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Owners ONLY thread - >>>KDS-A2000's<<< - Settings/Tweaks - Page 30

post #871 of 3237
9/28/06 at 10:40pm
Well, I've had the 60A2000 in our home now for 24 hours. This TV is awesome. Everyone who says it's MUCH better in the home with good feeds and tweaks compared to retailer setups is absolutely right. It's quite good OTB, but this set is nothing less than amazing when set up properly. SD ranges from acceptable to really good, depending on the source. Overall SD performance is a lot better than I expected.

I'm using sourcery's settings on all inputs right now except for the game input, and I'm really pleased with these settings as a starting point. Thanks much, sourcery for your recommendations.

I don't agree with the comments about purplish blacks. Blacks look purple when they're supposed to, e.g. when there is purple lighting in the scene. Blacks are inky even with Black Corrector off on my set. I can see that Black Corrector can enhance blacks with sources that can benefit from it, but it looks like it's always at the expense of shadow detail.

DVDs on the NS75H with HDMI cable are better than I expected. I chose the NS75H over the OPPO to save a few $ and I can't imagine any better PQ with the OPPO. I'm in no hurry to get BR or HD-DVD since upscaled DVDs look so good with this setup.

Thanks to all who contribute to this forum. I'll continue to browse for tweaks and tips to make this outstanding product even better.

Before buying the A2000 I waited for the Mits 831 to compare. No comparison in terms of overall PQ, and the 57831 costs more than the 60A2000.
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post #872 of 3237
9/29/06 at 5:27am
auxili, you also might want to try lovingdvd's settings, i found them really close to my personal taste. Sourcery's are great to, but i like lovingdvd's slightly better. But that because of personal preference of liking a brighter slightly oversaturated settings... I wish some others would post settings but have not seen any new settings in a while...
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post #873 of 3237
9/29/06 at 4:10pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by DBailey View Post

auxili, you also might want to try lovingdvd's settings, i found them really close to my personal taste. Sourcery's are great to, but i like lovingdvd's slightly better. But that because of personal preference of liking a brighter slightly oversaturated settings... I wish some others would post settings but have not seen any new settings in a while...


I found LovingDvd's settings a great starting place for setting my 60A2000.

But the thing about posting TV settings is each TV, and their various sources are all a little different.

Using LovingDvd's settings, the Monster/ISF HDTV calibration DVD, the THX optimization tests (found on THX mastered DVDs), and black & white programing on all inputs, I have pretty much gotten my set looking the way I am happiest.

But I've found that the same setings simply don't work for diiferent inputs. I even found that when I came to use the "bypass", on my cablebox (which BTW, added even more great quality to the PQ), I needed to make a few additional adjustments to that input.

By all means use someone, like LovingDVD'd settings, but use lots of B&W, on all inputs, and your own preferences ultimately, to get the picture that you love the best.

I should also say that I resisted, for some time, going to "warm 1". or "warm2", because I thought it was too reddish. But when so many folks said that it really brought the picture temp closest to 6500, I set it to warm2. and adjusted all from that point. Now I am very happy with the very natural colors, particularly in HD.
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post #874 of 3237
9/29/06 at 5:33pm
You guys keep ignoring the fact that due to sample to sample variations (including the variability of video signal sources) that what settings (in both the user and service menus) are best with one set are different on other sets.
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post #875 of 3237
9/30/06 at 11:42am
Can anyone tell me where I would tame down green over-saturation in the service menu? I have no clue what menu it is.
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post #876 of 3237
10/1/06 at 11:46am
What does black corrector actually do? What change does it make in the service menu? I changed the gamma setting to low for better shadow detail which made the blacks less inky. I then changed the black corrector to low and it really darkened the blacks while letting me keep the same brightness level in my THX Optimizer setup menu. So it seems that I can get a better gamma setting for shadow detail and have inky blacks too. Has anybody else tried these settings?
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post #877 of 3237
10/1/06 at 1:10pm
Is it possible to provide a fine tune adjustment to the fan speed in the service menu? Perhaps stupid, but I'd like to bump the fan speed down a notch if possible.

See below for my reason:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8553393

Quote:
Originally Posted by TTFORUM View Post

Ok... so, I have a green blob and some greenness around the edges that goes away after the set warms up. See here:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...21#post8476121

Well, tonight we watched a movie and turned the lights down really low. I felt that the iris needed to go to min so that the TV didn't blind us. About 2/3 the way through the movie, I started noticing green undertones in the shadows on the movie. After the movie was over, I jumped to the auto program screen and sure enough the green blob and the green on the edges was visible. I turned the Iris back to auto 2 and about 10 minutes later the green had mostly faded away again.

Apparently, without the iris being open wide enough the LCOS chips must cool down enough to bring back the greenness... I am so disappointed right now. My wife was actually pretty much furious and declared that she "hates this stupid TV".

I need some serious, non-fanboy advice.

1) Keep the TV and live with it... ignore the green when it is there.
2) Go for yet ANOTHER exchange.
3) Say to h*** with SXRD and move on.

As a side noob question. If I get an ISF calibration, will I lose all my settings the first time the TV loses power or will it save the settings the ISF guys do?
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post #878 of 3237
10/1/06 at 2:06pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrlouie View Post

Can anyone tell me where I would tame down green over-saturation in the service menu? I have no clue what menu it is.

If what you are talking about is the fact that the Sony SXRD green color coordinates are way outside the standard color gamut - I'm quite sorry to report that there is absolutely no fix for this problem either in the user menu or the service menu. Frankly, many non-CRT sets have this problem and only a very few have the Color Management controls (usually in the user menu) to fix it.

The above is a different issue than color demodulator errors (Green Push), which usually aren't bad on Sonys, or color temperature/gray scale - which has been a problem (violet blacks, green haze) on these.
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post #879 of 3237
10/2/06 at 11:00am
I'm not sure. I simply had a member on the owner's thread tell me that it sounded like I had some green push and to compensate for it in the service menu. So I was just trying to figure out how to experiment with it.
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post #880 of 3237
10/2/06 at 5:27pm
I have posted a link in the main A2000 thread discussing my own green discoloration issues... if anyone has any idea how to fix/alleviate the problem, please let me know. I hope that davehancock is wrong, but I highly doubt he is...

Link to other thread
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post #881 of 3237
10/2/06 at 5:40pm
Has anyone had their set ISF calibrated yet ? If so, what settings did you have before the calibration and was the results what you had hoped for ? Thanks
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post #882 of 3237
10/3/06 at 1:21am
Quote:
Originally Posted by lenbo View Post

Has anyone had their set ISF calibrated yet ? If so, what settings did you have before the calibration and was the results what you had hoped for ? Thanks

I'm having mine done in a week.

PQ is fine, no haze, no blob.. but I did notice a clockwise tilt to the picture. In fact, it even seems info is lost vertically displayed at 1080i on the right side of the screen because of the tilt.

I used WGW's post to tweak the panel from "B" to "C" & noticed the tilt was better until I looked at the left side of the screen. Same problem, different area of screen.

Don't know if my ISF tech can/will fix the tilt when he comes over next week.

BTW, this is my second SXRD, first A2000 had a green haze & an August build date. The one I got now is a June build date.
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post #883 of 3237
10/3/06 at 8:09am
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnFP View Post

I have posted a link in the main A2000 thread discussing my own green discoloration issues... if anyone has any idea how to fix/alleviate the problem, please let me know. I hope that davehancock is wrong, but I highly doubt he is...

Link to other thread

I've sort of responded to this on the BIG A2000 Thread
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post #884 of 3237
10/3/06 at 2:08pm
I need help with this LPF thing.

I got into the service menu no problem, but then when I looked for the "WEM SERVICE" and "108 sharp xspp_ccp.spf" menus they were nowhere to be found. There was nothing that even came close to this.

Please help me find this because I really want to get in and make sure the LPF is set correctly.
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post #885 of 3237
10/3/06 at 2:25pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Krammer1 View Post

I used WGW's post to tweak the panel from "B" to "C" & noticed the tilt was better until I looked at the left side of the screen. Same problem, different area of screen.

Don't know if my ISF tech can/will fix the tilt when he comes over next week.

If I recall correctly, WGW's post really outlined the Sony service procedure for this (it involves moving wedges). That is all that really can be done, though someone noted that putting a wedge under a corner of the cabinet would stress the cabinet just enough to "tweak" the tilt. The problem is that "tilt" is strictly mechanical, so there are no service menu adjustments for it. Though your ISF guy could likely do the same thing that you did before, he is unlikely to be able to do much beyond that.
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post #886 of 3237
10/4/06 at 7:14am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Imp View Post

I need help with this LPF thing.

I got into the service menu no problem, but then when I looked for the "WEM SERVICE" and "108 sharp xspp_ccp.spf" menus they were nowhere to be found. There was nothing that even came close to this.

Please help me find this because I really want to get in and make sure the LPF is set correctly.

The directions in the FAQ on the first page are pretty exact. Make sure you are pushing the "Jump" button to get to the correct menu.
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post #887 of 3237
10/4/06 at 2:53pm
Dang, I thought if i used a res to compensate for overscan, I'd be able to get close to 1080p @ 60Hz on my PC with reasonable sharpness, and for PS3 I wouldn't need to worry as overscan is not really as big of a deal as it is on a PC.

I know PC support isn't a strong suit, but I notice many are tweaking from 1080i30?

But for PS3, AVBill and most others agree I should be good for 60 or 30Hz as well?

I already know it will be an uphill battle for me with my radeon's. But dang I'm hoping for 60 or 59.97 Hertz or something like that, at 1814*1040 or whatever the heck will work.

I've thought about getting a Westy 37"W3 for PC as I knew about the support. But I hope I won't have too many other sacrifices. ie. PS3, failure of MS to come out with a digital 1080p connection...
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post #888 of 3237
10/4/06 at 6:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rlb View Post

Following is an e-mail sent today by Rodolfo La Maestro, a prolific writer on TV technology, to an HDTV Tips List:

Dave,

Thanks for your appreciation for my work.

There is nothing on the published specs on the available Sony products that
highlight the features you said (HDMI 1.3, Deep color, xvYCC international
standard, etc).

The Bravo line you mentioned is not from Sony, but from Premium
Distribution, which markets A/V products under the H&B brand.

Let us do some reasoning.

The HDMI 1.3 spec was released on June 22 (just 3 months ago):

http://www.hdmi.org/press/pr/pr_20060622.asp

The manufacturing of 1.3 compliant HDMI chips could only happen after that,
and it takes time, even to SI itself.

Next after that, products (TVs, etc) could only implement 1.3 features using
a 1.3 chip to receive the enhanced signals.

Specifically, the deep color and xvYCC color space international standard
features of 1.3 could be seen on a 1.3 compliant HDTV that has implemented
such features, but such image sources have to become available.

The PS3 announced later in November (if the wind blows in the right
direction) is expected to use 1.3, and other computer sources are among
those sources with such potential, no other consumer sources have
implemented such features but they are expected to gradually appear in the
market, not only for games and computers.

Sony introduced a prototype with such features, the 82" Bravia LCD panel, at
CES in Jan 06:

http://www.sony.net/SonyInfo/News/Pr...02E/index.html

But that does not mean that all the Bravias have it, nor the new SXRDs
(announced in June for fall availability); obviously a set released before
June 22 could not even have a 1.3 chip if the spec was just released that
day, it will take time for chips and products to appear.

On the personal tone, I do not know what the AVS forum says, I do not help
on the AVS forum any longer (for about 5/6 years already, back when it just
started) for personal reasons.

However, with patience and lots of time it might be a good source of
information on specific products when coming from the actual owners, weeding
out tons of opinion and personal attacks.

If I would be seriously looking into 1.3 capabilities and features, I would
not buy any product claiming 1.3 features that does not show it passed the
Simplay Lab tests, it is one tool one could have to be on the safe side.

Best Regards,

Rodolfo La Maestra

Thanks for the great insight - question - if the spec was just released - why would the ps3 have it and not the xbr2's? The xbr2's are only a few months at best ahead of the ps3. do you know what i mean? why woukld a 1.3 chip be ready and installed for the ps3 in november and not the 200o's or the xbr2's?
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post #889 of 3237
10/4/06 at 7:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTV5.1 View Post

Thanks for the great insight - question - if the spec was just released - why would the ps3 have it and not the xbr2's? The xbr2's are only a few months at best ahead of the ps3. do you know what i mean? why woukld a 1.3 chip be ready and installed for the ps3 in november and not the 200o's or the xbr2's?

First, they are different chips: one is generating the video (PS3), and the other is receiving and processing the video (XBR2). I suspect that the processing chip is a lot more complex (takes longer to develop) than the generating chip. Further, the whole video chain in the display needs to be deep color/new color space capable.

Second, a few months can make a huge difference.

P.S. I'll bet the PS2 will have deep color and new space only for gaming function - not for DVDs. The DVDs have to support that too - and it is not likely that they will really support the new color space.
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post #890 of 3237
10/4/06 at 7:55pm
So is everyone just assuming that the PS3's Blu-Ray player is going to deliver a great picture just because it's BD? Consoles in the past have been lousy DVD players. Just food for thought. I haven't heard any reports on the BD playback quality of the PS3. I guess Sony wouldn't stake the entire format's fate on the PS3 if they weren't going to go all-out on it.

PS...I just ordered my 60a2000!
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post #891 of 3237
10/4/06 at 8:28pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cedar1079 View Post

The directions in the FAQ on the first page are pretty exact. Make sure you are pushing the "Jump" button to get to the correct menu.

Yeah, that was my screwup. When I read the word jump, for some reason I thought that meant using the 2 button to jump. I then noticed there was an actual jump button on the remote.

Anyway, I got in and my LPF setting was at 6 so I was good.
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post #892 of 3237
10/4/06 at 10:13pm
I have a couple of questions.

First has to do with the Sharpness setting. I see a lot of you like to set it at 30, but then when you read CNET's review, they say to set it at 50. Why the big difference and which is truly better?

Second, has to do with the material upconverting to 1080p through the set's scaler. No matter how many times someone tries explaining this to me, I just don't seem to get it. How exactly can 480i SD be upconverted to 1080p? I'm watching regular 480i programming and that is nowhere near looking like 1080p. If someone can actually explain this to me clearly, I would be grateful.
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post #893 of 3237
10/5/06 at 5:12am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Imp View Post

I have a couple of questions.
Second, has to do with the material upconverting to 1080p through the set's scaler. No matter how many times someone tries explaining this to me, I just don't seem to get it. How exactly can 480i SD be upconverted to 1080p? I'm watching regular 480i programming and that is nowhere near looking like 1080p. If someone can actually explain this to me clearly, I would be grateful.

The p conversion is where the A2000 takes the alternating lines (odd and even) and displays them both at the same time (progressive). The 1080 conversion is where the "missing" information is interpolated (interpreted) based on the existing information.

It does not and is not supposed to look as good as true 1080p. However it is supposed to (in theory) look better than the original 480i signal.
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post #894 of 3237
10/5/06 at 8:38am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kinglerch View Post

The p conversion is where the A2000 takes the alternating lines (odd and even) and displays them both at the same time (progressive). The 1080 conversion is where the "missing" information is interpolated (interpreted) based on the existing information.

It does not and is not supposed to look as good as true 1080p. However it is supposed to (in theory) look better than the original 480i signal.

Thank you sir. That was much clearer and easier to understand than just reading people say "it upconverts all resolutions to 1080p." To people like me that don't understand this stuff very well, that last statement tells us that lowly 480i will be made to look great on this set, which is the furthest thing from the truth.

I have since deleted 480i from my STB and left 480p in because that looks much better than what the set can do for the 480i signal. So much for the set's scaler being better than the STB's in this case.
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post #895 of 3237
10/5/06 at 12:13pm
To the guy who was helping me re HDMI/Dolby Digital settings on the BH box I got this from the XBR2 thread I'm having my set delivered Saturday from Sound Advice and I'll confirm it than:


Hi, so the XBR2 does allow for DD 5.1 passthrough? (I know Sammy HLS only allow for 2.0)

Please confirm,


Thank you,


Dresden



Yes, based on my experience. My Yamaha RX-V1600 is showing 5.1 from the XBR2
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post #896 of 3237
10/5/06 at 12:24pm
Hello All:

I recently purchased the A2000 as a replacement for the Samsung 61 in. 87 series DLP. I am one of those people who can frequently see the rainbow effect...Very annoying. Besides, I don't like to have my eye be responsible for being a filter and generating the picture... Anyway, I would like to note that my A2000 looks horrible compared the DLP in every case. I am hoping that this A2000 in not representative of the SXRD. I am experiencing the following even after trying several recommended video adjustments:

1. Picture seems hazy and not sharp. This is apparent in the letterings of any menu text (the television menu, cable DVR menu, etc).
2. SD is like everyone says -- very poor, especially compared to the DLP.
3. I do see from time to time a very green picture.
4. On each side of the television when in 4:3 mode under SD or in normal mode in HD, there are green bars going down the sides of the TV. On either side of the green bar, I can see blue on one side and red on another...I am assuming this is a convergence issue.
5. VS DLP. CNET says contrast and brightness is similar to DLP. I disagree. Although adequate, the SXRD is nowhere near as bright as the DLP...Even after playing around with the various picture adjustments.

In closing, I just got this set a few days ago. I have no interest in exchanging this set with the reseller for I have exchanged 3 DLP's (rainbow issue and shipping damage) prior to receiving the A2000 (in hopes of getting good quality for the money). Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can be wrong with the A2000 and why it is not stacking up to the DLP? Please note that I have NO interest in having to professionally calibrating the TV as a solution to the problem. If this TV can't look reasonable out of the box, then what good is it?

Please help.

Best Regards,

Brad
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post #897 of 3237
10/5/06 at 12:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by longstrb View Post

Hello All:

I recently purchased the A2000 as a replacement for the Samsung 61 in. 87 series DLP. I am one of those people who can frequently see the rainbow effect...Very annoying. Besides, I don't like to have my eye be responsible for being a filter and generating the picture... Anyway, I would like to note that my A2000 looks horrible compared the DLP in every case. I am hoping that this A2000 in not representative of the SXRD. I am experiencing the following even after trying several recommended video adjustments:

1. Picture seems hazy and not sharp. This is apparent in the letterings of any menu text (the television menu, cable DVR menu, etc).
2. SD is like everyone says -- very poor, especially compared to the DLP.
3. I do see from time to time a very green picture.
4. On each side of the television when in 4:3 mode under SD or in normal mode in HD, there are green bars going down the sides of the TV. On either side of the green bar, I can see blue on one side and red on another...I am assuming this is a convergence issue.
5. VS DLP. CNET says contrast and brightness is similar to DLP. I disagree. Although adequate, the SXRD is nowhere near as bright as the DLP...Even after playing around with the various picture adjustments.

In closing, I just got this set a few days ago. I have no interest in exchanging this set with the reseller for I have exchanged 3 DLP's (rainbow issue and shipping damage) prior to receiving the A2000 (in hopes of getting good quality for the money). Does anyone have any suggestions as to what can be wrong with the A2000 and why it is not stacking up to the DLP? Please note that I have NO interest in having to professionally calibrating the TV as a solution to the problem. If this TV can't look reasonable out of the box, then what good is it?

Please help.

Best Regards,

Brad

Before buying I carefully compared the A-2000, Toshiba 1080p and Samsung 1080p at HH Gregg. They were all in a row. All 3 had very nice PQ, but somewhat differerent strengths and weaknesses. The A-2000 certainly held its own against the other 2.

(1) The Samsung DLP is SUPER SHARP..in fact regarded as TOO sharp by many reviewers. The A-2000 does have a softer overall PQ, but far less noise in the picture. I find the A-2000 to be quite detailed on good shows, but poorer quality shows or sources can tend to look soft.

(2) Not sure about SD...I have found it to look pretty poor on all large TV's including the Toshiba 1080P DLP I tried, and returned due to rainbow effect.

(3) Green picture may be source related since you say 'from time to time'.

(4) You are supposed to have Black bars down the sides , not green! This sounds like a serious problem. Convergence may be bad.

(5) As for brightness, I am glad the Sony is not as bright as the Samsung. The Samsung will put your eyes out in a dark room...not good..and no good way to tame it down.

My A-2000 looks well beyond 'reasonable' out of the box. It borders on stunning on HD-DVD, or a really good HD show. SD is pretty poor...but I pretty much expected that. My only complaint is it shows some color uniformity issues. DLP's are out for me due to rainbows, but I did like the PQ on the Toshiba 1080p. I don't find the SXRD PQ to be notably inferior, or superior to the Toshiba. The SXRD is more able to render a 'film like' look when viewing a movie though. The Toshiba looked more 'TV like' with excess sharpness and brightness , and overly cool color temp even when set to warm.
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post #898 of 3237
10/5/06 at 12:42pm
Sorry wrong thread
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post #899 of 3237
10/5/06 at 1:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by AlanBuck View Post

Before buying I carefully compared the A-2000, Toshiba 1080p and Samsung 1080p at HH Gregg. They were all in a row. All 3 had very nice PQ, but somewhat differerent strengths and weaknesses. The A-2000 certainly held its own against the other 2.

(1) The Samsung DLP is SUPER SHARP..in fact regarded as TOO sharp by many reviewers. The A-2000 does have a softer overall PQ, but far less noise in the picture. I find the A-2000 to be quite detailed on good shows, but poorer quality shows or sources can tend to look soft.

(2) Not sure about SD...I have found it to look pretty poor on all large TV's including the Toshiba 1080P DLP I tried, and returned due to rainbow effect.

(3) Green picture may be source related since you say 'from time to time'.

(4) You are supposed to have Black bars down the sides , not green! This sounds like a serious problem. Convergence may be bad.

(5) As for brightness, I am glad the Sony is not as bright as the Samsung. The Samsung will put your eyes out in a dark room...not good..and no good way to tame it down.

My A-2000 looks well beyond 'reasonable' out of the box. It borders on stunning on HD-DVD, or a really good HD show. SD is pretty poor...but I pretty much expected that. My only complaint is it shows some color uniformity issues. DLP's are out for me due to rainbows, but I did like the PQ on the Toshiba 1080p. I don't find the SXRD PQ to be notably inferior, or superior to the Toshiba. The SXRD is more able to render a 'film like' look when viewing a movie though. The Toshiba looked more 'TV like' with excess sharpness and brightness , and overly cool color temp even when set to warm.

Hello AlanBuck:

Let me clarify green bars...They are about 1/16 or 1/32 of an inch in width. The are slightly visible from viewing distance. I was thinking that maybe the convergence is off and that is way I see green in the picture itself.

I noticed a few scuffs on the top and the front of the bezel. They can only be seen when looking at the TV from an angle. Do you see anything like this on your set?

Finally, I guess I am steering towards getting the TV serviced. I am sure they can tell me whats normal and what is not. In terms of the DLP brightness, I do agree with you that it can give you a headache. I had to turn it down a bit. I have to tell you that if the color wheel didn't exist and DLP produced a true 1080p (i.e. not using the wabulation method), I would lean more towards that picture. I got use to the sharpness the few weeks I had it...That is way I feel a bit ripped off with the SXRD. Do you have any other suggestions?

Best Regards,

Brad
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post #900 of 3237
10/5/06 at 1:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Imp View Post

I have since deleted 480i from my STB and left 480p in because that looks much better than what the set can do for the 480i signal. So much for the set's scaler being better than the STB's in this case.

In this case you are seeing your STB has a better deinterlacer than the A2000 (i->p) although you are still using the A2000 upscaling capability (480->1080). You usually have to test each output option (480i, 480p, 720p, 1080i, 1080p) to find the best result. Sometimes the box will be better, sometimes the A2000. The STB being better is not uncommon.
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