and the "720P" fix, so you don't have to use 1080i on 720P displays.

I'm starting to post an FYI: Warning to those that may have an interest, on these sites with a link to this thread, about DVI and HDCP problems and the permanence of not being able to reinstall past software to correct this problem.

Paul

I've posted the info in both the Official 2.0 upgrade thread and the 2.0 fixes thread. They're moving so fast though that posts tend to get buried fairly quick.

I updated my HD-A1 to 2.0 yesterday, no problems so far. I still get a green screen on the A1 menus (same as with all previous firmware’s), but HD films play correctly at 4:2:2 - no new HDMI issues for me. My HDQ has the latest firmware. I don't use the A1 for SD DVD's, so I don't know if there are any issues there.

Ok that confirms it then... I tried 2 of them and they won't allow 422.
This is really CRAP !
Funny that Toshiba is making the difference between homemade and bought HD-DVDS...

Now... can anyone explain in detail what really happens when we use 444.
I don't care if BTB and WTW are clipped, they are only usefull for calibration.
But are they really clipped, or is the 16-235 range badly mapped to 0-255 ?
Is it really a big problem on the image ?
Is seemed to me that yes, the image was a lot worse than with 422... I could not get the same black level if I wanted the same black detail (ie less black detail for the same black level), and the contrast seemed to be lower...

I was watching some NFL preseason on CBS in HD lastnite and all I can say is WOW! I was using the Dynamic picture with the Ruby and sending in 1080p 59.94 hz from the HDQ. Close ups have never looked this good. And when they would go to commercial and it would show the stadium from a distance, just looked incredible. Especially the vivid colors of their uniforms and the deep black of the sky at night! :eek:

In order to get 1:1 mapping (i.e pixel-perfect), did you have to input all of the parameters in the exact output timing menu (VTOT, VRES, VSYN, VFRN, etc.) and if so, how do you find this for your particular display device (I have the Ruby)?

A little confused on this point.

Simon

On many displays you don't need to tweak these settings, if your display is 1920x1080 (Ruby) or 1280x720 the standard output parameters usually work correctly for 1:1 mapping. Often it is the plasmas (with odd resolutions) that need non-standard settings. There is a list of displays and the exact timing settings needed on the Lumagen users forum. If the vline and hline patterns don’t show any banding, and the overscan pattern does not show any cropping or underscan, you are good to go.

I don't think the Ruby or the Qualia actually allow you to totally bypass the internal video processing, but you can minimize it by feeding it a 1080p signal at a refresh rate the display supports directly.

Anyone ?

I talked to my contact at Toshiba and he is sending me the 2.0 disc firmware ASAP. Hopefully when I get it I can help...

Don't know for sure. I've heard knowledgeable people say both.

Expanding 16-235 to 0-255 could in theory cause color banding but I have never noticed any diffrerence. Leaving the levels alone (with BTB and peak W clipped) would provide fewer steps overall but should provide less likelihood of banding artifacts. I though the PQ on the A1 was spectacular with the 1.0 firmware (as most others did) and that was RGB with BTB and peak whites clipped.

The only difference I've noticed had to be pointed out to me and it shows up in minor loss of details in bright/white scenes.

That is not to say it shouldn't be fixed though.

Thx cpcat ;)
Anyone knows for sure ? :D