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Owners ONLY thread - >>>KDS-A2000's<<< - Settings/Tweaks - Page 9

post #241 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonWW View Post

Man, you got me confused.
Each input has it's own settings.

Hook your Xbox to input 4 and adjust it's picture settings to whatever looks best.

Hook your HDMI DVD player to input 7 and adjust it's picture settings to whatever looks best.

Then label each input with a preset name or a custom name.

The TV will remember each inputs settings, but write then down just in case the power goes out or something.

Does that answer your question?

thanks man
post #242 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by sourcery View Post

Yes, I use the same settings for HD and SD. I sometimes vary a particular setting for a particular channel or program, if I feel it's required. Such "special case" settings are more often necessary for SD, because there's a much wider range of picture quality and color accuracy among various channels and stations. HD channels are much more consistent with one another--although they also have slight variations, especially in color intensity levels.

I'm surprised by this.
I'm running my SD channels through Input 1 and the HD channels through Input 6. I set each of the inputs to the settings that looked the best. If I watch an SD channel through the HDMI Input 6 you can see too much noise and small artifacts. It's hard to watch. That's why I set Input 1 to have softer settings that blends the noise in and clears up those artifacts at the expense of losing the sharp details and since SD has no sharp details, you don't really lose anything.
post #243 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonWW View Post

I'm surprised by this.
I'm running my SD channels through Input 1 and the HD channels through Input 6. I set each of the inputs to the settings that looked the best. If I watch an SD channel through the HDMI Input 6 you can see too much noise and small artifacts. It's hard to watch. That's why I set Input 1 to have softer settings that blends the noise in and clears up those artifacts at the expense of losing the sharp details and since SD has no sharp details, you don't really lose anything.

SD on my set with my settings usually looks more than acceptable. Often, it looks almost as good as a DVD.

For SD, I use Comcast with the internal tuner whenever I can (which covers almost any SD program I would care about,) and Dishnetwork (Vip211; HDMI) otherwise. I do have a component connection from the Vip211 also active, with different SD-optimized settings (noise filtering set to high, etc,) but find I don't seem to need to use it.
post #244 of 3250
anyone know how to reduce the overscan on channels like espn?
post #245 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkim1120 View Post

anyone know how to reduce the overscan on channels like espn?

Call up ESPN and tell then to get their sh!t together?

I don't know. Have you checked how much overscan you TV has? Is it about right or way out of adjustment?
post #246 of 3250
wait.. you can save settings for each input?
post #247 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonathankk View Post

wait.. you can save settings for each input?

You not only can, you must.
post #248 of 3250
At first I didn't like the CNET settings, I thought that the resulting image looked dull and less colorful than other settings that I've tried. However, it is now starting to grow on me and I think that it looks more realistic. Has anyone else noticed that blacks are not very black with the CNET settings? I can adjust it by turning the brightness down or using the black corrector. I'm just curious if others have noticed this and what they are doing about it.

Thanks.
post #249 of 3250
Tweak Request...

I have a KDS-60A2000 and a Toshiba HD-A1 connected via HDMI (input 7). I was wondering if anybody had a set of tweaks/settings for this combo yet? I dont have any HD-DVD's yet (waiting on the mail man/ups/fedex) but watched Scarface and Finding Nemo (regular dvd) and it looked pretty good set to custom, the "enhancers" switched to off and bringing down a few of the other settings. Almost to what my TV tuner is set for.

Thanks.
Jon
post #250 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by buccikong View Post

At first I didn't like the CNET settings, I thought that the resulting image looked dull and less colorful than other settings that I've tried. However, it is now starting to grow on me and I think that it looks more realistic. Has anyone else noticed that blacks are not very black with the CNET settings? I can adjust it by turning the brightness down or using the black corrector. I'm just curious if others have noticed this and what they are doing about it.

Thanks.

I thought the same thing. I used the THX Optimizer Menu and reset my brightness to 54. Those 2 clicks definitely helped.
post #251 of 3250
Has anyone used the A2000 with a scaler or video processor? Is it worth the money? Don
post #252 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by buccikong View Post

At first I didn't like the CNET settings, I thought that the resulting image looked dull and less colorful than other settings that I've tried. However, it is now starting to grow on me and I think that it looks more realistic. Has anyone else noticed that blacks are not very black with the CNET settings? I can adjust it by turning the brightness down or using the black corrector. I'm just curious if others have noticed this and what they are doing about it.

Thanks.

You should contrast and compare against my settings. And you may need to adjust the brightness level for different lighting conditions. My settings are optimized for either daytime viewing (iris=Auto1) or nightime viewing with lots of lights on in the room (iris=Auto2.) I set the brightness to 59. However, with only a single light on, the brightness should be set to 58, and to 57 or even 56 in a totally dark room.
post #253 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by sourcery View Post

You should contrast and compare against my settings. And you may need to adjust the brightness level for different lighting conditions. My settings are optimized for either daytime viewing (iris=Auto1) or nightime viewing with lots of lights on in the room (iris=Auto2.) I set the brightness to 59. However, with only a single light on, the brightness should be set to 58, and to 57 or even 56 in a totally dark room.

Check out Eliab's comments on post 67 of the Samsung hls6187 vs Sony a2000 thread. He points toward keeping your settings optimal and changing the conditions to match the settings rather than vice versa.
post #254 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwiss View Post

Check out Eliab's comments on post 67 of the Samsung hls6187 vs Sony a2000 thread. He points toward keeping your settings optimal and changing the conditions to match the settings rather than vice versa.

And if your only goal is the absolute best PQ, I'd agree. But sometimes you have multiple goals, and when they conflict, you may need to make compromizes.

I really don't like watching TV in the dark. Strongly don't like it.
post #255 of 3250
[quote=sourcery]And if your only goal is the absolute best PQ, I'd agree. But sometimes you have multiple goals, and when they conflict, you may need to make compromizes.

I really don't like watching TV in the dark. Strongly don't like it.[/Q

Definitely one of the strong points of Sony's SXRD series is the many user menu adjustments. We do have so many options at our fingertips that most other TV's do not. And in the end we all get to enjoy great picture quality as a result. I'm watching the PGA and I feel like this TV saved me the cost of a plane and tournament ticket. Because I could swear that I am there with the golfers.
post #256 of 3250
Is anyone is actively seeking the CNET service menu tweak? With all of you hard core videophiles I would have to think that if a tweak exists and isn't openly posted that one of you would be all over it to the benefit of we newbies! :-)

Anthony
post #257 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by sourcery View Post

You should contrast and compare against my settings. And you may need to adjust the brightness level for different lighting conditions. My settings are optimized for either daytime viewing (iris=Auto1) or nightime viewing with lots of lights on in the room (iris=Auto2.) I set the brightness to 59. However, with only a single light on, the brightness should be set to 58, and to 57 or even 56 in a totally dark room.

Ok, so I actually watched TV tonight with only one dim light on, positioned way off to the side of the TV (so that it's outside my field of view while looking at the TV.) That's still not according to Eliab's recommendations, but it's a lot closer thereto than what I usually do.

I may do that more often, but only when I'm watching something that really matters, as opposed to just "browsing."

But the key point that needs to be made is that I found my brightness setting needs to be lowered from 59 to 50 in this situation, and not just to 58, as I mistakenly said above.
post #258 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post

Use the following remote sequence to gain access to the service menu:
<5>

Be very careful. Write the default settings down before changing anything!!!!

Once there, the following keys will control the settings:
The 1 & 4 key will move up and down the individual option choices
The 2 & 5 will "tab" you between sections
The 3 & 6 will make the changes to each option
The jump key will switch you between the different menu systems

I must be doing something wrong, the aboce sequence does nothing for me. Are you indicating that the power needs to be turned off first? HELP!!!
post #259 of 3250
Those steps to get you to the service menu DO work. I had to do it twice though. Maybe I paused too much between key presses. Again though, now that we can ACCESS the service menu, which setting needs to be tweaked to solve the 1080i HDMI signal issue. Sony? CNET? My fellow forum users? Anyone?

Anthony
post #260 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbh406 View Post

I must be doing something wrong, the aboce sequence does nothing for me. Are you indicating that the power needs to be turned off first? HELP!!!

With the tv on, the power should be turned off first. I have always started with the tv on and then followed the sequence.
post #261 of 3250
It seems simple enough. If the first step is POWER OFF, the only way to achieve that is for the TV to be ON in the first place, yes?

Anthony
post #262 of 3250
Finally got into the service menu, guess I was just going too fast. Thanks for feedback.
post #263 of 3250
Let me clarify the power-on/power-off understanding of the A2000 (and Sony Rear projection HDTVs in general).

- Let me start off by mentioning a term. "Power cycling" is when the bulb is turned off and later turned on. You want to limit power cycling to prolong the life of your bulb. Turning a bulb back on after the cooling cycle has started (but before the bulb is cool) is the worst form of power cycling. In general, when you turn your HDTV off, you should leave it off for awhile (not sure how long I usually wait at least .5 hours) before you turn it back on.

- When you first turn the power off, you aren't really turning it off. You are submitting a request for the TV to power down that will actually begin a few seconds later (even though the screen goes blank immediately). If you hit power again within a few seconds, the TV will snap back on WITHOUT your bulb having power cycled (the bulb never actually shuts down and starts the final cooling process). Let's call this time period between when you turn the power off to when the bulb really shuts down the "shutdown window".

- The way I access the service menu is I have the TV on, I turn it off, I enter <5> fast, and then I turn it back on while the TV is still in the "shutdown window". To get the TV out of service mode, I quickly turn it off and then back on again. Both of these methods (if done fast enough) can get you into and out of the service menu without power cycling your bulb.

These aren't necessarily the only methods of doing this, they are just the methods I use. Please let me know if my logic is flawed in any way. I hope this helps.
post #264 of 3250
Makes perfect sense Bill. Thanks for the explanation. Say, since you seem well versed in these things, is my persistence looking for the service menu fix a waste of time? After all if it WAS something worth following up on you'd think someone other than a newbie (me) would be trying to hunt it down.

Thanks for the info.

Anthony
post #265 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by analli View Post

Is anyone is actively seeking the CNET service menu tweak?
Anthony

I'm not actively seeking it. I'm just waiting for someone to post the LPF details. Eventually the info will get out. I'm not qualified to mess around in that area.
post #266 of 3250
Thanks Bill, that helps to better understand what the TV is doing. I'm still on the backside of the learning curve on this wonderful machine, and can't wait to get it totally tweaked for max performance.

BTW, does anyone have experience, and/or a solid opinion on whether it's best left to the ISF Tech's, or can we owners really achieve the same results. Hope I'm not being too redundant. Just don't want to mess anything up.

Thanks
post #267 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbh406 View Post

Thanks Bill, that helps to better understand what the TV is doing. I'm still on the backside of the learning curve on this wonderful machine, and can't wait to get it totally tweaked for max performance.

BTW, does anyone have experience, and/or a solid opinion on whether it's best left to the ISF Tech's, or can we owners really achieve the same results. Hope I'm not being too redundant. Just don't want to mess anything up.

Thanks

A good portion of what isf calibrators do requires properly calibrated equipment (typical investment is $5,000 to $10,000 and higher).

Sony displays in the last few years have lots of sub menus in the service menu. Many of the parameters there are disconnected (have no effect). Also, Sony is no longer including their SM settings in their Service Manuals. IF a user gets into the Service Menu he/she should follow the age old advice: WRITE DOWN INITIAL SETTINGS before making changes.

When (and IF) the info on LPF becomes available, the consumer should limit what they do in the SM to that.
post #268 of 3250
Thanks, Dave! From your description, I see you're a calibrator. So then, Does the LPF really have that much of an impact in dramatically improving the picture? If so, I too am anxious for this important information. Just curious though, I have a July 2006 unit, and CNET's site seems to indicate it's more problematic with the June 06, or earlier units. How would I be able to tell if mine needs to be tweaked?
post #269 of 3250
Quote:
Originally Posted by rbh406 View Post

How would I be able to tell if mine needs to be tweaked?

That's tough to answer. 1
You can use a PC to display a 1080 test pattern
2 Go into the Service Menu and check the settings (we don't have that info yet) or maybe
3 Try a test pattern from a DVD test disc like Avia or DVE.

I recorded the test patterns from HDNET (tue morning at 550am) and their patterns looked very small and my set was not able to fully seperated the lines. I tried the test patterns on the DVE disc and the fine lines where all clear. It can all be a moot point though. Just tune into a HD channel, tweak your settings and so forth and see if the image is razor sharp or not.
post #270 of 3250
Thread Starter 
Anyone know if it is true the screen "tilt" can be adjusted by screws inside?

If true, could anyone attest to whether on not the screws or other adjustments could adjust the optical overscan even slightly??
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