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Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK) - Page 31

post #901 of 2915
There are 0.95 and 0.79 versions of the single chip DarkChip3 DMD by TI. The 0.95 version is native 1080p and the 0.79 is native 760p. To get 1080p from the 0.79 chip "wobulation" is necessary. I believe the chips are exactly the same with some of the micro mirrors disabled for the lower spec version. Sad really.
post #902 of 2915
Isn't the .79 chip 1280x720P?
post #903 of 2915
Well, it has been confirmed that tommorow (Oct 31st) the XBOX 360 will get the fall update with the full 1080p support the HD GAMERS have been waiting for.

So for those of you with 360's and a nice HD set .... let's try the following

1. 360 using the VGA cable into the VGA port of the TV at 1080 and see the results

2. 360 using the component. Let's see what max res we get (1080i or 1080p for some supporting sets)

3. Any overscan issues

4. PQ

5. Anything else you can think of.

PS
As many pics as you want to show us.



Full info HERE
post #904 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

I just finished calibrating one of these today. The display turned out very nice. The initial mode was Movie. The banding problem is fixable in the service mode. The weakest element of this display is the black level is higher than the lamp based HLS series products. The reports of the iris not being adjustable are also false.

Quick question: now that you've had a chance to work with this model, do these starting guidelines still hold for the 5679?

Digital NR - OFF
DNIe - Off
Mode - Movie
Contrast - 40
Brightness - 45
Sharpness - 0
Color - 45
Tint - G50/R50
Color Tone - Warm2

jdg
post #905 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

I just finished calibrating one of these today. The display turned out very nice. The initial mode was Movie. The banding problem is fixable in the service mode. The weakest element of this display is the black level is higher than the lamp based HLS series products. The reports of the iris not being adjustable are also false.

The black level has been the only issue I have ever had with my set. Colors and overall image quality look 'great to me' in Movie Mode. I believe I mentioned incorrectly about the iris not being adjustable earlier in this thread. I adjusted the controls in the Service Menu but never observed a reduction in overall light output, especially anything to improve the black level.
post #906 of 2915
First post on this thread. Ya, know . . . I'm prolly gonna be burned at the stake for giving it up to the "wobulation" thing, but I say why stop now? If they can get a "virtual" 1920X1080p from a wobulated 960X1080p chip, what could a wobulated DarkChip 3 promise? (I know that's not a new question, but I think it's a good question). I hope they keep it up! I think it's brilliant that HP came up with this technology (is anybody familiar with the story of how they got there? -- I don't know -- but my best guess is that they may have arrived there by accident; I believe that some of the best developments have been arrived at purely fortuitously; it took a person of vision to see the practical applications) . . . Anywho's . . . I think it's great that this technology is able to enhance our viewing experience at a significantly lower cost.

Back on topic; I'm not yet an owner of the HL-S5679, but I'm very interested. It's either going to be this or one of Sammy's HL-S5687w/88w series. I was very interested in UMR's first 5679 calibration report. I don't know if I can see RBEs, but I have attempted numerous violent epileptic-like head-shaking episodes at the local showroom floors and haven't come up with anything productive (surprised there hasn't been a 911 call yet). However, I fear, getting a color wheel RPTV back at home, given time, I'd be finding all new kinds of pain. To my mind the only reasons, at this point, that a 5679 purchase might be justified are 1) RBE heebie-jeebies, 2) greatly reduced background noise!!!, & 3) faster boot-up and way-longer lamp-life features (however these are three significant factors). The RBE thing, which I personally don't even know about as of yet, is my biggest concern.

I'm really thinking that a much cheaper 5687w with an ISF calibration (by UMR) may be the best way to go. I'd like to hear his (UMR's) personal opinion, but am hesitant to solicit such due my recent experience in reviewing a Sony LCOS thread . . . I was thinking that I dismissed the whole LCOS thing too prematurely and went back to review a Sony A2000 LCOS thread. I found that UMR had taken a very unjustifiable beating on that thread for only reporting his honest and experience-based views of the product. It only goes to show you how a few non-productive buttheads can spoil things for the rest of us !!!

Anywho's . . . I'd be very interested in positive reviews and encouragements from current 5679 owners. And I wouldn't dismiss reviews from 56/XX87w/88w owners (and would especially solicit comments from UMR 'bout the pros/cons of Samsung's RP lamp DMD units vs. their new LED DLP unit -- UMR, I'm sure I'll PM you in the near future, and, as I live in the DFW area, hopefully, we'll meet at some point.

I'm a noobie poster (obviously) so forgive the off-topic strays, but I've been a lurker on this forum for some time and have been into the audio half (at least) of this AV thing since the early 70's (this next one will actually be my 4th HDTV purchase). Now . . . if anyone wants to act as my sales rep for the last 10 to 25 years of warehoused AV equipment I've got stored over at my "estranged" wife's home (she threatens to give away all those purrty MacIntoshes to Salvation Army on a daily basis) let it be known ;-) !!!

-da Choge (john)
post #907 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by da Choge View Post

First post on this thread. Ya, know . . . I'm prolly gonna be burned at the stake for giving it up to the "wobulation" thing, but I say why stop now? If they can get a "virtual" 1920X1080p from a wobulated 960X1080p chip, what could a wobulated DarkChip 3 promise? (I know that's not a new question, but I think it's a good question). I hope they keep it up! I think it's brilliant that HP came up with this technology (is anybody familiar with the story of how they got there? -- I don't know -- but my best guess is that they may have arrived there by accident; I believe that some of the best developments have been arrived at purely fortuitously; it took a person of vision to see the practical applications) . . . Anywho's . . . I think it's great that this technology is able to enhance our viewing experience at a significantly lower cost.

You may have read this forum but the best answer to your question may be right on the previous page, specifically here.

As to which set to get, that can be a tough choice. I think the calibrators may still prefer the color wheel DLPs for the time being, although it sounds to me like umr was hesitant to say that in public. Most people on this forum are very happy with our sets though.
post #908 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

The black level has been the only issue I have ever had with my set. Colors and overall image quality look 'great to me' in Movie Mode. I believe I mentioned incorrectly about the iris not being adjustable earlier in this thread. I adjusted the controls in the Service Menu but never observed a reduction in overall light output, especially anything to improve the black level.

You did not do it correctly, because the iris can be used to reduce the black level that is how you can easily tell it is working.
post #909 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by da Choge View Post

First post on this thread. Ya, know . . . I'm prolly gonna be burned at the stake for giving it up to the "wobulation" thing, but I say why stop now? If they can get a "virtual" 1920X1080p from a wobulated 960X1080p chip, what could a wobulated DarkChip 3 promise? (I know that's not a new question, but I think it's a good question). I hope they keep it up! I think it's brilliant that HP came up with this technology (is anybody familiar with the story of how they got there? -- I don't know -- but my best guess is that they may have arrived there by accident; I believe that some of the best developments have been arrived at purely fortuitously; it took a person of vision to see the practical applications) . . . Anywho's . . . I think it's great that this technology is able to enhance our viewing experience at a significantly lower cost.

Back on topic; I'm not yet an owner of the HL-S5679, but I'm very interested. It's either going to be this or one of Sammy's HL-S5687w/88w series. I was very interested in UMR's first 5679 calibration report. I don't know if I can see RBEs, but I have attempted numerous violent epileptic-like head-shaking episodes at the local showroom floors and haven't come up with anything productive (surprised there hasn't been a 911 call yet). However, I fear, getting a color wheel RPTV back at home, given time, I'd be finding all new kinds of pain. To my mind the only reasons, at this point, that a 5679 purchase might be justified are 1) RBE heebie-jeebies, 2) greatly reduced background noise!!!, & 3) faster boot-up and way-longer lamp-life features (however these are three significant factors). The RBE thing, which I personally don't even know about as of yet, is my biggest concern.

I'm really thinking that a much cheaper 5687w with an ISF calibration (by UMR) may be the best way to go. I'd like to hear his (UMR's) personal opinion, but am hesitant to solicit such due my recent experience in reviewing a Sony LCOS thread . . . I was thinking that I dismissed the whole LCOS thing too prematurely and went back to review a Sony A2000 LCOS thread. I found that UMR had taken a very unjustifiable beating on that thread for only reporting his honest and experience-based views of the product. It only goes to show you how a few non-productive buttheads can spoil things for the rest of us !!!

Anywho's . . . I'd be very interested in positive reviews and encouragements from current 5679 owners. And I wouldn't dismiss reviews from 56/XX87w/88w owners (and would especially solicit comments from UMR 'bout the pros/cons of Samsung's RP lamp DMD units vs. their new LED DLP unit -- UMR, I'm sure I'll PM you in the near future, and, as I live in the DFW area, hopefully, we'll meet at some point.

I'm a noobie poster (obviously) so forgive the off-topic strays, but I've been a lurker on this forum for some time and have been into the audio half (at least) of this AV thing since the early 70's (this next one will actually be my 4th HDTV purchase). Now . . . if anyone wants to act as my sales rep for the last 10 to 25 years of warehoused AV equipment I've got stored over at my "estranged" wife's home (she threatens to give away all those purrty MacIntoshes to Salvation Army on a daily basis) let it be known ;-) !!!

-da Choge (john)


Please correct me if I am wrong, but the LED set will not show RBE because it has no colorwheel at all.
post #910 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey_Gee View Post

Please correct me if I am wrong, but the LED set will not show RBE because it has no colorwheel at all.

As I understand it, LED RPTVs reduce rather than eliminate RBE. This is not caused by colour wheels in themselves, but by the sequential illumination of each colour onto the DMD. LEDs can simply switch colours six times faster (I think) than a colour wheel, so although rainbows are probably still there, I guess they are generally no longer noticed.

Of course, the great missed trick with LEDs is that if they can switch on and off so fast, then they can switch off - period! If some of those illumination cycles within each frame were dark , then the full-off black level could be much lower. Now that would sell them to me!

Nick
post #911 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by da Choge View Post

Back on topic; I'm not yet an owner of the HL-S5679, but I'm very interested. It's either going to be this or one of Sammy's HL-S5687w/88w series. I was very interested in UMR's first 5679 calibration report. ...

Quote:


However, I fear, getting a color wheel RPTV back at home, given time, I'd be finding all new kinds of pain.

If you buy from a local dealer who offers a "no cost to you" thirty day return period then the difference between your home conditions and the showroom conditions should not be a problem. The point of the RBE problem should be to find out if they bother you when you are behaving normally.

There are several movies that have the potential to bring out RBE experiences. "Sin City" and "The Man Who Wasn't There" are two good examples.

Quote:


I'm really thinking that a much cheaper 5687w with an ISF calibration (by UMR) may be the best way to go. I'd like to hear his (UMR's) personal opinion,

If you expect to have UMR calibrate your new TV then why not contact him directly to see if he has any thoughts about your choices. I wouldn't expect him to make a choice for you though.
post #912 of 2915
Anybody try out the 360 with this set now that the 1080p update is out ??

Would love to get some feedback and maybe some pics.
post #913 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Buy what ever looks best to you, but there isn't any "faking" going on.

A CRT TV aims it's electron gun at the phosphor in the top left corner of the inner surface of it's CRT tube. That activates one pixel. Then the "gun" moves left to right activating one pixel at a time until it reaches the right side of the tube. At that point one line has been painted on the tubes surface.

Next the "gun" skips a line and paints another line one pixel at a time. The "gun" repeats that process until it reaches the bottom of the screen. Half the interleaved picture is painted so the gun has to go back up to the top of the tube's screen and paint the other have of the image's lines...

This is why I call "wobulation" mechanical interlacing. Not saying that it is good or bad- just mechanical.
post #914 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by fiyin View Post

Magnolia finally delivered my TV last Friday, and I'm mostly happy with it so far.


I'm seeing color banding and I'm not sure whether the problem is with the source material [it's very noticeable on non-HD digital cable (coax-in) and DVD player (component), and it's slightly noticeable on certain Xbox 360 games (component) and HDTV (coax+CableCARD)] or the TV. The general consensus seems to be that turning on movie mode will greatly reduce this effect.

I end up with an unexpected result whenever I turn on movie mode no matter what I'm watching or what input I select. Here's an example with TV

Dynamic Mode
Movies Mode ~1 minute later

I assume this isn't supposed to happen, but I wanted to verify that this a problem with the TV and not a calibration issue.

Also, I'm curious if any owners have noticed color inaccuracy out of the box. The aqua(?) colored elements (map, health, bullets, etc) in Ghost Recon are a very solid blue on my TV. I figured calibration would be necessary to get the best picture, but this seems pretty far off from the start.

The replacement TV arrived this past Saturday, and I'm much happier with it. The colors are noticeably more accurate out of the box, and switching to movie mode no longer turns my screen yellow! I haven't watched much broadcast HD content with the replacement, but I have noticed some color banding when watching 720p HD trailers from the Xbox Live Marketplace. Now that I have a usable movie mode, I can completely eliminate that.

I snagged the Xbox 360 dashboard update before I left for work. One thing I noticed is a black border when using VGA cable. Selecting 1080p with the included component cable fills the screen. Selecting 1920x1080 with the VGA cable attached results in a black border ~.75" thick around the image. Is there a way to force the picture to fill the screen? Not a big deal, but I could free up a component input if VGA works well.

For the person who asked, I'll try to post a comment about how enabling 1080p affects games a little later. No promises though, since there's plenty of good HDTV on tonight.
post #915 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey_Gee View Post

Please correct me if I am wrong, but the LED set will not show RBE because it has no colorwheel at all.

It is still cycling through the 3 primary colors like a color-wheel, only MUCH faster.

In theory, RBE may still be possible ... though I would think few would be able to notice it.
post #916 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raistlin_HT View Post

It is still cycling through the 3 primary colors like a color-wheel, only MUCH faster.

In theory, RBE may still be possible ... though I would think few would be able to notice it.


Got ya !! I don't see RBE anyway ... so I am good. (did the whole head shake test)


But physically no color wheel is in there correct ??? Only worry with this set is color banding I have heard about.

As for the 360, glad to hear the Component is full screen. Any idea if it has overscan (Try GRAW if you have it) ?? And it is funny the VGA is not filling the screen .... kind of weird really !! Should be a 1920x1080 source to a 1920x1080 screen. Not sure if you have it, but the new Splinter Cell is suppose to be a 1080p game.

BTW, Thanks for the replies.

Look forward to more info with the new 360 update. Just makes me want my new set that much sooner. (no matter if it is this one or the 52" LCD flat panel Sammy) My little 19" HDTV is to much of a tease, but makes it so much harder to go back to a CRT 32" set.
post #917 of 2915
I do occasionally see RBE on standard DLP's ... so this set interests me.


However, I'm concerned about the black-level versus the HL-S87/88 series ... as well as the Sony A2000 series.


From the sounds of it, this TV doesn't really stack up.
post #918 of 2915
Black levels are overrated, IMO...tho I know that's heresy around here.

But if the set looks good to someone, they shouldn't worry about specs.
post #919 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey_Gee View Post

Please correct me if I am wrong, but the LED set will not show RBE because it has no colorwheel at all.

Sorry, Mikey, I can see my post was a bit unclear. The absence of a color wheel and the almost certain end of a perceptible RBE would be the main reason I would want the LED 5679. However, with my top alternate choice being the color wheel Samsung 5687/88 DLPs, the potential for RBEs would be a concern.

-john
post #920 of 2915
^ ^

Ahh, Got ya ...

I still can't believe no 360 1080p updated users with comments yet. I know the Sony folks are a bit miffed. Oh well, I guess a set with no 1920x1080 over VGA or 1080p component in is having a hard time taking advantage.

I will stay on the Sammy side of the fence.
post #921 of 2915
I am strongly considering buying this TV.... tomorrow :-)

I have a few questions though
I have a xbox360 and i would like 100% confirmation that this TV can definately take 1080p input via VGA and HDMI because I want a home theater PC too.

Also, I realize this one may be impossible to answer but how future proof is this TV. I am currently replacing my 42" mitsubishi TV i have only had for 4 years :-( and im not happy about it... but it only takes 1080i and 480p and well no VGA makes HTPC look aweful, and i want 1080p for xbox. Will this TV last longer or is it same boat again.... 4 years or so?

and lastly i have been reading through the forums and am very confused is this chip using wobulation or not???
post #922 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by thors1982 View Post

I am strongly considering buying this TV.... tomorrow :-)

I have a few questions though
I have a xbox360 and i would like 100% confirmation that this TV can definately take 1080p input via VGA and HDMI because I want a home theater PC too.

and lastly i have been reading through the forums and am very confused is this chip using wobulation or not???

I have connected my laptop to this TV through VGA and I can confirm that it does well with VGA inputs. I set my res to 1920x1080 and it looked great. It does however leave a little black border around the edge. I'm guessing it was done to eliminate overscan problems. It's not too big so it wasn't a problem for me.

I read the TI specs and all Sammy DLPs use wobulation. IMO wobulation gets a bad rap. The mirrors move so fast that I don't think most people are able to perceive the difference unless you are less than a foot from the screen. It also helps kill the screen door effect.
post #923 of 2915
Is it possible that Samsung will put out an upgrade for this set to have hdmi 1.3 or is that not possible?
post #924 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by waukee View Post

Is it possible that Samsung will put out an upgrade for this set to have hdmi 1.3 or is that not possible?

Possible, yes, probable, no.
post #925 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by waukee View Post

Is it possible that Samsung will put out an upgrade for this set to have hdmi 1.3 or is that not possible?

Very expensive. Not likely that Samsung will choose to do it. That's the sort of things that are done with "very" expensive equipment, not mass produced items like these TV sets.
post #926 of 2915
I can think of a bunch of benefits of the LED technology:

1. Less power needed - NuVision says that their LED DLPs use 1/3 the power as compared to the color wheel versions.

2. Less heat generated - the LEDs use less power and therefore generate less heat, heat is typically the number one enemy of electronics so this adds to the reliability of the LED sets, also the set needs fewer fans or at least lower speed fans to dissipate the heat.

3. Less noise - Fewer fans or lower speed fans mean less noise. This is probably a factor a few years down the road as grime and dust build of faster on sets with more fans or higher fan speed.

4. More reliable - less moving parts (no color wheel), less likely surges or power outages will affect the LEDs as compared to what they do to bulbs, less heat

5. Reduced or eliminated RBE effect.

6. Wider color gamut

7. Simpler overall design - "All things being equal (ed. picture quality), the simplest solution tends to be the best one." - Sagan (Occam's razor)

8. Longer "bulb/light" life - less times the TV has to be opened up.

These are just my observations and conclusions from reading about DLP TVs. I don't like the color banding so I am still on the hunt for my perfect big screen TV :-)
post #927 of 2915
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fiyin View Post

I snagged the Xbox 360 dashboard update before I left for work. One thing I noticed is a black border when using VGA cable. Selecting 1080p with the included component cable fills the screen. Selecting 1920x1080 with the VGA cable attached results in a black border ~.75" thick around the image. Is there a way to force the picture to fill the screen? Not a big deal, but I could free up a component input if VGA works well.

You can use the P.Size button on the remote to scale and center the picture. This function is also available from the User Menu when the VGA source is selected.
post #928 of 2915
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ikishk View Post

I'll probably buy one of those kill-a-watt thingies tomorrow, ill report on the draw if I do.

Ever get your power meter?
post #929 of 2915
Quote:
Originally Posted by isparhawk View Post

I can think of a bunch of benefits of the LED technology:

1. Less power needed - NuVision says that their LED DLPs use 1/3 the power as compared to the color wheel versions.

2. Less heat generated - the LEDs use less power and therefore generate less heat, heat is typically the number one enemy of electronics so this adds to the reliability of the LED sets, also the set needs fewer fans or at least lower speed fans to dissipate the heat.

3. Less noise - Fewer fans or lower speed fans mean less noise. This is probably a factor a few years down the road as grime and dust build of faster on sets with more fans or higher fan speed.

4. More reliable - less moving parts (no color wheel), less likely surges or power outages will affect the LEDs as compared to what they do to bulbs, less heat

5. Reduced or eliminated RBE effect.

6. Wider color gamut

7. Simpler overall design - "All things being equal (ed. picture quality), the simplest solution tends to be the best one." - Sagan (Occam's razor)

8. Longer "bulb/light" life - less times the TV has to be opened up.

These are just my observations and conclusions from reading about DLP TVs. I don't like the color banding so I am still on the hunt for my perfect big screen TV :-)

One more......Instant turn on less than 6 seconds.
post #930 of 2915
I'm curious, has anyone enabled/disabled CCA on these? I browsed through old pics of my SM and discovered that on the main menu I see "CCA(OFF)" grayed out. I'm wondering if this means that these sets don't have CCA. This was present in HDMI, as well as Component so I'm guessing it's not something I can even enable.
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