AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Screens › DIY Screen Section › Laminate Screen Material and Testing!
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Laminate Screen Material and Testing! - Page 39

post #1141 of 2849
12/13/06 at 6:41pm
Doug,
If you can't clean it off I would take it back. You paid good money for the sheet and it should be perfect when you get it.
No, White out will not work.

Jon
Reply
Reply

AVS Top Picks

post #1142 of 2849
12/13/06 at 7:38pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougi3000 View Post

hmm... i got my DW laminate today.
I bring it home, and it looks like there are a few burn marks on it.
Looks like someone was smoking around it. the burn marks are like a brownish orange spot about 1mm in diameter.



Anyone know how to get rid of these? will White-Out do?

Definitely take it back. If you read through this thread you know I literally put this stuff through a torture test... I soaked it and hot water, then immediately froze it... then took it out of the freezer and flexed it... regular markers and pencils wiped right off, pen ink was more difficult but did come off. Sharpies, well they are made to be permanant now aren't they? But I doubt anyone is going to play tick tack toe with a sharpie on their screen.

The one item that will damage laminate and pretty fast is extreme heat. What you describe sounds exactly like heat damage and they owe you another sheet. I'd even try for a discount due to your troubles and wasted time, but if you're dealing with HD don't hold your breath. Still it is worth talking to the store manager...
Reply
Reply
post #1143 of 2849
12/13/06 at 9:04pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mech View Post

The painting is easy as long as you read Basic Roller Painting Instructions in tiddlers Faq. I didn't the first time and made some silly mistakes and had to redo it. I ended up with a 100" screen with 2 inches overlapping each side. I overlapped cause I knew I'd screw up and because I wanted to attach the Velveteen to the outer edge. If you seen my edges where I rotozipped the laminate.... let's just say it's not pretty. Overall cost including framing, a quart of poly and rollers was around $225. The Laminate was $95 and the lumber for framing was around $100.

mech


Thank you for that info mech. I will read into those more in depth when it comes time for me to paint. But my question still remains, for my light conditions is the painted FG better or is the clean DW better? I am all for painting (or finding some buddy who can paint) I just can't decide which color I want to go with and which is better for my light conditions.
Reply
Reply
post #1144 of 2849
12/13/06 at 9:27pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mech View Post

The painting is easy as long as you read Basic Roller Painting Instructions in tiddlers Faq. I didn't the first time and made some silly mistakes and had to redo it. I ended up with a 100" screen with 2 inches overlapping each side. I overlapped cause I knew I'd screw up and because I wanted to attach the Velveteen to the outer edge. If you seen my edges where I rotozipped the laminate.... let's just say it's not pretty. Overall cost including framing, a quart of poly and rollers was around $225. The Laminate was $95 and the lumber for framing was around $100.

mech

WOW! $100 for your lumber? What did you get? I could have shown you where to get 'museum' quality stretcher bars that are already mitered AND have corner slots to fit seamlessly together, all for $55 for a 54x96 border! Smaller would be even cheaper.

I threw together a temporary border to dress up my test screen for pictures and the poplar was around $12, and the material was something like $8 for three yards of it.
Reply
Reply
post #1145 of 2849
12/14/06 at 3:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dougi3000 View Post

hmm... i got my DW laminate today.
I bring it home, and it looks like there are a few burn marks on it.
Looks like someone was smoking around it. the burn marks are like a brownish orange spot about 1mm in diameter.



Anyone know how to get rid of these? will White-Out do?

edit: some pics, these are some of the marks, i have counted a bunch more, but these are the most noticable.
On a better note these pics show exactly what the DW texture looks like. No spots are alike!






edit2: oops forgot you shouldnt attach images in the msg board. haha :/

Those look like burn marks. If they will not clean off I would take them back. Right now. Any small marks on my sheet clleaned right off.
Reply
Reply
post #1146 of 2849
12/14/06 at 8:37am
Quote:
Originally Posted by wbassett View Post

WOW! $100 for your lumber? What did you get? I could have shown you where to get 'museum' quality stretcher bars that are already mitered AND have corner slots to fit seamlessly together, all for $55 for a 54x96 border! Smaller would be even cheaper.

I threw together a temporary border to dress up my test screen for pictures and the poplar was around $12, and the material was something like $8 for three yards of it.

Got it at a local yard. It was Maple and Poplar. I do a bit of woodworking as a hobby and I'm a bit particular about it. I've built more than my share of warped furniture etc. and I didn't want my wood to twist and warp. I think the Poplar was around $1.25+ per linear foot. And I basically built 2 frames. One for the screen and one for the rope backlighting. The rope light was only 18 feet long so to get it to cover the whole backside I built a 3X6 frame within the screen frame. Then it had to sit off the wall so I needed some 1X2s to take care of that. Don't recall what the maple cost per linear (I'd guess $2.50+ - they were 1X3s) but that was what I used for my velveteen border. I know some folks use the tape but I like the look of a nice raised border. Kinda gives it a TV look to it. I had an idea of how I wanted it to look and I had no problem spending a little more to get it the way I wanted it to look. The only issue I have right now is the way the rope lighting turned out. It's not as bright as I thought it would be nor does it have the 'wow' effect I was looking for. I think it's because the rope light was only 18' long and it sits about 12" in. I've looked for longer rope lights locally but can't seem to find any longer. But this issue would be for a different thread.

In hindsight, I could've used aluminum or something else and it would've been cheaper. The only thing I kept thinking was I wanted it to be less than $500. And I ended up less than half of that. But it's really all about what you're comfortable with. If you look closely at the pic of my frame, all the butt joints are pocket holes. That probably would have given you a clue as to why it's wood and why it cost so much!

mech
Reply
Reply
post #1147 of 2849
12/14/06 at 8:39am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tiddler View Post

dougi3000, I simpathise with your troubles but as you said the pictures do show the DW texture. It looks perfect for a screen.

Does the Fashion Gray look similar?

Yes. I should add that mine is a bit more subdued now that it has two coats of poly on it. But it looked identical pre-poly.

mech
Reply
Reply
post #1148 of 2849
12/14/06 at 8:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soransis View Post

Thank you for that info mech. I will read into those more in depth when it comes time for me to paint. But my question still remains, for my light conditions is the painted FG better or is the clean DW better? I am all for painting (or finding some buddy who can paint) I just can't decide which color I want to go with and which is better for my light conditions.

Based on your earlier post about "uncontrollable light", I'd say FG would be a better plan. The poly painting is easy! As long as you read that faq of tiddler's.

mech
Reply
Reply
post #1149 of 2849
12/14/06 at 8:43am
dougi3000,

I echo others advice, take it back!

mech
Reply
Reply
post #1150 of 2849
12/14/06 at 10:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mech View Post

Based on your earlier post about "uncontrollable light", I'd say FG would be a better plan. The poly painting is easy! As long as you read that faq of tiddler's.

mech

Dove Grey would be a good fit for your situation too. It is working great for me with ambiant light and in complete darkness.

I totally agree with Mech on the poly. I just did two coats of the Behr water based poly on my Dove Grey and it improved my screen that I thought was already working well. Hotspotting, what little I noticed anyway, is completely gone. Thanks for the tip Mech. I'll try to get some new screen shots posted!
Reply
Reply
post #1151 of 2849
12/14/06 at 11:04am
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevphol View Post

Thanks for the tip Mech.

Actually a hearty thank you goes out to tiddler for using this Matte/flat poly first. And I believe it was MississippiMan who suggested either I or someone else should try it on their laminate. Thanks guys!!

mech
Reply
Reply
post #1152 of 2849
12/15/06 at 6:13am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mech View Post

The only issue I have right now is the way the rope lighting turned out. It's not as bright as I thought it would be nor does it have the 'wow' effect I was looking for. I think it's because the rope light was only 18' long and it sits about 12" in. I've looked for longer rope lights locally but can't seem to find any longer. But this issue would be for a different thread.

Quick comment on your rope light dilemma -- in my experience, strings of rope light can be daisy-chained together to achieve longer lengths. I think the limit is around 200' of rope light fed by a single power receptacle (at least, for the brand I bought).
Of course, the difficulty there is probably going to be getting the lighting to look even in the region where the two strings connect. You wouldn't want overlap between the two ropes to cause a bright spot, nor a space to cause a dark spot. But I think it could be done...
Reply
Reply
post #1153 of 2849
12/15/06 at 2:06pm
Is it possible to butt these and seam them together??
I'd like a 4:3 screen 120" wide
Thanks
Bob
Reply
Reply
post #1154 of 2849
12/15/06 at 6:36pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by underdog57 View Post

Is it possible to butt these and seam them together??
I'd like a 4:3 screen 120" wide
Thanks
Bob

Probably not the seam would show. Its a countertop surface so you could use those techniques to make a very clean seam. To make a 120 wide screen, you need a 4:3 screen 90 inch tall, so the 2 61 height sheets length wise would have a seam 1/3 up or down. Thats using a 5x8 sheet and 1/4 of a 4x8 sheet.

If you used 2 5x8 sheets and placed them side by side as 8 foot tall sheets, you would not have the seam going sidewise it would go up and down, in the middle which would be distracting.

You best bet would be to use a 5x8 sheets and 2 4x8 sheets. stand them all up. That would leave a pure 5 x 8 sheet in the middle and 2/5 x 8 sheets on the sides. The screen will be so huge that the most of you perception will be in teh middles as will most of the main action. If the seams are on the sides tehy may not be as noticable.
Reply
Reply
post #1155 of 2849
12/15/06 at 10:58pm
Here are some screen shots of my Fashion Grey 100" screen. I am using the Mits HD1000U and these pics do not do it justice. Thanks for everyone on this thread with the research and time they put in. I have a world class screen for less that $200. And that is including the rope lighting!

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]
Reply
Reply
post #1156 of 2849
12/15/06 at 11:24pm
Really nice screen shots. So are you seeing any warm spotting at all with your WAFG screen?
Reply
Reply
post #1157 of 2849
12/16/06 at 12:02am
Has anyone tried to make a curved screen out of this yet? I remember reading that there was talk about it, but hadn't noticed if anyone had actually done it.

Wish I could see those pics of the HD1000U on the FG screen, I'm looking into that setup myself.
Reply
Reply
post #1158 of 2849
12/16/06 at 6:14am
Nice job auburnu008!! Looks great! No Hotspotting? Wish my rope light turned out as nice as yours! Think I'm gonna have to fix that this week.

mech
Reply
Reply
post #1159 of 2849
12/16/06 at 8:40am
Great job, auburnu008! You've done exactly what I'm in the process of doing. Do you have any hints on mounting the ropelighting?

Quote:
Originally Posted by auburnu008 View Post

Here are some screen shots of my Fashion Grey 100" screen. I am using the Mits HD1000U and these pics do not do it justice. Thanks for everyone on this thread with the research and time they put in. I have a world class screen for less that $200. And that is including the rope lighting!

[IMG][/IMG]
Reply
Reply
post #1160 of 2849
12/16/06 at 9:51am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soransis View Post

Okay, I'm sorry for posting this but I really tried to look through almost all the posts here for the information.

My situation is trying to find a DIY solution for a room with some uncontrollable light, namely my apartment livingroom. I really tried to read through and look for someone having a similar situation, or attempting to simulate the situation but I can't find a definitive answer conserning my situation. I was reading into the idea mech brought up with using the FG and painting it. That seemed like a good option and I wouldn't mind the painting. Does the painting require super painter skills, or can any old, non-painting, crappy-painter joe put it on and have it look decent? Reading through most of the posts I can't figure out which one would be better for my light situation the FG painted or the DW clean. I am looking into purchasing the HD1000U, if anyone has posted about it I haven't noticed. Or maybe there is a PJ comparable to the HD1000U that someone has used? I was looking at going for a 16:9/4:3 screen (the 5x8 I think was the one mentioned that didn't need any cutting to accomadate for both). I would find a way to make it diagonal and NOT straight at all, even if I used a straight edge to cut on, that is how bad I am at cutting straight. I've been looking through these forums for good DIY screen solutions, and it really is a GREAT job from everyone doing research and tests on these types of screens.

As for my situation, I probably won't be putting anything together for a year (sitting in Iraq atm). I am just trying to get a feel of what I might be spending in the near future and if it would be worth it for me on my tight budget to get a PJ. Who knows, maybe by the time I get back there will be some nice 1080p PJs on the market for rock bottom prices that I will use instead of the HD1000U.

The first post has links and an index to all the major information.
Reply
Reply
post #1161 of 2849
12/16/06 at 12:01pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1Time View Post

Really nice screen shots. So are you seeing any warm spotting at all with your WAFG screen?

Thank you! I do not see any hot spotting at all. I am very happy with the screen. I was projecting it on the wall before and it looked good, but witht he screen it is improved 100%. I am really glad I went with FG over DW.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mech View Post

Nice job auburnu008!! Looks great! No Hotspotting? Wish my rope light turned out as nice as yours! Think I'm gonna have to fix that this week.

mech

Let me know if you ahve any questions about it. I will be happy to help.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jdonigan View Post

Great job, auburnu008! You've done exactly what I'm in the process of doing. Do you have any hints on mounting the ropelighting?

I have attached a few pics of how I did it. Thanks for the compliments.

First, I built a 100" frame with 1x4 boards. Then I built a 2nd frame out of 1x3 boards. The 1x3 frame was to allow the screen to be resessed from the wall and to allow the rope lighting to be mounting. I attached the 2 frames together with brackets. Then I put the rope lighting in and attached the FG screen. Here are some pics I took of the frame. The rope lights were $18 shipped. They were 24' so they fit the 100" screen perfect. I got them on ebay, item # 170015610940. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks again for the compliments. Thanks for everyones research on here. I could not have done it with you guys!

[IMG][/IMG]



Reply
Reply
post #1162 of 2849
12/16/06 at 3:41pm
auburn.

Did you use the clear rope lights or yellow? I wonder what red would look like, my basement room is dark. Project looks nice. Txs
Reply
Reply
post #1163 of 2849
12/16/06 at 3:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by auburnu008 View Post

Thank you! I do not see any hot spotting at all. I am very happy with the screen. I was projecting it on the wall before and it looked good, but witht he screen it is improved 100%. I am really glad I went with FG over DW.
Let me know if you ahve any questions about it. I will be happy to help.
I have attached a few pics of how I did it. Thanks for the compliments.
First, I built a 100" frame with 1x4 boards. Then I built a 2nd frame out of 1x3 boards. The 1x3 frame was to allow the screen to be resessed from the wall and to allow the rope lighting to be mounting. I attached the 2 frames together with brackets. Then I put the rope lighting in and attached the FG screen. Here are some pics I took of the frame. The rope lights were $18 shipped. They were 24' so they fit the 100" screen perfect. I got them on ebay, item # 170015610940. Let me know if you have any questions. Thanks again for the compliments. Thanks for everyones research on here. I could not have done it with you guys!

I think the problem with my rope lights is that they're about 12" in from the edge of my frame. I could only find 18 footers locally in stores. I'm thinkin' I'm going to put a second one back there and see if it helps.

Looking at your pics again it does appear that your FG hotspots ever so slightly just like mine did before poly. I notice it in the blank screen shot and the green preview screen. Notice the middle of the green screen and the lower middle of the blank screen. Watch a hockey game or a winter/snow program and take another look at it. If you can live with it great! But if it bothers you, roll some poly! It didn't bother me until I watched a hockey game.

mech
Reply
Reply
post #1164 of 2849
12/16/06 at 4:07pm
Mech- I just saw your previous pictures. Did you replace Parkland with FG. I'm currently using Parkland and your pictures of the FG is a definite improvement.
Reply
Reply
post #1165 of 2849
12/16/06 at 4:12pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by lashag View Post

Mech- I just saw your previous pictures. Did you replace Parkland with FG. I'm currently using Parkland and your pictures of the FG is a definite improvement.

Yes. I have ambient light issues and the parkland performs poorly with ambient light.

mech
Reply
Reply
post #1166 of 2849
12/16/06 at 10:38pm
I've skimmed through this thread and found that most of the materials being used (Do-Able/PolyWall, etc) are limited to out west. Anyone suggest any good materials that are cheap for us on the east coast? I need something I can cut to a diagonal of about 65 to 70 inches for an In72. I went to 76" on my wall but noticed too much SDE. However, the wall paper really wasn't helping matters. I have a maximum throw of about 11.5 feet with seating arrangements of 8 to 10 feet. I was thinking of moving the projector closer for a smaller screen, but hopes of reducing the SDE. I'd like to try and get away with using a piece of vinyl or panel board and just mount it up with mirror hangers. If anyone can provide me with some info on materials I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!
Reply
Reply
post #1167 of 2849
12/17/06 at 4:20am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BenJF3 View Post

I've skimmed through this thread and found that most of the materials being used (Do-Able/PolyWall, etc) are limited to out west. Anyone suggest any good materials that are cheap for us on the east coast? I need something I can cut to a diagonal of about 65 to 70 inches for an In72. I went to 76" on my wall but noticed too much SDE. However, the wall paper really wasn't helping matters. I have a maximum throw of about 11.5 feet with seating arrangements of 8 to 10 feet. I was thinking of moving the projector closer for a smaller screen, but hopes of reducing the SDE. I'd like to try and get away with using a piece of vinyl or panel board and just mount it up with mirror hangers. If anyone can provide me with some info on materials I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!

Wilson Art laminate, color Designer White is available nationally. in 4x8 5x8 5x10 5x12 sheets from you local Lowes or Home Depot or other store. Go to their webiste and check out for local dealer distributers. they have to order it and it may take a week to get in. a 4x8 sheet makes a96 screen IIRC. A 5x8 makes a 110 inch screen.

Its around $60 for a 4x8 $90 for a 5x8 sheet delivered plus or minus 10%
Reply
Reply
post #1168 of 2849
12/17/06 at 4:21am
BenJJF3

Read the first post for more info.
Reply
Reply
post #1169 of 2849
12/17/06 at 6:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kosty View Post

Wilson Art laminate, color Designer White is available nationally. in 4x8 5x8 5x10 5x12 sheets from you local Lowes or Home Depot or other store. Go to their webiste and check out for local dealer distributers. they have to order it and it may take a week to get in. a 4x8 sheet makes a96 screen IIRC. A 5x8 makes a 110 inch screen.

Its around $60 for a 4x8 $90 for a 5x8 sheet delivered plus or minus 10%

Our Home Depot as 4x8 WA-DW sheets for $39 in stock (5 sheets)? Located in Fort Wayne, IN. I thought that was very cheap. Now I am deciding between building one or getting an electric. I cannot mount this screen on the wall, it has to sit about 10" off the wall to clear the artwork and fireplace mantle. Anybody have any good ideas on how to float a DIY laminate screen?
Reply
Reply
post #1170 of 2849
12/17/06 at 6:19am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TeamSpeed View Post

Our Home Depot as 4x8 sheets for $39 in stock (5 sheets)? Located in Fort Wayne, IN. I thought that was very cheap. Now I am deciding between building one or getting an electric. I cannot mount this screen on the wall, it has to sit about 10" off the wall to clear the artwork and fireplace mantle. Anybody have any good ideas on how to float a DIY laminate screen?

If you're looking for 4X8 material, and you want a white screen, maybe you should look into the Parkland Polywall. It costs @ $15, much cheaper than DW and performs about the same from what I understand. It's when you want a bigger screen that you should look into the DW.

mech
Reply
Reply
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: DIY Screen Section

AVS Top Picks

AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Screens › DIY Screen Section › Laminate Screen Material and Testing!