Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK) - Page 88

Has anyone hooked up a computer via the d-sub connection to this tv? I have a spare computer, dual-core chip, running XP, that I'd like to connect. Are there any cautions about this? Naturally I don't want to damage the tv.

I've used a PC on this HDTV for years now with Overscan turned off in the Service Menu. Remember this is an LED based DLP so burn-in is a none issue. I turn off screen savers on other devices as they aren't needed.

Resolution is good at 1920 x 1080 but 1280 x 768 is easier to read from the couch.

Hi Wesley, sounds good. Do you set the refresh at 60hz?

Also, is it ok to leave the computer on and switch back and forth between different inputs on the tv?

Thanks!

Yes and yes. Also, 1920 x 1200 is an option I believe along with some resolutions not mentioned in the manual.

Ok. I should get the d-sub cable next wk and I'll hook it up. Should be great for playing online stuff like HULU and such. Thanks again.

So.....I have lurked here for a while and fixed the power cycling issue about a year ago and now I am getting the vertical lines of death like another poster described and posted pictures of, however I now have a frozen picture on the screen as well, it look like when it switches resolutions from 1080-720 or what have you.

Anyway it's stuck like that, doesn't do anything but turn on and off no sound no nothing.

looked inside at the PSU caps are fine.

Thanks to all for warning about the capacitors on this set. I'm looking to buy a used set for $250 off Craigslist. Would you do it?

Also, the ad says it's missing the power cord. The manual makes it looks like it uses a standard three-blade computer CPU / monitor cord. Is that correct?

If I could look at the power supply and visually see bad capacitors, I would buy it...gamblig that I could fix it for less than $100. It would be worth $350 to me for parts. If this set is anywhere around Texas, I would be interested in it because need parts for my set.

You are correct on the power supply cord.

Hi I've had a problem with my power supply like many other users. after replacing the old supply with a new one I noticed the ground wire to the circuit board was not connected at the other end. Can anyone help me determine where the opposite end is suppose to be attached? I would appreciate it if anyone can help.

Hi slipknottin, I have the same issues as you do. have you had any luck fixing the flickering?

Count me in as another who had bad capacitors on the power board. My TV died a bit after 2 years about a year ago. I called Samsung and the repairman that answered said he is about to be laid off and his diagnosis was that it might be several boards and that the total cost might be ~$700. He suggested that I buy a new set. That's what I did.

Fast forward to about a week ago when a friend of mine sent me a link to the consumer affairs website with lots of complaints about bad capacitors in Samsung (mostly) LCD TVs. Eventually after some searching, I found this thread. I took out my board and it definitely had two caps discolored and puffing. I de-solder them from my board and was about to order replacement capacitors, but reading through the thread, it wasn't clear what to order (replacing the 1500uF with 2200uF?) and how many to order. I then decided to just replace the whole board (~$80 + shipping from Encompass).

The board came today. It looked like they kept with the same capacitors sizes (actually I can only read the label on one Capacitor, all the others were facing the wrong way, but they looked the same size as before) but replaced all the CapXon brand with "Sam Rogers" (I think).

I installed the board and plugged the TV back in and it powered up immediately. I am estatic. Thanks to all who have spent the time documenting this problem. I am sorry that I didn't find this thread earlier.

TV crapped out last Sat, stumbled onto this board, Found Klack's post and read what others had done, Took TV apart found a couple of blown capacitors, but since my soldering ability sucks, i decided to order the board from encompass. Got the board today, popped it in, TV fired right up!!! Thanks a bunch!!!! Klack if you are ever in SC i owe you a beer or two!! Now I am going to order some new capacitors for the old board and take it to the local electronics guy so he can solder them on and I will have a back up!!! I am also keeping my eye out for other TVs like this one that are for sale dirt cheap if they are broke!! *L* It's an EASY fix!!!

This forum is awesome. I have the exact same problem as mentioned above. I took the board out and sure enough, the capacitors were bulging. Instead of trying my hand at soldering, I just ordered a new one from encompass. I should get it this week. My wife wishes I would've found this forum prior to going overseas for a couple of months. TV just stayed up in the media room and was nothing more than decoration. Thanks guys!!!!!!

Just got the new PSB from Encompass and exchanged it with the other. TV is working great. Hopefully it continues because I would hate to go through this again. Thanks again to everyone for posting.

I use my TV for this function %99.99 of the time. Works great @ 1920x1080. Check your manual on how to properly size and adjust the screen.

Sorry for not updating sooner, but I replaced my board and the set has been working great for months now. I also bought spare capacitors and saved my old board in case I need to do this again. Thanks to everyone on this board for the help and information.

Only one headache? I say this is still a great set!

My TV stopped turning on.

I called up Samsung they insisted that the capacitor problem didn't exist. They listed off other minor issues known with the TV but said this power cycling thing is new to them and they never heard of it ever happening before.

I was told what the likely issues (nothing to do with a power supply) was and hired a repair shop.

I paid hundreds for labor and... a replacement power supply. The capacitors were clearly blown. The new power supply was designed with the capacitors moved so it doesn't happen again.

Why fix a problem that doesn't exist? I was clearly lied to.

Lawyer guy, what's going on with the class action suit?

I have the internal mute on and when I go to change the volume I get the following banner/ Please set internal mute off/

Any way to get rid of that banner?

I have been following this forum for about 3 yrs,I have 2 of these sets with all of the same problems.

Thanks,joga

I must be misunderstanding you because that doesn't make any sense. Why would you have the internal volume mute on if you're using the tv volume? And if you're using the volume from an amp, pressing the volume for that device shouldn't effect your tv at all.

Sorry about that,I just hooked up a Polk surround IHT speaker to the TV.The speaker volume is controled by the direct tv remote.I went into the TV sound menu and turned on the internal mute to have the sound come from the Polk system.Now when I want to control the volume the/PLEASE SET INTERNAL MUTE TO OFF/ tag shows up on the screen and goes away when I release the the volume control.

The volume works fine with the DTV remote but the tag is a pain.

Thanks for your response,I hope this makes more sense.

JOGA

Hi
Im new at electronics but I do fix most things myself. If I were to relocate any caps to the back of the board, do I solder now on the (brown side? and will this make a connection? or do I leave the cap raised off the board and try to solder under the cap on the green side?
Thanks for any help. DCB7

I started a poll on whether or not Sony should include the 3D Checkerboard Format as an option on its upcoming PS3 3D update. I am hoping that Sony will read the poll and give the consumer what it wants. This is a link to the poll:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1246638

Had this TV since 2007 and never had a problem always worked great and had a wonderful picture. Last night i got nothing but the Green LED light blinking. Looked it up on here went and pulled the powerboard and sure enough 4 blown caps. 3 of them with crusty brown stuff on the top(1000u) and one of them with a clear liquid between it and the heatsink(2200U).
Im not the most competent solder person in the world so i ordered a new board from encompass and once its here and running im going to give fixing this other board a shot especially since i have a feeling this wont be the last time im going to have to fix it after everything ive read here. This is the second Samsung DLP ive had go to crap on me.

OK, 2 new problems.
I replaced my main power board back in Feb, it fixed the power cycling issue.
Yesterday, turned on the TV and HORRIBLE banding on the screen. All inputs, so it's not a connector or cablebox issue. Tried a factory reset, changed the color mode(s), no help.
Also, as a side issue, my remote doesn't work. Any button I push, it (tv LED) just rapid flashes, i have to remove a battery to stop it (if it's pointed at the TV, the LED light flashes (rapidly) with it).
Suggestions?

Has anyone every had this ugly red shift?



http://picasaweb.google.com/Theo.Ben...66203194292786



It happens about 90% of the time that the TV is operating. Whites / Flesh tones will appear with a bright red hue bleeding and pushing to the right of the screen? I've seen people post about it before, but no one has answered.

I also had the power supply problem about 5 months ago, changed out the caps and worked perfectly until now. I get the problem from different sources and inputs (Analog and Digital) and includes on Screen Menus.


Thanks...

Mine looks very similar to F-16's, only my horizontal shifting is more in the green range. I've attached a pic here:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Uromasty...eat=directlink

Hey guys, new to the forum, looking for some help. I have had this TV since 2007 and have had it repaired 3 times for the screen blacking out on one half. It was fine for a long time, warranty ran out, and it is doing what it looks exactly like f16's is doing 2 posts above, only blue instead of red. There is A LOT of info in this thread, so if the answer is already here I apologize. Does anybody know what could cause this? Is it an easy fix like some of the other things here? Any help is GREATLY appreciated. Thanks!

My 5679 has started the power cycling thing and the TV is not turning on.

I am not good at soldering but could possibly remove the power module. Can anyone point me to a repair shop here in So Cal that can then change the caps for me ?

My Samsung (HLS5679WX/XAA release RE01) recently started displaying severe flickering, and a white image discoloration, which starts at the lower edge of the screen and over 5-10 minutes will spread over the entire screen. The set was purchased in Dec 06, and I replaced the power supply board about 6 months ago. Any ideas about the cause/suggestions for fixing ?

A picture of the discoloration is attached.

Thanks

My unit is from 07' and I used these forums to fix my power cycling issue about a year ago. Last night while playing some xbox I started to get this flicking issue. I figured it was the inputs so I checked those. I then thought it was the game/xbox problem, but just this morning I got some minor black screen flicking (almost like a strobe light every .5 secs or so). It happened on multiple channels as well. It eventually stopped, but I'm wondering if this is a different issue.

Anyone else with this issue? or what to try?

I followed the instructions/pictures from KLAC & was able to remove the power module. One of the cap is visibly blown & not being confident about what else to look for ordered the board from encompass.

Once, I receive it I will install & hopefully get the picture back.

Meanwhile, I am enjoying my Olevia 747i & recently purchased Sony 34xbr970.