Philips 42PF9631D HD Plasma - Page 42

Congrats, Chris.....no, I'm sure you will NOT have any problem with 7-blinking LED's...nobody here who has successfully replaced the capacitors has reported any recurrence of the problem.

Quality 50" TV's are actually well-under $1,000 but I guess the ultra-thins with all the bells-and-whistles aren't. But also, while the new backlighting kits are great, having the integrated Ambilight is still the best.

Don't forget to re-set your PDP counter in another 3,900 hours or so !!

sorry if this has been covered but i cant find it anywhere, my 50pf9631d has been giving me an error code of just two repeating blinks, anyone know what is going on?

So.. replaced both caps... turns on perfect

watch tv for 40 mins... now i get 7 blinks again!
arg

And your TV's problem is......???

Check for loose connections involving the PSB or bad soldering connections.

Did you use GOOD/NEW capacitors ??? Same ones as you took out ??

3 Year & 1 Year Anniversary Updates:

Well, since I did the two capacitor replacements both of my Philips plasmas have been working great. It's amazing how much enjoyment you can get out of these TV's outside of whatever technological shortcomings they may have compared to the newer models. After almost a year of having to do the stupid plug-unplug thing it's just nice to hit the POWER ON button on the remote and be able to see a picture.

My 42" is doing light-duty in the bedroom....it has just over 7,000 hours and is probably used 10-15 hours a week, give-or-take. I got it in September 2006 and for just over 3 years it was my main TV doing heavy-duty 30-40 hours a week while I worked in an office, 70-80 when I was job searching and/or working from home. Outside of the capacitor problem, no other problems. I make sure to always use the SLEEP function so the TV turns off when I'm watching in bed late at night; this saves a few hours for the plasma while I'm sleeping before I wake up and turn it off, and it also makes sure a frozen DVR image doesn't stay on the TV for hours, either.

My 50" is doing heavy-duty in the living room.....bought it used off eBay in November 2009 with about 1,800 hours and it now has just over 5,600 hours...so about 60-70 hours a week (probably more with the NFL and playoffs the last few months ). TV's only flaw is red speckles upon startup; last night, they were clearly visible across most of the widescreen SyFy showing of "STAR TREK: FIRST CONTACT" which has darker scenes early in the picture. Went back to re-watch the beginning an hour later after the TV had warmed up, and you couldn't see them unless you looked hard and then it wasn't big patches but just isolated red specks here or there in the corners. Not something I'm concerned with and even less of a problem while watching live-action TV or sports.

Whatever I get from both of these plasmas from now I consider gravy. The cost of a replacement is so cheap now that I consider to have gotten my money's worth for both plasmas ($1,900 for the 42" plus $360 for the warranty; $500 for the 50" including gas/moving costs), though another year from the 50" would be icing on the cake. And while interactive Ambilight Philips models aren't available in the States nor available on any other TV, the LED backlighting kids aren't a bad substitute since most of the time I use the COLOR mode anyway and not the dynamic changing Ambilight modes.

Some of you have gotten to 5-figures (10,000 hours) on your sets....that would be fine for me with the 50" as it would take me another 1 -1 1/2 years to get up to that level.....and probably 3-5 years on the 42".

Well, it's been 3 years since my 50/9631 was repaired for the 7 flashes. Y boards were replaced (10/2007). Then in 2/2009 I noticed the tv was taking longer for the second click when turning it off. That went away on its own.

About 4 weeks ago, the TV started taking 5+ minutes for the second click at turn off. Now the TV is failing to turn on. Usually the first time each day. I'm getting 3 long 3 long 3 fast red lights.

The 6 flash error was addressed in previous posts but I did not see if the capacitor replacement fixed this error.

The service menu shows an error of 63 00 00 00 on the first line. It also shows a component failure of display module.

Looking for help as to this error. I'm debating taking a sledgehammer to this TV.

Thanks.

The delayed 2nd-clickoff is definitely associated with the problem capacitors. Not sure why you are getting 3+3, maybe that's related to a less-severe problem showing up as the ERROR message.

I would do another capacitor replacement....how many hours did you get on the new ones ??? Do you get the TV on now using plug-unplug ??


Forgot, but I know 6 blinks did show up here, maybe 2 years ago. You might have to go back to Pages 12-20 or so to find that. Use the ADVANCED SEARCH or Google to narrow your search.


The "63" error rings a bell for some reason, maybe it showed up on mine -- I'll have to check. Not sure what the component failure is regarding -- could be the 3+3 error message overriding any capacitor problem.


Don't !! You got 3 more years and thousands of hours of use after your last repair....I would think this is solvable, too.

BTW....the 7-blinking capacitor problem wasn't completely ID'd until mid-2008 I believe...is that when you did the repair ?

My original repair was in the winter of 2007. It involved Y boards. I can't remember if the PSB was changed. It's possible the replacement boards have bad caps too.

The TV has 4,000 hours on it but if you add 1/2 hour for every on off, it's much higher as my TV has this odd problem that it turns itself on then off twice a day. The TV clicks on then clicks off but the panel does not power up.

I'm going to try the cap replacement myself. Hopefully it works.

Remember...you just need new capacitors that cost $2 each, not an entire new PSB.


(1) You need to reset the PDP Hours Of Operation to "0000" as it stays frozen at 4,000. The other operation hours number (the 1st one) should be much higher (that's the one that adds 1/2 hour) and doesn't need to be reset.

(2) Did you update your software to fix the BSOD problem ? That's sounds like your ON-OFF problem.


Plenty of pics and explanations here a few pages back. Go with the 10v 3300 caps from Digikey.

I ordered the 3300's from Digikey this morning. The firmware is current.

Good.....reset your Operation HOURS PDP to "0000" if it's at 4,000 still and report back.

Ok, I finally had a chance to open the set. I realize this image is kinda crappy, but if someone could just give me a primer on what I am looking at: what board is what, etc. I don't see any bulging caps, but I have identified three fuses, two with blue stripes and one with green. Any more I should be able to find?

If you've forgotten, I have the set that powers on, no red blinking lights, but I get sound and no picture.

Clearer pic would help though we still haven't ID'd the problem, Ion.

(1) Have you gone back and reviewed posts here and on the 9630 Thread looking for "sound but no picture on Philips 9631" ? Use the Advanced Search, go back to 2006 and 2007 posts (maybe 2008 and 2009's) and/or use Google, too.

(2) No picture from other sources -- Blu-Ray, DVD, VCR, etc ??

Hey PP,

Yes, we already went over all that. Last time I had a power supply replaced, I'm just hoping its simpler than that.

I told you I've tried all kinds of input, no video from anything.

You probably just forgot, its been over a month since my last post...I'm really just hoping you could identify what board is what from my picture.

Yeah, I did....the PSB appears to be the one that is just UP and INSIDE from your left sneaker....it's the one with a bunch of silvery-topped capacitors (there's about 4 medium-sized ones and maybe 5-6 smaller ones).

Now...if the board directly UP and ABOVE your right sneaker has 2 of the 3300 capacitors, that means IT is probably the PSB. From the picture, I can only see 1 isolated one, not a pair which is what we've seen on other PSB's.

Can you tell us where the 3300 10v capacitors are ? Do you see 2 near one another ?

You have the 42" or 50" 9631 ??

Actually, its a 42" 9630, not a 9631.

The board in the middle has lots of capacitors, not on the left. The picture must REALLY suck if you can't tell that! There are two on the board on the right. The board on the left has just a couple of small capacitors, and a whole bunch of aluminum radiators.

Ok, identified power supply, it is the board right in the middle, see this link: http://compare.ebay.com/like/4001235...=263602_309572

Not cheap at $140...

EDIT:

ShopJimmy has it cheaper:
http://www.shopjimmy.com/samsung-lj4...wer-supply.htm

Yeah, they match up with what you have.....I just hate seeing you pay $100+ for a new PSB when it might be a fuse or a couple of capacitors that need replacing.

as you know i did replace my cap , for a new CAP 3300UF 10V ELECT PW RADIAL but this one witch is 7000hrs and the problem came back after couple week , I'm thinking to replace it again but this time i will to ask you , i was reading you can use replace the 3300uf 10v for a 3300uf 25v, 8000hrs ,the only thing is this one is for automotive.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/Dk...4529PHBK-NDcan

I replace it ? what do you think?

thanks

If those are from Digikey, they are the 25v 3300's that others have used here. If they will fit on your PSB without touching or having to be squeezed in, you can use those.

HOWEVER....you didn't get anywhere near 7,000 hours on the other ones...it's not a question of 7,000 hr. capacitors vs. 8,000 hr. ones, it's probably either a bad capacitor or something happened to it when you put it in. I'd personally order 2 new 3300 10v's and try again, though you can order 2 3300 25v ones, too.

(1) Are you still getting the 7-blinking LED's ?

(2) Does your TV only turn on now using "plug-unplug" ?

If 1+2, then this confirms it is 99.9% solely a capacitor problem and I would re-try with the 10v's before going to the 25v's.

We listed the Digikey parts numbers a few pages back, double-check you are getting the right model numbers.

Thanks for the quick response. Yes, I'm still getting the 7 blinking led's. However, can you please re-send me the steps to use the plug-unplug procedure to reset the tv? I checked the caps and they look ok. Do I need to reset the caps hours to 0 once I replace them? If so, can you also please tell me how to do it? I appreciate all your help. Thanks

(1) PLUG-UNPLUG: Plug the TV in.....GREEN LED comes on but it will 'click off' -- UNPLUG the TV BEFORE the RED LED lights come back on.....Wait a few seconds to clear the circuits. If the RED LEDs started to come on before you unplugged above, wait for the RED LEDs to disappear and THEN give it a few more seconds to clear the circuits......Keep repeating the PLUG/UNPLUG, making sure that you unplug the TV as soon as the GREEN LED disappears and BEFORE the RED LED's start to flash.........if you plug the TV in and the TV 'clicks on' and you hear the crackle of electricity indicating it's about to power-on but you DO NOT see the GREEN LED, hit the POWER ON button on the side of the TV. The TV 'forgets' if the POWER button is ON/OFF since the circuits are in flux and the PLUG/UNPLUG is activating the ON/OFF circuits (if the TV worked good, plugging the TV in would NOT turn the TV on, as you know).....Keep repeating the above steps.....depending on how long your TV has had the 7-blinking LEDs, you should be able to do the PLUG/UNPLUG for about 150 times (for me, it was 3 months or 90 days and the TV turned on once or twice a day, tops). As I indicated, if you are are close to the limit, it may take closer to 20 minutes to get it on. If it won't do that, maybe you have already done this the maximum number of times.

(2) Are you sure the caps are "OK" ?? Check out my pics on Page 38.....you're looking for a slight bulge. Even without a bulge, it's POSSIBLE you have a bad capacitor or maybe whoever did the soldering did a bad job (clean solder? older/bad capacitor completely removed ? antenae clipped ? Capacitors not touching each other or other parts ?)

(3) If TV comes on with PLUG-UNPLUG and/or capacitors look bad, it's certainly a capacitor problem. If PLUG-UNPLUG works but capacitors look OK, check soldering job and/or try new capacitors (3300 10v's).....otherwise, see the "FUSE" posts a few pages back.

(4) You talking about resetting the Operation HOURS PDP in the Service Menu ? That is the 2nd number in the Service Menu down the list when you scroll down...the lower number....if stuck at 4,000....re-set to "OOOO" and exit SM and it will start counting up. The Other number need not be reset. You do not re-set 'cap hours.' If you replace the capacitors and the TV works fine, just write down the 2 numbers in your Philips Manual and when they go again you can see how long they lasted. Don't reset the OH PDP just because you changed the caps; it's to track the hours of your TV, not measure the capacitor lifespan.

Yes, I have a multimeter around here somewhere, I need to find it and at least check the fuses. Like I said, I see three of them (one on the PSB, and one on the boards on the left and right.) How could I go about checking capacitors? They all appear ok, I've seen the bulging problem on computer motherboards and none of these look like that.

I'm not sure but if you can find the 3300 10v's there should only be 2 of them, next to one another. You can either check them with an electronic gizmo that tests to see if they're working or replace right away. These things are delicate...rememember, handle with care ....and make sure whoever is doing the soldering is doing a good job and trimming the antenae. The bulge is VERY small....might see some black gunk on top of the capacitors....good ones are 100% flat and bad ones are SLIGHTLY concave...it's not a big bulge to the naked eye....you can see pictures of bad and good caps a few pages back on this thread from me and others who did the replacement.

BTW, that 'delayed click-off' will tell you when your capacitors are going too.....I've put on maybe 1,000 hours on my main 50" 9631 since I replaced the capacitors in September....the click-off was initially instantaneous....I just noticed it's now about 7-10 seconds after I turn the TV off. Eventually, it will extend to minutes. The 7,000 hour limit on the 10v's is apparently much less on the 50" 9631 (more heat ?)...anyway, I'm tracking the hours until they need replacement (if/when) and will compare to my 42" which gets much less usage and is still clicking-off within 2 seconds of the TV being shut.

I'm assuming you mean convex, not concave (a bulge, not a dimple)? I will look at them again (yes, I did identify where the two 3300's are on the PSB), but I don't think there was any indication of a bulge. Since I don't get the 7 red light problem, I'm not sure this is related.

I am intrigued by the click delay though. I never saw that mentioned before. There is at least a few second delay between power off and click, so who knows...

Yeah, convex.....since your getting a no-picture problem and not 7-blinking LED's, it must be something else....I bet it's the fuse.....go back over the fuse posts back a few pages and also re-check the 9630 User Thread.

The delayed-click is related to capacitor wear and since that's not your problem we can worry about that another time.

I checked the click delay- it's only about 2 seconds on my TV.

I'm going to check the fuses as soon as I can find tha darn multimeter...it has to be around here somewhere...

That's about what my 42" has since I replaced the capacitors about 200 hours ago....you're fine here.


Good report back....I'll scan again for no picture/no video with no red LED blinks on the web and in AVS Forum.

I'm at my wits end with this TV. I replaced the two capacitors on the PSB today. It was a PITA until I discovered my soldering iron wasn't hot enough. You need one that goes to 900 degrees.

The TV powers up, no red flashing lights. The problem now is the display panel is dead. I have the green power light, ambilight works, and no sound (can't determine what input is selected).

Any thoughts on what could be the problem. I must have screwed something up during the capacitor change as the display worked prior to the change.