Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic
Audius, so you've already replaced (bad) 3300's ? How are all the other capacitors looking, esp. the larger 450's ??
Having replaced the 3300's, and since you are apparently a good solderer/electrician, I'm surprised the TV didn't power up already.
Let's get it on 1st via PLUG-UNPLUG and then re-evaluate.
Yes, I have replaced them - twice - with no luck either time.
I too was very surprised that the cap replacement(s) didn't cure it immediately, as it had in all the other tv's and monitors I have done similar work on. Assuming the rest of the components are good, it should have fired right up, as most others' sets here seem to have done in the past, and apparently without incident.
That procedure was ultimately unsuccessful for me, however, which is why I believe there may be a bit more to my equation than just these 2 caps.
All other Aluminum caps on the PSB *appear* good - I checked them all with a magnifying glass, but I know appearances can be misleading with these.
Checked for cold solder joints too - all ok.
The very largest (pairs of 220uf/450V & 470uf/315V) all have sealed phenolic tops and could not be inspected visually for leaks or domes, but otherwise nothing looks or smells bad or burnt.
There should (in theory) be no need to have to continue the Plug/Unplug sequence once caps C8059 & C8060 are replaced, unless we are trying to jumpstart yet another failed capacitor somewhere in the circuit, which, depending on severity of failure, realistically may never "catch" again... right?
As mentioned earlier, I inherited this set with the Red 7 condition, and I have not yet seen this tv work in any form: I've seen no display action at all... ever. Not even the backlight - just a dark screen.
C8059 & C8060 were replaced per this thread's diagnosis *prior to attempting anything else*, as all discussion pointed to those items as not only being the most likely culprits, but indeed as essentially being "the cure" for Red 7 - and past experience with other flatscreens dictated that was a logical path to follow.
To refresh our memories, here are the symptoms again:
Initial Power-on (plug in) gives a steady Green LED - 2 relay clicks - Ambilights fire up for about 1-2 seconds then relays click it off again.
( ~11 seconds total elapsed time from Power on to relay off )
Green LED remains steady for another *10-12* seconds after that, then reverts to a rapidly flashing Red-7 condition, after which the power can not be toggled from the onboard power switch.
The set must be physically unplugged to restore power.
Since the Ambilights briefly fire up during power-on, that tells me that it is getting power, but as the whole system shuts down immediately afterward, either another capacitor is still bad in the PSB, or some other component elsewhere in the system is not returning a proper "OK" signal to the microprocessor, and telling it to shut off.
It could still be a downstream voltage-related issue: possibly even something on the X-Y boards, but I'm not ready to go there unless it's absolutely necessary.
Scheduling hasn't allowed me to start reading the Service Manual on this yet, but that will provide the complete factory troubleshooting procedure - including expected voltages at specific test points - which should ultimately point to the defect.
I'm convinced it's still got to be something simple, and I still highly suspect that a few other caps have simply heat-failed over time (Mfg date: Sept '06, so just over 4 years old now... a lot of things can get mighty toasty in that time).
I may eventually order all new caps for the primary power section just to be sure it's solid.
Anyway, you will be among the first to know when I get it running.