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2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732) - Page 8

post #211 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by RudyMeister View Post

Sorry but you just got taken by the samesman for the $300 in cable. You should have gone to monoprice online and got some.

Professional caibration? I'm under the impression that we may not need it. These sets look awefully good right out of the box.

Ok. Good info.

Good news is I will be returning the Monster cable.

I guess I'll wait and see about professional calibration.

Anybody have any ideas on improving the SD PQ on these sets? I know you can't make SD = HD in PQ, and it is not horrible I just want to tweak anything (easy) that I can!
post #212 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roozter View Post

Ok. Good info.

Good news is I will be returning the Monster cable.

I guess I'll wait and see about professional calibration.

Anybody have any ideas on improving the SD PQ on these sets? I know you can't make SD = HD in PQ, and it is not horrible I just want to tweak anything (easy) that I can!

My suggestions were orphaned prior to your last post on the previous page...
post #213 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

My suggestions were orphaned prior to your last post on the previous page...

Thanks for pointing that out! I'll try those things.

As for the non-DVD audio. I was asking how do I get my satellite audio to my receiver for surround sound in the best format/quality?

Use the digital coax out from TV to the Receiver?

Then also, my PS2 does not have HDMI. It has Component audio and video and optical for audio I think.

Thanks for the tips.
post #214 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

Sorry to say, but you got completely taken. For a complete setup using the best cables available from MonoPrice (which are some of the best out there), you would be spending under $100. In the digital world, "expensive" cables mean next to nothing for cable runs under 15ft.

Check also hdmi cables from svideo (all 1 word w/the usual w's and dots, etc where they belong) Excellent quality and free shipping.

Don't be held hostage by ridiculous cable prices.
post #215 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roozter View Post

Thanks for pointing that out! I'll try those things.

As for the non-DVD audio. I was asking how do I get my satellite audio to my receiver for surround sound in the best format/quality?

Use the digital coax out from TV to the Receiver?

Then also, my PS2 does not have HDMI. It has Component audio and video and optical for audio I think.

Thanks for the tips.

Absolutely do NOT rely on the audio output from the Mits to provide you the "best" quality. Dolby Digital passed into your Mits will NOT be passed back out. You should always run audio cables from your external devices to your receiver. Assuming your receiver has all the decoding options built in (i.e. Dolby Digital and DTS are the most popular) you'll want to use TOS-Link (Fibre) and set the device to pass bitstream so that the receiver is doing all the decoding.
post #216 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by RudyMeister View Post

Just wanted to get a quick unscientific poll.

To 732 owners.... why did you chose this set over the 831?

Firstly, I needed a tv now (one died) and it was available. Secondly, price, I was considering the Sammy 6187, which got real cheap, for the few extra $ this set seemed like a good compromise, didn't feel like spending the xtra $300(?) on the 832.
post #217 of 2650
I was playing with the SpyderTV and CalMAN last night, and have definitely come up with some good initial settings (I have a 65732). Based on the software's feedback, here is a good starting point.

Contrast - 61
Brightness - 33
Picture Mode - Natural
Color Mode - Low
All others - 31

I realize these are basic, but hey, you have to start somewhere
post #218 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RudyMeister View Post

Just wanted to get a quick unscientific poll.

To 732 owners.... why did you chose this set over the 831?

  • Dealer strongly recommended I wait for it - all he had was the 731, glad I listened to him and waited
  • Didn't feel like waiting even longer for the 831, old set dead, really needed asap, waiting 3 weeks for the 732 was painful enough
  • After seeing the 831 I'm comfortable with my decision, the 180w lamp & HC screen look to me to be grossly overhyped (feel free to disagree)
  • Cost was never a consideration; mine was an insurance replacement. My portion (out of pocket) for a 732 was $605. I could have bought the 831 for $375 more (but would had to have waited addt'l 2~3 weeks). Before you ask about only $375 diff, remember we're working with an insurance adjuster and a wholesale distributor, not a retailer
  • Can I see the difference? Gunned-up for display in the store, sure. Once adjusted for personal viewing tastes so as to not burn the retina in your eyes, the difference is only slightly perceptable. Maybe $100 worth of difference, certainly not $500 worth, especially when you consider that the lamps (150 vs 180) are exactly the same replacement cost ($249)
  • Just an observation, the 831's glossy black case is pretty in daylight or brightly lit room when you're not watching TV, but in subdued lighting the bezel around the edge of the screen reflects ambient light from adjacent rooms behind you (flashlight test from behind in the showroom)
post #219 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wahooslayer View Post

Just ordered my 65732 today, got a great price (thanks, friend), going to be delivered Friday, along with an 8300 DVR from the cable company. Now all I need is a stand, cables, DVD player, cables, receiver (I am completely uneducated on sound), and lots of know how. But I'm seriously stoked nonetheless.

Well, here it is, Friday 9/22, the first day of Autumn and you're getting your new set today. We'll expect a complete report, from the delivery & setup experience to your impressions of the first HD show you watch.
post #220 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by stixx View Post

I was playing with the SpyderTV and CalMAN last night, and have definitely come up with some good initial settings (I have a 65732). Based on the software's feedback, here is a good starting point.

Contrast - 61
Brightness - 33
Picture Mode - Natural
Color Mode - Low
All others - 31

I realize these are basic, but hey, you have to start somewhere

TIP: For anyone wishing to try these settings, if you're now using Picture mode = Bright, switch this setting to "Natural" first, then make your other settings. That way you can switch back to your previous settings only by changing your Picture mode back to "bright". All prior settiungs seem to be memorized or stored in the Picture Mode setting. This can also be handy for having custom settings for daylight vs darkened room viewing.
post #221 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by stixx View Post

I was playing with the SpyderTV and CalMAN last night, and have definitely come up with some good initial settings (I have a 65732). Based on the software's feedback, here is a good starting point.

What is CalMAN? Does it just support the SpyderTV, or can it be used with other devices? I have an Eye One Pro spectrophotometer that I use for my desktop monitor and printer profiling. It occurred to me that it might also be useful for calibrating the TV's color but I haven't had a chance to look into how exactly to do that.

Thanks,
post #222 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by JKohn View Post

What is CalMAN? Does it just support the SpyderTV, or can it be used with other devices? I have an Eye One Pro spectrophotometer that I use for my desktop monitor and printer profiling. It occurred to me that it might also be useful for calibrating the TV's color but I haven't had a chance to look into how exactly to do that.

Thanks,

CalMAN definitely works with more devices than just the Spyder2. Take a look at their website:

www.calman.tv
post #223 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

The SD will get a bit better when you get away from the s-video. Also consider the fact that you can't compare at the same viewing distance between a 40" and a 73" (from the same distance, the 73 will look worse)

Right. But I have the 40" in my bedroom and the 73" in my living room. The viewing distance for the 73" is greater than the viewing distance for the 40" but probably not the same ratio. I'll have to take some measurements.
Quote:


Sorry to say, but you got completely taken. For a complete setup using the best cables available from MonoPrice (which are some of the best out there), you would be spending under $100. In the digital world, "expensive" cables mean next to nothing for cable runs under 15ft.

Ok, I'll be shopping around and returning those expensive cables. Thanks!
Quote:


Quote:
Originally Posted by roozter View Post

1. Satellite Receiver goes into TiVo via svideo and analog audio
2. TiVo goes into the TV via svideo and analog audio on INPUT 1 (named DVR)
3. DVD video goes into TV via composite cable (named DVD)
a. DVD audio goes into Onkyo via digital coax
4. Playstation 2 is not setup yet.
a. How should I connect PS2? Optical into Onkyo, and HDMI into TV, w/ analog audio into Onkyo? Will this even work?
5. How should I send my non DVD audio into my receiver? Use the digital out?

Quote:
Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post


1. moot after sunday
2. moot after sunday
3. ok, make sure you calibrate video
4. ps2-hdmi-tv & ps2-optical-Onkyo
5. ?Where is the audio coming from?

I realized I got my connection types confused on #3. I'm using Component for the DVD not composite.
Quote:


Is the set on or off? If off, are you seeing the weird shape(s) as a lighter-colored blob near the center of the screen? (This is normal and is a reflection of ambient light off of the mirror, goes away when set is on)

The set is off when I see this. Thanks for the info!
Quote:


If you're rich, why not?
Otherwise:

HDNet on tuesday mornings around 5am (check your listings) sends out test patterns you can use to perform a basic calibration between your satellite box and the TV.

Get a decent calibration disc like Avia or DVE and calibrate your set to your DVD player.

Great!, thanks again! I played with some of the settings this morning and noticed the contrast setting was all the way up. Is this the factory default or did I have someone else playing with the picture settings? (likely)
post #224 of 2650
Is there Fry's sale going on for the 732?

If so, can you tell me what store? Can you IM me what you paid?

thanks!
post #225 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

Well, here it is, Friday 9/22, the first day of Autumn and you're getting your new set today. We'll expect a complete report, from the delivery & setup experience to your impressions of the first HD show you watch.

Well, I called the "salesman" this afternoon to find out why my set hasn't been delivererd yet today, and I get the "sorry, it's not in yet, someone should have called". Thanks for nothing. Now I'm told the middle of next week. Boy, am I peeved. Poor.
post #226 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wahooslayer View Post

Well, I called the "salesman" this afternoon to find out why my set hasn't been delivererd yet today, and I get the "sorry, it's not in yet, someone should have called". Thanks for nothing. Now I'm told the middle of next week. Boy, am I peeved. Poor.

Are there any RC Willey stores in your area? That's where I got my 73732 at 9:00 PM on Tuesday and it was delivered and installed by 8:30 AM Wednesday (the next day)
post #227 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roozter View Post

Are there any RC Willey stores in your area? That's where I got my 73732 at 9:00 PM on Tuesday and it was delivered and installed by 8:30 AM Wednesday (the next day)

No, there are not. Thanks, though.
post #228 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by stixx View Post

I was playing with the SpyderTV and CalMAN last night, and have definitely come up with some good initial settings (I have a 65732). Based on the software's feedback, here is a good starting point.

Contrast - 61
Brightness - 33
Picture Mode - Natural
Color Mode - Low
All others - 31

I realize these are basic, but hey, you have to start somewhere

What were you calibrating the set to? Internal Tuner? DVD Player (what brand and model and input method)? Cable or Satellite STB (what brand and model and input method)?

These settings will only generally apply to the pairing you calibrated to. Every different DVD player will have different settings when paired with the same TV. For the same DVD player on the same TV, the settings will also change between input methods (hdmi vs component vs firewire vs ...)

The reason the Mitsu remembers different settings for each input is for this very reason. You calibrate the pairing, not the set "in general."

Caveat: Of course settings like image geometry would be for the set "in general"
post #229 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Roozter View Post

... I played with some of the settings this morning and noticed the contrast setting was all the way up. Is this the factory default or did I have someone else playing with the picture settings? (likely)

I remember one of the image settings being full-right (max) by default...may have been contrast. This is part of the default "torch mode" that makes the set look better in poor sales-floor conditions.
post #230 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wahooslayer View Post

Well, I called the "salesman" this afternoon to find out why my set hasn't been delivererd yet today, and I get the "sorry, it's not in yet, someone should have called". Thanks for nothing. Now I'm told the middle of next week. Boy, am I peeved. Poor.

Bummer! I can relate to being all psyched up and then having my hopes torpedoed. Happened to me with a car once. Crap! Well perhaps the "savings" will help bandage your wounds . Indeed, someone (locally) should have called from the warehouse, especially since an install appointment was made. I fault the folks locally, not Jim.

Did you order 732 or 831?
post #231 of 2650
Quote:


RudyMeister
Just wanted to get a quick unscientific poll.

To 732 owners.... why did you chose this set over the 831?

-Price/Features

The difference between the 731/732 was greater than the difference between the 732/831. I had a 65731 and exchanged it for the 65732, not because the 732 was so VASTLY superior, but becuase I gave the 732 a slight edge and was able to negotiate only a $100 price difference. Plus the front bezel had a chip in the paint, so Fry's was going to have to bring me a new one anyway. So I figured for an extra $100 and the added features, why not upgrade. The 732 has all of the features of the 831 with exception to only a few things. (please feel to correct me if I've left something out)

-High Contrast Screen - makes a difference, but not enough to "WOW" you IMO

-180W bulb - not much brighter than the 150W and probably only needed due to the HCS

-Piano black finish - don't care at all

-Full illuminated remote - *nice* but...honestly don't really care
(me wonders if one couldn't pick up a xx831 remote for the xx732 if one really wanted...thoughts anyone???)

So to me, the $500 ($600 coming from the 65731 I had) was certainly not worth it.
post #232 of 2650
I think the 831 also has a thing called "perfect Tint"
post #233 of 2650
I went to see the 732 again yesterday and I had them connect a dvd player. I took the fifth element with me and played for a while. I was surprised to see jaggies on this tv. Has anybody else seen jaggies?
post #234 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by RudyMeister View Post

I think the 831 also has a thing called "perfect Tint"

The xx732 has Perfect Tint also. (so says Mitsu)
post #235 of 2650
Any news on the EW front? Currently getting close (even a few hours?) to pulling the trigger on the TV and want to get some EW #'s in my head to take to battle with me at UE. Looks like they're gonna play ball on the price/gonna take advantage of No Pay/No Interest till 2008 deal too.

You only live once, right? RIGHT?
post #236 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadClams View Post

Any news on the EW front? Currently getting close (even a few hours?) to pulling the trigger on the TV and want to get some EW #'s in my head to take to battle with me at UE. Looks like they're gonna play ball on the price/gonna take advantage of No Pay/No Interest till 2008 deal too.

You only live once, right? RIGHT?

I bought one on my Panasonic 40" and had two bulbs and a cleaning done free of charge. I also bought that Panny and my new 73732 from RC Willey and the beauty of their extended warranty is the service. All I do is call up the RC Willey store and tell them I have a problem. They send a techinician from a local TV Repair shop and that's it!

For the Mits 73732 it was $499 for 5 years including one bulb replacement in addition to the one bulb under the 1 year manufacturers warranty.
post #237 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BadClams View Post

Any news on the EW front? Currently getting close (even a few hours?) to pulling the trigger on the TV and want to get some EW #'s in my head to take to battle with me at UE. Looks like they're gonna play ball on the price/gonna take advantage of No Pay/No Interest till 2008 deal too.

You only live once, right? RIGHT?

After pouring over this for the last 3 weeks I wound up going (today) with the online offer from Warranty-by-net. After some initial frustrations with getting additional information and see an advance copy of their legal contract, I called them today and got everything I needed, to my complete satisfaction.

The Warranty By Net (run it all together with a com after) plan is the same Repair Master warranty that's also offered by some brick & mortar retailers. It's administered by Warrantech. It's a 5 yr plan (4 + Mfr yr), but does not provide a lamp. Total cost after a 10% discount came to $356.40 for my 65732. How do you get the 10% off? Ask for it.

Several of you have also bawled and squawled about this dang lamp thing and y'alls very misguided (IMO) perception that you've just got to have lamp coverage. Let me tell you something - ALL of the 8 EWs I've extensively checked out have a "Limit of Liability" clause in the fine print that includes cumulative claims. What's that mean?

What it means is the maximum combined total of all claims paid during the extended warranty contract, when added together, cannot exceed the total price that you paid for your new TV (minus tax). By "getting a deal" on your TV you may have saved some money, but in so doing you've also lowered the total amount that you can recover in the event of loss. Do you really want to file an EW claim for a piddly-assed $250 lamp if paying that claim is going to reduce the amount of remaining coverage? Each and every time you file an EW claim, you're reducing the amount of remaining coverage. With a $3000 TV you only have $3000 in EW coverage. Have a $1000 claim and now you're left with only $2000 in remaining coverage. Spend that coverage wisely folks, once gone, it's gone.

I didn't buy an EW today to avoid having to pay for a relatively inexpensive lamp. I bought it for the "Major Claims" protection it affords me if it happens to go T.U. I can well afford a $250 lamp; by comparison a (typical) $1000~$1500 repair or a $3000 total replacement claim is a whole other matter. Screw the lamp!

I also know a few of you have been bubbling over about the less expensive plan from MACK that gives you lamps. I did not want the 3-yr Mack plan for the simple reason it was a 3-yr plan (3 + Mfr yr = 4 total). Claims payment info obtained for one of the leading EW companies (Service Net) revealed that most of their total replacement claims occur in the 5th year, so I considered 5 years coverage as mandatory and any lesser plan was unacceptable. You must understand, I just had a total loss claim on my "old" 55819 and collected 100% of my original purchase price at 4 years and 9 months into a 5 year plan. I'm pretty much sold on the value of a 5-yr plan.

Once again, I don't need anyone to lecture me on the adviseability or inadviseability of having an EW. I know the odds and am comfortable with them.
post #238 of 2650
I post here what I posted on the 831 series thread to see what you guys think.


I just saw a 73732 at Tweeter, I played with the setting for about a half hour or so and I couldn't get the set to look sharp. It was playing an HDNet feed and continued to look a little blurry, definitely not as sharp as the 65731. I know it is 8" larger but it didn't have the same "look" overall as the smaller Mitsubishi's. I would love to see a 73831. My suspicion is that they have not much changed the 73" models from last year and that the lack of the 6 color wheel is playing a more important role than they are acknowledging.

Anyone compare the 73732 or 73831 to the smaller sets ?
post #239 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixdoctor View Post

I post here what I posted on the 831 series thread to see what you guys think.


I just saw a 73732 at Tweeter, I played with the setting for about a half hour or so and I couldn't get the set to look sharp. It was playing an HDNet feed and continued to look a little blurry, definitely not as sharp as the 65731. I know it is 8" larger but it didn't have the same "look" overall as the smaller Mitsubishi's. I would love to see a 73831. My suspicion is that they have not much changed the 73" models from last year and that the lack of the 6 color wheel is playing a more important role than they are acknowledging.

Anyone compare the 73732 or 73831 to the smaller sets ?

Was the HDNet feed a movie? Some of the recent HDNet stuff hasn't exactly been premier quality for "showing off" a set's attributes. Also how many sets were they driving with that same feed? Amplifiers add a noise figure. I'd want to see it with a DVD feed of something I was familiar with or a live sporting event.
post #240 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

After pouring over this for the last 3 weeks I wound up going (today) with the online offer from Warranty-by-net. After some initial frustrations with getting additional information and see an advance copy of their legal contract, I called them today and got everything I needed, to my complete satisfaction.

The Warranty By Net (run it all together with a com after) plan is the same Repair Master warranty that's also offered by some brick & mortar retailers. It's administered by Warrantech. It's a 5 yr plan (4 + Mfr yr), but does not provide a lamp. Total cost after a 10% discount came to $356.40 for my 65732. How do you get the 10% off? Ask for it.

Several of you have also bawled and squawled about this dang lamp thing and y'alls very misguided (IMO) perception that you've just got to have lamp coverage. Let me tell you something - ALL of the 8 EWs I've extensively checked out have a "Limit of Liability" clause in the fine print that includes cumulative claims. What's that mean?

What it means is the maximum combined total of all claims paid during the extended warranty contract, when added together, cannot exceed the total price that you paid for your new TV (minus tax). By "getting a deal" on your TV you may have saved some money, but in so doing you've also lowered the total amount that you can recover in the event of loss. Do you really want to file an EW claim for a piddly-assed $250 lamp if paying that claim is going to reduce the amount of remaining coverage? Each and every time you file an EW claim, you're reducing the amount of remaining coverage. With a $3000 TV you only have $3000 in EW coverage. Have a $1000 claim and now you're left with only $2000 in remaining coverage. Spend that coverage wisely folks, once gone, it's gone.

I didn't buy an EW today to avoid having to pay for a relatively inexpensive lamp. I bought it for the "Major Claims" protection it affords me if it happens to go T.U. I can well afford a $250 lamp; by comparison a (typical) $1000~$1500 repair or a $3000 total replacement claim is a whole other matter. Screw the lamp!

I also know a few of you have been bubbling over about the less expensive plan from MACK that gives you lamps. I did not want the 3-yr Mack plan for the simple reason it was a 3-yr plan (3 + Mfr yr = 4 total). Claims payment info obtained for one of the leading EW companies (Service Net) revealed that most of their total replacement claims occur in the 5th year, so I considered 5 years coverage as mandatory and any lesser plan was unacceptable. You must understand, I just had a total loss claim on my "old" 55819 and collected 100% of my original purchase price at 4 years and 9 months into a 5 year plan. I'm pretty much sold on the value of a 5-yr plan.

Once again, I don't need anyone to lecture me on the adviseability or inadviseability of having an EW. I know the odds and am comfortable with them.

Thanks for the great info Cap'n. I'll look into what you've got!

As far as the lamp issue goes, its a bit of a now-or-later issue (as I see it). My spin would be to use it for lamp replacment as needed and accept the diminished total reinbursment available for a replacement IF that ever happened. Example: what if the ONLY issue you had is a burnt bulb (in, lets say year 2), during your entire 3/4/5 year warrantee period. You get to 4 years, 11 months and 29 days and think, "Crap...I paid for that bulb outta pocket!" I figure if the TV goes T.U., I'll deal with it with whatever buffer the EW still affords but not at the expense of missed opportunities.
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