or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK) - Page 35

post #1021 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Seven hours!

Thanks for the report. It's now included in the calibration list linked at the bottom of my post.

This set requires certain settings be adjusted per input type AND per resolution (480 vs 720/1080). Any other HLS it would have been 2-3hrs less based on that alone. But dave is definitely very easy to get along with and made time fly.
post #1022 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikishk View Post

But dave is definitely very easy to get along with and made time fly.

Yes he is.
post #1023 of 2935
I've been curious to see this set (although I'm happy with my D-ILA) but it hasn't been available in stores up here. So I was interested to see it finally got listed on the Samsung Canada web site. And when I read the entry, they claim it has a colour wheel! They even boast about how great that wheel is. And the real kicker is when I tried to email them to point out that they don't understand their own technology, I got a reply in broken English that the URL for feedback was discontinued.

I realize the web design staff is not the same as the TV design and manufacturing part of this company, but it sure doesn't give much confidence in Samsung in general.
post #1024 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by davegow View Post

I've been curious to see this set (although I'm happy with my D-ILA) but it hasn't been available in stores up here. So I was interested to see it finally got listed on the Samsung Canada web site. And when I read the entry, they claim it has a colour wheel! They even boast about how great that wheel is. And the real kicker is when I tried to email them to point out that they don't understand their own technology, I got a reply in broken English that the URL for feedback was discontinued.

I realize the web design staff is not the same as the TV design and manufacturing part of this company, but it sure doesn't give much confidence in Samsung in general.

I'm starting to think that Samsung must just have a consultant update their website...probably just one person who gets a work order from them, and a few weeks later, in between other jobs, makes an update. They were perpetually late with updating information on all the other HL-S sets, especially the 5679, even on their US website.
post #1025 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by davegow View Post

I realize the web design staff is not the same as the TV design and manufacturing part of this company, ...

My theory is that Samsung out-sourced their web site to a guy in Arkansas who in turn has subcontracted the HTML work to a sheep herder in Uzbekistan.
post #1026 of 2935
I'm going crazy waiting for this set to arrive in Montreal, Canada. Anyone know of Canadian retailers who have it? TIA
post #1027 of 2935
Hi all,

First post. I just had my new 5679 delivered by Best Buy about 2 hourse ago.

I'm experiencing terrible ghosting/bleeding from all input signals. This is very noticable on widescreen movies/tv shows where the video ghosts/bleeds into the black bar at the top. Additionally, the onscreen text (movie title, credits, etc.) ghosts really bad - doubling up on the screen.

Here are my inputs:

S Video = Directv (non-hd) input set to 4:3
Component1 = XBox 360 set to 1080p, input set to 16:9 (games seem ok, DVD movies do not)
Component2 = Lacie Silverscreen (hard drive divx player with component out) input set to 16:9, Lacie set to 1080i (highest available)

I'm affraid I have a defective tv. Anyone else experience these issues?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

estwd
post #1028 of 2935
you may wanna try a couple things that Eliab recommends for the HLS series. What I had pre-calibration was:

Digital NR - OFF
DNIe - Off
Mode - Movie
Contrast - 40
Brightness - 45
Sharpness - 0
Color - 45
Tint - G50/R50
Color Tone - Warm2

You can also use the DVE disk and calibrate it further that way. If the base settings above dont give reasonable improvement, you might have other issues. I ended up going for a real calibration, and im very happy.
post #1029 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by estwd View Post

S Video = Directv (non-hd) input set to 4:3

Maybe the worst source available.

Quote:


Component1 = XBox 360 set to 1080p, input set to 16:9 (games seem ok, DVD movies do not)

I'm not familiar with the XBox, but can you have the XBox output 480i for movies? You may want to get a "real" upscaling DVD player like one of the highly rated OPPO players.

It's a good idea to indicate which DVD movies you are watching and what TV settings you are using. There is a big range of image quality in DVD movies, and how you have your TV setup is also important.

Quote:


Component2 = Lacie Silverscreen (hard drive divx player with component out) input set to 16:9, Lacie set to 1080i (highest available)

I have no idea what you should expect from this device. What is the native resolution of the material that you are sending to the TV. You might want to output that resolution and see how it looks.

Quote:


I'm affraid I have a defective tv.

Your inputs are not what most people buy a HDTV for. Under your circumstances it's very hard to tell what's wrong, but I suspect the quality of your inputs.

It takes time to figure these things out. Given the sources available to you it might be best to work on getting help with DVD movies, and setup changes first.
post #1030 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by estwd View Post

S Video = Directv (non-hd) input set to 4:3

Log into d*.com, go to contact us, type "Hello, I was wondering if I could get a free HD DVR? Thank you." They should call you shortly, play your loyalty card and get the HR20 for free. They will come out, install a new AT9 dish and bring the new box. My HR20 looks a LOT better than my HDVR2, but im still a tivo fan
post #1031 of 2935
Can you explain what the DVE disk is and how I get it?

Thanks!

estwd

You can also use the DVE disk and calibrate it further that way. If the base settings above dont give reasonable improvement, you might have other issues. I ended up going for a real calibration, and im very happy. [/quote]
post #1032 of 2935
I notice the text ghosting/bleeding the most when the background is black. No one else has this?

My sample disk in the XBox 360 is LOTR extended edition.




Quote:
Originally Posted by ikishk View Post

you may wanna try a couple things that Eliab recommends for the HLS series. What I had pre-calibration was:

Digital NR - OFF
DNIe - Off
Mode - Movie
Contrast - 40
Brightness - 45
Sharpness - 0
Color - 45
Tint - G50/R50
Color Tone - Warm2

You can also use the DVE disk and calibrate it further that way. If the base settings above dont give reasonable improvement, you might have other issues. I ended up going for a real calibration, and im very happy.
post #1033 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by estwd View Post

Can you explain what the DVE disk is and how I get it?

"search" on the upper right is your friend. avical dve link
post #1034 of 2935
Let me clarify - When widescreen movies are on a brighter scene I can see the movie extend into the upper black bar. Not distorted, just that you can plainly see the film extend into the black bar area. Hope that makes sense.

Thanks for added help.

estwd




Quote:
Originally Posted by estwd View Post

Hi all,

First post. I just had my new 5679 delivered by Best Buy about 2 hourse ago.

I'm experiencing terrible ghosting/bleeding from all input signals. This is very noticable on widescreen movies/tv shows where the video ghosts/bleeds into the black bar at the top. Additionally, the onscreen text (movie title, credits, etc.) ghosts really bad - doubling up on the screen.

Here are my inputs:

S Video = Directv (non-hd) input set to 4:3
Component1 = XBox 360 set to 1080p, input set to 16:9 (games seem ok, DVD movies do not)
Component2 = Lacie Silverscreen (hard drive divx player with component out) input set to 16:9, Lacie set to 1080i (highest available)

I'm affraid I have a defective tv. Anyone else experience these issues?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,

estwd
post #1035 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by estwd View Post

Let me clarify - When widescreen movies are on a brighter scene I can see the movie extend into the upper black bar. Not distorted, just that you can plainly see the film extend into the black bar area. Hope that makes sense.

Using Component causes your Xbox to convert the DVD's digital data to analog followed by the TV which have to convert the analog back to digital. There is no way around that unless you get a DVD player with either a digital DVI or a digital HDMI output.

The image quality using Component will probably not be as sharp as one produced by a data path that is "all" digital, but it shouldn't cause what you are describing.

I suggested that you try having your Xbox output 480i (progressive mode off) when you play a DVD. Have you been able to try that?

Just to double check, have you made sure that the Xbox is set to use a 16x9 TV screen. It sounded like you had, but if for some reason you haven't that could cause some strange effects.

It would also help to know which picture size setting you are using and which picture mode also. Using Eliab's suggested starting settings is a good idea.

It will help if some owners who also use a Xbox for playing DVDs start responding. Since a lot of people do their AVS posting from work that may take until Monday.

It's possible your set has a mirror out of place.

LOTR is a high quality transfer so you should expect good results from a properly set up TV/Player with some reasonable calibration settings.
post #1036 of 2935
Thing is, the ghosting of text happens everywhere: dvds via the xbox 360, directv, and the Lacie Silverscreen. It is most noticable when text is against a dark background.

The strangest thing though is that you can see the movie/show underneath the widescreen bars, as if the show is extending under the bars.


Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Using Component causes your Xbox to convert the DVD's digital data to analog followed by the TV which have to convert the analog back to digital. There is no way around that unless you get a DVD player with either a digital DVI or a digital HDMI output.

The image quality using Component will probably not be as sharp as one produced by a data path that is "all" digital, but it shouldn't cause what you are describing.

I suggested that you try having your Xbox output 480i (progressive mode off) when you play a DVD. Have you been able to try that?

Just to double check, have you made sure that the Xbox is set to use a 16x9 TV screen. It sounded like you had, but if for some reason you haven't that could cause some strange effects.

It would also help to know which picture size setting you are using and which picture mode also. Using Eliab's suggested starting settings is a good idea.

It will help if some owners who also use a Xbox for playing DVDs start responding. Since a lot of people do their AVS posting from work that may take until Monday.

It's possible your set has a mirror out of place.

LOTR is a high quality transfer so you should expect good results from a properly set up TV/Player with some reasonable calibration settings.
post #1037 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by estwd View Post

Thing is, the ghosting of text happens everywhere: dvds via the xbox 360, directv, and the Lacie Silverscreen. It is most noticable when text is against a dark background.

The strangest thing though is that you can see the movie/show underneath the widescreen bars, as if the show is extending under the bars.

I understand, but what about these items?

Item #1:
Quote:


I suggested that you try having your Xbox output 480i (progressive mode off) when you play a DVD. Have you been able to try that?

Item #2:
Quote:


Just to double check, have you made sure that the Xbox is set to use a 16x9 TV screen? It sounded like you had, but if for some reason you haven't that could cause some strange effects.

Item #3:
Quote:


It would also help to know which picture size setting you are using and which picture mode also. Using Eliab's suggested starting settings is a good idea.

post #1038 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Maybe the worst source available.

I'm not familiar with the XBox, but can you have the XBox output 480i for movies? You may want to get a "real" upscaling DVD player like one of the highly rated OPPO players.

It's a good idea to indicate which DVD movies you are watching and what TV settings you are using. There is a big range of image quality in DVD movies, and how you have your TV setup is also important.

I have no idea what you should expect from this device. What is the native resolution of the material that you are sending to the TV. You might want to output that resolution and see how it looks.

Your inputs are not what most people buy a HDTV for. Under your circumstances it's very hard to tell what's wrong, but I suspect the quality of your inputs.

It takes time to figure these things out. Given the sources available to you it might be best to work on getting help with DVD movies, and setup changes first.

I have a few suggestions (some of which may be redundant):

1. If you're sending video signals through a receiver or a switchbox, try going straight to the TV and see if it improves things. If so, you may need different hardware...or fewer/shorter cables. In particular, I know of some switchboxes which can't handle the 1080 component signals.

2. Definitely make sure you try with your best analog cables, and the shorter the better. I'm not saying to go out and buy overpriced Monster cables, though if you go to a place like monoprice or parts express, you'll get great cables for cheap.

3. Use the best inputs possible. HDMI for cable, if possible, otherwise component. Avoid S-Video and composite unless you have no choice. HDMI is absolutely the best with these sets since they are digital all the way through, unlike other technologies. If you can get a DVD player with DVI or HDMI output then you'll get a better image (though I get a pretty good image just with the component out of mine).

4. For the cable, make sure you have a strong signal. I think someone was saying on another forum that you needed all splitters to be 2GHz, and as few as possible.

5. If all that fails, try to take a close-in picture with a digital camera and post it for us to see and compare against our sets.
post #1039 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikishk View Post

you may wanna try a couple things that Eliab recommends for the HLS series. What I had pre-calibration was:

Digital NR - OFF
DNIe - Off
Mode - Movie
Contrast - 40
Brightness - 45
Sharpness - 0
Color - 45
Tint - G50/R50
Color Tone - Warm2

You can also use the DVE disk and calibrate it further that way. If the base settings above dont give reasonable improvement, you might have other issues. I ended up going for a real calibration, and im very happy.

I will be posting a new recommended setting for HL-S5679 owners tomorrow that will be a little more accurate than the settings above.

Eliab
post #1040 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikishk View Post

This set requires certain settings be adjusted per input type AND per resolution (480 vs 720/1080). Any other HLS it would have been 2-3hrs less based on that alone. But dave is definitely very easy to get along with and made time fly.

Part of the reason also is simply that we've not spent nearly as much time calibrating these LED based DLP displays. But Dave and I have now streamlined the process where it doesn't take much longer than the non-LED HL-S displays.

Eliab
post #1041 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eliab View Post

Part of the reason also is simply that we've not spent nearly as much time calibrating these LED based DLP displays. But Dave and I have now streamlined the process where it doesn't take much longer than the non-LED HL-S displays.

practice makes perfect [faster] Not that im complaining, if he had to take 14hrs, I would have sacrificed the time for a better result. Just dont know how he'd survive on water alone!
post #1042 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikishk View Post

practice makes perfect [faster] Not that im complaining, if he had to take 14hrs, I would have sacrificed the time for a better result. Just dont know how he'd survive on water alone!

Dude, you gotta feed the calibrators!
post #1043 of 2935
I cant stand it anymore!! I'm marching my ass over the store and pulling the trigger on this set today! I've got the DVE disk on order as well as my cables. I've been lurking around the forum for a while and I was going to wait until Eliab posted his findings before taking the plunge but, alas, inpatience has gotten the best of me. Yeah, I know it's not so much that I am an owner as much as the tv already owns me. Thanks for allowing me to vent my exitement -- for some reason my wife doesn't seem 1/10th as exited about this as I am...weird.
I'm upgrading from a 27" 10 year old tube.
post #1044 of 2935
I hope this doesn't violate the (*NO PRICE TALK) mentioned in this thread's title, as it doesn't seem to violate any price talk rule for the forum, but has anyone else noticed a dramatic price drop in this set over the last month? Now it's almost too damn temping to give myself an early Xmas gift this year!
post #1045 of 2935
Ok, so before I throw this tv out the window (even though it's on the first floor) I decided to connect an HD antenna to it to see if that would fix the ghosting of all text on the screen and the images showing up under the black bars of widescreen.

I went to Best Buy and got the Terk HDTV Indoor Antenna.

I hooked it up to the cable/air connector on the back of the set. I changed the setting to air and let it check all the channels. NOTHING. No hd channels to be found over the air. I moved it around, stood on one foot, and did the moon walk - still no love.

The antenna goes back tomorrow.

Strike 2 on this set. I may be calling Magnolia to take this brick back.

estwd
post #1046 of 2935
Quote:


Just dont know how he'd survive on water alone!

That's the problem. Eveyone knows that in order to get Dave to work quickly, you first need to stuff him full of Pizza.
post #1047 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by raab View Post

I hope this doesn't violate the (*NO PRICE TALK) mentioned in this thread's title, as it doesn't seem to violate any price talk rule for the forum, but has anyone else noticed a dramatic price drop in this set over the last month? Now it's almost too damn temping to give myself an early Xmas gift this year!

I just checked one of the authorized dealers and yes, that's a big price drop. I don't think I'm sorry I got my set when I did though, it was a good enough deal at the time and I'm loving it...but if you're on the fence, this may be a good time to purchase.

If you're holding out for a 61" set though, this could be the first sign that Samsung is coming out with another set...I don't really know myself.
post #1048 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by tg2k View Post

Dude, you gotta feed the calibrators!

I tried!
post #1049 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by estwd View Post

The antenna goes back tomorrow.

Strike 2 on this set. I may be calling Magnolia to take this brick back.

Make sure another tv can get any channels. There is no such thing as an "HD Antenna," its all marketting. The signal is UHF/VHF, and an antenna thats 50yrs old will work great. Also, depending on where you are located compared to the towers, you will need amplification and directionality. Check out antennaweb.org to see what you need and where to point it.


You still never answered tg2k's questions and verified you set the tv settings to the recommended pre-calibrated settings. If you truly want our help, you should actually take our advice and give us feedback. I'm sure we all love reading you bitch, but at least make it mean something.
post #1050 of 2935
Hello all,

Here are my new recommended starter settings for Samsung HL-S displays (lamp or LED based). Don't forget that these are starting points from which to perform a more in-depth and accurate DVE user-menu calibration.

Digital NR - OFF
DNIe - Off
Mode - Movie
Contrast - 40
Brightness - 42
Sharpness - 0
Color - 45
Tint - G50/R50
Color Tone - Warm2

Eliab
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK)