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Revel Owners Thread - Page 198

post #5911 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milt99 View Post

I've had an epiphany tonight boys and I think all of you should seriously consider it.
I'm donating all of my A\V gear to the Muslim Brotherhood and using the tax write-off to purchase a Bose Lifestyle® 535 Series II home entertainment system.
Who's with me!?!

Ok, wait. This sounds like one of those bait posts just so you can hear me say once again that I agree.

But now I draw the line.

Absolutely not. mad.gif I do not agree. There's no way can I ever condone you... buying a Bose.

I know that with any such donations you'll just put an NSA chip into the AV gear when you go undercover. biggrin.gif
post #5912 of 6910
Had some time today to listen to the studio 2 with emotiva xpa-2

I have found myself listening to more music than i initially had anticipated. I prefer to run them full range for music and am still contemplating on either keeping the xpa-2, bi amping with an additional xpa-2, or exchanging for an xpr-2

Most my listening is in the -10 range but i have had it to 0 for a few minutes to see if the xpa-2 can handle it. On the amplifier around 6 or 7 of the blue dots were lit solid but it never made it to within 2 or 3 of the end. I know that meter is not accurate but if i am correct it should turn red or flash red if you are nearing a clipped signal. I dont plan on doing much listening at reference but it may happen occasionally.

Also i have an xpa-1l for the center channel that i use during movies.

What should i do with the xpa-2? my only concern is if played at reference full range that there is enough power. if the consensus is there is still headroom left at reference with the xpa-2 then i keep it and be happy. if there is a chance of it being over driven then i need to swap it out for a more powerful amp.

any reason to switch the xpa-1l if i decide to exchange the xpa-2? i dont see any reason since its only used for movies and tv.
post #5913 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn784 View Post

Had some time today to listen to the studio 2 with emotiva xpa-2

I have found myself listening to more music than i initially had anticipated. I prefer to run them full range for music and am still contemplating on either keeping the xpa-2, bi amping with an additional xpa-2, or exchanging for an xpr-2

Most my listening is in the -10 range but i have had it to 0 for a few minutes to see if the xpa-2 can handle it. On the amplifier around 6 or 7 of the blue dots were lit solid but it never made it to within 2 or 3 of the end. I know that meter is not accurate but if i am correct it should turn red or flash red if you are nearing a clipped signal. I dont plan on doing much listening at reference but it may happen occasionally.

Also i have an xpa-1l for the center channel that i use during movies.

What should i do with the xpa-2? my only concern is if played at reference full range that there is enough power. if the consensus is there is still headroom left at reference with the xpa-2 then i keep it and be happy. if there is a chance of it being over driven then i need to swap it out for a more powerful amp.

any reason to switch the xpa-1l if i decide to exchange the xpa-2? i dont see any reason since its only used for movies and tv.



All I can say is when I do change my amp and go with either mono's or a 3 channel amp for my front three is that I want enough headroom so I do not over drive the amp(s) and clipping never enters the equation. I also listen to music on some occasions at or even a little above reference for maybe a song or two with the right recording. You have a great speaker and if you like it loud sometimes be sure to give them lots of good clean power. Just my opinion.
post #5914 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn784 View Post

Had some time today to listen to the studio 2 with emotiva xpa-2

I have found myself listening to more music than i initially had anticipated. I prefer to run them full range for music and am still contemplating on either keeping the xpa-2, bi amping with an additional xpa-2, or exchanging for an xpr-2

Most my listening is in the -10 range but i have had it to 0 for a few minutes to see if the xpa-2 can handle it. On the amplifier around 6 or 7 of the blue dots were lit solid but it never made it to within 2 or 3 of the end. I know that meter is not accurate but if i am correct it should turn red or flash red if you are nearing a clipped signal. I dont plan on doing much listening at reference but it may happen occasionally.

Also i have an xpa-1l for the center channel that i use during movies.

What should i do with the xpa-2? my only concern is if played at reference full range that there is enough power. if the consensus is there is still headroom left at reference with the xpa-2 then i keep it and be happy. if there is a chance of it being over driven then i need to swap it out for a more powerful amp.

any reason to switch the xpa-1l if i decide to exchange the xpa-2? i dont see any reason since its only used for movies and tv.

Play it to your reference level for an hour. If it shuts down or sounds harsh then you have your answer. You should have plenty of power there with either amp.
post #5915 of 6910
Soo... my dealer (Toronto) just told me the Revel F12's are discontinued... Is this true? They are hard enough to find here in the Great White North frown.gif

On a side note, is there such a thing as external Audyssey (or similar EQ) for idiots like me? I have a Sherbourn PT-7020, and it's EmoEQ is garbage IMO. Love the Preamp, love the PA 7-150 amp attached to it, but hate the Room EQ. I do have an SPL meter, but I don't have a clue what to use it with for EQ settings.
post #5916 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnydoggy View Post

Soo... my dealer (Toronto) just told me the Revel F12's are discontinued... Is this true? They are hard enough to find here in the Great White North frown.gif

On a side note, is there such a thing as external Audyssey (or similar EQ) for idiots like me? I have a Sherbourn PT-7020, and it's EmoEQ is garbage IMO. Love the Preamp, love the PA 7-150 amp attached to it, but hate the Room EQ. I do have an SPL meter, but I don't have a clue what to use it with for EQ settings.



They are still listed on Revel's site, but so were my F-52's earlier this year but they were clearing them out for the Performa3's.
post #5917 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn784 View Post

Had some time today to listen to the studio 2 with emotiva xpa-2

I have found myself listening to more music than i initially had anticipated. I prefer to run them full range for music and am still contemplating on either keeping the xpa-2, bi amping with an additional xpa-2, or exchanging for an xpr-2

Most my listening is in the -10 range but i have had it to 0 for a few minutes to see if the xpa-2 can handle it. On the amplifier around 6 or 7 of the blue dots were lit solid but it never made it to within 2 or 3 of the end. I know that meter is not accurate but if i am correct it should turn red or flash red if you are nearing a clipped signal. I dont plan on doing much listening at reference but it may happen occasionally.

Also i have an xpa-1l for the center channel that i use during movies.

What should i do with the xpa-2? my only concern is if played at reference full range that there is enough power. if the consensus is there is still headroom left at reference with the xpa-2 then i keep it and be happy. if there is a chance of it being over driven then i need to swap it out for a more powerful amp.

any reason to switch the xpa-1l if i decide to exchange the xpa-2? i dont see any reason since its only used for movies and tv.
Shawn, DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON BI-AMPING.
IF you have concerns over the XPA-2 and can afford it just get the XPR-2 and be done with it.
Or look at the Emo monoblocks.
You know they require a dedicated 20 amp circuit each to perform at their rating specs, right?
I don't understand your concern over "reference" level and the blue dots.
Reference is just that, a given db level that you calibrate to 0db in your system.
Some set it at 85 or 75. I set mine to 75. Given the dynamics in soundtracks especially that can be really f'ing loud.
I don't think I've ever watched a film at 0db on my pre-pro.
Did you like how the music sounded? What kind of music do you listen to?
Not that my choice should in any way influence yours but I run Studio2s with XPA-1Ls. Sounds great to me.
Personally I let how the system sounds dictate my choices.
Good luck!
post #5918 of 6910
I hate to keep agreeing here, but I tried biamping my 52's and they just sounded better the "normal" way. Biamping them at least partially contributed to Audyssey and my pre wanting to cross them at 250hz and it really did sound bad. When I reran Audyssey while wiring them the traditional way and with proper placement they came up large and full range, which I promptly changed, but at least I knew I had them setup the right way.
post #5919 of 6910
I wonder if a new concerta series is in the works. It makes sense the old concertas would be up next.

If the performa3 and jbl lsr305/308 are any indication these will be winners.
post #5920 of 6910
Yeah you could be right, they have been around awhile. Maybe a new reference at that price point.
post #5921 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn784 View Post

Had some time today to listen to the studio 2 with emotiva xpa-2

I have found myself listening to more music than i initially had anticipated. I prefer to run them full range for music and am still contemplating on either keeping the xpa-2, bi amping with an additional xpa-2, or exchanging for an xpr-2

Most my listening is in the -10 range but i have had it to 0 for a few minutes to see if the xpa-2 can handle it. On the amplifier around 6 or 7 of the blue dots were lit solid but it never made it to within 2 or 3 of the end. I know that meter is not accurate but if i am correct it should turn red or flash red if you are nearing a clipped signal. I dont plan on doing much listening at reference but it may happen occasionally.

Also i have an xpa-1l for the center channel that i use during movies.

What should i do with the xpa-2? my only concern is if played at reference full range that there is enough power. if the consensus is there is still headroom left at reference with the xpa-2 then i keep it and be happy. if there is a chance of it being over driven then i need to swap it out for a more powerful amp.

any reason to switch the xpa-1l if i decide to exchange the xpa-2? i dont see any reason since its only used for movies and tv.


The fact that you have doubts tell me you should return them and get something else.
post #5922 of 6910
Shawn,
Just checked Emotiva website.
The 2nd gen XPA-1 is now out.
My advice, get 2 of those and don't look back.
post #5923 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milt99 View Post

Shawn,
Just checked Emotiva website.
The 2nd gen XPA-1 is now out.
My advice, get 2 of those and don't look back.

This what i am leaning towards at this point. I am debating on leaving the xpa-1l for the center channel though as its only used for ht and tv. Would you leave it or just get three xpa-1?
post #5924 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by skinnydoggy View Post

Soo... my dealer (Toronto) just told me the Revel F12's are discontinued... Is this true? They are hard enough to find here in the Great White North frown.gif

On a side note, is there such a thing as external Audyssey (or similar EQ) for idiots like me? I have a Sherbourn PT-7020, and it's EmoEQ is garbage IMO. Love the Preamp, love the PA 7-150 amp attached to it, but hate the Room EQ. I do have an SPL meter, but I don't have a clue what to use it with for EQ settings.

There was indeed an external Audyssey box. It was super-expensive and needed to be done by a trained installer. They have since shifted their model to embedding the solution into the receivers and pre-pros. However—and this is an important point—you don't have access to the pro version without a license key from Audyssey that runs you about another $700. The pro version is better than what's embedded and puts it more on par with Anthem's ARC.
post #5925 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milt99 View Post

Shawn, DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON BI-AMPING.
IF you have concerns over the XPA-2 and can afford it just get the XPR-2 and be done with it.
Or look at the Emo monoblocks.
You know they require a dedicated 20 amp circuit each to perform at their rating specs, right?
I don't understand your concern over "reference" level and the blue dots.
Reference is just that, a given db level that you calibrate to 0db in your system.
Some set it at 85 or 75. I set mine to 75. Given the dynamics in soundtracks especially that can be really f'ing loud.
I don't think I've ever watched a film at 0db on my pre-pro.
Did you like how the music sounded? What kind of music do you listen to?
Not that my choice should in any way influence yours but I run Studio2s with XPA-1Ls. Sounds great to me.
Personally I let how the system sounds dictate my choices.
Good luck!

Milt, you need to just stop this, please.

Ok, so as Milt said, I agree that beaming is a waste of your time here. The F52s are amazing speakers—fantastic even. However, trying to get additional performance out of them by biamping is, in my opinion a waste in this scenario. You would be better off from a $$ POV to get two XPR-1s and put them on the F52s without biamping. I'd say that's the way to go or, as Milt said get the XPA-1Ls and go into Class A mode.

Have a merry Christmas everyone.
post #5926 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn784 View Post

Had some time today to listen to the studio 2 with emotiva xpa-2

I have found myself listening to more music than i initially had anticipated. I prefer to run them full range for music and am still contemplating on either keeping the xpa-2, bi amping with an additional xpa-2, or exchanging for an xpr-2

Most my listening is in the -10 range but i have had it to 0 for a few minutes to see if the xpa-2 can handle it. On the amplifier around 6 or 7 of the blue dots were lit solid but it never made it to within 2 or 3 of the end. I know that meter is not accurate but if i am correct it should turn red or flash red if you are nearing a clipped signal. I dont plan on doing much listening at reference but it may happen occasionally.

Also i have an xpa-1l for the center channel that i use during movies.

What should i do with the xpa-2? my only concern is if played at reference full range that there is enough power. if the consensus is there is still headroom left at reference with the xpa-2 then i keep it and be happy. if there is a chance of it being over driven then i need to swap it out for a more powerful amp.

any reason to switch the xpa-1l if i decide to exchange the xpa-2? i dont see any reason since its only used for movies and tv.

This is what I recommend. Remove all external amps and connect your Studio2s directly to your receiver. Listen to you music at the levels you normally would for several hours. If you do not hear clipping and the receiver is not shutting off then return all the amps and use that money elsewhere that makes a difference.

Forget about passive bi-amping. Passive bi-amping makes no difference in ANY speaker with built in crossovers. Bi-amping only works when the speakers' internal crossovers are disconnected from the drivers and placed upstream from the amps. Speaker manufacturers include multiple sets of posts for marketing purposes only.
post #5927 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

The F52s are amazing speakers—fantastic even.

Have a merry Christmas everyone.
I thought he had Studio2s.

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night!!
post #5928 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by duc135 View Post

This is what I recommend. Remove all external amps and connect your Studio2s directly to your receiver. Listen to you music at the levels you normally would for several hours. If you do not hear clipping and the receiver is not shutting off then return all the amps and use that money elsewhere that makes a difference.

Forget about passive bi-amping. Passive bi-amping makes no difference in ANY speaker with built in crossovers. Bi-amping only works when the speakers' internal crossovers are disconnected from the drivers and placed upstream from the amps. Speaker manufacturers include multiple sets of posts for marketing purposes only.

Before you hear clipping the amps may be limiting the peaks because they cannot provide the required power for short term bursts.

- Rich
post #5929 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

***However—and this is an important point—you don't have access to the pro version without a license key from Audyssey that runs you about another $700. The pro version is better than what's embedded and puts it more on par with Anthem's ARC.

IIRC the license to get Audyssey right itself runs $150, but the required "pro calibration kit" is another $550 or something, which comes out to your $700 figure. The "calibration kit" includes the mike and similar stuff.

However, if you know someone with the calibration kit, or a shop will rent it, the kit can be used with any number of licenses. Still, their pricing model really just means that people who actually care about sound and don't want to employ a custom installer just to run an AVR/pre-pro calibration will gravitate towards solutions such as ARC rather than jumping through hoops to get the competent version of Audyssey.
post #5930 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by Milt99 View Post

I thought he had Studio2s.

Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night!!

Yes studio 2 and voice 2 with some builder grade in wall surrounds. I think they are nxg. They are on my list to replace, but I am trying to figure out the amplifier, then acoustic panels first.
post #5931 of 6910
Merry Christmas to all my Revel brothers!
post #5932 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by comfynumb View Post

Merry Christmas to all my Revel brothers!

You too! The PS4 sounds amazing on the Revels smile.gif. Santa came through this year! Yes!
post #5933 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by RichB View Post

Before you hear clipping the amps may be limiting the peaks because they cannot provide the required power for short term bursts.

- Rich

Isn't that what clipping is?
post #5934 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by lsdec View Post

You too! The PS4 sounds amazing on the Revels smile.gif. Santa came through this year! Yes!



Thanks. Cool I'm glad. Santa brought my son a Ps4 and it really is pretty awesome. The GF got me Apple tv and it looks and sounds great, more settings to play with.
post #5935 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by duc135 View Post

Isn't that what clipping is?

Yes, but most people expect to hear objectionable distortion before their amp clips.
Some amps, have soft clipping that will compress the sound.

Here is an interesting article:

http://www.adx.co.nz/techinfo/audio/note128.pdf

- Rich
post #5936 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by lsdec View Post

You too! The PS4 sounds amazing on the Revels smile.gif. Santa came through this year! Yes!

Is ps4 good for a blu ray player? We have one and am wondering how the quality compares.
We have been using an old player and thinking of getting an oppo.
Do you run the ps4 PCM or bitstream?
post #5937 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn784 View Post

Is ps4 good for a blu ray player? We have one and am wondering how the quality compares.
We have been using an old player and thinking of getting an oppo.
Do you run the ps4 PCM or bitstream?

It's actually a great Blu-ray player and fast. So long as you don't need DVD scaling its a great solution. Use HDMI to get the best video of course. Running the PS4 or any Blu-ray in bitstream means your receiver decodes the audio as opposed to PCCM where the player decodes. If you have an HDMI 1.2 or earlier receiver run in LPCM and if it is HDMI 1.3 or later run in bitstream. That's the conventional wisdom.
post #5938 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thxtheater View Post

It's actually a great Blu-ray player and fast. So long as you don't need DVD scaling its a great solution. Use HDMI to get the best video of course. Running the PS4 or any Blu-ray in bitstream means your receiver decodes the audio as opposed to PCCM where the player decodes. If you have an HDMI 1.2 or earlier receiver run in LPCM and if it is HDMI 1.3 or later run in bitstream. That's the conventional wisdom.

Yes much faster than the toshiba we were using. Now to program the harmony remote to work with the ps4 for the family.
post #5939 of 6910
Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn784 View Post

Is ps4 good for a blu ray player? We have one and am wondering how the quality compares.
We have been using an old player and thinking of getting an oppo.
Do you run the ps4 PCM or bitstream?

When the PS3 was new it was one of the fastest players, and you had to drop a lot of cash to get a dedicated player that was near the same speed. This is not true anymore as the $100-200 players (Panasonic anyway) are just as fast as the PS3.

One thing you should be aware of, and this will apply to the PS4 as well, is the power usage of using a PS3/PS4 is rather high. If you live in an area where the electric rate is any concern than you will notice a difference in your bill. For example, when I stopped using my PS3 to watch Netflix / Movies my bill went down by $15 / month. The thing uses like 200-300W even when using a movies / streaming. And you might be doing this for hours on end. The PS4 is not much more efficient. A dedicated player might use 10-20W of power.

Now one thing that is nice is the streaming apps are often very up to date and some of the best designed. The Amazon streaming app on Panasonic players hasn't been updated since 2011 on some models. Where the one on the PS4 is very new and current. For disc play back I don't think you'll be able to tell much difference. I would usually do bitstream and let my receiver do all of the decoding.
post #5940 of 6910
The ps4 is great. And yes the ps3's value was elevated because a regular bluray player was min 300.

The energy use is very little. smile.gif

I also do bitstream of course.
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