Originally Posted by yelloguy
I would be interested in this too. Is there a post here that has step-by-step instructions on doing a DIY caliberation? I have an AVIA disc and am afraid of chaning service menu settings so when I change the settings using AVIA, I am not really sure what the right value is. AVIA can get you to the correct range but not the correct setting IMHO.
Also there are a ton of White Balance settings for this set which AVIA does not cover.
Hopefully I can use the color meter for my bedroom LCD (Sharp) and my computer monitor too so for about $100, it seems like a reasonable buy. Is one available in local stores like Radio Shack?
PS: I changed the bulb on this set and now my colors look washed out. Dialling down brightness and/or Iris did not look good either. Then I tried random settings posted here and the picture looked better.
This thread is a great place to start as it gives the basics for display calibration;http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=852536
To give you some specifics on calibrating the SXRD A2000 series TV I will assume that you are using the freeware ColorHCFR software as well as either the AVS Blu-Ray compatible test disc (available as a download in the calibration forum) or the free DVD from Color HCFR.
1. Install Color HCFR on a laptop you will use for calibration (you can use a desktop if you have one in your viewing area). You might want to get a USB extension cable too so that you can sit further back from the TV when making adjustments.
2. Download and burn either the Color HCFR test disc or the AVS AVCHD Test Disc for Blu-Ray or HD-DVD.
3. Buy a compatible sensor. I like the Eye-One, you can find kits with this sensor bundled for under $100 if you look around and check the calibration forum threads for buy deals.
4. Load the necessary software/drivers for your sensor. You will need to copy the DLL file for the sensor into the colorHCFR program directory so that it can see the sensor when plugged in.
5. If doing calibration with the Blu-Ray compatible AVS AVCHD test disc, set your color space to REF709 in the test software under "preferences". This is important since HD material and SD material use different color spaces.Now, assuming you've gotten all of this working, how do you calibrate this TV?
Before you start you want your TV warmed up for at least 30 minutes running bright content. Calibration must be performed in a DARK
room. Don't calibrate in mid-day.
1. Reset settings for the input you will be using to defaults (record your old settings first if desired) and choose an Iris setting you want to calibrate with. I would avoid calibration with dynamic Iris since it can affect the readings. You can always calibrate with Iris at medium or high and then change the iris settings after calibration if you want a brighter picture, it won't throw things off too much.
2. Press the green "start" button on the Color HCFR software and answer "yes" to sensor calibration. Put the sensor in a dark place and click "ok" to calibrate the sensor.
2. Put up a 100% White box pattern from the test disc and position your sensor over it. I use a tripod leaned against the screen with the sensor resting on the screen directly. The sensor should be reading, you can tell it is by seeing the RGB values in the lower left of the display. You will see a contrast level measured in Foot Lamberts (FtL). This is your overall contrast setting. Generally for digital RPTV you are shooting for a setting of 30-40 but with the excellent SXRD you can go much higher and not have bleed out, etc. I calibrate for 50 ft/l and the rest of the calculations use this value. Adjust contrast until the TV reads the desired value for Ft/L
. Make sure when calibrating you are not reading the values with the TV menu on the screen!
3. Now that you've calibrated your contrast, it's time to calibrate brightness. Put up the 10% grayscale
settings and get the 10% (10 IRE) window displayed on the screen. Make sure your meter is still reading (mine gets stuck sometimes but quickly unplugging it and plugging it back in wakes it up). Calibrate Ft/L by adjusting brightness control
until you get a reading of .65% of the value you got for the 100% window. In our example of reading 50 ft/l for 100% then you will be adjusting for 0.325 Ft/L on the 10% window. This sets the screen brightness for a 2.2 Gamma value (the industry spec) at 10 IRE and it should more or less hold throughout the brightness range of the set at all IRE values.
4. Now pull up the primary colors from the DVD menu and pull up a 100% RED
color window. Adjust Ft/L to read 21% of what it read when you calibrated 50 ft/L for the 100% window. Adjust your COLOR CONTROL
up and down to get this adjusted, do not
make adjustments to picture or brightness. From our example you would be calibrating for an Ft/L reading on the 100% RED window of approximately 10.5 Ft/L.
5. Now pull up a 25% or 20% gray window. See the RGB values in the lower left of the screen and how they are all over the place? This is your gray scale and it's way WAY off. Keep in mind that when possible you want to reduce the oversaturated colors before you EVER bring up a color. Gain controls overall saturation and affects the brighter IREs more and BIAS adjusts the fine tuning more. You want to make the minimal adjustments you can to these primaries to get them reading as close to 100% for Red Green and Blue as possible. You will make these adjustments in "advanced settings" under "white balance"
6. Now repeat step 5 with a 50% window. Go back to 25% and adjust again. When you have 25% and 50% reading pretty well check 75%. It should be tracking well but you can adjust here too. The goal is to get RGB tracking even for the full IRE range but in reality you will not be able to get it great in the lowest IRE values. You want the best performance in the critical 25%-75% since that's where you will notice color differences, skin tones, etc, the most.
/That's it. Your set should look remarkably better than it did and you didn't even have to go into the service menu
. The first time you do this it might take an hour or two, but after some practice you will be able to do it in 30 minutes. This just scratches the surface of what these TVs can do, you can get more detailed info and learn about more calibration techniques in the thread I linked and in the general calibration forum for the HCFR software.
You should also plan on adjusting again every 90 days or so as the brightness of your bulb changes.