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Philips 42PF9631D HD Plasma - Page 47

post #1381 of 1618
Hey Guys,

Been getting the 6 - 3 blinking red lights lately and changed the 2 caps. Now im getting 7 blinking red lights. Any ideas on why? Thanks!
post #1382 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokekevin View Post

Hey Guys, Been getting the 6 - 3 blinking red lights lately and changed the 2 caps. Now im getting 7 blinking red lights. Any ideas on why? Thanks!

I am not sure if we have EVER diagnosed the 6-3 condition. And I'm perplexed as to why changing the caps would now give you the 7-LEDs.

I am going to assume that THEY might be bad. Did you use 2 good new ones ? Order the Digikey 10v 3300 uf's and get backups. Replace the bad ones and be CAREFUL with the soldering.

I would also check the fuse post here around Pages 34-37 or so.
post #1383 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

Retex, congrats and here's to many more years of use......what was the warranty issue ?

The issue fixed under my extended warranty was back in summer of 2008, I probably wrote about it here at the time. I had those red/yellow sparkles in the upper left portion of the screen. Circuit City Firedog came out to check the TV sparkles. He called it mal-discharge'. They then ordered and replaced the y-main board and adjusted the voltages'. The sparkling was noticeably less, nearly gone during that period after startup. Now that another three years has gone by, I see a few more of those sparkles appearing, but not like it was before the board changeout in 2008. I have been watching the U.S. Open golf tournament this week and the picture is still marvelous!
post #1384 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by retexan599 View Post

The issue fixed under my extended warranty was back in summer of 2008, I probably wrote about it here at the time. I had those red/yellow sparkles in the upper left portion of the screen. Circuit City Firedog came out to check the TV sparkles. He called it mal-discharge'. They then ordered and replaced the y-main board and adjusted the voltages'. The sparkling was noticeably less, nearly gone during that period after startup. Now that another three years has gone by, I see a few more of those sparkles appearing, but not like it was before the board changeout in 2008. I have been watching the U.S. Open golf tournament this week and the picture is still marvelous!

I have the same problem. It's mostly noticeable at startup, esp. on dark screens. If I TRY to look for them from the 9-10' I view from I can see some sparkles moving about in the (mostly) top third and bottom thirds of the screen. But it's not something that someone with normal viewing is going to see. Yeah, and AVS expert with a $2,500 ultrathin flat screen will notice. My friends, parents, and relatives don't.

Unless the problem went up by 4- or 5-fold, I wouldn't risk trying to get a new Y-main and adjusting the voltage. If it stays like this and I get another 5,000 hours, I'll sign up for that right now.
post #1385 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokekevin View Post

Hey Guys,

Been getting the 6 - 3 blinking red lights lately and changed the 2 caps. Now im getting 7 blinking red lights. Any ideas on why? Thanks!

According to the fault code section in the service manual for my model (42pf9631d/10 ) 7 blinks means Error 7 (8V6 error). In case of a TV with SDI display you
will see error 7 blink in case of an audio protection. So
except a problem with the 8V6 itself it is also possible that
there is something wrong with the audio part. See also
paragraph "Hardware Protections" for this

six long blinks then 3 short blinks ( error 63 ) is explained as :
Error 63 (POWER OK). When this error occurs, it means
that the POWER-OK line did not became high. This error
is only applicable for TV's with a SDI display, a FHP display
or a Sharp full HD display. Depending on the software
version it is possible that the detection mechanism of this
error does not function and that the TV keeps rebooting.
post #1386 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by buzandemma View Post

According to the fault code section in the service manual for my model (42pf9631d/10 ) 7 blinks means Error 7 (8V6 error). In case of a TV with SDI display you will see error 7 blink in case of an audio protection. So except a problem with the 8V6 itself it is also possible that there is something wrong with the audio part. See also
paragraph "Hardware Protections" for this

SDI means what ???

Quote:


six long blinks then 3 short blinks ( error 63 ) is explained as :
Error 63 (POWER OK). When this error occurs, it means that the POWER-OK line did not became high. This error is only applicable for TV's with a SDI display, a FHP display or a Sharp full HD display. Depending on the software
version it is possible that the detection mechanism of this error does not function and that the TV keeps rebooting.

FHP means what ??

Do the 6-3 and 7-blinking RED LEDs on the D/10 and D/37 models mean different things ? I didn't think so but maybe yes.....

(1) Solution to 6-3 RED LEDs ?

(2) If you are getting the 7-blink, try new caps (10v 3300 uf's from Digikey)...fuse could also be a problem.
post #1387 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

SDI means what ???



FHP means what ??

Do the 6-3 and 7-blinking RED LEDs on the D/10 and D/37 models mean different things ? I didn't think so but maybe yes.....

(1) Solution to 6-3 RED LEDs ?

(2) If you are getting the 7-blink, try new caps (10v 3300 uf's from Digikey)...fuse could also be a problem.

i dony know what the abbreviations mean but the 42" is an fhp panel and the 50" is an sdi panel. from the manual again :-

The 42 version is equipped with a FHP PDP whereas the 50
version is equipped with a SDI PDP.
The SDI PDP (50 version) comes with a buy-in supply unit,
which makes it a black-box for Service. When defective, a
new panel must be ordered and after receipt, the defective
panel must be sent for repair.
This Power Supply delivers the following supply voltages to the chassis:
+12V
+8V6
+5V2
+5V.
The FHP PDP (42 version) comes with a Philips serviceable
supply unit. This Power Supply Unit delivers the same voltagesto the chassis as the SDI Supply Unit. In addition, this unit
delivers +75 to +90 V (adjusted per display) and +50 to +65 V
(adjusted per display). For a (more) detailed description see
the FTP2.2 E manual.
Main difference with previous sets is that parts from the FHP
Supply Unit (42 version) are transferred to a new panel, the
Platform Supply Panel. In the 50 version with SDI panel, this
Platform Supply Panel is not present.


Also error 6 is a fault on the 5v supply whereas error 7 is a fault on the 8v6 supply
post #1388 of 1618
SDI = Serial Digital Interface
FHP = Fujitsu Hitachi Plasma (reference found here.)
post #1389 of 1618
Thanks Carp....Buzz, report back on new caps.
post #1390 of 1618
BTW...if anybody is interested, my 50" 9631 now has about 7,300 hours on it (about 3,300 since the 2 capacitor changes) and the 'click-delay' is up to about 15 seconds.

It's still under 3 seconds for my 42" 9631 which has about 500 hours since the caps were changed on it.
post #1391 of 1618
going to try to replace the 2 caps. Ordered from Digikey...if this doesnt work any other suggestions before i cut loose my tv?
post #1392 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokekevin View Post

going to try to replace the 2 caps. Ordered from Digikey...if this doesnt work any other suggestions before i cut loose my tv?

Check this thread for the 6-3 blinking LEDs and also GOOGLE it. I'll see what I can find.

Your TV should be fixable.
post #1393 of 1618
Blinking 6-LEDs from a random Google search. May or may not be relevant, do your own DD or research:

Blinking 6-LEDs on a 63" 9631: Odds are your x main is fine. Itprobably just needs a voltage adjustment. You should have a VS and a VA test point on your power supply, or just look for it on the plug that goes to your x main from the power board. There should lso be a sticker on the back of your panel that shows what these voltages are. Compare and adjust as needed. If this does not help your problem, than I would say your power board or panel is the problem. Hope this helps.


37" Model: Check the resistor in the main power supply board as shown:

http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/y...037PF9631D_37/

42" 9631: While this blinking red light may indicate a potential hardware problem, it may just as easily be the result of a built-in protection to prevent the TV from being damaged by power surges. To determine if this is the case, I would suggest unplugging the TV and all connected devices for a few minutes. If the TV operates normally once you've plugged everything back in, the unit may only have needed to be reset....You may also wish to refer to your owner's manual documentation and troubleshooting FAQ for more information. Some model TV's will have error codes listed in the owner's manual that are dictated by the number of times a given light flashes on the front panel of the TV.

9631: The red light blibking 6 times indicates that the power supply board has a defective or damaged area. I know this because i had the same problem...bought a damaged tv for parts and replaced the power supply board as the tv would not turn on...wokrs like a charm now.

Rain Problem ??: I have the same exact problem with my phillips tv 47 lcd, always happens after it is raining. must reset the power strip for it to turn on properly.

9631: The 6 - 3 blink code indicates a problem in the power supply board of your TV and the most common component that fail are the capacitors. Sometimes this can be located easily because they are bulging or vented. If not they need to be checked using a tester or ESR meter.
post #1394 of 1618
just replaced the 2 caps again. TV is still flat on the ground but still getting 7 blinking reds. I hear the clicks when I plug in the power and the led goes green for about 10 seconds before the red starts. Could it be a bad soldering job?

This is all on the 50PF9631 model
post #1395 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by pokekevin View Post

just replaced the 2 caps again. TV is still flat on the ground but still getting 7 blinking reds. I hear the clicks when I plug in the power and the led goes green for about 10 seconds before the red starts. Could it be a bad soldering job? This is all on the 50PF9631 model

Make sure you trimmed the antennae....is that fuse bad from pages 32-38.....can you get the TV on with PLUG IN/PLUG OUT ???

Are there any other bad caps ? Look for bulges.

Are you using the same 10 v 3300uf Digikey caps ?

Get the TV on using PLUG IN/PLUG OUT...if you can get the TV on, you know it's either the caps or something INTERFERRING with the caps (other blown caps or more likely a bad fuse).
post #1396 of 1618
hi!
philipsphanatic
i have a question, my tv now is complete off there no pic but i do get sound, i change channel and i get a perfect sound but no pic , i did check the voltage on the power supply and seen to be some have a littler high, as you know there is a label on the back of the PDP MODULE
with all the voltage and I test it almost all of them with the exception of one the I can,t find. the VSC_H is the one
my question is what is could be the problem for the high voltage.
so here is the voltage on the label and my result



VA, VSC, VS, VE, Vset, VSC_ H
70, -175 198 95 195 -55 tv label
70 -175.1 198.1 95.1 194.2 ? my test
5v2 | 5vsw | 8v6 | 12v | SND_P | SND_N
5.2 5.2 8.6 12.0 18.0 -18.0 tv label
5.23 5.17 8.66 12.1 20.70 -20.70 my test


also I did test te voltage from the power supply to the inverted
far I know the voltage for the boards are

Y Board vs=140v my 194.6v
Z Board ve= 60v 90.2v
Vscan= 190v -198.2v

hope you can help me
thanks
post #1397 of 1618
Kiko, no picture at all from ANY inputs -- HDMI1, HDMI2, Component, Side, SD Card, etc ? Check all possibilities and also use another cable from what you have been using to verify it is NOT the cable you're using now.

It sounds like one of the Circuit Boards is bad -- a few people had this problem, it's on this thread, go back and look for it or Google the problem and it might take you there right away. But definitely sounds fixable.
post #1398 of 1618
I have been reading about bad power supplies with bulging capacitors. My plasma unit worked then didn't work. I removed the back and poked around on the power supply board. Using a digital multimeter with an audio diode test feature, one fuse was open on the power supply board. there's a reason a fuse blows. something's shorted out or open causing an increase in current, enough to blow a fuse. Finding the culprit isn't easy. Like I said, none of the capacitors on the board are bulging or blown out. Where do I look next? The power supply board is LJ44-OO119A.
post #1399 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by tmierzwa View Post

I have been reading about bad power supplies with bulging capacitors. My plasma unit worked then didn't work. I removed the back and poked around on the power supply board. Using a digital multimeter with an audio diode test feature, one fuse was open on the power supply board. there's a reason a fuse blows. something's shorted out or open causing an increase in current, enough to blow a fuse. Finding the culprit isn't easy. Like I said, none of the capacitors on the board are bulging or blown out. Where do I look next? The power supply board is LJ44-OO119A.

What model plasma do you have and what size ? How many hours ?

What are the symptoms and/or problems ?

Blinking LEDs ???
post #1400 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

Kiko, no picture at all from ANY inputs -- HDMI1, HDMI2, Component, Side, SD Card, etc ? Check all possibilities and also use another cable from what you have been using to verify it is NOT the cable you're using now.

It sounds like one of the Circuit Boards is bad -- a few people had this problem, it's on this thread, go back and look for it or Google the problem and it might take you there right away. But definitely sounds fixable.

yes i check all the input and use another cable, and not picture at all, also I find out there is a burn resistor and i test all of then and find like 3 or 4 there are bad, i check the ohms and there are (OL) no resistance at all
I will replace the one i burn out and check again the other if need to be replace
so I'll keep you post it on any change,
thanks and sorry for the late reply
thanks
post #1401 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiko0078 View Post

yes i check all the input and use another cable, and not picture at all, also I find out there is a burn resistor and i test all of then and find like 3 or 4 there are bad, i check the ohms and there are (OL) no resistance at all I will replace the one i burn out and check again the other if need to be replace so I'll keep you post it on any change, thanks and sorry for the late reply thanks

If you find out the problem and fix it, please post pics...and tell us again what were the symptons...and what fixed the problem.

Good Luck !!
post #1402 of 1618
Updates from folks withe the 6- and 7-blinking LEDs ???
post #1403 of 1618
One other point, I've seen on a few of the 50" power supplies.

Look for 3 680uf @ 50v, they are hidden under the heat sinks. They will also bulge like the 3300uf.

On 50" with minor mal-discharge, try dropping Vs, Vsc, and Va by approx 5 volts and see if the problem clears.

And everyone please be careful, these supplies can still hold a high residual voltage even after removal (especially if you are having Power supply problems), I have had those knock me senseless and I work on them for a living.

Jim
post #1404 of 1618
A few days back I took my 50PF9630A down to replace a speaker that sounded bad and to also try to fix an ambilight light that blew out. I fixed the speaker but had no idea on how to fix the light. Before putting the back on I decided to see if the TV still worked. That's when I got the seven blinking light. I've ordered the capacitors and will report the outcome when the parts come in.


p.s. When the ambilight went out I called Philips to see if they still honor the recall. I was informed that they have no parts for the TV but will give me $200 for the TV if I want. I told them I'll just keep the TV and they gave me an open invite to call them if I ever changed my mind.
post #1405 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by 74f100 View Post

One other point, I've seen on a few of the 50" power supplies. Look for 3 680uf @ 50v, they are hidden under the heat sinks. They will also bulge like the 3300uf.

Which problem will this correct ? And how much are these capacitors ?

Quote:


On 50" with minor mal-discharge, try dropping Vs, Vsc, and Va by approx 5 volts and see if the problem clears.

How do we do that ?? And how would someone measure it (I take it this is for an experienced technician/electrician) ?

Quote:


And everyone please be careful, these supplies can still hold a high residual voltage even after removal (especially if you are having Power supply problems), I have had those knock me senseless and I work on them for a living.

Good warning, Jim.....after unplugging the TV, how long before its safe to mess around with the innards ? An hour ?
post #1406 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by carpenter940 View Post

A few days back I took my 50PF9630A down to replace a speaker that sounded bad and to also try to fix an ambilight light that blew out. I fixed the speaker but had no idea on how to fix the light. Before putting the back on I decided to see if the TV still worked. That's when I got the seven blinking light. I've ordered the capacitors and will report the outcome when the parts come in.

Just one Ambilight blew out ? How many hours on your TV and how often is the Ambilight used ?

BTW...reminder...everyone always turn off your Ambilight BEFORE the TV goes off so it doesn't power-up on start-up. It's unnecessary wear-and-tear on the TV and the Ambilight to have to start-up both.

Quote:


p.s. When the ambilight went out I called Philips to see if they still honor the recall. I was informed that they have no parts for the TV but will give me $200 for the TV if I want. I told them I'll just keep the TV and they gave me an open invite to call them if I ever changed my mind.

Worth more as parts, let's hope you can fix it.
post #1407 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post
Just one Ambilight blew out ? How many hours on your TV and how often is the Ambilight used ?
Yes, just one. I was watching TV and the TV shut down and rebooted by itself. When it came back on the left light stayed off.

I don't have the original remote and the remote I have (directv remote) doesn't work well when entering the service menu code, it just changes the channel. Yes, I switched it to TV first!


Quote:
Worth more as parts, let's hope you can fix it.
Are you thinking Ebay or something? I know the screen is worth a lot. They're fairly hard to find under $300 anywhere. I have a couple 42" samsungs in the garage with broken LCDs. For the cost of a replacement screen I could just buy a new TV.
post #1408 of 1618
Interesting Philips service menu link.
post #1409 of 1618
I replaced the C8059 & C8060 3300 micro farad capacitors in February 2010. That fixed both the 7 blink problem and the 6 + 3 blink problem that I had at that time, with thanks to this board for good advice. So far no other problems. I bought the set in July 2006, so it has been a great purchase for me, still has that beautiful picture after five years!
post #1410 of 1618
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilipsPhanatic View Post

Which problem will this correct ? And how much are these capacitors ?

All the problems can be associated with caps. Most of the error codes flashed are actually SSB related errors. But I am going off the top of my head, and with any of these Samsung panels, I check power supply caps before trying to troubleshoot anything. Not sure of price, I buy in bulk (I go through hundreds of capacitors a month)



How do we do that ?? And how would someone measure it (I take it this is for an experienced technician/electrician) ?

Yes, I'm assuming you know how to measure voltages, and have the equipment.



Good warning, Jim.....after unplugging the TV, how long before its safe to mess around with the innards ? An hour ?

When the power supply is working an hour should be sufficient. It's when it fails that the capacitors don't get bled down. Any time you work on a power supply with big filter capacitors, it isn't a bad idea to discharge them.

Take a set of shielded needle nose plyers and touch the + side to the - side. It will make a loud pop,,, arc and generally make you jump. If you don't get an arc, then it has already discharged. I have broken more power supplies from not doing this (yes, I'm a tech and I know better), and they shock me, I then drop the supply and break it.

Be safe,
Jim

That came out odd....
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