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Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK) - Page 75

post #2221 of 2935
I talked with samsung parts dept and was told old board is not axailable anymore and the new listing they show is part # BP94-02258B price is 545.14
I am waiting on Amex to finish claim in the meantime I fixed old board myself.(thanks to all the great advice posted by others on this site)
It had 2 large 2200uf 25v caps bulging and leaking as well as 1 of the 1500uf10v bad and 3 of the 1000uf 25v caps bad. I replaced all 8 with 2 large at same values and others as recommended in this forum so far so good.May order replacement board when amex comes through would be intresting to see whats been changed to justify almost 400 dollar differance in cost.
post #2222 of 2935
I own HLS5679W for now 2 years. Didnt have any problem upto recently. My tv is under an extended warranty thru Tigerdirect.com. Now my tv recently powers up with no picture. What happens when i hit the powere button is the led light comes on blinking several times and i hear a bunch of clicking goiing on in the television. then the stand by light comes on followed by the led light blinking several times. It does this 3-4 times before all 3 lights (standby, led, timer) light blink consistantly till i unplug television. well the repair tech came out to troubleshoot television and said the power supply board needed to be replaced and the warrnty company instead of repairing bought out the tv sending me a check for the amount i paid for the tv. now i want to figure out whether it is the supply board or other components that need to be replaced. I dont think the service tech was femiliar with this type of tv because when i called to find out what the hold up was with the repair tech coming out. the warranty compnay said he requested a service manual for the tv. making me think that maybe he misdiagnosed the problem.....any thoughts?????
post #2223 of 2935
my post above ive been reading the thread...am i having the same problem everyone else is having...that its not my board its just the capacitors...im pretty handy so i could prob fix it myself but dont wanna replace something if there is no hope
post #2224 of 2935
where are the 4- 1000uf 25v caps located that need to be replaced with the 1000uf 35v caps????
post #2225 of 2935
see page 69. The pictures show location of all the caps.
post #2226 of 2935
My own fix. I don't think Samsung has these documented as blowing. I spoke to a TV repairman though, and he said upping the voltage would decrease the chance of them blowing again. So far since the repair, TV has been working fine for over a month.

Originally Posted by beechos View Post

my big 2200uf 25v capacitors blew any know what to use to replace them with someone earlier said they replaced it with 2200uf 50v caps is that their own fix or the offical samsung fix?
post #2227 of 2935
tried that fix and it didnt work...tv still cycling tot turn on. replaced the 1500uf with 2200uf 25v and tv is istill cycling...i did notice one of my larger caps had a slightly rounded top but no seapage was goin on..gonna try to replace that cap with a higher voltage and see what happens
post #2228 of 2935
Originally Posted by warp100 View Post

I have to warn you, you are just going to get problems again. Replacing those two capacitors just pushes the load onto the other four and fries them. I had my first two replaced under Samsung warranty about eight months ago, and now I'm out of commission again. It worked at first but, eventually they fail. I don't know if it's best to wait til you come to that bridge to cross it though.

Warp 100, thanks for your feedback. You are right. It was fine for about a week after replacing the 2 1500uF 10V capacitors with 2200uF 16V high temp capacitors, but now HDMI no longer works (when power cycling used to happen, that was also just for HDMI). I can still view TV using AV1, but not in HD. The other 4 capacitors are already shipped my way from PartsExpress (1000uF 35V high temp), so I'll try to replace them next to see if I can get it fixed. In your opinion, do you think replacing these 4 caps will fix it for a while?
post #2229 of 2935
I got through to an ECR today about the power cycle issue, but they weren't willing to talk about a replacement tv. Is it worth calling back again and talking to a different ECR?

Have most people had to have a repairman come out before a replacement was a possibility?
post #2230 of 2935
Originally Posted by AZ TV Guy View Post

Warp 100, thanks for your feedback. You are right. It was fine for about a week after replacing the 2 1500uF 10V capacitors with 2200uF 16V high temp capacitors, but now HDMI no longer works (when power cycling used to happen, that was also just for HDMI). I can still view TV using AV1, but not in HD. The other 4 capacitors are already shipped my way from PartsExpress (1000uF 35V high temp), so I'll try to replace them next to see if I can get it fixed. In your opinion, do you think replacing these 4 caps will fix it for a while?

I replaced the four 1000uF caps last night (total of 6 caps replaced), and it seems to be fixed again. The truth is, I replaced the caps last night, after which the TV wouldn't even turn on. I was about to buy a new TV today (a Sony LCD), but thought I'd pull the board one more time and do a better job of soldering. After desoldering and resoldering most of the connections, I tried it again and it turned on fine, and the HDMI inputs work fine again as well. So I'm back to HD, and hopefully it will last through the Super Bowl. Has anyone had problems after replacing the 6 capacitors mentioned?
post #2231 of 2935
Originally Posted by AZ TV Guy View Post

Warp 100, thanks for your feedback. You are right. It was fine for about a week after replacing the 2 1500uF 10V capacitors with 2200uF 16V high temp capacitors, but now HDMI no longer works (when power cycling used to happen, that was also just for HDMI). I can still view TV using AV1, but not in HD. The other 4 capacitors are already shipped my way from PartsExpress (1000uF 35V high temp), so I'll try to replace them next to see if I can get it fixed. In your opinion, do you think replacing these 4 caps will fix it for a while?

I really couldn't tell you. I think the best thing would to be keep watching this board because I'm sure we'll start hearing about it from anyone who has that problem.

As for my TV, after a month of haggling with my extended warranty service, they ended up giving me a check to buy a new HL61A750 from another store that carried it. Apparently they figured out the only replacement power supply board that's available anymore is the $500 one. The new set arrives next Saturday...and I was sure to get a 4 year warranty on it.
post #2232 of 2935
i replaced my 2 big 2200 25v caps that were blown all the others were ok and so far so good *knocks on wood* I didnt bother with replacing the other ones since they were ok i guess i can live with replacing the caps every year or so.

Be warned though if anyone has the 2200 25v caps blown the ones from partsexpress is about 40% thicker than the original one so they will barely fit. I was able to get one to fit and the other one i had to solder beneath the board.
post #2233 of 2935
I'm also having the same problem with bad capacitors as everyone else. I called and talked to ECR and asked them to fix the problem for free. They agreed to cover the cost of the parts and labor to fix this. It may help that I had this TV repaired once already under warranty when they replaced the first capacitor. The tech attached it to the bottom of the board (see pic).

I pulled my board and saw that I have 5 caps that are clearly jacked up - basically all the medium sized brown ones. 3 are oozing and two are bulged. You can see the oozing ones pretty clearly in the pic. I'm going to send the pic to the repair place ahead of time so they know which caps are blown and can avoid a second trip. I probably could do the repair myself, but now if the repair gets screwed up, it's their problem not mine. Plus, with so many blown caps, they may want to replace the board completely.

BTW, I got zero resistance from ECR asking for a free repair. I was done within 5 minutes. Other than this problem with the bad caps, I love this TV. I just hope they can get it done before the Superbowl. I already had to cancel my party since I wasn't sure my TV would be working. Hope this pic helps.

post #2234 of 2935
I have had this problem for the last like 6 months and it is getting to the point of being unbearable. I have the shakes way too much to comfortably solder the new capacitors in and I really think that Samsung should fix this issue as it is so wide spread. I am kind of a customer service noob and I couldn't get higher on the CS scale than the first woman who suggested that my problem was probably the sleep timer.

Any pointers on how to get to the ECRs?
post #2235 of 2935
That shows you how much the people that work in customer service actually know about the electronics they are responsible for. The timer light blinks because its an error.

I just did this fix last night. All six capacitors upgraded. It took me a while to get all the screws out of the heat sink and I had to go buy a 40w iron instead of the 25w I initially got because it would not melt the solder on the heat sink. I got it all back together and it works. Its been so long since it worked correctly that I don't remember how it came on before. It now makes the melody sound and lights up the LED light and then flicks back to the standby, without making the clicking sound like it did when it was haveing the power cycle issue, the it goes back to LED and TIMER flashes and the TV is on. It comes on in about 3-4 seconds. Which is what I think it always did. I just don't remember all the light flashing.

Also when looking at the caps toward the heat sink the large capacitor on the left 2200uf 25v looked like it may have been ever so slightly bulged. Has anyone seen this before?

Have I fixed my TV or just postponed it dying?

On a side note my friend had an 32 inch AKAI that he got from where he worked. He payed 25 dollars for it 6 months ago. It started doing the power cycling thing and finally quit working. He went out and bought a Bravia KDR. I had him bring it over last night and sure enough 3 caps on the power board were bad. We replaced them and it works like it was new. I wonder how many tvs have this problem.
post #2236 of 2935
I too had this same problem and had my caps replaced. Now the TV works again. Has anyone used the D-link feature on this unit? Can you hook up a external hardrive so that you can record shows? If so which harddrive do you recommend?

Thank you
post #2237 of 2935
Mine that I bought back in '06 just stopped working on Monday. It showed no signs of problems. The day before it was fine, then boom, nothing. Just the lights flashing and the on and off click sound. I hope this is the capacitors only. I'm off warranty and the guy that is the authorized repair man did not know anything about this model, he thought my "bulb" needed replaced! Samsung just added him two years ago, and he does not do in house work. And he said that the power board is not sold anymore and the light engine if that is what the problem is cost 900+ bucks. But I think I've found those parts MUCH cheaper on other sites.

I have no soldering experience, should I try this myself or find a friend with electrical experience and have them check it out?
post #2238 of 2935
Also, I might have to drive it to the repair tech since he does not do in home service. What would be the best way to do this? Would it be better to rent a small U-Haul cargo trailer, or just box it up and tie it up in the back of a pickup truck?
I am concerned about the pickup option. I doubt you can lay these sets on their back without damaging something. I'd rather not turn what is possibly a small easily fixable problem to a large costly one. He offered to pick it up for a charge but he said it would be a long time before he'd come here to pick it up.

Any thoughts? Thanks.
post #2239 of 2935
post #2240 of 2935
Just to update on my situation. I had the tech out today and he said the whole board was shot. He ordered a new one and he'll be back in a week. Not sure if this will be the new updated board or a refab. If the board is truly not available as some claim, I'm guessing I'll be getting a new TV.

As a side note, he mentioned that the reason the other caps blew was because the cap the other tech put on during the original warranty replacement was too high of a voltage for the other caps. Based on that info, I would suggest that anyone doing the cap replacement replace all the caps with higher voltage caps and not just the blown one(s). It may cost a few more bucks but at least you won't be popping open the TV in another year to replace the rest of the caps (or the whole board) like I have to.

So it's no SB in HD for me this year.

Once I get the new board, I'll try to snap a pic and post it so to see if its different and how it's changed.
post #2241 of 2935
jab02, I'd suggest you pull the board out of the TV and just take that. Far easier to transport that, than the whole 56" monster. The other advantage is that you should easily be able to see if it's the bad caps. If all your caps are fine, you probably need to take the whole TV. If you see a blown one, you can pretty much bet that's the problem. See my pic above for reference.

Pulling the board amounts to unscrewing 15 screws, unhooking 4 cables, and sliding the board out. Very easy. See page 65 for the instructions.
post #2242 of 2935
Wow, I didn't even consider doing that..I might have to try it. But first I have to ask, do I have to be concerned that the capacitors may be holding a charge? If so, how would I do that? I'm no electrician and want to live!
post #2243 of 2935
I think as long as you unplug the TV for a little while, you should be fine, but I'm not an electronics expert. It's unlikely you will even contact the caps anyway since the whole board is in a metal frame and it protects the condctive parts on the board. I wouldn't worry too much, but I accept no liability if you die.
post #2244 of 2935
A break from the blown caps for a moment.....

I had been tweaking in the service menu when I got the set in '06. Somehow, at the time I had reduced the edge enhancement in movie mode. Recently I went back into the SM after having not been in there for a while, and accidentilly did some type of reset (not sure, it happened so fast!) and lost some of the settings I had changed. Oddly, overscan stayed off.

Note that I am always in Movie mode, so NO DNI-E is enabled.

Anyway, somewhere in the SM I had found a way to tame the edge enhancement, but now that tweak has been reset. I don't recall where I found the setting. I spent a good deal of time scanning this thread but can't find it. Does anyone know what setting in the SM changes Edge Enhancement?
post #2245 of 2935
So... mine croaked last night. Wouldn't display an image. No clicking, but a black screen, although not black as when turned off, but black as when displaying a black image.
The green LED button is on, but the TV is unresponsive. There's no clicking, it's completely silent. When I pull the power cord and reinsert it, I do get a short burst of clicking, maybe for 1/10 of a second when inserting the power cord.
Is this the blown capacitor problem, or could this be something else?
I'm out of warranty, but should be covered under Amex's extended warranty. Does anyone have any advice on that situation? I haven't used Amex warranty before.
post #2246 of 2935
Ok, been following this thread since my 5679w stopped turning on this week. I bought the unit new from Tweeters when they went out of business in my town. June 2007 or so. That Fall, under warranty, the two 16v caps were replaced due to the power on cycling. The tech soldered one on top (normal side) of the board and one on the back. These replacements were about 1.5x longer than the originals and were 2200/10v (not 16v). Worked great until last weekend when one morning it just would not come on. No cycling, just would not come on.

So I ordered 6 of the 1000/35s and 4 of the 2200/25s (just to be safe) from PartsExpress.com - cost $19 with shipping - ordered on Tues, arrived on Thurs. I have a tech friend that was going to help me with the soldering, but I could not wait and tackled it myself. I decided not to replace the two 2200s but I could see that the 1000s were shot ( the triangular foil tops were pushed up and a couple had yellowish stuff protruding). I have a small (probably Radio Shack) soldering iron with a sharp point tip - the whole thing is about 8 inches long and has a little circular rack that you rest it on when not handling it.

I had watched the warranty tech when he replaced the two 2200s and just kind of did what he did. I touched the tip of the iron to the leg going into the solder bead on the board while holding the cap with a pair of needle nose pliers. When the solder softened, I could rock the cap a little until that leg was free to move around in its hole in the board. Then I touched the other leg and did the same until, while rocking the cap with the pliers, I could pull it free from the board. I have a set of picks from Sears (looks a little like dentists tools) that have small sharp pointed ends that I then used to slightly ream the holes where the bad cap was. Oh yeah, pay attention to the orientation of the minus sign on the side of the bad capacitors - you want to orient the new caps the same. I just fitted a new capacitor onto the board by placing the legs through the holes in the board. I put two on the normal side and two on the back. The ones on the back, I bent their legs 90 degree while keeping the legs parallel so that the whole cap would lay parallel to the face of the board and not interfere with the metal bracket. To solder, I just touched the tip of my sharp-pointed iron to the leg, close to the hole and then touch my (really thin) solder wire to the leg AT the hole until I got a nice little bead.

And that was it. I did all four. I trimmed the extra legs that were protruding through the board with some small cutter pliers, screwed the whole mess back together and it works and looks like the day we bought it.

Hope this helps.
post #2247 of 2935
trefork -

By the way, your symptoms are EXACTLY what my unit was doing. I actually got it to turn on (only twice out of maybe 100 tries) by finding that place where the plug in the back was just making contact - and then rocking the plug where I got that clicking noise almost at a somewhat constant rate. By doing this, I could hear the little blower fans come on and then three internal clicks later the fans would turn off. When I heard the fans turn on, I rocked the plug to the disconnected stage and then back on - the two time that the fan noise continued, the TV actually went ahead and turned on. Don't know what all that means because in the end, I had bad capacitors which I have successfully fixed.
post #2248 of 2935
I think this is my problem. There is also a small one underneath the heat sink that looks like it's "brains" got blown out.

So I think I'll try to take the board out and take it to the repair man. Hopefully that will work.
post #2249 of 2935
I am a bit confused by previous posts as to the ideal specs for replacement capacitors. Klac's much referenced post seems to suggest replacing 1000uf caps with 2200uf caps. I have two 1000uf caps and one 2200uf cap blown on my unit, should I just replace these with three 2200uf caps, or should I match the specs exactly, but buy a better brand?

Also what is the significance of voltage for the caps in all of this?

post #2250 of 2935
My TV was approx 17 months old with not a great deal of usage when the green light of death appeared.

I did what many have done and insisted that I speak with the ECS people. I explained that there is an entire thread regarding this problem and of course he denied everything and stated that no one on the thread worked for Samsung so it was speculation. I laughed. I did get them to extend my warranty when I finally was able to speak to ECS. They repaired it for free. I do believe the service guy only replaced 2 capacitors. He did mention that he had a service bulletin on those 2 to my wife.

Do you think it is time for a class action suit? I mean come on, they know there is a problem. Why else would they extend warranties and give new sets to some. There are many poor souls out there that won't fight and don't have the personalities to do so. With the denials for some, extensions of warranties for others and replacements for a few, the inconsistencies regarding this issue would make for a nice suit and replacements tvs for all.

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