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Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK) - Page 37

post #1081 of 2915
12/3/06 at 3:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by klac View Post

If you figure it out, I'd love to hear how.

I thought as much. Others have provide instructions for bulb/wheel sets that I've found do not apply to this set.

If Samsung as a dynamic iris in the their next LED model, I'm in.
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post #1082 of 2915
12/3/06 at 5:43pm
Hi all,

So what are the best internal sound settings for the 5679? I have implemented all the video settings that people are using...now to the sound.

UPDATE: Remember my 5679 that I got from Magnolia that had all the text and widescreen ghosting issues? Well, they switched the set out yesterday and the new one is 100x better!

Only problem I am noticing on the new one is sound fluctuations when watching TNT...haven't noticed it as much on othe channels. I am using DirecTV standard, HD comes next week.

estwd
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post #1083 of 2915
12/3/06 at 7:53pm
The best sound settings for the 5679 can be had by simply turning on the internal mute. Seriously, Don't expect anything better than poor sound quality from the built in speakers. I'd strongly suggest you consider saving up for a decent AV receiver and pair of external speakers. Even a cheapo HT in a box will blow the built in speakers out of the water.
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post #1084 of 2915
12/3/06 at 10:35pm
I'm seriously thinking about ordering this TV today but I want to ask the owners of it if any of them regret their purchase?? I currently have a Pioneer Elite 65" rear projection tv and it only supports 480p and 1080i. I'm a gamer and I'm getting a PS3 in a couple of days so I need a tv that supports 720p & 1080p. I'm also planning on hooking my 360 up with VGA cables to get 1080p on that as well. Does anyone have the PS3 hooked up with HDMI or the 360 with VGA? If so, how is the picture quality?

First of all, has anyone had a 65" tv for a few years and then moved to the 56" Samsung? If so, did the screen seem a lot smaller to you? I know I will notice the 9" difference but I was thinking that the much better picture quality would offset the reduction in screen size. Agree or disagree?

Is it worth waiting for a new model that supports HDMI 1.3? What is the benefit of that over the HDMI on this model?

Has anyone purchased their Samsung from One Call? If so, did everything work out okay with the delivery? Do you think they are a reputable dealer? Are they an authorized Samsung dealer?

Thanks for any feedback you can give me to help me make up my mind about buying this model!
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post #1085 of 2915
12/3/06 at 10:59pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by y2j View Post

Thanks for any feedback you can give me to help me make up my mind about buying this model!

You have a PM.
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post #1086 of 2915
12/3/06 at 11:14pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by y2j View Post

Do you think the price will drop a lot on this model in the next couple of months or do you think it will stay about the same as it is now?

...

Has anyone purchased their Samsung from One Call? If so, did everything work out okay with the delivery? Do you think they are a reputable dealer? Are they an authorized Samsung dealer?

No price talk, you have [another] PM. However, I got mine from them and they made sure I was happy. Their warranty plan is also decent. Dont forget to set aside some money for a calibrator too. Dont expect it to look stunning out of the box.
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post #1087 of 2915
12/4/06 at 11:33pm
I hope the owners aren't too busy enjoying their sets, and the pros haven't moved onto the next new thing just yet...

I just got my new set today, and even though I owned last years top-end 1080p offering for a few weeks (returned due to RBE) I'm very impressed, and really happy that I finally found what I've been looking for. Now that I have it, and have had a bit of time to play with the settings, I've developed a few questions for the other owners and pros still in the thread.

First thing I did OTB was to change the settings on all of my inputs to match Eliab's earlier suggestions. I found that, on all inputs (that I'm currently running devices to), that these suggestions were pretty far off for my eye. My copy of DVE is in in the mail, so I'm only able to adjust things to personal preferences for now. My Cable/DVR box is hooked up via HDMI->HDMI, and I have it set to movie mode and DNR off as per Eliab's suggestions. However, I've found the need to up the contrast to 58, due to the rather small sweet spot. Then I only had to change channels to a HD hockey broadcast to realize the suggested Warm2 color tone was far too red, and 'Normal'/'Cool1' seemed to give a much more accurate white, while keeping flesh tones a proper color. I have a Wii on video and a PS2 on component. I've set both to 'Game' mode, Cool1, and bumped up the brightness and contrast even further. Should I be worried that my settings are so far off the general recommended settings of a forum pro? A calibration tour is coming through in 4 months, and I plan on taking full advantage. Until then, I want to make sure nothing is wrong with my set before my 30 day return period is up. Don't get me wrong, the set looks absolutely fantastic, but either it's a much different set than Eliab managed to get his hands on, there's something wrong with the set, or there's something wrong with my eyes.

Thanks to you all for the help and support I've received here over the years. Now it's time for me to spend a few years browsing the Receiver/Speaker/Subwoofer forums
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post #1088 of 2915
12/5/06 at 12:06am
you have to remember, each component device (not cable, heh) outputs its image slightly diff. pre-calibration, my settings differed per input, but my base started at eliabs suggested settings.
Have fun w/ the dve disk, its a blast (we need a sarcastic face thingy) Pro calibration was worth every penny.
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post #1089 of 2915
12/5/06 at 6:48am
After you get the calibration close with a calibration DVD, use the "Steaming Rat " method to really nail down the colors and shadows... the technique works for DLP, LED, CRT, LCD and plasmas...
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post #1090 of 2915
12/5/06 at 9:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by raab View Post

Don't get me wrong, the set looks absolutely fantastic, but either it's a much different set than Eliab managed to get his hands on, there's something wrong with the set, or there's something wrong with my eyes.

It doesn't sound like there is anything wrong with your TV, but your expectations about Eliab's "starter" settings may be a little off.

When the DVE disk arrives use Eliab's instructions, and do it for different lighting conditions that you have. You can also "steam a rat" if you are so inclined.
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post #1091 of 2915
12/5/06 at 2:52pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by raab View Post

I hope the owners aren't too busy enjoying their sets, and the pros haven't moved onto the next new thing just yet...

I just got my new set today, and even though I owned last years top-end 1080p offering for a few weeks (returned due to RBE) I'm very impressed, and really happy that I finally found what I've been looking for. Now that I have it, and have had a bit of time to play with the settings, I've developed a few questions for the other owners and pros still in the thread.

First thing I did OTB was to change the settings on all of my inputs to match Eliab's earlier suggestions. I found that, on all inputs (that I'm currently running devices to), that these suggestions were pretty far off for my eye. My copy of DVE is in in the mail, so I'm only able to adjust things to personal preferences for now. My Cable/DVR box is hooked up via HDMI->HDMI, and I have it set to movie mode and DNR off as per Eliab's suggestions. However, I've found the need to up the contrast to 58, due to the rather small sweet spot. Then I only had to change channels to a HD hockey broadcast to realize the suggested Warm2 color tone was far too red, and 'Normal'/'Cool1' seemed to give a much more accurate white, while keeping flesh tones a proper color. I have a Wii on video and a PS2 on component. I've set both to 'Game' mode, Cool1, and bumped up the brightness and contrast even further. Should I be worried that my settings are so far off the general recommended settings of a forum pro? A calibration tour is coming through in 4 months, and I plan on taking full advantage. Until then, I want to make sure nothing is wrong with my set before my 30 day return period is up. Don't get me wrong, the set looks absolutely fantastic, but either it's a much different set than Eliab managed to get his hands on, there's something wrong with the set, or there's something wrong with my eyes.

Thanks to you all for the help and support I've received here over the years. Now it's time for me to spend a few years browsing the Receiver/Speaker/Subwoofer forums

Mwahaha! Another person who doesn't like Warm2! A few of us on this forum have also gone with Normal or Cool1, so don't feel bad. I felt a little guilt about it, but now I'm convinced that Eliab is color-blind (just kidding!). Aside from the Warm2 setting, my settings are very close to Eliab's after running the DVE calibration, which btw seemed awfully short to me. Oh and, Eliab says to leave Sharpness at 0 for Samsung DLPs, despite what his more general-audience DVE tutorial says.
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post #1092 of 2915
12/6/06 at 4:17pm
Hi all. I have been reading the posts here for sometime and am very impressed with the knowledge and good information. I just moved and am ready to purchase my new set. Unfortunately I live in NYC and can not find a show room to evaluate teh 5679 vs teh 6187 or 5687.

I am not concerned with the price, just want the best set. Can any of you help with advantages regarding picture quality between the two lines. My sense is the 5679 is slightly clear while the 87 series is slightly brighter. Any thoughts and discussion is appreciated. Thanks!!!
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post #1093 of 2915
12/6/06 at 4:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adge26 View Post

Unfortunately I live in NYC and can not find a show room to evaluate teh 5679 vs teh 6187 or 5687.

It's too bad you live in a HDTV backwater.

I have it on good authority that Eliab will post a review of the HL-Sxx79 that he just purchased at the end of the month or a little later. He also has a review (part 1 of 2) of the HL-Sxx88 models. The HL-S7188 has the same characteristics.

They share in common several features that the HL-Sxx87 and HL-Sxx67 models do not have. How important those differences are depends on how you will use the set.

The lamp based sets are slightly brighter but if you read the calibration reports that are linked at the bottom of my post you will find that in normal home situations brightness has to be reduced on all these sets.

I think that Eliab will find out and report (early January!) that the HL-S5679 calibrates even better than his "best ever" review of the "88" models. He will probably also find that the CR isn't quite as good. I don't have any idea which one he will think has the best overall PQ.

The other difference is that the HL-S5679 is LED instead of lamp based. For that reason it has no color wheel to make noise in the future or to cause a small percentage of folks to see rainbows.

Here is a link to Part I.

Samsung HL-S xx87/88 DLP Consumer Report Part I

Eliab isn't far from you and you can contact him through his web site or do a PM here at AVS. He may know were to find what you are looking at and can give you an insight into PQ differences as he sees them.

Good luck.
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post #1094 of 2915
12/6/06 at 9:38pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by tg2k View Post

Mwahaha! Another person who doesn't like Warm2! A few of us on this forum have also gone with Normal or Cool1, so don't feel bad. I felt a little guilt about it, but now I'm convinced that Eliab is color-blind (just kidding!). Aside from the Warm2 setting, my settings are very close to Eliab's after running the DVE calibration, which btw seemed awfully short to me. Oh and, Eliab says to leave Sharpness at 0 for Samsung DLPs, despite what his more general-audience DVE tutorial says.

As I've stated on numerous occasions, there are instances where the Warm2 color tone is actually at around 6000k which is too warm. In such cases the Warm1 or Normal color tone may actually be a lesser of two evils.

Regarding sharpness, it is actually placebo on most of these sets if DNIe is turned off.

Eliab
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post #1095 of 2915
12/6/06 at 9:41pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Adge26 View Post

Hi all. I have been reading the posts here for sometime and am very impressed with the knowledge and good information. I just moved and am ready to purchase my new set. Unfortunately I live in NYC and can not find a show room to evaluate teh 5679 vs teh 6187 or 5687.

I am not concerned with the price, just want the best set. Can any of you help with advantages regarding picture quality between the two lines. My sense is the 5679 is slightly clear while the 87 series is slightly brighter. Any thoughts and discussion is appreciated. Thanks!!!

While the 5679 doesn't quite have the contrast ratio of the regular lamp based models, it produces a slightly better image after it's been calibrated. Two of the biggest improvements would be the exclusion of the rainbow effect and near perfect color decoding.

Eliab
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post #1096 of 2915
12/7/06 at 6:27am
How do I/Is it possible to properly calibrate my STB DVR (HDMI) connection? Can I just copy the DVE calibrated settings from my other HDMI (DVD) connection?
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post #1097 of 2915
12/7/06 at 8:55am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eliab View Post

As I've stated on numerous occasions, there are instances where the Warm2 color tone is actually at around 6000k which is too warm. In such cases the Warm1 or Normal color tone may actually be a lesser of two evils.

Regarding sharpness, it is actually placebo on most of these sets if DNIe is turned off.

Eliab

Eliab, just to confirm: You've really seen this amount of variation in the LED-based HL-S5679Ws? I somehow thought the LED sets would be more uniform in lighting than the bulb-based sets.
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post #1098 of 2915
12/7/06 at 1:38pm
I just had my set calibrated by David Abrams from Avical Video System Specialists(www.avical.com), and the results were well worth it.

Before the calibration I was doing the movie mode thing like others due to the banding, and after the calibration it looks amazing in all modes.

The light output before cailibration was 39.6 fL and 82.8 fL after.

Definitely recommend the calibration if anyone is on the fence.

roland
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post #1099 of 2915
12/7/06 at 3:45pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolandschemers View Post

I just had my set calibrated by David Abrams from Avical Video System Specialists(www.avical.com), and the results were well worth it.

I've just added your report to the list that is linked at the bottom of my post.

Quote:


Dynamic mode is now his recommended setting.

I think that these sets can be calibrated in any mode to get the same results. Whenever the SM is entered, the set returns to Dynamic Mode automatically. By calibrating your set in Dynamic Mode, you can enter and exit the SM without having to change modes.

Did David calibrate one of the other modes for black and white films?
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post #1100 of 2915
12/7/06 at 4:00pm
Quote:


I think that these sets can be calibrated in any mode to get the same results. Whenever the SM is entered, the set returns to Dynamic Mode automatically. By calibrating your set in Dynamic Mode, you can enter and exit the SM without having to change modes.

yeah, what I meant to convey was no (or very minimal) color banding in other modes now. I tried to pull up some bad content I had on my Tivo that used to exhibit a lot banding and didn't notice any.

Quote:


Did David calibrate one of the other modes for black and white films?

His report says dynamic mode "cool 1" for normal color viewing, and dynamic mode with "warm 2" for B&W films. I'm guessing I could just set another mode to "warm 2" and use that mode for B&W without having switch from cool1/warm2 in the menu.
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post #1101 of 2915
12/7/06 at 4:42pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolandschemers View Post

yeah, what I meant to convey was no (or very minimal) color banding in other modes now. I tried to pull up some bad content I had on my Tivo that used to exhibit a lot banding and didn't notice any.

How about using the edit button on your original message and add your banding information. I think that people reading the calibration reports would like to read what you have to say.

Quote:


His report says dynamic mode "cool 1" for normal color viewing, and dynamic mode with "warm 2" for B&W films. I'm guessing I could just set another mode to "warm 2" and use that mode for B&W without having switch from cool1/warm2 in the menu.

I would do what David wrote unless you contact him about your idea. You can also add this information to your original post.

Thanks for the report. There are a lot of people very interested in the LED sets, including me!

Enjoy.
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post #1102 of 2915
12/7/06 at 6:04pm
SOUNDANDVISION & HOMETHEATHERMAG both have reviews for the HL-S5679W.
S&V Seemed to give it an ok review.
HTM gave the 5679 a much better review and seemed much more impressed with it.
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post #1103 of 2915
12/8/06 at 2:04am
so is there any larger then 56" LED set in the works by samsung or any manufac? how long? prob not soon enough as thelongest i can wait is Jan. and prob getting a reg non led samsung dlp set this weekend. but will be from retailer i can return it to if i have a problem or led version comest out etc.

but my bro is def looking for the 56" led dlp. what are some of the best local b and m stores and also online merchants to get it from?
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post #1104 of 2915
12/8/06 at 8:16am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quatre View Post

so is there any larger then 56" LED set in the works by samsung or any manufac? how long? prob not soon enough as thelongest i can wait is Jan. and prob getting a reg non led samsung dlp set this weekend. but will be from retailer i can return it to if i have a problem or led version comest out etc.

An earlier msg here indicated that Samsung will be releasing a 61" in the spring and word is that Nuvision will likely do similar.
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post #1105 of 2915
12/8/06 at 11:01am
Before I call Magnolia and schedule a service call, I thought I'd see if any of you have seen this or know what it is.

I've had my HLS5679 for about a week now, and it's working great, except for one minor thing.

Twice, so far, shortly after turning on, I lose the right half of the screen. Nothing shows up. Not signal nor built-in menu items. Both times, I turned off the unit, waited 30 seconds and powered it back up, which got it working again.

Does this unit have two lamps? Any ideas on things I should check before calling for support?

Thanks,

Marc
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post #1106 of 2915
12/8/06 at 11:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by marclallen View Post

I've had my HLS5679 for about a week now, and it's working great, except for one minor thing.

Exchange it.

Quote:


Twice, so far, shortly after turning on, I lose the right half of the screen. Nothing shows up. Not signal nor built-in menu items. Both times, I turned off the unit, waited 30 seconds and powered it back up, which got it working again.

Quote:


Does this unit have two lamps?

It has zero lamps. What it has are three clusters of LEDs. Each "cluster" has it's own color -- either red, green, or blue. All three clusters provide light for the entire screen. If one was out the others would still light up the entire screen. MUUC

Quote:


Any ideas on things I should check before calling for support?

Don't call support at all. Call the manager where you bought your set, and ask him to exchange it. He will during the first thirty days, and at Magnolia Audio-Video he would probably do an exchange after the thirty days were up.

If you bought from a BB Magnolia Home Theater department they will exchange your set too.

A field repaired set is not a blessing that you need or should accept.
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post #1107 of 2915
12/8/06 at 11:48am
anyone have an idea when the next generation DLP are coming out? I am thinking about getting a new TV for my bedroom probably closer to 40' and want to make sure that I do not get a TV then a month later a new one comes out
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post #1108 of 2915
12/8/06 at 12:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by vorgusa View Post

anyone have an idea when the next generation DLP are coming out? I am thinking about getting a new TV for my bedroom probably closer to 40' and want to make sure that I do not get a TV then a month later a new one comes out

Announcements start at the CES show in early January and continue through the Spring. New models start arriving in stores in early Summer and continue into the Fall.
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post #1109 of 2915
12/8/06 at 1:02pm
Ok, then, how does half a screen go out? What is there that controls one side of a screen and not the other?

Marc
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post #1110 of 2915
12/8/06 at 1:08pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by marclallen View Post

Ok, then, how does half a screen go out? What is there that controls one side of a screen and not the other?

Marc

You're in the wrong place for that information. Knowing why isn't going to change your situation.

If you assume that somewhere in the image processing path there is a chip or firmware messing up you will probably be right.

An engineer at Samsung might be able to tell you. A well informed repair technician might know which component to switch out, but most of them would have to ask Samsung.
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