Owners ONLY thread - >>>KDS-A2000's<<< - Settings/Tweaks - Page 107

I just replaced the bulb in my KDS-55A2000 after 8700 hrs. There was a yellow circular hue that is still there after the bulb change. Anyone see this or know what do about it?

Also, how do I reset the bulb replacement counter to 1?

Thanks for any help.

I also made the jump from my 50A2000 witch was a great tv in its time to the 50G10. I love it. Had a hard time jumping from lcd to plasma but glad I did.

look in menu, should be able to reset counter for bulb hours

Is it possible to access the service menu w/o the remote? I've (my kids) have misplaced it. If so, how?

No.

Go into the regular TV Menu - Settings/Setup/Lamp Replacement/Start/Yes

By the way, approaching 9500 hours on the original bulb and everything still looks great from PC to PS3/Blu-ray to XBOX 360/HD DVD to normal TV viewing and no yellow/green stains either. The set is from September 2006, I guess I was one of the rare lucky ones(knock on wood).

was curious if anybody has watched The Hurt Locker Blu Ray on this set yet?

I noticed on the frame where the IED goes off and the soldier in the suit takes a dive, his foot covered in chain linked armor comes up and it looks quite strange...hard to explain, but a shiny greenish/red optical illusion effect to it...and some of the smaller pieces of rocks on the ground have this greenish red look to them as well.

I assumed it was something with the settings and ran my DVE disc through again (also noticed the overscan was off by an extreme amount) but it did not fix the problem, anybody know what is causing this, or what setting needs to be changed to fix this? All my advanced picture settings are off, color matric is all set to 601, and the sharpness is toned down to a 9

I ordered an Eye-One Display LT and received it yesterday and put it to work as soon as night fell. Completely dark in the room minus the light coming from the laptop computer and the tv I ran my tests...

RGB_Luminance_Before


RGB_Levels_Before


Gamma_Before


Color_Temp_Before


CIE_Diagram_Before



I'm satisfied with the changes made after running through the tests and adjusting the Gain and Bias settings, but I realize they could be better.

RGB_Luminance_After


RGB_Levels_After


Gamma_After


Color_Temp_After


CIE_Diagram_After



The Gamma I'm not sure what to adjust to get that to the right point and at around the 10IRE level where the points are out of whack. I did all my adjustments using the 30IRE and 80IRE test patterns, would it be a lot more accurate to run through each one, 0IRE-100IRE to get the most accurate results possible? I'd be more then willing to spend the time and money in alcohol staying up all night to make them. If so, at which point in the IRE patterns should I switch from adjusting the Gain to the Bias?

I appreciate any input, tips, opinions and advice!

I would say your greyscale values are well within the error range of your meter.

If anyone tells you how to adjust your gamma, please share with the rest of us!

So constant adjustments to the Gain and Bias wouldnt bring them closer to the "desired dashed line" reference point on the charts?
I assume that the 0 and 10 IRE levels are so low that any changes to them wouldnt be very noticeable?

Thanks for the reply

Hi JRT2006,

The various colored lines on your "RGB Levels after" graph are pretty darn close to the target. Look through a few Home Theater magazine reviews of TV sets, and see the sets they rated highly that are much further away from standard than yours is.

I am pretty confident that if you measured your TV without adjusting anything two or three times in a row, you would get two or three different curves that are all still pretty close to that target. That's called repeatability error, and it is what i mean by the error in the meter. You might be right on target, or a little off, could be up or down. I do not think we can tell with the meters we have.

Consumer meters are also, reportedly, even more inaccurate at the lower IRE levels. My greyscale looks all screwy down there too.

What matters in the end is that my picture looks really good, and I bet yours does as well.

I do not know how to make the gamma curve flatter on this set. The gamma adjustments just move the same diagonal line up and down the scale, and maybe affect it's slope a little, but not much. I am going on memory here, I have not played with this in a while. If anybody knows how to flatten this out, I would love a lesson.

Regards,
Joe

Thank you jme,

and just for my reference, is it better to have all the color lines as close to the target plot as possible or is it okay to have the smoothed average directly on it. I've been playing with my settings all night long and have been recording what inputs ive made....my most recent has all the color lines perfectly lined on one another but below the target in the lower IRE range, crossing over the target in the middle, and above the target in the higher. But the smoothed average plot is directly lined up with the target.

I've also messed around with settings in the user panel and got average gamma measured at 2.24 above the 2.22 target with a varied slope gamma line.

I must say, the picture does look quite amazing, just need to get my black levels where they belong.

Opinions on the black level adjustment listed in curtpalme.com's tutorial over the eyeball adjustments made with DVE?

from http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457

That's a great question. Given what i just said about guage accuracy, it might not matter one way or the other, but IMHO I would go for getting all the lines fluttering around the target as opposed to half below/half above. I think the settings that produced the graph above are darn near perfect.

I have always thought the method detailed at greyscale for dummies crushed the black detail a bit too much to my liking on my set. I think this is because of the poor gamma we are both seeing, and not any error in the method, but of course I am self taught in this and not an expert. I have always brought it up a notch or two after I've been watching real world material for a few minutes.

I think those curves look amazing. I am playing with the A2020 and now have more confidence I can get to better grey.

Since the idea is to get the grey with the proper balance of RGB, I think you hit the nail on the head. You may be able to flatten out what little Y variation you have by adjusting Brightness and Picture. I assume you are using a fixed IRIS.

I know this is from an old post, but I am just getting into calibrating my 60A2020 with an i1LT and HCFR. If blevin can't answer, maybe some one else can.

In the Service Menu, there seems to be many places to adjust Grey scale balance with RGB Bias/Gain adjustment.

WB menu has
R_GAIN (and G B)
R_BIAS (and G B)
SUB_CON
SUB_BRT

and

CDWB_RG
CDWB_GG
CDWB_BG
CDWB_RB
CDWB_GB
CDWB_BB

and

R_GAINR (G B)..[EDIT: This set seems to be readings only
R_BIASR (G B)...and not adjustments. The readings seam to change with
R_CONT...........the picture content. This may be due to having Dynamic IRIS
R_BRT..............set. Will investigate more. 3/10/10]


DRV menu has
GAIN_R (G B)
BIAS_R (G B)


CNV menu has
GAIN_R (G B).........[EDIT: These seem to be MACRO settings.]
OFSET_R (G B)




What is the best to use for a input independant adjustment, preferably resolution independant as well?

Sorry for the cross post, but I imagine this concerns the A2000 and A2020 and it may save a someone a few hours in time.

I discovered that the settings in the User Menu --> Custom --> Advanced Adjustment --> White Balance affect the Standard mode as well. (I didn't check VIVID)

To say it another way: If you go into the White Balance Menu of the Custom picture mode and set RED GAIN to -10, and leave BLUE and GREEN at 0, you should notice the color distortion in the picture. Now switch to Standard picture mode, you should see the same distortion of colors.

I always assumed the CUSTOM settings only affected the CUSTOM mode. I wonder what other settings in CUSTOM affect the other modes.

This could be an advantage or disadvantage, depending on how you like to setup your settings.

I also found the grey scale is affected by the IRIS setting. I had hoped to have STANDARD be calibrated for normal evening watching with HIGH IRIS and CUSTOM set for for dark room theater viewing with MIN IRIS. So I figured I could balance the grey scale for each mode, but that aint gonna happen...

So, before you adjust your grey scale in any picture mode, be sure to reset the CUSTOM White Balance to zeros.

Does anyone have a current link to download the service manual?

KDS60A2000_sm.pdf

Thanks!

Well, it finally happened to me. I replaced the lamp in January only to develop the dreaded yellow-green discoloration shortly thereafter. It got progressively worse since then so I finally called Sony and told them the problem. No resistance at all - after I gave them the serial number and build date (Nov. 2006) they gave me the names of a couple of local TV repair shops. The shop I went with had to order the optical block from Mexico and it arrived in time to do the replacement last Saturday. WOW, what an improvement. I had forgotten how incredible the picture could be. I'll let it burn in for a month or two before calling the ISF calibrator but right now I'm very happy.

Do you know whether the optical block they put in was NEW or Rebuilt?

Unfortunately I have no idea. Is there an easy way to tell?

Not really. Just when it fails again.

Unfortunately, they never "fixed" whatever the original problem was. That's what the lawsuit is all about.

Damn. Well, I'll definitely be keeping a close eye on it from now on. Any idea how long I should wait before having it re-calibrated by an ISF guy?

Gamma_After


So I spent about 3 hours messing with my Calman software last night, I was really interested in the Gamma Graph - wanted to get it as close to perfect as possible and we all seemed to have trouble and getting results like the one above from my readings a few months back. Well I was trying different settings and going back and forth in both the user and service menu when I finally got a decent reading within both the white and blue line. I didnt take a snapshot of the screen, so tonight when the sun goes down and the lollipop kids are in bed, I will run another reading and show.

The big difference maker was the Advanced Iris, I went from Auto 1 which gave readings like above and moved it to HIGH with with Low Gamma and High Black Corrector in the advanced settings to get the results

That looks really good!

I've pretty much stopped calibrating mine in anticipation of getting a Panasonic Plasma. Will see what the reviews look like first.

The image i posted with my above thread is from my old calibration months ago. I remember I had asked about getting that gamma curve more even or smooth and there was no answer, nobody knew what to do. So i just messed with settings and I ended up making it a lot better. Ill post the new image soon

Is it possible to run an HDMI out from my PC to one of the HDMI inputs on the A2000 and use it as a computer monitor? Or can you only connect via VGA?

Yes, you can! But because of overscan, you will have to adjust down from 1920x1080 somewhat, to avoid the edges being cropped off.

In Windows, with NVidia tools, you use the screen size adjustment, to fine tune the image to just fit on your A2000 without large black borders.

Hope this helps (and yes, it looks better than the VGA input ever could).

So the wife and I were watching a DVD on our PS3, and suddenly, a loud POP and the screen (50A2000) turns off. I try turning it on again, and the green light blinks...and blinks...then BAM, goes red. It continues blinking forever and ever.

Google searches has led me to find a few things, but nothing concrete. It sounds like JSteel at the top of this page had a similar problem and ordered a new lamp. I found a lamp on Amazon for 100 or so bucks:

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/AS...nandscathed-20

Is this the solution to my problem, or is the TV dead? I'm going to call Sony tomorrow...depressing, though.

Okay, so upon closer inspection, it IS the lamp that needs replacing (I didn't realize it was the LAMP light that was blinking). This is good news

However, when I bought the TV in May 2007, I bought it in Canada at Future Shop and got a 4 year warranty. I have since moved to the USA, so I'm not sure how my warranty would work.

I'm tempted to just buy the bulb from the Amazon link I just posted...would be a lot quicker.

I had my PC connected to my Sony KDL-Z5100 from a Sapphire Radeon HD4550 via HDMi and the picture was awesome. I moved it to the A2000 and can't see a thing on either of the HDMI inputs; the screen is just dark on both of them. Any idea on what I may doing wrong, or need to do?

Thank you!