Philips 42PF9631D HD Plasma - Page 6

Sorry guys.
I used the Canadian mirror to find/get updates - maybe the Canadian segment was updated before the USA?
[I can't post the link because I need 5 posts first.]

There is no mention of the date of the release on the Canadian website, other than the version number which was 1.9.0.0 - I was on 1.8.0.0, so it was newer to me. The date of the actual file was November 21 when I posted and downloaded the file on November 30, but that doesn't mean it was released then - just probably created on that web server then.
The file posted on the USA site is dated November 28, and it's the same file version, 1.9.0.0.

Anyway, I did install it on my set, and to be honest, I don't notice any difference. Maybe if I had HDTV I would, but SD looks the same -- maybe my eyes aren't quite discerning enough. Also, I'm not currently using HDMI with any device, so I can't comment on improved PQ using that connection. Also, I haven't been into the service menu, so I can't comment on "improved info in service menu".

So far, I'm still very happy with this purchase and look forward to getting HDTV and HDMI devices to connect to really test it out.

Thanks Advil, and if you hear of any 'improved nfo in the service menu' let us know (though since we're not supposed to be in there in the first place, my guess is it's probably more important for the technicians).

Mike, thanks for the explanation. I just know that the 1st time I tried to update with the 'newer' firmware, it told me it would be overwriting another file -- which I presume was something from the August upgrade (which I did in October since I only got my set in September). Anyway, since the TV is working great and I wasn't sure what I was doing -- and I knew that my Philips-only USB stick had the correct upgrade ONLY stored -- I stopped the process there and didn't proceed to unzip or extract or get data onto the USB. A friend helped me the 1st time so I'll wait for him to get the correct (updated November) stuff onto the USB.

I'm sure Philips won't have 2 updates within a month, so I still have time !

PhilipsPhanatic;
All of the update files (so far) have had the same file name inside the zip file as well as the Zip file name itself. I don't know why the zip file is the same, but the firmware file is the same so that the TV knows to load that file, I suppose.
If you want to keep your old firmware, move it from the USB disk and rename it to something else on your computer, or move the firmware into it's own folder on the USB disk or your computer. The TV will only load the firmware if the file is located on the root of the USB file system. (like c: or d: or e: or however it shows up on your computer). It won't look under "C:\\9.1.0.0 flash\\" for example.
The Zip file will have the firmware file called autorun.upg (remember, named the same as your previous firmware) and a text file called FirmwareUpgradeReadme.txt telling you what's changed in each release. Download and extract the files to the root of the USB disk (i.e. not in a folder on the disk). With the TV off, plug it into the side USB slot, then turn on the TV. The TV does the rest, checks for corruption (CRC check), verifies it worked, then tells you to turn off the TV. It's really very easy. If you loose power during the process, keep the USB disk in, and restart the TV. It should restart the flash process.

I wish my FTA box was that easy!!

Sorry if you know all of this, but for others who've never done one, this thread can be a good "how to". It sounded like you weren't sure about the process.

Advil, thanks...I think you lost me in your instructions but my more computer-savvy friends will understand it and be able to 'save' my earlier upgrades even though they share the same names as the newer fixes.

I think I understand it -- a bit: the Zip and Firmware files are the same, it's the software code (the "1.9" and "1.8" things) that change ? Like having a new Word Document that has the same File and Folder name as something else you saved earlier, so it replaces the earlier versions, right ?

Exactly. If open an existing Word file, change something and resave it, you've lost your "old" document and re-wrote it with new "code". A filename is just a filename. It's the code of that file that matters, and unfortunately Philips doesn't differentiate that at all, so if you want to keep a running history of firmwares, it's up to you to rename them to something that will help you decipher which is which (ie: rename the files to a date, or version number).

Has anybody wall mounted their 42PF9631D?
We are currently in the market for one, and after talking to the sales reps from the store where we purchased, it seems that Philips does NOT use standard mounts.... that figures. The mounting brackets on the TV's are wider than most other TV brands, so we have to purchase more expensive (most likely) mount brands and/or models.
The model that we're looking at is a SANUS VMPL3b. Does anyone have experience with this mount, or any others that will fit this TV? It was on sale this weekend for 20% off it's normal price which still put it well over $200.
We are looking for slim body, with tilt.

Got it.....unfortunately, I did the download of the new firmware to my PC so I guess that's already overwritten but my USB stick is still non-touched so I should be able to get the August one back from there onto my PC and then re-download the new one and save it to a new name. I might need help, but I know what has to be done !

Thanks, Advil !

Not yet, and mine is about 18" in front of shutters with thin fabric strung on each, so the Ambilight effect is kinda diminished. It's still there, but not as good as if the set were closer to the wall and/or going against a solid white background instead of wood & cloth window shutters leading to the outside.

When you finish, report back on how Ambilight looks when it's closer to the wall, preferably monocolor white.

Also let us know what wall mount you got, from where, and how it works. I wasn't concerned about any particular wall mounting problems with this TV since I knew it'd be a while before I did it, if at all.

Hey Guys! Purchased the 50" 9631 yesterday from a local retailer who pricematched a local membership clubs online price of 1999.99 for me! I have to say, after having the 46" Vizio LCD(bad buzzing, motion artifact) and then the 5020HPM Maxent (Bad HDMI), I have learned my lesson. I should have just spent the extra money initially and got this set! I love it. I already dialed the picture down to 45/45 for the settings, and have gotten the tips sheet and am in the process of reading it. The Ambilight is outstanding. I can see a huge different in picture quality over the other two, and cannot wait till I can turn the picture up!

Do you guys think I need to install the new software on it? Any other suggestions? I'm running my 360 through the component, and cable through the HDMI. Haven't used the 360 yet, but the HD content looks great even on minimal settings.

Congrats Scmedic, and all the best.

No, don't worry about the new software right away UNLESS you experience the BSOD (TV goes off) or you are up-and-running with the TV fine and comfortable with uploading that ZIP file for the firmware. I found the process a bit tricky the 1st time. Also, you might want to get a USB stick that is ONLY FOR the Philips, so it doesn't have other junk on it. I did my 1st upgrade after about a month, but it's up to you.

45-45 on contrast/brightness is OK; I had mine in the mid-to-high 30's the first 2 weeks and then took it into the mid-40's before I calibrated completely. Mid40's should be OK, but go no higher until 2007.

How's SD viewing ?

Remember, watch that bright-yellow PIP and don't use Ambilight if you're at your PC or if it's daytime or the lights are on (no need to overuse the lights).

Congrats !

Cool..Thanks for the suggestions..

45/45 is pretty dark viewing..I'm hoping once it's broken in and calibrated that the picture improves a lot!

Put up with it for a few weeks...it's worth it. Hey, I had mine in the mid-30's: on non-HD channels or dark scenes or VCR playbacks, I could barely make out people in room settings !!!

If there's a particular show you really want it a bit higher, that's OK (low 50's max) -- but keep it in the 40's if not lower, ESPECIALLY when you're not really paying attention to the TV (talking, friends over, PC work, etc). This helps break it in when you aren't as concerned with the darkness.

100 hours (even 200) goes quick, don't worry. In the meantime, read the manual, fool around with the OSM and 9631 features, and read the Tips Sheet.

Read the tips sheet today. Have people had issues with burn-in/IR with this set?

The 9631 owners benefitted from the the 9630 guys experience. Major things to avoid burn-in are PIP and static images:

(1) Do not use side-by-side PIP.

(2) Make sure to turn little PIP box back from bright yellow when functions pertain to that box (not bigger box). Border should be gray.

(3) If watching TV at night when you might fall asleep, use sleep timer so a fixed image doesn't come on when you're sleeping.

(4) Make sure DVD player has screen saver in case DVD ends or power is turned on so fixed image doesn't burn in.

(5) Ditto VCR's: make sure that on-screen display from VCR (VCR length, time, etc) aren't visible along bottom of TV, especially if you fall asleep or leave TV for any length.

(6) If playing games, don't play the same game for hours on end: switch games and/or watch a few TV channels on the hour to give TV a rest.

(7) Ditto TV's with stock tickers or sports tickers: just channel surf every hour or two for a few minutes...don't let CNBC or ESPN-HD on for 6 hours straight.

(8) Contrast and brightness are the secondary cause behind the reasons listed above; so if playing a game, turn C & B down a bit from normal TV viewing as an extra precaution.

It's tough to get burn-in or IR if you are careful and just avoid a major screwup (i.e., using side-by-side for more than a minute; leaving little PIP box yellow; TV is on to a DVD's static menu or the DVD players menu). Don't be paranoid, just cautious. Think of it like a PC monitor but more resilient.

Cool. Thanks for the input. What code works for our TV to check hours usage? Also, being that I'm using HDMI, is it worth adding the new firmware. I do have a thumb drive, and vast technical ability to perform this.

Is the 42" 9631/9630 threads useful for our set? Do the menu's, functions,settings pertain the same way? I don't see a dedicated thread for the 50PF9631D's...

I have wall mounted mine. I used the standard Sanus (not sure of the model number) tilt wall mount and it works fine. You have to use some small adapters but, otherwise, it was very easy. Mounts like a picture.

BB price matched Costco and I ended up getting the wall mount for $89.00. I couldn't pass it up.

I can snap a few pictures when I get home from my road trip if you'd like.

"062596" using the Philips remote -- the "6" won't enter, hit the INFO button on the remote and the WARNING screen comes on. Proceed and the 2 operation hours (total hours and hours + 1/2 hour per On/Off cycle are on the 1st screen). DON'T FOOL AROUND ELSEWHERE AND BE CAREFUL TO EXIT PROPERLY -- EITHER TURN OFF THE TV OR HIT "MENU" on the remote to escape.


Sure, go ahead. Do the AUTOMATIC update (TV off) as it's easier. You may want to rename the underlying -- "1.8", "1.9" -- updates from the zipped files so that you have them for future use if necessary (downloading will keep erasing older saved versions as I learned from the 9630 thread).


Yup, ditto the 63" -- sets are probably 99.99% or 100% identical. As for the 9630's, some cosmetic/remote control differences but very minor -- I go there all the time for useful information. I'll even check in on the 7220's and 7320's and the LCD threads, too (less useful but still learn a bit here and there). But the 9630 and 9631 threads give you 98% of useful information for your Philips model.

Just for future reference, what's the "must do's" or "must avoids" when wall mounting -- you have to attach to a stud or strong board, right ? Anyway to verify weight loads? These TV's weigh 90-95 pounds -- that's a heavy picture !

Why do I have to be so careful with the hours menu?


Anyone calibrate with Avia or DVE and get good results?

You must ABSOLUTELY stud hang these. You want to make sure that all 4 lag bolts are in the studs. There is some pre-drilling required and a quality stud-finder is a must. I verified my mount by hanging off of it before I put my TV up.

First, you figure where you want to mount it, place the wall plate on the wall, check for level, and pre-drill (I can't remember the size) your holes into the studs. Install the lag bolts into the wall. Then, you use the adapters that came with the TV to mount the TV bracket on the TV. Then, hang it like a picture on a rail.

It's really not that bad. Of course, I didn't drill into my wall to hide my cables, but I have a dresser in front holding my components, and it covers up the wire bundle I created.

That would be great if you could! We're getting it for Christmas and will be wall mounting in early January sometime (along with a room re-decoration/painting). I found the model I'm looking at online for just over $200 (CDN) online whereas the BB Canada has it for $300 ... could you also check your model, perhaps? I'm going to have to have a look at Costco, but it's hit or miss with that store around here - you go one week and see something you want, and the next week it's not there and never to be found again. I don't know if it's like that in Canada, just around here, or everywhere, but I imagine that the selection is better in the US, like most stores.

It's not that menu per se, it's accidentally going into one of the sub-menus or 'touching/changing' something that I'm letting you know about. We're not even supposed to be in the SM -- did you see that WARNING block come up ?

Just be careful....others here are getting better PQ results by changing the data dealing with colors, and you'd want to jot down the original settings before doing anything there in case the change is worse on your particular set.


I have DVE...did an OK job. I found the disk a bit tough and didn't do a good job on grays/blacks.

My 42" is still in the box, just delivered yesterday.

For cleaning up the settings on my 50" LG I used the THX Maximizer that is on THX movie DVD's. I like the outcome. Going to switch the 50" to HDMI cables from M-price.

I've played with Avia and it's alright, but found it to be a little outdated. During most of the settings they refer to your CRT picture tube
But it will work for setting correct contrast and brightness. I couldn't do the colour settings because I didn't have the 3D glasses things to check it against.
From what I've heard, DVE is a lot more complex, and also goes into correct stereo and surround speaker placement, etc. If you're just hoping to tune your TV, this one might be a little more than you're looking for, but it will definitely work as well.

You can always use the ELF DVD that AVS is offering to raise $$$ for charity.

Here's the one that Costco has. They show $129.00 including shipping.


http://www.costco.com/Browse/Product.aspx?Prodid=10042361&topnav=&whse=BC&Ne=4000000&N=4017823&Mo=2&No=0&Nr=P_CatalogName:BC&cat=28600&Ns=P_Price|1||P_SignDesc1&Sp=C&hierPath=79*47164*28600*

So what's the verdict on the calibration DVD's? Monster has one, DVE, ELF, and Avia...

What movies are the THX optimizers on?

DVE is very thorough, though tough to do at times. Equally in-depth on both video and audio. I think it's for an intermediate level HDTV person, if not advanced or even pro. You will probably find yourself going back over sections and re-doing stuff or replaying the narrators' instructions.

ELF seems alot more basic. I haven't gotten it yet but heard from some who have it. Pretty good and alot simpler.

GetGray is very good but you have to download it. I like that it's specifically designed for fixed-pixel displays, though.

Not familiar with Monster.

Yes, can we get a list of movies with this THX optimizer on them ??!!!

If these calibration disks are going to lead you into the SM, then some of us might not want to make those adjustments. It might be easier for Philips 9630/31 owners to just do a basic visual by what looks right and/or use other Philips owners as a reference guide. Changing levels in the OSM will help, but I'm not sure OSM + DVD calibration disk is going to be that dramatic unless you change settings in the SM. Myself, I'm not sure I'm ready for that yet.

I know a few of you who have entered the SM to do more intricate calibrations...please post what you did in the SM, and in the OSM, and if you did this by eyes-only or with a DVD disk. Let us know if it's something anybody can do or if it should be done only by experts. Needless to say, everybody should write down any original settings in the OSM, CSM, and SM if you change settings so you can always go back before you fiddled.

if it's any consolation, i used DVE just to calibrate contrast and brightness. Then it's fine for DVDplayback since DVE is a dvd. But when switching back to TV mode, it came out too dim so had to bring it up a little, kinda wish this tv had independent settings per source and not just global changes. I only have a dvd using hdmi and tv broadcast through coax. Nothing from component yet. just my 2 cents.

You shouldn't be able to detect changes between DVD and the TV....I do note that my VCR is darker because it's 100% analog and a weaker signal given the technology.

Experiment a bit and see how component looks for DVD's and TV.

I pretty much used DVE only for Brightness and Contrast, too, plus color and maybe one other alignment. Since I'm using the TV's speakers, didn't even bother with audio, though I checked it out and could tell the stereo quality through their tests.