Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK) - Page 86

I'll second waukee's question above #2547. My 5679 has been working great; of course, I replaced the two caps about 1 year go to fix the power cycling though.

Last week, I turned my tv on and I immediately noticed banding, especially green banding in dark scenes. I tried all picture modes (this banding also occurs in movie mode) and the banding occurs on both HDMI (cable and Bluray) inputs.

It almost looks cartoonish, for example a green football field almost looks like a green shimmering lake!

I believe I am out of warranty so does anyone know if this is an easy fix or the sign of something more serious? Could this be the light engine?

Thanks!

Dave

can't get to your photos. I'm trying to determine if the red shifting on mine is as severe as yours. it started a couple of months ago, and I figured it was part of the larger problem. But had it serviced last week for total failure, and they only replaced the power supply even thought the tech declared the PS and LED driver failed. it comes on without the continuous clicking of relays, but the red shift is there. tweaking color modes doesn't help, and nothing was done to change them in the first place, so this is some kind of fault unrelated to the power supply.
can you repost your photos somewhere else?

I had the power cycling problem and replaced Cs-860 & Cm-860 1500uf/10v With 2200uf/16v, and replaced several other capacitors with original specs just for the heck of it. The t.v. worked fine for about an hour and then the picture started flashing with a red tint. Only found one other person with this problem, tg2k. He had his tv replaced. Has anyone else had this flashing issue after replacing any of the capacitors? Will upgrading the other capacitors possibly help? I have been researching page by page since page seventy-two, and now am very tired, so please forgive me if this issue has already been adressed. I will resume my research to,marrow, but thought i'd go ahead and ask my question in the meantime. Any assistance will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I've searched for this scenario but still can't find the issue. Go to turn the TV on, only LED light comes up now, flashes for about 15 seconds, no picture and then the light goes away. No other lights come on except the Timer light if I try using the remote. I've tried unplugging the TV and what not with no changes. If I let the LED light blink for awhile the light stops and I can't even turn the TV off with the button on it or from the remote, the black screen still shows and I have to unplug it to turn it off.

Added note, the red Standby light no longer comes up, at all.

Anyone have a clue if I'm in the same power supply boat?

**UPDATE** Took out power supply and all caps looked just fine, anyway I can tell if its the power supply itself compared to the LED engine?

12/1/2009 Update

Based on the posts previous in this thread I made the guess that my PSU had to be swapped, I didn't see any noticeable swelling from a cap but I ordered the replacement PSU from Encompass and installed today. Worked like a charm. Thanks for keeping this thread up everyone!

Bought my set 2/07 don't remember exact date but around 12/08 had the caps go bad and replaced all the caps on the power supply board with high temp caps and incresed voltage rating, the 2 under the heat sink I put on pigtails so there not under heat sink then 2 days ago turned set on and no picture just sound turned on and off a couple of times and the blue came on, after 1 hr switched inputs tru the cycle and green came on then about a hour later the red finally came in. The set ran about 5 hours with great picture shut it off again and had to go thru same procrdure, now I'm just leaving it on. Do you all think this is power supply again?
Any help is appreciated

If you're bad with soldering or just feel like you can't do it, not all hope is lost. Despite being about a year OUT of warranty, after about a month of constant calls to samsung, and arguing that this is definitely a known problem, they pushed me up to the higher level of customer relations and are repairing the TV for free. Just keep being persistent with your complaints and eventually they should just repair it. The one thing they did ask for was a copy of the receipt, which I easily obtained from amazon. Good luck!

Hi! I'm sure this has been addressed in the last 86 pages, but I didn't see it from what I read, so I apologize in advance for repeating anything.

A week or so ago my TV stopped working and started doing the three flashing lights problem. From what I gather from reading this thread, it's a capacitor issue.

Before posting, I turned my TV on to confirm that I'm getting the lights and it started up fine. It didn't even take long to do so. It seems to be working alright.

What does this mean exactly? If a capacitor had blown, would it even be able to come on? And will continuing to use it just damage it more?

Thanks in advance. I'm freaking out!

EDIT: Could it have been a simple overheating thing? I recently pushed it back into a closet in my room, which probably isn't the best place for it, and now with my heater going my room gets kind of hot. Could it be working because it's cooled down?

I think the issue at first is intermittent; but will start to happen more and more.

By the way, I am waiting on my power board from encompass; due to the blown capacitor issue. Hopefully it will work.

Well, if you go back to nov/14/08 you'll see my post where I fixed two of the 2200uf's; sure enough today (dec/13/09) the TV doesn't turn on; this time instead of power cycling, I get three flashing lights.

Pulled her apart again and sure enough, the other 4 1000uf's are all bulging and oozing.

Rushed out to rat shack and grabbed the last 4 1000uf's they had; two axials, two radials. Did the trick; but I'm wary that there's still a few other craptastic questionable caps in there. I'm going to order the lot and be pre-emptive; I know that if I don't, they're going to pick the US v Russia olympic hockey game to blow.

Anyways; just posting to point out - a few caps are not enough. Do them -all-. You may get your set working but it's still a ticking bomb.

And again, thanks to everyone's info. When's that class action suit coming?

I purchased the TV in March 2007...The first break down occurred around Sept. 2008... A few months out of Samsungs regular warranty. I had a Samsung Tech come out and fix it... They spoke poor English though... I mentioned I believed it was just a power-cycling issue I read about on AVS Forums and that the capacitors just needed replaced. They didn't appear to understand or pretended not to understand what I was talking about. They proceeded to order a new powerboard and another part. They charged me $575 for everything and the TV worked....

I didn't complain too much because at the time I was under my Mastercard 2 year extended warranty so I was refunded the full $575 by my credit card company. Now fast-forward another year and a few months.. And low and behold the exact thing happened again.

First I'm watching TV and the sound goes off.... I switch sources turn off and on the TV... Then a message pops up CHECK FAN #3. (Same thing happened last time). Then I turn off the TV and it won't turn back on again. It just makes a clicking sound intermittantly and flashes the LED light alternating with the red standby on the power button. (I never get any warning beyond that before it won't turn on... I've read some people on here have the TV take longer to turn on over time). Mine never clicked or had trouble turning over before without warning the sound on the unit goes off.. check fan #3 comes on.. and it won't turn on. I have a feeling the power to FAN #3 is cut when a fan blows.. and the TV to avoid over-heating stops functioning.)

*****
It's obvious the powerboard that was replaced was just as faulty as the original.... Now I'm out of my credit card warranty also...

Any suggestions? Since I went to a Samsung Tech last time and it broke again will Samsung help me out? If i explain I spent well over $2000 for a TV that won't last 3 years... without breaking twice?

The TV is in perfect shape aside from it not turning on... I am not putting any more money into this TV unless it's under $100 to replace the capacitors... I read some people just bring in the power board to a repair shop and have them solder on new capacitors?

Is it pretty simple to remove the power board? Last time they replaced the power board and it still wouldn't turn on at first... Then they had to replace some other part also in the back middle left of the unit. It looked like a smaller board, I'll have to check the receipt to see what it was.. But it was a $100 part.

Anyway... unless Samsung helps me out I'm never buying a Samsung product again.. This was a disastrous experience.

Anyone on this forum that can recommend a someone to replace the capacitors for me in the Los Angeles/Hollywood area? I won't have time to get it fixed until the New Year...

Samsung is #*$%. I just got off the phone with customer support and ECS (executive customer service). "Sorry but we cannot help you because you are no longer covered by warranty"

I bought my TV July 15th of 2007. I had to get my DMD board replaced in 08/2012. As of 12/15/09, my power supply board is going to have to be replaced. I took out my board yesterday and it too has the blown capacitors.

I have ordered the replacment parts thanks to all the helpful information in this thread. This will save me a lot of money. I will not be buying a Samsuck again!

Ordered my board from encompass last Thursday, arrived on Friday, and I was watching my TV within 10 minutes. This was a quick and easy fix (minus the $95 for the power board). Thank you everyone for all of your guidance.

So I'm ready to order the capacitors and I wanted to make sure I had everything in order before I go through with it.

So I should replace the 2 1500uf 10volts with these ones and the 4 1000uf 25volts with these ones? Should replacing those six fix the problem?

Also, what was that that was said about putting them on the bottom of the board? Is this because there's more room?

Thanks in advance!

Don't know about which specific caps, but as to your second question, putting them on the bottom is due to the heatsink being the possible cause of the melting problems. This puts them on the other side of the board, away from the heatsink.

I looked at the owners thread for this TV and discovered it was common to have the capacitors for the power supply board fail after around 2-years and cause power cycling issues until final failure. There are many, many people with the same problem - some replaced the capacitors and some replaced the board.

After reading about the capacitors, I took the back cover off and removed the PS board - there were 2-caps bulged so much that they were touching the heat sink, and a third was leaking at the top. I was unable to see the cap bottoms, so there may have been many more failing.

This is a link for what seems to be where most of the owners are purchasing their replacement power supply boards: encompassparts.com/products/?SMGBP96-01494A


I ordered a new board from Encompass, 1 1/2 weeks and 90-dollars later I installed the new power supply circuit boars and voila . . . I have a NEW TV once again. Everything is working again. I did notice that the CAPCOM capaictors were replaced by Sam Young brand capacitors . . . . hmmmmmm?? I hope that the Sam Young are more reliable. Has anyone here had the Sam Youngs fail??

I put a cooling fan on the cover opposite the power board, see my post of October 28. It works great and hopefully will prevent any problems with the replacement power board. The only change to the 10/28 post is that I ordered a quieter fan from Newegg (can't even hear it running) and when I put that fan on, did cut out a round opening on the cover so that the airflow is not restricted by going thru the slots on the cover.

Were their voltages on the capacitors? I'm sure the brand being Sam Young is less important than comparing the specs of the capacitors on the new board from the old board? Are the voltage/wattage specs different?

I'd really like to know because I was going to

A) bring the powerboard into a repair shop and have them replace/solder on better capactiors.

B) order the encompass board for $80... and hope the capacitor problems have been addressed.

Anyone buy a new Encompass board and compare the capacitors onnew board vs. old board?

Thanks so much..

One other thing.... The first time my 5769W broke in Sept 2008 they replace the Main Bower Board.. and it still wouldn't work.. Then they replaced the SUB power board and it worked.

I looked on encompass and oddly the Sub Power board is more expensive than the main power board. A year ago when a Samsung Tech replaced them he charged me $250 for the main power board.. And $100 for the Sub power board. I guess I'll just buy the Main Power Board.. hope that works.. and buy the sub power board if it doesn't work....

Atleast this way i have backup boards... The Samsung Tech didn't let me keep the original board. I'm sure he made a killing by changes the caps on my "broken board" and using it in another clients tv. I'm actually very upset with the lack of honesty by the Samsung techs... if not honesty.. then complete ignorance to this KNOWN power cycling issue. They never should have charged me $570 for a repair that lasted a year and a few months.

Can you return Encompass parts if they dont' work?

****
As a last resort I wrote a formal complaint to the President of Samsung N.A.. ECR will provide you with the address when you ask where you can send a formal complaint to.....
*****

I'd love to have the address you sent a formal complaint to? If you know of an email address of their customer service where I can attach a PDF.. I have all my repairs and receipts condensed in a PDF so email would be preferable.

thx

Just wanted to thank everyone for posting. It is because of this thread and all the people who posted information I was able to have my TV fixed 3 times quickly and cheaply. But now that my TV has crapped out a fourth time, not capacitor related, I checked, I'm finally throwing in the towel. My HLS-5679W is now going in the trash. It's because of this TV I'll never buy another samsung television and am now awaiting the arrival of my new Toshiba. Goodbye all, it's been an education.

Argh. This is the 3rd problem I've had with the 5679w in the last 2 1/2 years.

First it was the power cycling problem. This was repaired.
Then in October 2009, the unit would turn on, but there was no sound or picture. A crappy tv repairman that I got through the Samsung website came and replaced part# BP96-01494A (I believe this is the main power board?). This bozo who barely spoke English charged $245 for labor, despite it taking him like 10 mins to pop out the old board and pop in the new bone.

Here is the part I need your advice on: Recently, I have noticed some green "shadows" that sort of shimmer/flicker on the screen. They are present when watching cable, Blu-ray, or playing Xbox. I don't know what the cause of this is, but do you think this is related to the main power board (i.e. part# BP96-01494A)? The reason I wonder is because the repairman states that there is a 90 day warranty on parts, so if the problems IS related to the power board, then I will get this guy to come back and replace the board for free. However, if this is from another problem, I'm not going to bother with this crappy repairman...Please, I'd love your advice!

Thanks,
Steven
sl7z@hotmail.com

Both my brother and I purchased this set in July of 2007. We have been having the power cycling issues. I ordered the replacement boards per the suggestion. I will report after installing. Both of our TV's have not completely failed yet however they appear to be getting closer daily.

Thank you all for the information you have shared. This is definitely a frustrating experience. When the TV worked normal it was excellent.

I had this issue arise last week. Pulled the power supply and found one of the 2200uf25V caps was bulging and leaking. I replaced it (temporary) with a cap from a spare circuit board I have and sure as s**t it works! Im going to order some higher quality caps and do both 2200uf25v. I replaced the other caps about a year ago and they show no visible signs of impending failure.

Jim

I've tried searching but way too many results on this thread. I'm seeing the same issue that Karg (and you) mentioned. Definitely doesn't sound like a "power cycling" issue. Is this another common problem people are noticing with these TVs?

I guess I'm going to have to open the TV up and see what's wrong inside. Sigh. =(.

What would cause these lines? They come and go....

Update... installed the board on one of the TV's and it works great! Piece of cake installation. Thanks everyone for the advice. I will report back after I install the second TV.

Any ideas on how to fix this issue?

I've had my HL-S5679W for about 2 years. I am having a couple issues with the set.
1) When I turn on the set to my HDMI input (cable box), it will usually click every couple seconds until the screen finally comes on. Occassionally the screen will be solid green, although I can still hear the audio. In the green screen case, I can just turn off the TV and turn it back on and it almost always works the next time.

2) Using component inputs from my Xbox 360, the TV will be black and it will click every couple seconds for as long as I've bothered to wait. If I pull the Green input from the component inputs, then it stops clicking. I can plug back in the Green and it resumes its clicking. After the TV has been powered up for 15-20 minutes, the component inputs work flawlessly.

Any idea what might be wrong?

is this tv 3d ready? i dont see it on any lists and my bro who owns one seems to think not and didn't see it any of the manuals etc.

is this the only samsung led dlp then that isnt' 3d ready?
shame

i wonder if it just doesnt have the 3d port on the back but could in fact still use emiterless 3d shutter glasses that use the dlp link (signal in the picture itself) to sync with the glasses.

i guess it would need the 3d mode in the menus though to turn it on...

Come on, you are kidding, right? MOST of this thread is about the problem you describe. Spend a few minutes reading and searching this thread and you will find tons of info about the problem, including how to fix it!