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Shelton Art Deco Theatre

post #1 of 463
Thread Starter 

I've been dreaming of my home theater since I was about 19 years old. I'm now 33 and I've gone from dreaming to building (Since I haven't actively been engaged in building my theater I've more or less been a lurker for years and just recently joined -- primarily due to green glue, I'll get to that part later.)

For the most part I had planned to simply do it all in stages, a little bit here a little bit there as we had extra money that "The Boss" (AKA my wife) would allow me to divert to my equipment or whatever. For the last 9 years my system has consisted of a set of Bose Acoustimass Vs (a gift), a Denon AVR-2600 (couldn't afford Dolby Digital at the time so I've been married to built-in decoders in DVD players which is harder to find these days) and my 36" Sony Vega (non-HD). Then last year before NCAA football started my wife (bless her heart) asked what it would take to put together an entry level projector system in our bonus room (we built the house and that has always been slated for the theater, 22' x 18'). I'm the buy quality up front, cry once, enjoy forever mindset so it was hard for me to not want to spend $5k-$10k on a projector for example. But when you get a green light like that you change priorities pretty fast

With a little shopping around I ended up with the Optoma H31, a 9' screen, our local cable HD DVR, new DVD player, Onkyo (piece of crap) 5.1 receiver and moved my Bose upstairs. The picture was AWESOME!! I was absolutely stoked. Wish I had pictures of our temporary theater with studs, cast off carpet, 15 year old couch, etc but when we cleaned it out to drywall I never assumed it wouldn't go back

My wife was pleasantly surprised by how fantastic football was and we really enjoyed our setup for the last year -- the Orange Bowl party was excellent.

I'll post more in a bit, I want to start downloading some pictures to post.

post #2 of 463
Thanks for the read... I can' t believe your wife watches football... and college at that! Looking forward to some pics.
post #3 of 463
Thread Starter 
Thanks! Yes, I am lucky to have such a great wife. She's more or less given the blessing for a lot of the things I've wanted to do.

Here's a quick list of what will go into the theater:
  • Optoma H31 480p 16x9 projector
  • 9' screen (cut from drop down and mounted to frame on wall)
  • Art deco column and header architecture
  • Wet bar with sink, pop machine, popcorn machine, and microwave
  • Aperion Audio 633T towers, 634VAC center, 534 Dipole surrounds (3 for 6.1), and Velodyne DLS-4000R sub
  • Denon AVR3806
  • Panasonic DV-588A-s DVD/CD/DVD-Audio/SACD
  • Motorolla HD PVR (from Cableone, I hate it and look forward to HD Tivo someday)
  • Monster PowerCenter Reference HTS-3500-MKII
  • Network Patch Panel
  • HP 10/100 16x Network Switch
  • Natuzzi Leather Sectional
  • 4 Player Mame Machine (converted from Simpsons arcade console)
  • Harmony 659 Remote -- I LOVE this thing, it's great to sit down, press one button and have my light dim (I only had a single incandesent in the single at the time) and projector fire up, etc and then be able to control everything else at the same time. Took me about 4 weeks to tweak it just right but now you'd have to pull it from my cold dead hands before I'd give it up!!

Here's a list of what I'll be doing (or have already done):
  • Wire for sconces on Lutron IR Maestro (4 sconces -- 2 on wall, 2 on columns)
  • Wire for canned lights and directional light above screen header connected to separate Lutron IR Maestro
  • Hang two layers of 5/8 drywall with green glue between on all walls and ceiling
  • Replaced the door with solid core door (note to others using green glue -- do this BEFORE putting drywall in, wish I had, was way harder after)
  • Install closet shelving and base trim as well as door and window casings and headers
  • Design and Build Architectural Art Deco Screen columns, header and Art Deco Fan (Hired a decorator for the colors I go blank on colors)
  • Paint (3 colors, 4 different gloss levels, about 6 different combinations in all), I'll spray what I can and roll/brush the rest
  • Lay tile under and in front of wet bar
  • Countertop granite tile
  • Cherry cabinets (modern styling to fit with Art Deco theme) -- these are done by a cabinet company a friend of mine owns
  • Carpet (hired out)
  • Replace stock bathroom fan in equipment closet with quiet fan and pipe into closet as well as projector hosing
  • Build custom equipment closet rack and install components
  • Make black velvet drapes
  • Velcro the black out vinyl liner (which normally goes behind the drapes) directly to the wall around the window so it will be totally black

I've downloaded my photos, I'll see if I can't get a few that shows how far I've gotten at this point. Then I'll throw in a bit of how did I come up with the design followed by what I've learned so far

post #4 of 463
Congratulations on getting the green light. Sounds like your room is going to be an Art Deco masterpiece and I can't wait to see how it turns out.
post #5 of 463
Thread Starter 
My wife said I should include a quick "who am I" because she's read several on other theater building threads.

I'm a firmware engineer at a local tech company. My hobbies are home theaters (of course), woodworking, hiking, race walking (half-marathons are my favorite), and travel (I inherited that one from my wife). I've more or less been in school since I was 4 and hope to finish my PhD in about 4 years. One option is to become a professor at a local university.

4 years ago we designed our house (with theater in mind) and left that room unfinished when it was built. We plan to stay in it until retirement more or less and hope the theater will not only be fun for me but also for the kids as they get older -- kind of the, "if they're at my house having fun then I know where they are and who they're with," mentality.

I've always dreamed that my theater would be as close to an old style theater as possible. If I had a lot more money I'd be spending more time on the finer details (like art deco floor patterns made out of several carpets, granite patterns on the back splash, a wrought iron pattern on the back of the door, and on, and on) but, I live in the world of the real and budgets are very real. Though I must say that thanks to decreasing costs in components and increasing quality (especially in the projector arena -- I thought I'd have to spend at least $15k when I started reading HT Mag all those years ago). My budget has thankfully gone from a dreamed up (but never approved by "The Boss") $50k to about $16k or so. I'm pretty handy on the internet and have snagged some excellent online prices. Plus, since I have a full size wood shop in my 3rd garage I'm able to do most of the work myself and figure I've saved about $10k there as well.

post #6 of 463
Thread Starter 
So this isn't when the theater actually began (it starts in your head right? you know, with the little voices that tell you that you must build it or you will never be happy), but it is where the construction technically began This is our lot where our house was built (it ends on the right near the lump along the ground. That was in 2002.

Here's a couple of shots of my favorite part of the room -- the equipment closet. I even had them install a bathroom fan for cooling the room I'll definitely be replacing it, it's too loud (I think I read people liked the Panasonic Quiet fans) and I'd need it to be strong enough to pull air from both the closet and the projector box, I'll probably ask for help on that separately.

Another cool shot is that of the custom built floor joists. They're stiffer and have more mass than the engineered kind (we had to do that because the room was so large above the garage, kind of a nice benefit -- I didn't ask how much extra it cost so it feels more "free" that way ).

post #7 of 463
Thread Starter 
For the next 4 years the room more or less was studs with a single 1/2" layer on the ceiling to hold the blown insulation in the attic. The outside walls (north wall where the screen goes and west wall with the window) also had blown insulation in them.

Finally, after 3 years I began to see a bit of light at the end of the tunnel when my wife asked what it would take to put in an entry level projection system. $1800 later (for Optoma H31, 100" screen, onkyo 75w 6.1 receiver, dvd player and velodyne dls-4000r sub) I was in business. Football never looked so good. Even on a 480p projector it was fantastic!!

Wish I had pictures of the room before I took everything out for drywall but I never expected to not be putting stuff back. Basically I had finally found the soundproofing solution I wanted to go with and began scheduling the drywall installation (waiting does not save money here -- the building boom is ridiculous right now and every 2 months things go up 5-20%, yes, that's right -- including my dang taxes -- almost a 50% increase every year for the past 3 years). Okay, sorry for the tangent, back to HT.

After reading here about how well green glue was working for people and it would cost the same to do 4 walls and a ceiling as just 2 walls (well, without drywall and labor added in, even with that it's still cheaper), I was ready to go.

Here's the room after my brother and I spent a weekend doing the electrical. That consisted of moving all the boxes out to support 1-1/4" wall thickness, adding cables and switch for sconces, moving boxes up on the wall for the cabinets going in for the wetbar, adding a light in the hallway for the "Theatre" art deco sign, adding a phone line, network line to adjoining bedroom, running a dedicated 20amp line from the circuit box to the equipment closet for just the equipment, taking the fan off the 20amp circuit in the room (which the sub would be on) and puting it on the kids 15amp room circuit and adding a light line and switch in the regular closet. Oh, and I forgot to mention running the speaker/sub cables in the attic while it was 130 degrees up there. Did you know you can actually burn your hands on the studs while you hold on like a monkey trying to run the cable? I have never sweated so much in such a short time in my life!! I had to come out every 10 minutes or so because my head would start to ache -- didn't want to get heat exhaustion or worse up there!!

Oh, I also spent the next 3-4 days running the insulation in the south and east wall as they were interior walls and weren't blown.

West wall (window wall):

North wall (where screen, sconces, and Art Deco architecture will go -- imagine how much 46 sheets of 5/8 4x12 drywall weighs!!):

East wall (wet bar -- cabinets along the bottom, on the left will be a small fridge below, 8 head soda fountain dispenser up top, popcorn machine, then sink with cabinets above the sink area):

South wall (regular closet, and equipment closet):

post #8 of 463
I have those "W" shape floor joists as well in my house. My HT is 17 ft wide and it is apparently too long of a span for engineered joists (shaped like an "I" in cross section). So I don't have to deal with those stupid teleposts. Do it once, do it well. That's what mama always sez.

have fun. sounds like it gonna be an amazing looking room.
post #9 of 463
Shelton?? My mothers maiden name is Shelton. Got any relation in Kansas???

post #10 of 463
Thread Starter 
Not directly, but if you go back about 6 generations we more or less all came from England through a Ralph Shelton. Ever do any family history, I have a bunch, if you have any I bet we could get the connection. Even say your Grandparent's name and Great Grandparent's name might do it...

post #11 of 463
Thread Starter 
I think I'll go ahead and post my learning experiences after each photo section in case anyone is interested in what I've done wrong or what I would probably do different to help them with their own theater construction.
  1. Have an actual drawn up plan. I initially thought I only had a couple of things to do and so why bother with a layout, right? Well my brother helped me and refused to do a single thing without the plan. Turns out he was WAY right. I was surprised by how many things we actually ended up writing down and how many decisions I had to make for wiring.
  2. If you have a wetbar and are thinking about a disposal -- don't forget the switch They do have in sink switches if you forget...
  3. If you have an attic you'll be crawling through be sure to try doing it either in cooler weather or early morning. I about died crawling around up there in 130 degree heat!
  4. Phone cable (cat3) only goes to 10MB/s versus Cat5e goes to 100MB and faster. Take the time to buy the right stuff.
  5. Plastic conduit is CHEAP!! Man I wish I had run some under my floor before the garage ceiling went in -- I wouldn't have even bothered with the stupid attic if I had had access to the floor.
  6. One of my walls had blown insulation (it backed up against the 3rd garage attic). I found I could just poke a piece of conduit through the insulation to put the wiring through -- it was a piece of cake! In fact, I decided for the speaker wires to just wait until I determine their final location (might move the screen over depending on how the room "feels" once I get my cabinets in). Once I know where they'll go I'll just drill a hole and poke some fish tape through and have my brother attach the cable on the other side.
  7. Insulation is horrible on your lungs -- wear a dust mask. If you can stand it wear a long sleeve shirt too, it really itches as well.
  8. Look into blowing the insulation in -- you'll get more in there and I would guess it's easier to install. The 16" on center stud spaces were a piece of cake, it was all of the ones that were half that or whatever that took all my time up.
  9. When I was looking into having to spend $200 or more on the Lutron Spacer system because I wanted both my canned lights and my sconces on separate IR controllers (IR Maestro says not made for multiple switch setups) I was bummed until I found out how the Spacer system works. Basically you get 4 favorite settings instead of 1 but all the switches still respond to the same signal from the remote, you just set different "favorites" for each level for each light setup. Hey, that can work for the Maestro as well. Instead of turning my lights off right away, I'll have it dim the cans a lot and the sconces a little, then I'll have a hot button on my remote to turn them off before I press play. Excellent!! Oh, and $70 for 2 IR Maestros is way cheaper
post #12 of 463
Thread Starter 
This was done about two weeks ago. In fact, this was what more or less kick started the theater construction into full throttle I was just going to do the soundproofing (green glue, 2x5/8 drywall and solid core door) when after spending 3 days getting all of the crap out of the room (it became quite the storage dump) with the carpet (cast off from a friend) being the worst part my wife looked at me and said, "get this room done!" "I'm not doing this ever again!"

Hee, hee -- like candy to my ears

Sooo...after putting together a rudimentary budget and timeline (I'm shooting for end of August) I started slamming it out. The first part of course was doing the drawings for the screen architecture -- I basically checked out all the books on Art Deco from the library and went through and marked each page that caught my eye. After that I went through again and let my mind just start putting certain pieces together and it all evolved into the plan I have now.

So I schedule the drywall installation and take the day off to do the green glue. We hung both layers with the glue included in 10 hours!! Those guys were awesome. As I would put glue down on a sheet they'd be off measuring and cutting the next piece. It was like perfect clockwork.

It was so intense and constant that I never had time to stop and get a good shot of what it looked like getting it up, I only have a shot of what it looks like now that it's done (kind of a bummer).

Green glue before:

Green glue after:

West wall:

North wall:

East wall:

post #13 of 463
Thread Starter 
There are a few things that I can pass on to those about to try this:
  • Tim at Audio Alloy suggested leaving a 1-2 inch space around the edge of the board free of glue so the installers don't get their hands in it. I think this was what kept things really clean.
  • Wear clothing you don't mind throwing out when you're done. That green glue stuff is nasty to get off clothes, I just dumped mine in the garbage -- no way was I risking putting them in the washer with other clothes.
  • Wash the knife you cut the top off of the tube with right away. Mine's covered in the glue and I think it's more or less a lost cause at this point.
  • Home Depot sells self adhesive carpet plastic you can put down on the carpet -- this saved our carpet for sure. Was great for mud and texture cleanup as well.
  • Precut the holes for where your wires (e.g. network, cable, speakers, etc) come out of the wall so you don't get glue all over them.
  • Leave long wires like speaker, network, coax out of the box in a long line. That way you precut the hole and then feed the cables through. Otherwise the installer may use the rotozip on the box and if they miss they can make your nice 10' of extra cable for your closet about 1' (happened in my family room when I built the house originally).
  • Hang your solid core door first!! That way they can run drywall right up to the jambs and you have no gaps. I forgot and hung it after and had to cut out the opening to fit the shims and new door in.
  • If it's too late and you've had to cut around the door and now there's a gap you can fill the space with joint compound. They make a compound that's more dense than normal -- I think my installer called it "hot mud". If you can, put some sort of vapor barier around the jamb so the water doesn't transfer to the jamb and warp it (I couldn't open the door the next morning). Also, the best way to get the mud into the gap is to use a pastry bag with the biggest cap on (so you can stick the cap into the gap and by squeezing the bag force it all the way into the hole).
post #14 of 463
Great thread, Mike! I especially like your introduction/"About Me" post, and bullet list of tips after each step in the process.. Great ideas!

FYI, the manufactured floor trusses (as well as roof trusses) are very common. I remember being surprised shopping for houses and seeing the I-beam trusses, since I had only ever built and used manufactured (did construction for a number of years, since I was 13). The only way to go, IMO.

Keep up the great work!
post #15 of 463
Thread Starter 
Thanks! I figure since I'm learning some things the hard way, why not share them with those that will follow -- that's how I've learned most of my stuff

Now if I could just figure out how to get my work to let me take a few weeks off for free

post #16 of 463
Good tips in this thread. Thanks!
post #17 of 463
Thread Starter 
As a woodworker this is the fun part for me Coping joints for the baseboards is cool, I'll post some pointers in my what I learned post after this one.

First of all, I actually managed to snag a little help on this part of the project (most of this is a one man show). My oldest helped me take measurements as well as help hold long pieces of MDF as I ran it through the tablesaw.

Here's a little shot of us after the closet shelving was done (I'm the one on the left):

She looks kind of dangerous with that nail gun, huh? No worries, she mostly was my holder, I did all the dangerous nailing (like trying to stick a 15ga nail in my hand -- twice on the same spot!! Fortunately I failed both times).

Oh yeah, I also installed the new door at this point:

50 points to the person who sees what's wrong with that picture. What's that you say? The bottom is bigger than the top? Well, that's kind of weird. What's that, how do you fit a trapezoid into a rectangular hole? Well -- YOU DON'T!! Seriously, I spent about 10 minutes trying to figure out why this stupid door wouldn't fit in the hole!! Then finally I took a tape measure to the top and bottom (it had looked a little odd at first but I couldn't believe it would be wrong -- wrong!). Yep, 37" at the top, 38" at the bottom. Nice. Well, I hated the metal threshold anyway so 4 screws later it was in the trash! I'll make a wood one after I find out how the carpet guy would like it setup. Oh, and I had to cut back my gg drywall in order to get the shims in (grrr ... like I said in my early posting, install door first, drywall/gg 2nd).

Here's a shot of the mess I make as I build things (I need to get more of these shots they're way fun but I'm usually sweating, hurting, tired, thirsty, hungry, and ready to swear and the last thing that enters my mind is "oh, I should take a picture of this moment to remember it forever" -- maybe I could talk my wife into doing that):

Okay, now for the actual shots of the trim.



Equipment closet:

post #18 of 463
Thread Starter 

I forgot to tell a funny story about building the closet shelving. Of course most of my "I built this" experiences have funny stories, though they're more like the Three Stooges stories ....

Anyway, it all started with trying to utilize as much space as possible in the storage closet. Our hall closet has 21" shelves that run the full length and it's awesome. My wife asked if I could make them tall enough for the bins she stores Christmas and clothing items in and I said, "of course I can". Fortunately for me I've installed shelving before and realize that once you get even one shelf in (generally) you can no longer get the other shelves in the closet to install them (no room to rotate). So I stacked them all in the bottom in reverse order (the top shelf is only 16" so you can stick things on top due to the smaller opening from the jamb). So far so good. Then I put up the first cleat hang the first shelf, the side cleats and take a look. Not bad, time for the next shelf. The second shelf is wider of course and felt like it could use more support on the side cleats than I originally put in. Hmmm, okay I'll run a full length side cleat. So I hang all the cleats first (like before) and as I'm lifting the shelf I kid you not I'm focusing on sliding it perfectly up the wall (as to not ding it or peal off all the texture) and BAM! I run right into the cleats. I'm standing there with this 40lb shelf staring at what I've done. I about crap my pants!! I wiggle it around a bit and eventually I'm able to angle it down enough to just squeeze it past the cleats (the shelf bends a little too -- that helped). Whew. Problem solved.

Except now I have one shelf left, no way I'll squeeze that one in. So I hang the back cleat and stick the shelf on it. Then realize, how am I going to hold that up while I level and nail the side cleats? Normally you'd have someone help you right? Well, turns out at 1:00am in the morning no one's around to help you

I was SOOOOO tempted to wake my 8yr old and have her give me a hand but knew my wife would KILL me if she found out. (I didn't even give a second thought to waking my wife -- she's supporting me enough by letting me do it, no since in pressing my luck). So I stick a piece of wood under it and bend down to nail the cleat. It falls on my head and I get slammed to the floor. Then I left it up on my neck and I'm putting the adhesive on, leveling it and nailing it (at 16" off the floor on my knees in a ball practically) with a 40lb shelf on my head. Sheez!!

Ah well, never let it be said I wasn't dedicated


PS. Since my wife likes to read these let me point out that she does help quite a bit by watching all 4 children all night long after being with them all day long so I can work on this -- thanks love!!
post #19 of 463
Ah yes, the 3 Stooges stories.. nice one. One of mine was when I was building apartments, and nailing in the majority of nails on the exterior sheathing of the apartment. In order to move the ladder less (24' up or so), I would set the ladder, climb up, and shimmy the top of the ladder to the left a foot or so, then work my way across, and to the right a foot off center. The friction against the plywood held it in place. As you can imagine, at one point, the friction didn't hold as I stretched for that last nail...

So I started sliding to the right about 20' up, tossed my hammer to the ground, saw a window sill (no windows in yet), and rode the ladder toward the sill, before grabbing it. So I'm holding onto the sill with my arms, the ladder with my legs (at an extreme angle), so it doesn't go crashing down... My dad happened to be in the upstairs there, and I casually asked him to go outside and reset the ladder for me.. Of course, he laughed and knew exactly what had happened (he uses the same technique). That's the only time that happened, though.

Keep up the great work... it's great to have a helper! Another huge benefit is that it's a great bonding experience as well as a good way for them to learn "guy skills"... Same with teaching them to change flat tires, the oil, etc... I'm sure you'll do the same when the time comes.
post #20 of 463
Great thread. Keep up the good work!!!
post #21 of 463
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by miltimj View Post

Ah yes, the 3 Stooges stories.. nice one.
So I started sliding to the right about 20' up, tossed my hammer to the ground, saw a window sill (no windows in yet), and rode the ladder toward the sill, before grabbing it.

Wow!! That's pretty impressive. Glad you had someone there to help out. (Did you have to change your pants after you got down off the ladder -- I would have ).

Yep, with 4 girls I inted to teach them anything they want to know. They dig helping dad out in the garage, etc so I let them as much as my schedule will allow.

post #22 of 463
Thread Starter 
I just realized I never included a drawing of my screen columns and proscenium. The front and center speakers as well as the sub are also drawn in. I have a drawing from the designer that shows colors. I'll post that once I get it scanned.

post #23 of 463
wow, that screen wall is going to look awesome. i've always like the art deco theater look and hopefully someday will be able to build such a theater myself.

keep up the good work with the theater and keep posting those useful tips.

post #24 of 463
Thread Starter 
Thanks! I will

Oh, and I managed to get a few great tips on spray painting from a pro that REALLY helped. It's amazing how real experience can make such a huge difference over trial and error (even with reading up on things). I'll pass those on shortly. For now I'm busy trying to finish the trim paint (I finished priming tonight) and then start the tile for the wet bar.

Heh, a big thank you to my wife (hi love!) for asking me if I'd already cut the hole in the floor for the pop lines to come up from the garage -- doh!! I forgot Well, at least I only have the backer board in and not tile. I should be able to score a hole with the carbide knife and cut it out with a cold chisel. Whew, that was close!!

post #25 of 463
Originally Posted by accts4mjs View Post

Heh, a big thank you to my wife (hi love!) for asking me if I'd already cut the hole in the floor for the pop lines to come up from the garage -- doh!! I forgot



Love the stories -- keep 'em coming. Makes me feel better. My wife calls me "Tim Taylor" sometimes after I goof up on things. BTW -- if your wife is reading your thread, she needs to post occasionally to give us her perspective on the quality of your work
post #26 of 463
Originally Posted by accts4mjs View Post

Wow!! That's pretty impressive. Glad you had someone there to help out. (Did you have to change your pants after you got down off the ladder -- I would have ).

Actually, heights don't bother me at all. When I was doing construction, I would be the one straddling on top of the 3rd floor exterior wall that is held up by a couple braces/nails, or hanging off the edge of the roof nailing in facia. It got the job done a lot faster though.

Nice rendering of the front.. I like those styles. Like Chris Armbruster and Ronnie Jackson's theaters almost (not the same stage concept though). Have you considered hiding the speakers behind AT material? That often gives a great cinematic/theater feel when they're hidden.
post #27 of 463
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by miltimj View Post

Have you considered hiding the speakers behind AT material? That often gives a great cinematic/theater feel when they're hidden.

Ehhhh...yeah, I kind of did but I've always kind of liked the look of nice speakers. I ordered the Aperion 633Ts for the front (and their new 634VAC for the center). The finish is a high gloss black -- I really like it, you can see yourself in them

So, yeah, I'm kind of torn on this issue. (well, not totally, I'm already past being able to do this at this point .) I agree that it would definitely give it more of a theater feel and I probably could have gotten away with it in terms of room size but I would have lost counter space on my wet bar at the same time (the false wall to hide the speakers behind would have sucked it up).

Of course, I guess I could have backed into the attic space, that wouldn't have been too hard. But it would have been time and more money (and I'm already over budget so it's probably a good thing I didn't). And this is a bit more flexible if I ever want to change speakers (doubt it, but who knows).

So, I guess I'll kind of shrug my shoulders a bit and say, ehhhh one more time

Off to cut tile. I sprayed the trim tonight (satin black) -- it looks sharp!! My wife was saying how it's really starting to come together and she can kind of see it now -- yeah!!

I'll have plenty to post about what I've learned on spray painting. Man, if I'd only known before hand...

post #28 of 463
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by swithey View Post

Love the stories -- keep 'em coming. Makes me feel better. My wife calls me "Tim Taylor" sometimes after I goof up on things.

Thanks Steve!

Heh, wait until I write about tonight's little blunder. I was just stupified. I guess I'm kind of getting used to it now, I didn't even get angry

post #29 of 463
Thread Starter 

So I actually painted the trim last night and laid tile today. But those are stories for another day. Today's story is paint prep.

The prep is pretty straight forward. Basically you fill the nail holes and caulk the seams (assuming you're painting). One thing I messed up was to use something called "Painter's Putty" from Sherwin Williams. I trusted the store clerk (I usually ask around or hit the internet for my info) -- this stuff was pretty much not for what I was trying to do. I wanted to fill, sand and prime before we left for vacation for 4 days. I filled and then looked on the can to see how long to wait before sanding and it said "at LEAST 24 hours". Great. No primer today. We got back and it was stiff but not hard. Must be because I hadn't primed with oil first? Apparently it's an oil based product and did not like my bare wood and MDF. Grrr.

Anyway, I did the best I could and I will say I'm not happy with the results (they're okay, but spackling paste is what I should have used, live and learn).

The caulking went great. Wayyyy better than the last time I tried this. Basically I just barely cut the tip (probably a 16th of an inch to be honest). I didn't even think I'd get caulk out. But turns out not only did I get caulk out but it was more or less exactly what I wanted. I filled a bucket with water and threw a rag into it. I'd dip my finger in the water and quickly run it along the caulk (only do one section at a time, this gets harder as it starts to set). That was it, no mess all over my finger (from too much caulk) and no trailing side lines (also from too much caulk) like the last time I did this. The rag in the bucket is to quickly rub your fingers against to get the caulk off. Couldn't have been easier!! Oh, and for areas that had a bit bigger gap I ran two separate beads (one a couple hours later after the first had set up).

Here are a few photos.

This is of the storage closet door header and casing:

This is of the closet shelves (I did these last, by that point I was moving a mile a minute, pretty easy to get good at quickly). I'd suggest starting in the closet since there are so many seams to caulk, then by the time you get to the outside stuff you're pretty good at it and it'll look better.

Here's a shot of some of the trim. I did miter joints on the outside corners and coped joints on the inside miters. I didn't take any photos of me coping the joints but I figured out a quick way to cut these with a miter saw, jig saw, and coping saw if anyone is interested. Oh, and I also did 45deg returns on all my headers for the window and doors. I can give pointers on those too if people are interested.

Tomorrow I'll try to post my priming experience, tips from a professional painter and my flooding debacle (of course something went wrong -- it's me ).

post #30 of 463
Looking good, Mike!!

The guys who painted the inside of our house a few months ago did such a fantastic job priming, puttying, and caulking before they painted. I couldn't believe how they caulked every individual seam in the room. Of course, I found this out the hard way , trying to remove door casings, window casings, and baseboards.
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