The Official Yamaha RX-V1700/RX-V2700 Thread - Page 19

Yeah it must be different because I don't recall a "natural" setting on mine, from what you describe that would be the "Low" setting on the Z9, "flat" and "front" appear identical.

I think the tone control, ie, "bass" has a wider frequency range that it affects probably up to 250hz or more. Turning up just your sub would only affect those frequencies below the x-over.

Yes, Westcoast helped me out on that, so the less aggressive EQ's would be Front and Natural.

Auto EQ's have a though time with subs in general. Go into the menu and check what distance your sub has been set to. You can then go into the manual set-up and put in the correct distance if it's wrong and reset the x-over (I peronally think 120 is too high unless you're running sub-sats) then you can re-run the YPAO skipping the distance and size check and it should retain the manual settings.

Thanks WestCoast, I prolly will.

The network jack is ONLY for using the NET/USB input with Internet radio stations and for playing music files from either your computer or a network music streaming device. The RS232 port is for firmware updates and using the remote manager software for controlling the unit. I've been using the network port on my 2700 trying out the internet radio and it's worked fine but I need to get a "legit" version of windows so I can get a copy of Windows Media Connect to play my mp3 library on it.

This is a bit of a surprise to me. I thought I would be able to control/tweak the 2700 via my wireless laptop. Guess not. Thanks for pointing this out.

yeah, you're correct, "NATURAL" is probably the lower of the 3 settings. Once again the manual states- "average frequency response, with higher frequencies being less emphasized".

"FLAT" averages frequency response of all speakers, "recommended if all speakers are of similiar quality" (ie. I suppose like a brand new complete speaker-set, of same series?).

While "FRONT" adjusts frequency response of each speaker (center, and rears/surrounds) to your front speakers, "recommended if your front speakers are of much higher quality than your other speakers" (you figure, I guess like "mixed" type/age speaker-sets?).

No problem...I've learned alot from everyone else posting here and when I am able to answer someone's question, I feel obliged to.


Have a blast with it otherwise.

sorry, don't mean to confuse you. Once again AUTO SETUP and MANUAL SETUP are two separate functions, that affect most of the same parameters-- especially "SOUND MENU" parameters.

YPAO automatically calibrates, and enables, the Parametric Equalizer (PEQ or "AUTO PEQ") function, as well as several other parameters. While the Graphical Equalizer (or "GEQ") is set, and enabled, during MANUAL SETUP mode only.

So when you go into MANUAL SETUP, after AUTO SETUP has been run, and select "GEQ" at EQUALIZER parameter (under SOUND MENU), the AUTO PEQ settings (from your YPAO session) are disabled or switched off, and the graphical equalizer is now enabled for you to manually adjust.

You can always switch back to your initial YPAO AUTO PEQ settings by going into MANUAL SETUP, navigate back to EQUALIZER menu parameter, and select "AUTO PEQ" (instead of "GEQ").

Or, you can select "EQ OFF" parameter to switch off all EQ function. This is what I'm meaning by going back in manually and "tweaking" as necessary, because there are certain parameters that YPAO chooses that need to be re-set, or re-adjusted- ie. for example speaker size (small or large), etc.,..I think this capability is pretty cool.

I have mostly preferred the graphical equalizer (GEQ) function, I have everything nearly flat, or @ 0db. However, later I plan to experiment more with the RX-V2700's multi-YPAO setting capability, and try switching around between various AUTO PEQ configurations.

WestCoastD,

So, after I run "auto" setup and then all I do is go into "manual" setup and only increase the LFE +3db. The YPAO light goes off. Am I still using the EQ settings that were setup during the "auto" calibration? If so, how can I confirm that?

Thought: Wouldn't increasing the LFE level +3db need to change the EQ settings? As the EQ was setup at the lower level.

Thanks,

Frank

"YPAO" indicator lights up when AUTO SETUP is run, [and], when the speaker settings set in AUTO SETUP are used [without] any modifications.

So if you run AUTO SETUP, and don't change any speaker settings in MANUAL SETUP ("BASIC", "SOUND" menu selections), then the initial settings are enabled by default, and the YPAO light is enabled. When you make an LFE change, the YPAO light goes off, the new LFE setting is enabled (only), however, all other AUTO SETUP settings are still as they were (unless you switch "AUTO PEQ" to "GEQ", or any other parameter setting)

If you want to be sure YPAO EQ settings are enabled, then go into SOUND MENU and select EQUALIZER function. Here you can select either GEQ or AUTO PEQ. AUTO PEQ will enable YPAO EQ settings, get it? GEQ will enable your own custom EQ settings, get it?


Once again, you can play around with changing LFE setting by itself. Or, also, going into MANUAL SETUP, under SOUND MENU, and at EQUALIZER item, select graphical equalizer (GEQ) instead, and "tweak" your own settings for all speakers, including sub-woofer. If you don't like it, then you can switch back to initial YPAO EQ settings, by going back and re-selecting AUTO PEQ. Get it?

Despite the description, I think it's more of an advantgeous setting if you prefer unadultered 2 channel audio with or without the sub regardless of the quality comparison to the rest of the system.
I believe the best process for using the YPAO is to work the placement of the front L/R speakers to achieve the best possible 2ch sound un-EQ'ed with no sub, then engage the sub & x-over and experiment with sub placement for the best possible sound, again without EQ, and then start working the different EQ modes to your tastes.

yeah, good approach.

Actually, I listen, primarily, to music (2-channel audio), thru front L/R channels (Energy RC-30 towers) with no sub, so I have my system set for "PURE" mode always. PURE mode disables all EQ and video circuitry anyway.

I usually watch DVD movies, and cable TV broadcasts, using Pro Logic. This is the only time I engage "EQ" configuration with sub (bass management). It sounds very nice in general.

But I think I will experiment more with "FRONT" EQ auto setup, now that I'm used to the current config, to see the difference in sound characteristics.

I run Paradigm Signature S4's and a pair of infinite baffle subs, and I find that even for two channel music I much prefer the use of the subs. Also I prefered the sound of the DAC's in my Z9 to those in my Pioneer DV-59AVi. So I didn't use the Pure Direct very much. I had a couple of SMS-1's and I used those to EQ the subs and just used the YPAO for level setting and manually EQ'd a couple of bands close to the x-over point.
I am very interested in what the the changes in the YPAO configurability is going to offer me with the 2700. It now goes down to 31hz which is great because I have a big peak at 40hz
It will be even better if I can go in and manually adjust the Auto EQ settings and save them. I know it now has provision for six memories and a two band PEQ for the sub that my previous version didn't have.

Thanks!!

while the S4's are very nice speakers, they play down to like 62Hz. Therefore, I would think, you almost have to augment with a subwoofer, especially for two-channel audio? The Energy RC-30's are nearly full-range (down to 33Hz)- very nice bass response.


yeah, I think the Burr Brown DAC's, in the RX-V2700, are very good as well.
So you played all your source material thru the Yamaha DSP, via-Pioneer Elite disc player? What about SACD's?

The Z9 must drive the S4's very well I imagine?


interesting, these things are very cool!
http://www.prillaman.net/sms1_review.html#background


yeah, one of the things I really appreciate as well.

So are you planning to replace your Z9 with an RX-V2700? I would be most intrigued on what the pre-amp designs are for both models-ie how similiar they are to each other, etc.,...equal parts (DAC's, op-amps, regulators etc...).

I'm looking to run all my components in my main room with a 2700 and output via HDMI to my TV. I'm also looking to power my bedroom with all my main room components...its close to the main room (living room) and my RF remote will control everything. My bedroom does not need 5.1 audio...stereo is fine. But I need access to my video components as well (dig cable box, dvd player). My plan was to run all of these components via HDMI to my TV through the 2700. My question is can I ALSO run the component out from the 2700 to provide video to the bedroom TV? I don't want to do these things concurrently. So I would use the audio from zone 2 and the video from the component out. None of my components will be going into the 2700 in HDMI...just via component. No digital audio either (or I will dual supply my CD changer with digital for main use as well as analog so that it can port to zone 2).

Any issues with this idea? And if you happen to know, any issues with doing it via a the 2600 rather than the 2700?

Thanks!

Yea, there is a post in this thread several days ago about this very issue.
Bottom line....some components will not allow HDMI switching, such as the 2700 does. Firmware change/update is required.

I have the Motorolla DCT-6416 from TWC and it works great!

there are well documented HDMI thru-put issues with the SA8300HD (and other brand) cable boxes.

Check out the "Official Yamaha RX-V1600/RX-V2600", and "HDTV Reception Hardware" threads, there is tons of information about this issue.

However, nowadays, most of the major cable broadcast providers (Time Warner Cable, COX, etc.,...) have begun to implement system changes, or up-grades, to these boxes in the last few months especially. Therefore, if you have a newly issued box the chances are good HDMI is functioning properly.

Otherwise, if possible, I would go, in-person, with your current box in hand, to your local cable company and ask them to swap it for a new one. In most cases they will do it- no problem.

Where are the "professional reviews" for this receiver? I have read this entire thread and find first hand user accounts are more valuable, but I was just wondering why there have not been any reviews done by the "professionals".

I was set on getting the 2600, but due to delays in building my basement HT I have switched to "upgrading" to the 2700, for once I'm happy for the delay.

Regards,

RTROSE

it's still too new yet, but I imagine you will see some articles in the coming months. These latest models (RX-V1700/RX-V2700) have only been released like a month ago or so. The publishing process takes a little while, let alone the technical review itself (just ask Kal Rubinson).

I am totally frustrated trying to get the Network function to work. When I hook up my receiver to my router (D-Link DI-624) I get no connectivity on either end. When I hook up up the receiver to an extra 16-port switch I use for LAN parties and then hook the switch up to the router, I get connectivity and the router sees the receiver, but it will not automatically assign an IP address so my computer doesn't see the receiver as a device.

I am a total computer geek who sets up large networks all the time for gaming parties, but I cannot seem to figure out what I am doing wrong.

What is everyone else using that seems to make this so simple?

Actually Paradigms' published stats on the S4's or any of their speakers is a bit misleading; a lot of companies publish the FR at +/- 3db whereas Paradigm does +/- 2db, at 3db the S4's have low FR to 36hz and actually go much lower than that but not within their tolerance.

The i-Link connection between the Z9 and 59 allowed for the original SACD DSD to be decoded by the Z9 and the result was excellent. I'm going to loose that ability with the 2700. And although the 59 does pass audio via HDMI it will not send DSD. I'm not overly concerned because I think SACD is pretty much done, and while I preferred the DACs of the Z9 the 59 is no slouch.

I used my Z9 only to power my surrounds and use ICEpower 1000ASP based monoblocks for my front three and subs. (500w/ch @ 8ohms - 1000w/ch @ 4ohms)
I have sold my Z9 and am now using the 2700 as of yesterday. Haven't done anything with it except hook it up.

I think I'll be sacrificing some sound quality to get features that I need for my HT.
The 2700 is going to be a bit of a stopgap unit until the HDMI thing sorts itself out. I am most likely going to go to an Anthem once they have their room correction and HDMI 1.3 implemented.

Have you turned on DHPC in the setup menu? If not it will not work

these ICEpower amps are very, very, interesting. I guess you use separate power-supply's for these?


to be honest, I think the RX-V2700 is very close in sound quality to the Z9, in terms of pre-amp configuration-- it uses Burr Brown DAC's, Op-amps, etc.,...I think you'll be happy. Moreover, the combination of the RX-V2700 (pre-amp) with ICEpower amps, plus the RX-V2700's DSP quality, and video-processing (up-scaling/de-interlacing) should provide a very nice system.

I set-up the Rx-V2700 a few weeks ago. Overall I like it, though I actually miss some of the sound fields on my older HTR-5590. Here is my question for the forum members: I have a sub-optimal room and I am trying to figure the best way to use my speakers. The TV is on one end with a row of windows on one wall and an opening to another room on the other (it's actually an L-shaped room). I am trying to determine whether I should add back surround or presence speakers. The presence would need to be on the same plane as the fronts, as they will be on the same wall.

Anyone have an opinion on this?

Thanks in advance.

David

I do run the ICEpower amps on a separate circuit, if that's what you're refering to. Otherwise each module has its' own SMPS....

All in all it is close but not quite there yet - the 2700 seems to be lacking in "air" or "openess" that I got in spades with the Z9. Hopefully with more tweaking I can find that again, if not, I can live with this until Anthem builds the pre-pro I want.

A couple weeks ago I read that if I set up the 2700 for 'bi-amping' result in doubling the power. The manual states that every channel is driven at a nominal 140wRMS. I understand that I am not driving any one cone in the speaker with more than one amp, but it just seems to me that if I bi-amp, and I am running 2x140w to each speaker box, I am producing more music power than 1x140w to each speaker box. I have read that unless you separate the high and low frequencies prior to amplification, that bi-amping is worthless. What is the benefit of sending copious amounts of sub-80Hz amplified material to the high-pass section of the speaker's crossover, right?

If nobody can offer a true benefit to the bi-amp option, should I just tell the 2700 that I'm bi-amping, and then wire the second set of terminals to another pair of speakers, like a 'Zone' that simply mirrors whatever the main zone is dishing out? Since that 'zone' would have no discrete control, I could put a switch on the wires to shut them off if I needed to (a lightswitch-style device would be very low-tech and not very audiophile of me, but who cares if it's simply piping into the garage, etc?).

I have read that you shouldnt turn up an amp past half way, because of speaker damage. The RX-v1700 volume range is 16 to -80. Half way would be -32. For some music and movies I like to go as high as -24. Do I need to be concerned? I have Infinity beta 50's, 20's and c360 center. Also have a Definitive 12" sub.

I am also interested in the biamp question asked by WHATTHEDILEO...