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Owners ONLY thread - >>>KDS-A2000's<<< - Settings/Tweaks - Page 108

post #3211 of 3237
8/11/10 at 1:32pm
Called the Future Shop support, and bulbs aren't covered (of course).

I ordered that bulb from Amazon (114 bucks or so) and will be getting it tomorrow. I hope it's an easy install...

Also, we're talking about moving back to Canada next year. How can I break my TV so I can get a new one
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post #3212 of 3237
8/11/10 at 6:44pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by ocelittle View Post

Called the Future Shop support, and bulbs aren't covered (of course).

I ordered that bulb from Amazon (114 bucks or so) and will be getting it tomorrow. I hope it's an easy install...

Also, we're talking about moving back to Canada next year. How can I break my TV so I can get a new one

The bulb replacement is pretty basic and straightforward. If you type "Sony XL-5200" on YouTube there are some videos going over replacing the bulb.
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post #3213 of 3237
8/14/10 at 3:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris83 View Post

Is it possible to run an HDMI out from my PC to one of the HDMI inputs on the A2000 and use it as a computer monitor? Or can you only connect via VGA?

Quote:
Originally Posted by tinkererguy View Post

Yes, you can! But because of overscan, you will have to adjust down from 1920x1080 somewhat, to avoid the edges being cropped off.

In Windows, with NVidia tools, you use the screen size adjustment, to fine tune the image to just fit on your A2000 without large black borders.

Hope this helps (and yes, it looks better than the VGA input ever could).

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris83 View Post

I had my PC connected to my Sony KDL-Z5100 from a Sapphire Radeon HD4550 via HDMi and the picture was awesome. I moved it to the A2000 and can't see a thing on either of the HDMI inputs; the screen is just dark on both of them. Any idea on what I may doing wrong, or need to do?

Thank you!

Okay, just for the heck of it I took a small DVD player player and hooked it up to the two HDMI inputs on the A2000...nothing. The lamp comes on, pic via the antenna is fine, but nothing on the HDMI inputs. They were fine before; can they fail just like that? Both of them?
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post #3214 of 3237
8/14/10 at 9:23pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris83 View Post

..... pic via the antenna is fine, but nothing on the HDMI inputs. They were fine before; can they fail just like that? Both of them?

While they "could" fail...just like that, they probably didn't. Occasionally, some components from different manufacturers don't get along because of HDCP, especially where the source is a computer running HDCP protected material. However, because you say you ALSO tested a plain DVD player, it probably isn't a component to component problem. That leaves just the HDMI cable. I recently had a friend with the same problem and when he tried a new (recently manufactured) HDMI cable it worked....just like that. Mind you, the cable he replaced was working on another source and different TV.

If you've already tried a new cable, chuck that TV out the window, or better yet, through Sony's window for making their SXRD dogs, (A2000, A2020, A3000) which they knew had bad optical blocks.

P.S. When you say they "were fine before", what do you mean? What were you feeding to the HDMI before? Was it with the same HDMI cable?
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post #3215 of 3237
8/26/10 at 7:17pm
Earlier this week, I noticed some green blobs in 'white' scenes in the lower right quadrant of my 4-year old 60A2000. Later, the blobs turned into a single horizontal and vertical line, then into a circle. First instance of this artifact on this HDTV. A lot of experimentation with a calibration disk over the next few nights revealed some interesting characteristics:

- The artifact is not apparent when TV is first turned on. It would appear after set was in use for a while.
- Green artifact readily noticeable in content with a lot of white in lower right quadrant.
- Experimentation with color fields showed artifact on Blue field, and to lesser extent on Cyan field, but not on Red, Green, Yellow, or Magenta fields.
- Artifact most noticeable in a blue color field, where defect appeared as an absence of blue.
-After many hours of watching various content, then switching to blue color field to see if defect was present, it became evident that the 'defect' was not random, but usually a pattern. In most cases, the pattern was obviously the channel bug that is usually displayed in lower right corner of most broadcasts. For example, after watching a hour of TNT, the blue color field would show the TNT logo "burned in" on the blue color field. It would slowly vanish over a period of time.
- The 'burn in' is quick. I could put a graphic overlay over the blue field for a few seconds and when graphic was removed, there would be an after image of the graphic burned in the blue. The longer the graphic was present before being removed, the longer it took the after image to vanish.

Conclusion: A problem has developed in the blue SXRD panel such that static images suppress pixels on the panel. In a white field, the suppressed blue results in a light green artifact.

Would having a OB swap performed, correct this problem?
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post #3216 of 3237
8/26/10 at 8:17pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by WGW View Post

Would having a OB swap performed, correct this problem?


The short answer to your question is YES! However, while if it were replaced with a new or refurb OB, there seems to be NO guarantee that you will get it replaced with a "good" new or refurbed OB. They seem to be using mostly refurbed OBs for replacement in many instances (and you can't tell by looking whether it is new or refurbed. And, whether new or refurb, there is just no way to know how long it will last. But rest assured, if it's not good right after replacement, it will only get worse.

In your case (an A2000), I believe you only have a few more days to contact them under the extended warranty.

Good Luck!
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post #3217 of 3237
8/27/10 at 7:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by WGW View Post

Earlier this week, I noticed some green blobs in 'white' scenes in the lower right quadrant of my 4-year old 60A2000. Later, the blobs turned into a single horizontal and vertical line, then into a circle. First instance of this artifact on this HDTV. A lot of experimentation with a calibration disk over the next few nights revealed some interesting characteristics:

- The artifact is not apparent when TV is first turned on. It would appear after set was in use for a while.
- Green artifact readily noticeable in content with a lot of white in lower right quadrant.
- Experimentation with color fields showed artifact on Blue field, and to lesser extent on Cyan field, but not on Red, Green, Yellow, or Magenta fields.
- Artifact most noticeable in a blue color field, where defect appeared as an absence of blue.
-After many hours of watching various content, then switching to blue color field to see if defect was present, it became evident that the 'defect' was not random, but usually a pattern. In most cases, the pattern was obviously the channel bug that is usually displayed in lower right corner of most broadcasts. For example, after watching a hour of TNT, the blue color field would show the TNT logo "burned in" on the blue color field. It would slowly vanish over a period of time.
- The 'burn in' is quick. I could put a graphic overlay over the blue field for a few seconds and when graphic was removed, there would be an after image of the graphic burned in the blue. The longer the graphic was present before being removed, the longer it took the after image to vanish.

Conclusion: A problem has developed in the blue SXRD panel such that static images suppress pixels on the panel. In a white field, the suppressed blue results in a light green artifact.

Would having a OB swap performed, correct this problem?

As Techman says, the OB is failing on your TV and must be replaced. It is advisable to do this while Sony is paying the bill because if you paid for it out of your own pocket it would be more cost effective to simply junk the set and put the money into a new one.
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post #3218 of 3237
8/27/10 at 8:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ocelittle View Post

Called the Future Shop support, and bulbs aren't covered (of course).

I ordered that bulb from Amazon (114 bucks or so) and will be getting it tomorrow. I hope it's an easy install...

Also, we're talking about moving back to Canada next year. How can I break my TV so I can get a new one

The bulb you ordered might not come in the housing, despite the picture on Amazon... which means you will have to put the new bulb in the original housing. I usually buy the bulb already in a housing to make installation easier.
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post #3219 of 3237
9/12/10 at 4:15pm
Hi all.... quick question.... watching tv tonight and i noticed the green power led flashing constantly... no other symptoms... fan running.. no messages... lamp is less then a year old..

shut off TV and let fan stop.... repowered and all is ok.. no flashes.. any ideas what this means??
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post #3220 of 3237
9/12/10 at 4:43pm
I don't believe this is lamp related. I get the flashing green occasionally on power up. The picture comes on after a longer than normal warm up period, but the TV does not respond to remote commands.

I called Sony on this problem and they said it often happens because of powerline spikes in your home power supply, particularly if you power your A2000 from a power strip.

A simple power off, wait 60 seconds, and then power on usually makes the problem go away, and the remote works thereafter.
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post #3221 of 3237
9/17/10 at 2:52am
So for a while now i've been having trouble with the 'tilt' of my screen. It seemed to be tilted counter-clockwise quite a bit. I played around with the manual tilt slider and found that changing it to the A position barely helped at all. And just to see what it looked like i tried setting it to the C position. When i did i noticed that it didn't really rotate that much... instead it just lifted the entire screen up quite a bit, and to the right slightly...

I know alot of people have had a problem with the tilt and have fixed it... but the tilt still really bothers me in games and menus where there are straight lines.

i've replaced the bulb once, and had the optical block replaced. I don't know exactly when this 'tilt' started to appear, because it wasn't always like this.

Any suggestions on how i can rotate it a bit more clockwise?
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post #3222 of 3237
9/20/10 at 7:12pm
Hey all great info here but i cant seem to find one thing. I need to access the service menu using a universal remote from my verizon fios set top box. I cant find the actual remote. any help would be amazing!
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post #3223 of 3237
9/20/10 at 11:32pm
Original post deleted at the request of the OP
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post #3224 of 3237
9/21/10 at 8:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leftcoastdave View Post

Seriously, you cannot find your remote, to a $2000 TV and you want us to help? Duh?

Seriously, you cannot find your remote to a $1000 TV and you want us to help? Duh?
FIXED: Commas really are a pain, and I am not sure what being able to find a remote has to do with people helping someone with a question about using universal remotes to access the Service Menu.

You either misunderstand or are just really that rude. I just moved into my house and have a garage full of electronic equipment that would take days to dig through to find my remote control that I never use. Verizon Fios provides a universal remote that controls all of my AV equipment more than adequately, so the factory remote is of little use to me for day to day stuff.

The question I am asking, is there a way to access the Service Menu with a universal remote vice the original factory remote, even thought the universal remote does not have a display or a jump button. If you have nothing of value to add to the thread and just want to flame please say nothing at all and move along. Your flame posts do nothing but detract from the point of this thread.
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post #3225 of 3237
9/22/10 at 9:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mellamojay View Post

Seriously, you cannot find your remote to a $1000 TV and you want us to help? Duh?
FIXED: Commas really are a pain, and I am not sure what being able to find a remote has to do with people helping someone with a question about using universal remotes to access the Service Menu.

You either misunderstand or are just really that rude. I just moved into my house and have a garage full of electronic equipment that would take days to dig through to find my remote control that I never use. Verizon Fios provides a universal remote that controls all of my AV equipment more than adequately, so the factory remote is of little use to me for day to day stuff.

The question I am asking, is there a way to access the Service Menu with a universal remote vice the original factory remote, even thought the universal remote does not have a display or a jump button. If you have nothing of value to add to the thread and just want to flame please say nothing at all and move along. Your flame posts do nothing but detract from the point of this thread.

I think the person was just being rude like you said. I hope you find an answer to your question about the universal remote and access to the service menu. I will try to do a search online and see what I come up with.
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post #3226 of 3237
12/26/10 at 1:00am
Since the extended recall has expired on this tv now, has anyone found any setting that will atleast make this not as noticable. About 2 to 3 months ago, my TV started to experience the optical block problems that alot of people have had. About 75% of my screen looks to have a gold hue over everything displayed. Looks like im playing Fallout New Vegas all the time
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post #3227 of 3237
2/11/11 at 8:23am
I'm very late to the calibration party with my set and appreciate all the info provided. But, I feel like an idiot... I cannot get my set to go into the Service Menu. I'm on Input 6 with set powered on: I press "TV POWER", Display, 5, volume up, TV POWER and all that happens is the set shuts off. I'm rushing thru to get it done within 5 seconds.

What am I missing??

Thanks in advance!
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post #3228 of 3237
2/12/11 at 6:57am
Start with power off. BTW, my brother-in-law, who has a plasma, recently saw mine for the first time and was very impressed with the PQ. He did not realize that RPTVs could have such a great image. I just wonder how impressive a prof calibration would be?
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post #3229 of 3237
2/12/11 at 8:04am
Thanks, I had found another thread then my brain latched onto the concept. I've confirmed my set (December 2006 build) had the LPF correctly set (value 7 on Input 6). Now just waiting on my S&M calibration disk (hmmm, i'll leave that one alone for now) to check convergence, which I suspect is off as white text looks fuzzy to me.

A friend of mine just purchased a Sammy 63" Plasma and I feel like my set is a CRT from 1972 in comparison. It's jaw drop stunning on all material I've seen on it. I'm nowhere near the video geek he is, but damn, it's outrageous!
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post #3230 of 3237
3/11/11 at 3:27pm
Just to follow up, I've gone thru calibration and adjustment based on settings in this thread and using the S&M calibration disk and I've been able to really dial in the performance of my set.

I'm a D* customer as well and I find having the DVR set to Native = on has made a huge difference in live TV viewing quality.

Thanks to the forum contributions, I love my SXRD again!
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post #3231 of 3237
5/12/11 at 6:37am
So I purchased my 60A2000 like 4 years ago now, have had no issues other than the one where the full 1080P image wasn't being displayed (using the TV as a computer monitor) I fixed that with the info from this forum, and the rest has been smooth sailing...until recently.

What I am experiencing now is that the TV video like "shuts off" after it has been on for a bit (like 5 hours). I can shut the TV off, wait until the fan stops, then restart it, and when it restarts I can hear a very high pitched sound, like capacitor noise for those with electonics experience, and then it's fine for a while.

I did the careful job of dismantling the back, verified that both fans were spinning, and even went so far as to dismantle everything and painstakingly clean it all out (4 years of dust is pretty yech). While this has made the problem less frequent, it hasn't gone away completely.

This makes me think it's a heat related issue. Is there any way to "dial up" the fans other than the simple settings in the normal user menu, such as in the service menu?

And a second question...does anyone have a program to read/parse the SONYDTVC and SONYDTVD files? (the .SD or .UD ones)

Thanks!


Chris
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post #3232 of 3237
5/12/11 at 10:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by cronos1013 View Post

So I purchased my 60A2000 like 4 years ago now, have had no issues other than the one where the full 1080P image wasn't being displayed (using the TV as a computer monitor) I fixed that with the info from this forum, and the rest has been smooth sailing...until recently.

What I am experiencing now is that the TV video like "shuts off" after it has been on for a bit (like 5 hours). I can shut the TV off, wait until the fan stops, then restart it, and when it restarts I can hear a very high pitched sound, like capacitor noise for those with electonics experience, and then it's fine for a while.

I did the careful job of dismantling the back, verified that both fans were spinning, and even went so far as to dismantle everything and painstakingly clean it all out (4 years of dust is pretty yech). While this has made the problem less frequent, it hasn't gone away completely.

This makes me think it's a heat related issue. Is there any way to "dial up" the fans other than the simple settings in the normal user menu, such as in the service menu?

And a second question...does anyone have a program to read/parse the SONYDTVC and SONYDTVD files? (the .SD or .UD ones)

Thanks!


Chris

Could be the lamp ballast.
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post #3233 of 3237
5/13/11 at 6:02pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by WaldorfSalad View Post

Could be the lamp ballast.


Now is the Ballast included in that little cage? or is it another piece altogether.
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post #3234 of 3237
6/12/11 at 12:28pm
So an update, I replaced the lamp, and the random shutting off has gone away.

I used some of the suggested settings in this thread to get rid of my ooh so strange yellow tint, but now light textures are hard to see, it's like the screen is too white...any suggestion on how to fix that.

I use the TV as a PC monitor, and until the yellow invasion, it was working great. An example of the issue would be the box where you type under the word Title (when replying to a thread) is nearly invisible.

Thanks

Chris
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post #3235 of 3237
9/17/11 at 4:07pm
Hello all, I have a 55A2000 from 4 years. I learned recently that the green stripe on the screen is a defect of OB. It can be seen only with a fully black screen, but after reading this forum I understand that it may develop in the future. Does Sony change OB after warranty? After reading the tips on this board has regulated my TV well but lacks the perfection of overscan and motion blur. Is there a possibility to adjust overscan through the lens and how is it done? My guess is that the option scancon ubok) IVS does not regulate the lens and the resolution is lost. I've heard that it is possible to adjust the image by means of screws hidden behind the front panel. Blur bothers me when slowly shifting scenes, or is it the solution? Usually I watch 1080i and 1080p.
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post #3236 of 3237
2/13/13 at 11:58am
I'm getting ready to replace my bulb. I'm trying to find the menu that will let me see how many bulb hours I have on this bulb. I have tried going into settings, and I don't see it there. I've tried going into dignostics, but it is telling me "diagnostics not available", so something must need to be set differently. I did this the last time and i remeber after getting to the right menu I had to push a button 19 times to scroll to the bulb hours. If anyone has that post tagged or can provide me that info, I'd sure appreciateit. Thanks.
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post #3237 of 3237
2/21/13 at 10:11am
Go to youtube, this should get you to the desired, simple, easy to follow VIDEO URL= http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zhrn92nyIMQ]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zhrn92nyIMQ[/URL]
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