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Official JVC HD-xxFH97 HD-xxFN97 HD-xxFC97 Owners Thread - Page 213

post #6361 of 6625
My JVC 61" was working perfectly except for a couple of dark smudges on the screen. After reading the advice in these posts regarding cleaning, I took the front screen off, cleaned the mirror and lens carefully, then reassembled it. After turning it back on, no more dark smudges, but much to my horror, the entire screen now has a yellow tinge to it, darker in some spots. And the picture doesn't appear as bright as before either. I have no idea what I did wrong; no electronics were touched, no service settings changed, nothing was disassembled except the front screen. The TV is years out of warranty. It looks like I may have to retire it and get a new flat screen unless someone can give me an idea of what happened and how to fix it without trying to track down a costly new light engine.
post #6362 of 6625
Hi

New member and just found this board.

My JVC HD-56FN97 stopped working. A couple of days ago the TV wouldn't come on and instead the POWER LED and LAMP LED are blinking alternately. This code is mentioned in the documentation and is supposed to mean that "It may be a malfunction that the fan is locked or the temperature has increased".

I hired a repairman and he purchased and replaced the SLA-1016A-M2-NP and the QAL0883-001.

He charged a total of $390 with a 1 year warranty in parts and labor.

It started working fine for a few days but the same problems came back. Now he has the 'meat" of the TV trying to see what is still wrong with it and I have the empty screen.

Does anyone have an idea what is still wrong with the TV?

Jason
post #6363 of 6625
Good news for me. I located my bill of sale and found I had purchased a 4 year extended warranty. I am now on year 3 , month 6 of that warranty, so I may be able to get the TV fixed without too much cost after all.
post #6364 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aliefduffey View Post

Hi

New member and just found this board.

My JVC HD-56FN97 stopped working. A couple of days ago the TV wouldn't come on and instead the POWER LED and LAMP LED are blinking alternately. This code is mentioned in the documentation and is supposed to mean that "It may be a malfunction that the fan is locked or the temperature has increased".

I hired a repairman and he purchased and replaced the SLA-1016A-M2-NP and the QAL0883-001.

He charged a total of $390 with a 1 year warranty in parts and labor.

It started working fine for a few days but the same problems came back. Now he has the 'meat" of the TV trying to see what is still wrong with it and I have the empty screen.

Does anyone have an idea what is still wrong with the TV?

Jason

Mine just did something like this, I called up BB (4yr warranty expires late Oct) and a Tech is coming out Sat....We'll see.
post #6365 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aliefduffey View Post

Hi

New member and just found this board.

My JVC HD-56FN97 stopped working. A couple of days ago the TV wouldn't come on and instead the POWER LED and LAMP LED are blinking alternately. This code is mentioned in the documentation and is supposed to mean that "It may be a malfunction that the fan is locked or the temperature has increased".

I hired a repairman and he purchased and replaced the SLA-1016A-M2-NP and the QAL0883-001.

He charged a total of $390 with a 1 year warranty in parts and labor.

It started working fine for a few days but the same problems came back. Now he has the 'meat" of the TV trying to see what is still wrong with it and I have the empty screen.

Does anyone have an idea what is still wrong with the TV?

Jason

Mine does something like this as well, every once in awhile. Sometimes its as simple as trying to turn the tv on a few different times, other times I have to re-seat the lamp. I'm not sure if the lamp is the culprit or not, or if its just the amount of time that I spend unscrewing it then screwing it back in that allows the tv to cool down or something. But I do think it started happening very soon after getting a cheap replacement lamp.

Not sure what those model numbers mean... was that a power board and fan maybe?
post #6366 of 6625
Thanks for the reply. The repairman wrote that it was the Power Sub and the Ballast PCB. He thinks that it is the Battery Back-Up causing the problem, it is about 10 years old. He said something about the Lamp also, saying it maybe have not been put back in correctly. It is still the original Lamp.
post #6367 of 6625
Just replaced the Bulb, but first took the screen off and cleaned it out inside. Mirror didn't look bad, but the lens was covered. Now its super sharp and bright like it was quite awhile ago...now I know its easy to do its never going to be that dusty again.
post #6368 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by SloPoke23 View Post

Good news for me. I located my bill of sale and found I had purchased a 4 year extended warranty. I am now on year 3 , month 6 of that warranty, so I may be able to get the TV fixed without too much cost after all.

Good. Glad it is still covered.

Did you use any cleaners to clean the screen, mirror, or lens?
post #6369 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by dewd View Post

Good. Glad it is still covered.

Did you use any cleaners to clean the screen, mirror, or lens?

The tech told me it is the light engine that needs replacing, and that they are not as expensive as they used to be, and the warranting company authorizes replacing them in 99% of the cases. While I had my eye on a 63" plasma, I still think the picture quality on the JVC ILA is superior.

I did use optical lens cleaner on the lens and mirror originally, but it left a residue on the mirror that I could see when I shone a light obliquely on it. I used plain ordinary distilled water to remove that.
post #6370 of 6625
I need the service Manual for the JVC HD-56FN97. My email steedfj@comcast.net

Thanks
post #6371 of 6625
Update: apparently I fall into the 1%: they are not going to provide a new light engine for my JVC. They will replace it with an LG 60PK550 60" plasma, or a model of my choice if I pay the difference. Would a Samsung 63" plasma be a better choice?
post #6372 of 6625
Hey guys i was wondering if yall could answer a question i have.

I recently bought a JVC HD ILA 56FB97 and the only problem the people who sold it said was that it needed a new lamp. So we got a lamp for it off ebay and we took the old one out and sure enough it had little pieces of glass broken off inside of the lamp.

From the looks of it, the inside where the lamp is placed is pretty dusty. Would it be ok to clean that up a bit or would it potentially damage the TV? Ive owned an LCD and a Plasma but this is my first LCOS/DLP tv.
post #6373 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derrville View Post

From the looks of it, the inside where the lamp is placed is pretty dusty. Would it be ok to clean that up a bit or would it potentially damage the TV? Ive owned an LCD and a Plasma but this is my first LCOS/DLP tv.

Yes, you can clean it with lint free cloth. Actually since it's that dirty, I suspect the main lense is dirty also, you should clean it too. Look back about 4 or 5 page, there's diy procedure.
post #6374 of 6625
Thanks!

Another question. What universal remotes are compatible with this tv? It came without its original remote and i have to reset the lamp timer and i cant because the "select" and "ok" buttons arent working on 3 different universal remotes. Its driving me crazy.
post #6375 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derrville View Post

Thanks!

Another question. What universal remotes are compatible with this tv? It came without its original remote and i have to reset the lamp timer and i cant because the "select" and "ok" buttons arent working on 3 different universal remotes. Its driving me crazy.

Check user manual for the correct part number for the remote and then do a price search on Amazon for starters. Stock remotes can be surprisingly cheap, I've seen them there for as little as $7 new.
post #6376 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckF. View Post

Check user manual for the correct part number for the remote and then do a price search on Amazon for starters. Stock remotes can be surprisingly cheap, I've seen them there for as little as $7 new.

I have they are all around 34-38 everywhere.

Do you really need to reset the timer?
post #6377 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derrville View Post

Thanks!

Another question. What universal remotes are compatible with this tv? It came without its original remote and i have to reset the lamp timer and i cant because the "select" and "ok" buttons arent working on 3 different universal remotes. Its driving me crazy.

I have a JVC remote laying around here somewhere if you are still interested. A few bucks plus shipping and it is yours - PM me if you are interested.
LL
LL
post #6378 of 6625
Add yet another person to the dreaded "yellow blob" list. I had a JVC 61FN97 that I purchased in September 2007. I was extremely satisfied at the beginning: it had a great picture + good sound (for a TV). I began to notice small yellow discolorations some time ago but wasn't bothered too much. More recently, a big yellow blob became glaringly noticeable on the upper left portion of the screen. The positioning of the blob was extremely distracting. Every time the picture had a light blue sky (very often) there would be the blob. The TV had relatively low use and was still on the first bulb after 3 years.

I had a Mack extended warranty: they picked up the TV and ultimately declined to repair it. After a long and frustrating time of trying to get valid information as to what was going on, they offered me $1000.00 cash as a settlement or a Toshiba with a street price of less than $1000. I chose the cash but haven't gotten the check yet

I replaced the JVC with an LG 60PK750 plasma. I'm still evaluating the picture quality but the sound quality is far inferior to the JVC.

Considering the number of bad light engines, you would think JVC would have come up with a way of reducing the repair cost; I would have prefered to just have the JVC repaired and returned.
post #6379 of 6625
It's a flawed design. That is the reason why they aren't selling these sets. Aside from projectors, LCoS is no longer sold as televisions. Both Sony and JVC dropped them right around the time the "green blob" issue w/ Sony got bad.
post #6380 of 6625
I have been reading this forum for the last few days, and truthfully i have only gotten through about 70 pages of posts so far, i have been reading them on and off. But anyway. I bought my 56FN97 a couple years ago, and unfortunately, at least to me, this TV has never preformed as good as some of the reviews i have seen in this thread.

I dont have any blob issues or anything like that. But from the very first day i have owned this TV it has been really dark, i haven't seen anything at all with SSE or at least i have never noticed it. But the TV just does not seem to preform like it should. It's just too dark. I can turn the brightness up to max along with some of the other settings, i have turned off all the extra settings and everything. But it still is a very dark screen, and it just doesn't seem like it should be like this. I have been looking at my local BB (They are the only place in town that offers Calibration) But before i go ahead and shell out the 300 dollars, i'm just wondering if it is worth it, and if the calibration will bring the brightness out of this TV that i should of seen from day 1.

Besides the brightness issue this has been an absolutely wonderful TV, and despite the fact i am already on my 3rd bulb i have had no real problems with this television at all. I have opened this set and cleaned absolutely everything i could reach with lint free cloths. The back mirror is perfectly clean, the projection lens is clean, i mean everything i could reach with just removing the screen i is clean and dust free, and like i said before. No blobs or anything on the TV, i did the cleaning hoping it would bring out more of the brightness in the set. But unfortunately i still have to crank the brightness all the way up to +30 to even watch the TV.

Anyway i have rambled on enough, and i'm hoping all the awesome ex-owners, or still current owners of these sets could chime in and let me know if a calibration might fix this brightness issue and give me the picture i have been missing for the 2 years i have owned this set.
post #6381 of 6625
Before you spend $300 on a "big box store calibration", I suggest you try your own calibration. Get Spears & Munsil, Avia II, or Digital Video Essentials and follow the instructions.
post #6382 of 6625
I will start looking around for a copy of DVE, the only reason i had not considered that previously is because i didnt know if DVE helped you set things like in the service menu. I just cant help but wonder if someone else had this set before me, and they changed something that is making this set so dark.

Thanks for the input though, and i will get my hands on a DVE disc asap and see where things stand after that.

Steve
post #6383 of 6625
You might want to check the color drive levels in the service menu.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...98#post9544198
post #6384 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by ove1 View Post

You might want to check the color drive levels in the service menu.

Checked the RGB drives in the service menu and they are 138(R) 138(G) 122(B) so these may need to be adjusted some as well.

Thanks for the suggestion on checking the RGB drives, now at least i know they could possibly still be a default setting. I tried using those 2 settings shown in the thread you posted, one of them made the TV look even darker, the other i didnt notice any real change in the picture. I'm going to get my hands on a Calibration DVD and see what that will do.

I just hope that there isn't something else wrong with the set it's self. I really wish i had done all this research a little sooner while the TV was still in warranty. But live and learn.

Steve
post #6385 of 6625
Your drive adjustments appear to be right in the ballpark. It's possible that your Iris setting is off. That setting is in the standard on-screen menus. Try adjusting it. If all else fails, there is a Reset pick in the menu that returns all settings to as-shipped from the factory.

What brand of replacement lamp are you using?
post #6386 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by ove1 View Post

Your drive adjustments appear to be right in the ballpark. It's possible that your Iris setting is off. That setting is in the standard on-screen menus. Try adjusting it. If all else fails, there is a Reset pick in the menu that returns all settings to as-shipped from the factory.

What brand of replacement lamp are you using?

I'll be honest i'm not 100% positive on the brand, i found a store here in town that had replacement bulbs (Used) for 40 dollars so i snagged one of those, i believe the model number on the bulb is CLU110A (I might be a little off on the exact model number, but its close to that) and i really couldnt beat the price.

before you ask the lamp looked absolutely brand new, nice clear glass, the filaments were all in perfect condition and so on, and honestly its a better bulb then even when it was replaced under warranty.

i messed with the iris some, and did see a small change in the quality and brightness of the picture, but it's still not like the pictures i have seen posted in this forum, though it may be getting closer.

This reset option, where exactly is it should i need to pop all the settings back to the shipped state?

Steve
post #6387 of 6625
The Reset is in the main on-screen menu, on the same page as Digital VNR and MPEG NR. You may want to make a note of your menu settings before doing a reset, in case it doesn't improve anything.

I assume that you have cycled through the different Video Status settings (Standard, Dynamic, Theater, and Game) using that button on your remote? Dynamic is usually referred to as "torch mode". When a lamp gets older and dimmer, it actually looks pretty good. Note that each Video Status setting has its own collection of settings that are saved for the on-screen menu. For example, the Iris setting on my set is 0 for Standard and +10 for Dynamic. The Color Temperature for Standard is Low and for Dynamic is High. Etc.
post #6388 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by vixtar View Post

I'll be honest i'm not 100% positive on the brand, i found a store here in town that had replacement bulbs (Used) for 40 dollars so i snagged one of those, i believe the model number on the bulb is CLU110A (I might be a little off on the exact model number, but its close to that) and i really couldnt beat the price.

before you ask the lamp looked absolutely brand new, nice clear glass, the filaments were all in perfect condition and so on, and honestly its a better bulb then even when it was replaced under warranty.

i messed with the iris some, and did see a small change in the quality and brightness of the picture, but it's still not like the pictures i have seen posted in this forum, though it may be getting closer.

This reset option, where exactly is it should i need to pop all the settings back to the shipped state?

Steve

whoa, hold on a second, couple points here (in red)

used bulbs? thats probably part of your problem

filaments? correct me if i'm wrong someone, but these are vapor/spark/'HID' lamps, not filament/incandescent technology, there should just be an anode and a cathode with a gap betwixt them. if your bulb has a filament in it, that might also be why its so dim, its not the right kind of bulb (perhaps its a scam where they hack some halogen bulb into the housing for resale?)
post #6389 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by hikouka View Post

whoa, hold on a second, couple points here (in red)

used bulbs? thats probably part of your problem

filaments? correct me if i'm wrong someone, but these are vapor/spark/'HID' lamps, not filament/incandescent technology, there should just be an anode and a cathode with a gap betwixt them. if your bulb has a filament in it, that might also be why its so dim, its not the right kind of bulb (perhaps its a scam where they hack some halogen bulb into the housing for resale?)

Ok maybe filament was the wrong word, but the metal wire connecting from the top of the bulb to the bottom was in very good shape and looked like it had no true wear on it at all.

As for the used bulb being the problem, it could be, but i dont think so because the tv is actually slightly better since i put in the used bulb, go figure huh? A brand new one from a warranty replacement looked dim, and it blew up within 3 months of regular use. This used one has given better picture then the last one. So maybe i am just using the wrong word when saying filament.

I'll look into buying a new bulb, but honestly i wouldnt expect it to change anything as the other bulb before this one didnt change anything and it was replaced supposedly with the exact OEM bulb.

To Ove1

thank you so much for your help and input so far, I'm pretty new to all of this, but even the small things have made a bit of a difference. I have indeed switched between the modes, and Dynamic, with default settings, well it looks dark. It's not overly bright, and that was one of the things that concerned me. Like i mentioned to the other poster, maybe the used bulb is to blame, i just am not sure right now as this bulb seems to be better then the previous ones i had in the set, which were supposedly brand new.

The Theater mode seems to have a little yellow in it, and it does look a little brighter then even the dynamic mode surprisingly. But i dont really like the tint in it, and so i spend most of my time watching standard or dynamic, standard doesnt look too bad. I just wish it was a little brighter, a little easier to see. So right now i am working in that mode, which was all 0's before i started playing with it.

Steve
post #6390 of 6625
Quote:
Originally Posted by vixtar View Post

Ok maybe filament was the wrong word, but the metal wire connecting from the top of the bulb to the bottom was in very good shape and looked like it had no true wear on it at all.

As for the used bulb being the problem, it could be, but i dont think so because the tv is actually slightly better since i put in the used bulb, go figure huh? A brand new one from a warranty replacement looked dim, and it blew up within 3 months of regular use. This used one has given better picture then the last one. So maybe i am just using the wrong word when saying filament.

I'll look into buying a new bulb, but honestly i wouldnt expect it to change anything as the other bulb before this one didnt change anything and it was replaced supposedly with the exact OEM bulb.

sorry, didn't mean to come off so strong, just wouldn't surprise me if there are companies out there that would pull that kind of scam on people, so it was more directed at that possibility than yourself steve, my apologies for not being more direct about that
theres many 3rd party bulbs that people have apparently had good luck with rather than shelling out for the jvc bulb


Quote:
Originally Posted by vixtar View Post

To Ove1

thank you so much for your help and input so far, I'm pretty new to all of this, but even the small things have made a bit of a difference. I have indeed switched between the modes, and Dynamic, with default settings, well it looks dark. It's not overly bright, and that was one of the things that concerned me. Like i mentioned to the other poster, maybe the used bulb is to blame, i just am not sure right now as this bulb seems to be better then the previous ones i had in the set, which were supposedly brand new.

The Theater mode seems to have a little yellow in it, and it does look a little brighter then even the dynamic mode surprisingly. But i dont really like the tint in it, and so i spend most of my time watching standard or dynamic, standard doesnt look too bad. I just wish it was a little brighter, a little easier to see. So right now i am working in that mode, which was all 0's before i started playing with it.

Steve

you can clear up the yellow some by picking 'high' in the color mode, or by adjusting the RGB drivers in the service menu with a calibration disc
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