Originally Posted by tony_B_wi
I had seen dri-core at HD but the cost is going to add roughly $1000 to the rooms. I suppose that is insignificant compared to the cost of water or mold damages (not that I expect any).
And that's how I justified spending the extra money. I am paranoid about mold; even if it's not the toxic stuff, it smells.
Here's two horror stories--
A college buddy up in Milwaukee has had an issue in the summer with his basement floor getting wet. The house is a post-war bungalow, with a basement rec room that was done in the 60s. He called me a couple of weeks ago saying that the floor tiles felt soggy and squished when he stepped on them. Well, to make the story short, he now has an asbestos abatement problem with his loose floor tiles.
Story two-- our neighborhood is new. The neighborhood was built with separate drainage systems for sewer and storm. Houses were also built with backflow prevention so that storm runoof/sewer can't back up into basements. Our next door neighbors were having a relative (brother-in-law GC) finish their basement. He had unplugged the French drain sump pump (one of two outlets in our basements) and neglected to re-plug it. After a pretty good summer storm, they had six inches
of standing water in their freshly drywalled basement.
Of course, Dricore (or similar) isn't going to solve those problems-- I just thought I'd share some basement-water horror stories.
With Dricore, you can put carpeting/pad right over the top of it-- no additional underlayment needed. The manufacturer claims that the plastic is strong enough that you could even put a piano on the floor-- and they recommend that interior walls be built over the top of the floor. I haven't seen any deflection.
Before I put Dricore down, I painted the floor with Drylock (if you do this, make sure you get the stuff that can be used on floors).
Originally Posted by tony_B_wi
Did you put up any vapor barrier? None of the GC's I spoke with thought it necessary...
One of my wife's sisters and her husband live outside of Mukwanago. Their GC told them the same thing about eight years ago. Their basement reeks of mold. With a vapor barrier, don't put it against the concrete; you want the barrier on the side of the insulation facing the room (i.e., inside).
For my exterior walls, I framed standard 2x4 walls ap. 1-2 inches away from the concrete walls, insulating them with vapor barrier-backed insulation, with the vapor barrier facing the inside of the room. Pics are available on my Media Room website
I also used a mold-resistant drywall for my walls. It has a specially-treated core and uses fiberglass instead of a paper backing. It's also about twice as heavy as regular drywall and it's more difficult to get a good drywall screw dimple in it without popping the hole. It was also a couple of bucks a sheet more expensive than regular drywall. (I also gladly paid extra to have the Menards delivery guys take it down to the basement for me.)
I've heard that the best thing to do in insulating an already-built raw basement is to start by gluing an inch of extruded (not expanded) polystyrene directly to concrete walls and then building insulated 2x4 walls inside the polystyrene. And that the absolute best way to insulate a basement is by insulate it from the outside with extruded polystyrene before the basement is back-filled.