or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK) - Page 32

post #931 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by ><</strong> View Post

I have connected my laptop to this TV through VGA and I can confirm that it does well with VGA inputs. I set my res to 1920x1080 and it looked great. It does however leave a little black border around the edge. I'm guessing it was done to eliminate overscan problems. It's not too big so it wasn't a problem for me.

While other Samsung's have worked with VGA using the 360's updated dashboard, be forewarned that MS is currently having compatibility issues with a lot of TV's.

A number of models that work fine with a PC at 1080p, are not working with the 360.


Hopefully there will be a fix, but who knows if and when it will come.
post #932 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by tg2k View Post

I'm curious, has anyone enabled/disabled CCA on these? I browsed through old pics of my SM and discovered that on the main menu I see "CCA(OFF)" grayed out. I'm wondering if this means that these sets don't have CCA. This was present in HDMI, as well as Component so I'm guessing it's not something I can even enable.

Try HDMI with a live 1080i signal and see what you get.
post #933 of 2935
Nuvision says <4 seconds even

I should be able to time one though in a week or so
post #934 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Try HDMI with a live 1080i signal and see what you get.

My picture clearly reads "MODE : HDMI1, RES : 1080I"
post #935 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

You did not do it correctly, because the iris can be used to reduce the black level that is how you can easily tell it is working.

Thank you, good to know.

I will try it again to get even a slight reduction in black level (when the full screen image is black).
post #936 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey_Gee View Post

Anybody try out the 360 with this set now that the 1080p update is out ??

Would love to get some feedback and maybe some pics.


I post this and voted on a thread within the Home Theater Gaming: Xbox Area thread:

Samsung HL-S5679W 56" LED DLP HDTV and Xbox 360:

1080p over Component looks and works great; 1080i wasn't bad either
1080p over VGA (just got a cable yesterday) looks and works great too; DVDs look great

VGA colors look as good as component which were great to begin with. To me, VGA may look every so slightly better than Component but not by much. Those with larger screens, especially front projectors should chime in here.

1080p over Component, VGA and HDMI working well on the HL-S5679W. I believe FireWire could do it too but only have 1080i source for it (of course everything is displayed at 1080p anyway).
post #937 of 2935
Looking for some straight skinny on color banding questions:

1. For those of you who have complained to Samsung, have they said they have acknowledged this as an issue and are actively working to correct it?

2. This I guess is most directed to UMR - with the proper calibration, can the bands be eliminated or just significantly reduced? Based on UMR's comments it looks like the bands were not completely eliminated or did I miss read?

Thanks.
post #938 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtunney View Post

...2. This I guess is most directed to UMR - with the proper calibration, can the bands be eliminated or just significantly reduced? Based on UMR's comments it looks like the bands were not completely eliminated or did I miss read?

Thanks.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8722826

Fixed means eliminated to me.
post #939 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by tg2k View Post

My picture clearly reads "MODE : HDMI1, RES : 1080I"

Were you playing a 1080i signal through your HDMI port when you went into the SM? That's what I meant by "live signal".

Owners of "88" sets have reported that is necessary to do that in order to turn "overscan" OFF. It might work in this case too.

Any HDTV signal other than ABC, Fox, or ESPN will be 1080i. You can double check with your "info" key on the remote.
post #940 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

I post this and voted on a thread within the Home Theater Gaming: Xbox Area thread:

Samsung HL-S5679W 56" LED DLP HDTV and Xbox 360:

1080p over Component looks and works great; 1080i wasn't bad either
1080p over VGA (just got a cable yesterday) looks and works great too; DVDs look great

VGA colors look as good as component which were great to begin with. To me, VGA may look every so slightly better than Component but not by much. Those with larger screens, especially front projectors should chime in here.

1080p over Component, VGA and HDMI working well on the HL-S5679W. I believe FireWire could do it too but only have 1080i source for it (of course everything is displayed at 1080p anyway).

Wesley..

Thanks Soooo much for the reply. I know the XBR owners are FREAKING OUT right now and I specifically want a Sammy for it's 1080p support over ALL connections. Your post just made me VERY VERY HAPPY !!!

Thanks again and if you want .... I'd love to see some pics.

Cheers
post #941 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

You did not do it correctly, because the iris can be used to reduce the black level that is how you can easily tell it is working.

The Samsung's HL-S5679W's Iris isn't listed as dynamic. Does this mean that it is either fully ON/Open or OFF/Closed More and nothing in between. Also, how is Dynamic Black on the HL-S5679W achieved without a dynamic iris? By the LEDs?

Thank you for any information as always.
post #942 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey_Gee View Post

Wesley..

Thanks Soooo much for the reply. I know the XBR owners are FREAKING OUT right now and I specifically want a Sammy for it's 1080p support over ALL connections. Your post just made me VERY VERY HAPPY !!!

Thanks again and if you want .... I'd love to see some pics.

Cheers

YMMV!

As I have stated before in this thread, I'm happy with my set's colors. Also, I've seen a thread with pictures that show component versus VGA from the 360 (on a Samsung DLP not the HL-S5679W) and they showed more staturation in the VGA than the component which can't be adjusted for easily.

For me, the colors look identicial and the VGA didn't appear more saturated in any way. The slight improvement of VGA over component for me personally was 'apparent' resolution/image quality/'fullness' and not color.

P.S. Love being able to adjust the image up/down/left/right and size of the VGA image easily with the HL-S5679W. Will have to try turning my 4:3 PC at 1280x720 back on and see if it looks the same after adjusting for the Xbox 360 (have 4-port VGA switch attached to the TV).
post #943 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by klac View Post

Ever get your power meter?

Damnit, I knew I forgot something at harbor freight. I'll try and make it down tomorrow
post #944 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by gtunney View Post

1. For those of you who have complained to Samsung, have they said they have acknowledged this as an issue and are actively working to correct it?

They will send a tech out, who will try and put his grimey hands all over your set to get the serial number you already have on a postit note. then when you show him banding, he'll say "all HD sets have that" They you try and take a logical note "why does it go away in movie mode, can you replicate that to other modes?" and you'll get "I'll call my guys in jersey and I'll get back to you"

I think that was 6 weeks ago now. bottom line is, movie mode 85/45/10/45/50(ish) /warm2/dnie-off/dnr-off/film-off, and if you need more, get a calibrator.
post #945 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by htwaits View Post

Were you playing a 1080i signal through your HDMI port when you went into the SM? That's what I meant by "live signal".

Owners of "88" sets have reported that is necessary to do that in order to turn "overscan" OFF. It might work in this case too.

Any HDTV signal other than ABC, Fox, or ESPN will be 1080i. You can double check with your "info" key on the remote.

At the time I entered the SM, the 1080i signal was on. It was paused on my DVR but I can't imagine that causing a difference because it's still a live signal.

I'm wondering if the CCA is related to the fact that the 87s and 88s have a 5-segment color wheel but the 79s just have the three colored LEDs, and therefore maybe CCA just doesn't apply for the 5679?
post #946 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by tg2k View Post

I'm wondering if the CCA is related to the fact that the 87s and 88s have a 5-segment color wheel but the 79s just have the three colored LEDs, and therefore maybe CCA just doesn't apply for the 5679?

Beats me, but that would be a great question for UMR, Eliab or David Abrams.
post #947 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by umr View Post

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8722826

Fixed means eliminated to me.


Thank you!
post #948 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

The Samsung's HL-S5679W's Iris isn't listed as dynamic. Does this mean that it is either fully ON/Open or OFF/Closed More and nothing in between. Also, how is Dynamic Black on the HL-S5679W achieved without a dynamic iris? By the LEDs?

Thank you for any information as always.

I entered the Service Menu and got to the SP Actuator

Turned DV Aperture OFF. The 'signal' and not the set's brightness dropped dramatically.

I powered off the set and let it shut down. The apecture is now closed.

Still don't see a difference in full screen black scenes or low light scenes with dark overall light output.

If there was any change, it was very slight indeed.
post #949 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wesley Hester View Post

I entered the Service Menu and got to the SP Actuator

Turned DV Aperture OFF. The 'signal' and not the set's brightness dropped dramatically.

I powered off the set and let it shut down. The apecture is now closed.

Still don't see a difference in full screen black scenes or low light scenes with dark overall light output.

If there was any change, it was very slight indeed.

From looking here I have to wonder if you need to do more than that to set the iris to be closed.

I also looked at my pictures of that menu and the DB Aperture option was disabled. Maybe I really didn't go into the menu with 1080I on...I'm going to have to double-check this.
post #950 of 2935
Just had my television calibrated by Steve Martin (aka cheezmo) of Smart Calibration here in the Dallas area. Steve was right on time and a real professional. Steve elected to use Dynamic mode for calibration. First things first, Steve was able to eliminate the color banding in Dynamic mode by entering the service menu and making adjustments to DNIe. He also made adjustments for blacks, contrast, overscan, aperture, and of course color. The colors in Dynamic mode no longer display florescent green grass when watching a football game or the brown grass when watching in Movie mode. Adjustment were made on both HDMI inputs and for the off air antenna. Steve also went into the settings on my DVD player and made some adjustments there. Steve thought the television looked very nice post calibration. Steve was not much impressed by the reflective glare from the screen. The glare may be more noticeable in my home mainly because of the 10 windows I have in my living room. The calibration was well worth the money spent. I am now completely satisfied with the purchase of the HLS5679W.
post #951 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMCL View Post

Just had my television calibrated by Steve Martin of Smart Calibration here in the Dallas area. Steve was right on time and a real professional.

Thanks for posting your report. I've included it in the list that is linked at the bottom of my post.

Enjoy.
post #952 of 2935
How many folks use a Power Conditioner with their set ??

If Yes or No , please give reasons why you do or do not.

Thanks
post #953 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey_Gee View Post

How many folks use a Power Conditioner with their set ??

I have all my equipment behind an APC SmartUPS 1400. It provides some line conditioning for those surges and power loses common to central tx. Not to mention lightning protection.

On a side note, I got that kill-a-watt thingy and will be putting it on the set tonight.
post #954 of 2935
What about this:

Wall outlet --> to APC power backup/surge protector ---> To Power / Audio Conditioner ----> To HDTV


TO MUCH ???
post #955 of 2935
The APC alone for me has been enough, but if ya have a stand alone conditioner, why not i guess
post #956 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikey_Gee View Post

What about this:

Wall outlet --> to APC power backup/surge protector ---> To Power / Audio Conditioner ----> To HDTV


TO MUCH ???

I don't know whether a power conditioner is similar to a surge protector, but I think I've read that surge protectors are not supposed to be chained together...or maybe it's that it's not good to put a surge protector after a UPS. Not sure...
post #957 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by tg2k View Post

I don't know whether a power conditioner is similar to a surge protector, but I think I've read that surge protectors are not supposed to be chained together...or maybe it's that it's not good to put a surge protector after a UPS. Not sure...

"APC power backup/surge protector" in this instance is one unit.
post #958 of 2935
I live in Canada and my power goes down slim and none (MAYBE once every 3 years). I also experience very little if EVER an instance where my lights dim.

In 8 years in my house have NEVER lost and gear due to power fluxuation.

I just don't want the APC fighting the Power conditioner. Just if my power EVER does go down my set will give me time to turn it off. Or am I better off with just the Power Conditioner ??

When I say APC I mean something like this

http://images.amazon.com/images/P/B...SCLZZZZZZZ_.jpg

The BACK-UPS ES 500 Battery Backup and surge protection Unit is the EXACT one I have.


So wall --to--> to UPS 500 --to--> Monster power/audio conditioner --to--> HD Set and gear
post #959 of 2935
Using a P3 Kill-a-watt P4400, here are my rough results. Each "test" was about 10 secs of me glancing at the readout to get the range.

Powered off/Standby
  • 20 watts

OTA
  • 175-183 watts - pbs/720p, ABC/1080i

AV1 (from Hughes HDVR2)
  • 173-176 watts - no signal
  • 176-180 watts - FNC, HBO, DSC

Component1 (from denon avr-3806)
  • 172-175 watts - no signal
  • 175-179 watts - Amp on, dvd sending blank (black) screen (samsung dvd-r145)
  • 176-181 watts - Dexter DivX on DVD via Amp

PC (ATI Rage Mobility-M1 on a crappy old laptop)
  • 086-087 watts - No signal
  • 142-150 watts - windows XP startup animation
  • 150-154 watts - 1600x1200
  • 148-152 watts - 1280x1024
  • 146-152 watts - 1024x768
  • 147-149 watts - 800x600

HDMI1 (from denon avr-3806)
  • 172-175 watts - no signal
  • 175-178 watts - Amp on, dvd sending blank (black) screen
  • 180-183 watts - Dexter DivX on DVD via Amp

HDMI2 (from Hughes HR20)
  • 177-181 watts - Grey standby screen
  • 181-186 watts - FNC, HBO, DSC, HBOH

Total test time took about 30 mins.
0.08 KWH
178-180 w
59.9-60.0 Hz
2.22-2.23 Amp
121.1-121.2 Volt

My TV settings:
movie mode
DNR: off
DNIe: off
contrast: 85
brightness: 45
sharpness: 10
tint: 50/50
tone: warm2
overscan: off
speakers: 15w

When I watch a movie tomorrow, I'll get a more accurate KWH and update this post. If anyone wants me to try some other things, speak up
post #960 of 2935
Quote:
Originally Posted by JMCL View Post

Just had my television calibrated by Steve Martin (aka cheezmo) of Smart Calibration here in the Dallas area. Steve was right on time and a real professional. Steve elected to use Dynamic mode for calibration. First things first, Steve was able to eliminate the color banding in Dynamic mode by entering the service menu and making adjustments to DNIe. He also made adjustments for blacks, contrast, overscan, aperture, and of course color. The colors in Dynamic mode no longer display florescent green grass when watching a football game or the brown grass when watching in Movie mode. Adjustment were made on both HDMI inputs and for the off air antenna. Steve also went into the settings on my DVD player and made some adjustments there. Steve thought the television looked very nice post calibration. Steve was not much impressed by the reflective glare from the screen. The glare may be more noticeable in my home mainly because of the 10 windows I have in my living room. The calibration was well worth the money spent. I am now completely satisfied with the purchase of the HLS5679W.


Any chance you could take a snapshot of the DNIe settings on the service menu?
I'd like to know what settings affected the banding. There's so many settings in there that it's about impossible to know what to work with.
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Samsung HLS-5679W LED DLP Owners Thread (*NO PRICE TALK)