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Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK) - Page 70

post #2071 of 2915
2/1/08 at 1:24pm
can i have 360 and wii playing in PIP? i want the left side to be 360 using composite and the wii using one of the AV slots. but i don't know how to select the AV ports as the 2nd display. it will only do the tuner
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post #2072 of 2915
2/2/08 at 3:32pm
Thanks for the info on the capacitors, I was convinced our TV was having a power supply issue, but since those 2 capacitors are kind of hidden unless you remove the board I did not notice them the first time I took the back off.

I replaced both, and bottom mounted CS860 to avoid removing the heat sink. The TV now works like new! Very worth the effort for only $3 in parts.

I put together a page with notes from my experience and pictures:
www . bking01 . com/Samsung_HLS5679.htm
(remove spaces around .'s - this is my first post, it wont allow a url)
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post #2073 of 2915
2/4/08 at 1:01pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mapex View Post

can i have 360 and wii playing in PIP? i want the left side to be 360 using composite and the wii using one of the AV slots. but i don't know how to select the AV ports as the 2nd display. it will only do the tuner

You can only do OTA w/ the PIP. It makes it a lot less useful.
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post #2074 of 2915
2/13/08 at 6:12pm
anyone figure out how to get the deeper blacks that all the non movie modes have in the service menu?
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post #2075 of 2915
2/15/08 at 1:39pm
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mapex View Post

anyone figure out how to get the deeper blacks that all the non movie modes have in the service menu?

Wesley Hester worked pretty hard early on to get deeper blacks but eventually settled on bias lighting, AFAIK, to improve the perceived black levels.
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post #2076 of 2915
2/16/08 at 6:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by klac View Post

Wesley Hester worked pretty hard early on to get deeper blacks but eventually settled on bias lighting, AFAIK, to improve the perceived black levels.

The HL-S5679W was my first DLP and coming off of using a Rear-Projection CRT for 4-5 years, the black level caught me off guard. From what I read before purchase, DLPs can have darker black level the LCDs. I've found this to be conditionally true. I got "use to" DLP in about 2 months or so. Now, I don't think about it anymore.

Currently, I've got some new capacitors on order from Parts Express to cure my "clicking" problem. My set is out of warranty so this will save me a boatload of cash. I would like to give a special thanks to everyone who posted information on this subject: very helpful. Fortunately for me, my "clicking" doesn't happen when starting the HDTV in cable or air mode. I just have to let the set 'warm up' for 5 to 10 minutes before using ANY of the inputs. If I do say, use the HDMI or PC input before the warm up time, the clicking starts. I can currently stop it and allow the HDTV to come on by simply turning the power off of the device inputting to the set. In this way, I've lived with the issue longer. However, I've grown tired of not being about to use video components right away and look forward to fixing the problem.

Still like and enjoy the HL-S5679W. Still wish Samsung hadn't broke it off in me with the price and released much cheaper and better sets less than 6 months too!
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post #2077 of 2915
2/18/08 at 12:03pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by mooninite View Post

Get your set replaced. The 5689 will be a much better set and they have already fixed the issues in the latest made sets. Yes, you will get another year of Samsung's warranty. I've been through the process three times... haven't paid a dime for a TV in over a year.

I did this and wish I hadn't. The replacement HL-T5689 had RBE, albeit only red and green, but RBE nonetheless. I only got a 3 month Samsung extension. In the end, Samsung bought back my TV. The Customer Relations side was absolutely horrible. Now I know why their transaction numbers are 10 digits. Also, the HL-T5689 had these horrible cracking sounds in the case.

All in all, I wish I would have known about the crap-cap problem with my old 5679......I even have the caps on hand from replacing them in other equipment. Since I am susceptible to RBE, I think I'm just going to go back to a 32" CRT until something better comes along.
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post #2078 of 2915
2/19/08 at 11:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

The HL-S5679W was my first DLP and coming off of using a Rear-Projection CRT for 4-5 years, the black level caught me off guard. From what I read before purchase, DLPs can have darker black level the LCDs. I've found this to be conditionally true. I got "use to" DLP in about 2 months or so. Now, I don't think about it anymore.

Currently, I've got some new capacitors on order from Parts Express to cure my "clicking" problem. My set is out of warranty so this will save me a boatload of cash. I would like to give a special thanks to everyone who posted information on this subject: very helpful. Fortunately for me, my "clicking" doesn't happen when starting the HDTV in cable or air mode. I just have to let the set 'warm up' for 5 to 10 minutes before using ANY of the inputs. If I do say, use the HDMI or PC input before the warm up time, the clicking starts. I can currently stop it and allow the HDTV to come on by simply turning the power off of the device inputting to the set. In this way, I've lived with the issue longer. However, I've grown tired of not being about to use video components right away and look forward to fixing the problem.

Still like and enjoy the HL-S5679W. Still wish Samsung hadn't broke it off in me with the price and released much cheaper and better sets less than 6 months too!

I am having the same issue now with my HL-S5679W, can you please give me details on how to fix this issue and if you are still having the problem?

This is driving me crazy!!!!
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post #2079 of 2915
2/21/08 at 8:46am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mbrucedogs View Post

I am having the same issue now with my HL-S5679W, can you please give me details on how to fix this issue and if you are still having the problem?

This is driving me crazy!!!!

There's a link in the first post...

Quote:


FAQs:
1. LED light engine replaces the UHP bulb and color wheel.
2. Only available in 56".
3. RBE is assumed to be eliminated.
4. Stated power consumption 230W / Measured consumption ~180W (Details).
5. There is very little fan noise - it is only detectable from the side air vent at close range.
6. Overscan will remain off. (How To)
7. Starter Settings
8. ***How to fix the power cycling issue
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post #2080 of 2915
2/23/08 at 9:47am
Well, I've just fixed mine. A special thank you to everyone who contributed information, guides and pictures without whom it wouldn't of have been possible otherwise.

I ended up using Parts Express #020-1716 2200uF 16V High Temp Radial Capacitors in both locations mentioned. Only one of my caps was bowed out alot and had signs of leaking. The other had just a slight bow at the top. I of course replaced it too but would have missed it if I didn't know what to look for already.

I feel for anyone doing this for the first time without written steps and/or pictures.

Here is what mine ended up looking like after an hour or two:



I will be updating my website with this picture along with links to this thread and to all the resources I used (also from here) hopefully before Monday.
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post #2081 of 2915
3/6/08 at 5:58pm
I'm having issues using my remote control for this tv. Whenever I'm watching tv and try to change channels via the channel button or typing in the channels via the numbers I get a message saying 'Not available in current mode'. What does this mean? It seems everything else works but changing channels. I'm in the TV mode as far as I know. Any ideas?
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post #2082 of 2915
3/7/08 at 7:03pm
I get that as I have my cable box is not though the cable. Must have a coaxial cable with either an antenna or cable or sat direct to TV and let the TV find all channels
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post #2083 of 2915
3/19/08 at 11:01am
When I turn on my TV, the start up jingle plays and then it looks like the screen lights up and goes dark a few times before the picture appears. Is this the power cycling issue that so many people are experiencing?

Also pretty rarely one half of the screen will go black, and sometimes for a split second there will be a weird glitch, usually green and about four inches tall across the entire length of the screen, on the screen. Turning off the TV and turning it back on seems to fix the black half screen issue, but I'm hoping for a more permanent fix. I have no idea what's causing the screen glitches. Any input is greatly appreciated.
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post #2084 of 2915
3/21/08 at 4:43pm
Sounds like the power problem that has been doc.
Here's a link to pics and how to replace the two bad caps
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=2060
you will be able to tell which it is without to much problem as the bad ones will show distress and starting to explode on the top
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post #2085 of 2915
3/25/08 at 12:41pm
I just figured out that I am having the power supply issue and have ordered the caps to fix it. Do I need to leave the set off until the repair is done or can I still watch it? I don't want to completely blow a cap and cause a bigger problem.
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post #2086 of 2915
3/26/08 at 9:17am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BitBucket View Post

I just figured out that I am having the power supply issue and have ordered the caps to fix it. Do I need to leave the set off until the repair is done or can I still watch it? I don't want to completely blow a cap and cause a bigger problem.

I used mine right up to the very day I replaced the caps. However, my issue didn't seem as bad compared to the reports I read of others. Mine started up fine in cable or air mode and just clicked off/on if I changed to ANY input or if the set was originally on a input at start up (which I learned to turn it off in cable/air mode). Both of the caps I replaced didn't look as bad as some of the images I saw posted here. One was only very slightly bowed with no sign of leakage. The other was bowed with just a tiny bit of leakage.

It's been just over a month now and all is well. Love being able to start right up and use any input again so I and others don't have to wait for the set to turn on.
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post #2087 of 2915
3/26/08 at 10:59am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

I used mine right up to the very day I replaced the caps. However, my issue didn't seem as bad compared to the reports I read of others. Mine started up fine in cable or air mode and just clicked off/on if I changed to ANY input or if the set was originally on a input at start up (which I learned to turn it off in cable/air mode). Both of the caps I replaced didn't look as bad as some of the images I saw posted here. One was only very slightly bowed with no sign of leakage. The other was bowed with just a tiny bit of leakage.

It's been just over a month now and all is well. Love being able to start right up and use any input again so I and others don't have to wait for the set to turn on.

Very cool. The caps shipped today so I am hopping to get them Friday or Saturday. I got a panicky look when I mentioned that it might be best to leave it off for the rest of the week while the wife was watching "John and Kate plus 8". I guess I will run it and see what happens.
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post #2088 of 2915
4/2/08 at 8:37am
I purchased my HL-S5679W tv in June 2007. While I have had no problems, I don't have any devices connected to my tv. I just bought a HD Toshiba DVD player and will connect it with a HDMI cable. I also plan to buy a DVD recorder. My question is: "Do all 5679 tvs eventually have problems with the 2 capacitors?" Will Samsung replace these capacitors before you have a problem? Are there any other problems that are very common for this tv?
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post #2089 of 2915
4/2/08 at 1:49pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

I used mine right up to the very day I replaced the caps. However, my issue didn't seem as bad compared to the reports I read of others. Mine started up fine in cable or air mode and just clicked off/on if I changed to ANY input or if the set was originally on a input at start up (which I learned to turn it off in cable/air mode). Both of the caps I replaced didn't look as bad as some of the images I saw posted here. One was only very slightly bowed with no sign of leakage. The other was bowed with just a tiny bit of leakage.

It's been just over a month now and all is well. Love being able to start right up and use any input again so I and others don't have to wait for the set to turn on.

It didn't matter because mine went from not bad (would still turn on in a min. or so) to longer than 10 min so we just turned it off. I got the caps on Saturday and fixed it in about 20 min. on Sunday and now I think it turns on as fast or faster than it did brand new. Looks just like the pic that Wesley Hunter posted.

Thanks to Klac, Wesley Hunter and the others that posted on how to do this, saved me a bunch of cash.

Cheers,
bitbucket
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post #2090 of 2915
4/22/08 at 11:28am
Alright, I've had this TV for 10 months and it still works great, but I have a slightly different problem.

The TV pops from settling now. It's the same kind of creaking and popping you would hear as a house settles. Has anyone else had this happen with this TV, or even another large projection TV?

The TV still works great, but the creaks and pops from the settling are so annoying! Will this maybe go away eventually after it settles?
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post #2091 of 2915
4/22/08 at 11:36am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheArcher View Post

Alright, I've had this TV for 10 months and it still works great, but I have a slightly different problem.

The TV pops from settling now. It's the same kind of creaking and popping you would hear as a house settles. Has anyone else had this happen with this TV, or even another large projection TV?

The TV still works great, but the creaks and pops from the settling are so annoying! Will this maybe go away eventually after it settles?

Are you sure it is the TV and not the stand or something? Does it stop after it is warmed up or does it do it continually? Does it get direct sun from a window in the afternoon (is the case getting hot)?
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post #2092 of 2915
4/22/08 at 11:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheArcher View Post

Alright, I've had this TV for 10 months and it still works great, but I have a slightly different problem.

The TV pops from settling now. It's the same kind of creaking and popping you would hear as a house settles. Has anyone else had this happen with this TV, or even another large projection TV?

The TV still works great, but the creaks and pops from the settling are so annoying! Will this maybe go away eventually after it settles?

Mine has creaked and popped since I got it, and still does. Our floor is a little bouncy, so it does it a lot when walking near it. I was annoyed at first, now I just ignore it.
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post #2093 of 2915
4/22/08 at 12:00pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by stans39 View Post

I purchased my HL-S5679W tv in June 2007. While I have had no problems, I don't have any devices connected to my tv. I just bought a HD Toshiba DVD player and will connect it with a HDMI cable. I also plan to buy a DVD recorder. My question is: "Do all 5679 tvs eventually have problems with the 2 capacitors?" Will Samsung replace these capacitors before you have a problem? Are there any other problems that are very common for this tv?

Unless they changed the design, I would guess that it will happen to every TV at some point. I doubt they would fix the problem before it starts.
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post #2094 of 2915
4/25/08 at 9:51am
Quote:
Originally Posted by BitBucket View Post

Are you sure it is the TV and not the stand or something? Does it stop after it is warmed up or does it do it continually? Does it get direct sun from a window in the afternoon (is the case getting hot)?

I'm sure it's not the stand. It's the TV. It doesn't get sun exposure during anytime of the day either. It does it a lot after I turn it on or off. That first hour on or off it does it a lot so I'm betting that it's the expanding and contracting from the heat when it's on or off.

That doesn't change the fact that it's annoying as hell.
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post #2095 of 2915
5/2/08 at 6:12pm
I've had mine for over a year now, it pops too!! about once a day, like its settling into the wood or something. I thought it was just me, but its so rare I barely ever notice.
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post #2096 of 2915
5/8/08 at 11:05am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taokane View Post

I've had mine for over a year now, it pops too!! about once a day, like its settling into the wood or something. I thought it was just me, but its so rare I barely ever notice.

Well at least I'm not alone! lol

Eh, as the days pass by I notice it less and less. It still pops, but I just don't notice it near as much.
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post #2097 of 2915
5/16/08 at 12:05pm
i'm getting a new light engine...yayyyy or "tube" as samsung apparently calls it
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post #2098 of 2915
6/11/08 at 8:00am
Recently,I changed eight of eleven caps next to / under the heat sink...five were
bulged at top becuz set owner hit power on 50 or more times to turn on! No harm to set,
after PS overhaul,set worked perfecto!
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post #2099 of 2915
6/24/08 at 9:06am
Does anyone have the full list of replacement capacitors for the power board? I figure if I'm going to dive into the board, I may as well replace them all...seeing that they are pretty poor in quality. I'm trying to avoid opening up the tv before I order the caps

I need this pretty soon, any help greatly appreciated!

kumar
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post #2100 of 2915
6/26/08 at 9:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by ktpisme View Post

Does anyone have the full list of replacement capacitors for the power board? I figure if I'm going to dive into the board, I may as well replace them all...seeing that they are pretty poor in quality. I'm trying to avoid opening up the tv before I order the caps

I need this pretty soon, any help greatly appreciated!

kumar

I'll check the service manual for a list but I can't remember if there is one in it or not though. Maybe the schematics have the values. Either way, I'll private message you later today.
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