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2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732) - Page 81

post #2401 of 2650
Quote:
Next I got out my shop vac and used it (it has a leaf blower option) to blow air into both side vents in an attempt to get any buildup of dust out. I've done that before with no ill effects, so I didn't see any harm in doing it again.

Wrong, wrong, wrong. Just because you didn't have any ill effects, that doesn't mean you won't. Have you seen my 'Lens cleaning' thread?

1. A "shop vac" is the wrong tool, it belongs in a 'shop',
2. Blowing dust into and around a device (especially a TV), doesn't solve anything and only makes matters worse. Same goes when using a 'feather duster'. You are only moving dust from one place to another,
3. You extract dust with a canister vacuum using a small. clean brush to clean off interior surfaces, especially fan blades.

How many hours on the TV? (It's in the Service Menu)
post #2402 of 2650
Thanks. I appreciate your input. Since I don't get a picture, I won't be able to see how many hours are on the TV. I can't really even give a rough estimate of how many hours are on it. I'll search for your lens cleaning procedure but it didn't, to my eyes, look dirty. Would a dusty lens cause the TV to shut down the way I described?
post #2403 of 2650
Highly doubtful. Sounds as it is the 'lamp', though it could be the ballast.
post #2404 of 2650
Since this lamp is still under warranty, the cheapest route for now is to send it back for a free replacement. I'll only be out shipping costs and time. I also think I may dig into the set with your procedure for cleaning the lense videobruce. Those pics you showed of the haze on the lense was disturbing to me.

One more question: If I take the cover off the lamp assembly housing and power the TV on, will I be able to see any possible light activity, or does that cover create a safety interlock type of condition?
post #2405 of 2650
There is plenty of light leakage without removing anything. The safety interlock should prevent it from firing up anyway.
post #2406 of 2650
Videobruce, realistically, should an electronic novice like myself really attempt to clean the lens on my own? I saw your diagrams but it still seems very intimidating to me.

How important is cleaning the lens and how often should it be done? I have had my 65732 for almost 3 years and had no "noticeable" problems other than 1 bulb replacement. Should I "fix it if it ain't broke?" I appreciate all your very valuable information and advice. Thanks ,Troy
post #2407 of 2650
Judging by what you posted, I would say no. Any change is gradual. You won't notice it until it gets really bad.

As long as it doesn't look like this inside;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post18719409
post #2408 of 2650
I received and installed the replacement lamp last night and now all is well. Only problem... for the first hour that I had the TV on, the picture was absolutely horrible! Any criticism you can come up with that describes a bad picture, I had it. The center of the screen was too bright with the colors washed out, and around the outside of this 'circle' of washed out brightness, the picture was dark and out of focus. It didn't seem like I had a high def picture at all even though the settings on my FiOS set top box were correct and the TV's video settings were also correct. I tried making changes to the brightness and contrast but nothing made any difference as far as clarity was concerned. Eventually the picture seemed to right itself, and it wasn't just a matter of my eyes and brain adjusting. By the end of the night, that myopia effect was pretty much gone.

The other thing was, during that first hour the TV was giving off an odor. I could clearly smell it in the room and it was coming from the left side vent. I have to believe there was something on the lamp's lens, but it wasn't from the way I handled it. I had non-latex gloves on from the time I opened the box until the lamp was in place in the carriage, all screws tightened, and the assembly snapped back together. Makes me wonder what exactly you get when this "one free replacement" lamp is sent to you. Something tells me this one isn't going to last long either.

Anyway, thanks to all for your input. I'll see how things look tonite when I turn it on again. There may be an ISF cal in my TV's future.
post #2409 of 2650
Nice to see that someone else uses the term 'lamp' instead of bulb.
1. Was this a full replacement or just the lamp itself?
2. Where did you get the replacement from? If it was somewhere other than Mits, what brand lamp?

It sounds as it's not placed correctly. The smell should be just the lamp 'breaking in' (no pun intended).
post #2410 of 2650
Just the lamp itself was replaced. It came from DLP LampSource, which is where the first one came from that I purchased last July. Both times I've only replaced the lamp, which is an Osram. The name is printed right on the side of it. I don't recall having any problems with PQ at all when it was replaced the first time, and no odor like what I smelled last night.

I did have some problems seating it at first, but was able to get it in its proper position after removing 3 of the 4 mounting screws (I was trying to avoid taking them all the way out and then fishing them back in). I eyeballed it before I plugged it back into the TV just to be sure.
post #2411 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by rich3fan View Post

Just the lamp itself was replaced. It came from DLP LampSource, which is where the first one came from that I purchased last July. Both times I've only replaced the lamp, which is an Osram. The name is printed right on the side of it. I don't recall having any problems with PQ at all when it was replaced the first time, and no odor like what I smelled last night.

I did have some problems seating it at first, but was able to get it in its proper position after removing 3 of the 4 mounting screws (I was trying to avoid taking them all the way out and then fishing them back in). I eyeballed it before I plugged it back into the TV just to be sure.

Do you think maybe when you installed the lamp in the housing, that you could have left one of the wires' insulation touching the side of the lamp? Maybe a critter crawled in there and got roasted. I'd check it when it's cool, because if it's something like that it could drastically shorten the life of the lamp.
post #2412 of 2650
Well, I have to say now that after a couple of days and an A/V memory reset, the picture is just about back to where it was before death of a lamp occured. From the menu, I selected the A/V settings icon, and from within that menu I pressed enter for the reset. This time though, I left "Deep Field Imager" turned on, because when I looked at the screen in that setting's "Demo" mode, color depth and clarity on the right side of the screen was much better than on the left side, which is the Off setting. I suppose it is possible that what videobruce said about a coating on the lamp's lens is correct, but my take on that is the lamp isn't going to last long because of it. I'm still going to look into an ISF cal anyway. Thanks again all.

Hey GM2!
post #2413 of 2650
I had been struggling in vain for the past 2 months to "adjust away" the halo issue on my Mits 57732. I knew I should of checked AVS sooner.

I replaced a lamp (whole assembly) this last month and it has actually gotten worse. I also have a low-high-low fan noise now that was never present with the previous OE lamp. (New one is a Philips)

So my question is, I am under 1 more year of EW, should I just make a service call on these issues? If so, what has been the experience with successful resolution for folks on here?

MD
post #2414 of 2650
I'll answer your question with questions.

Do you have a service person, and if so, do you trust him to know his way around a DLP TV? If my lamp swap hadn't solved my problem, the next step would be a service call. Mine isn't under warranty anymore but yours is so why not not give him or her a call?

My current issue is that the whites are overpowering the blacks. For instance, if a person on the screen is wearing a white shirt with a dark suit jacket, the white bleeds into the lappels on the coat. I guess this is the Halo effect that people talk about here, but it's the first time I've had to deal with this annomaly. I'm hoping I can adjust this with contrast/brightness changes but ultimately I may be in the same boat as you. Good luck!

BTW: "HDTV Lackey". You and me both brother!
post #2415 of 2650
I don't have a regular guy I use. I actually have to arrange a visit through GE, think I will just go ahead and do that.

As for the symptoms you describe, that is exactly what I have been seeing and trying to adjust out. I have determined it is not possible.

If you are out of warranty, you could try the cleaning process that VideoBruce laid out. It looks very detailed but also complicated.

MD
post #2416 of 2650
Quote:


"adjust away" the halo issue

Nothing to "adjust", I assume you have seen the Lens Cleaning thread?
Quote:


also have a low-high-low fan noise now that was never present with the previous OE lamp.

Probably just coincidence, but it's probably a bad bearing on one of the fans.
Quote:


So my question is, I am under 1 more year of EW, should I just make a service call on these issues?

You paid for it. Go ahead, see what he says.
Quote:


I'm hoping I can adjust this with contrast/brightness changes but ultimately I may be in the same boat as you.

have you searched and read the lens Cleaning thread?
post #2417 of 2650
videobruce, he said he's looked at the cleaning thread here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by MillerDuck View Post

If you are out of warranty, you could try the cleaning process that VideoBruce laid out. It looks very detailed but also complicated.

I may be tackling that project sooner rather than later. It's really the only issue left that I have with my picture. Otherwise it's acceptable.
post #2418 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by MillerDuck View Post

I had been struggling in vain for the past 2 months to "adjust away" the halo issue on my Mits 57732. I knew I should of checked AVS sooner.

I replaced a lamp (whole assembly) this last month and it has actually gotten worse. I also have a low-high-low fan noise now that was never present with the previous OE lamp. (New one is a Philips)

So my question is, I am under 1 more year of EW, should I just make a service call on these issues? If so, what has been the experience with successful resolution for folks on here?

MD

Several years ago I had the same problem. The light engine had to be replaced.
post #2419 of 2650
Anyone contemplating a lamp change, take a look here;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1256432
post #2420 of 2650
Whoosh, I've been on this thread for years...and it is a God send! Here is my situation: I have a WD 57732 that I bought at Fry's Electronics for $2K (grrr...) back in early 2007. I've been on this thread for a while and have fixed my DVR input problem as well as the air flow. Around 4K hours I had the service tech come out and replace the entire lamp housing which was apparently the fix to the air flow issue. For the past 6 mos the TV has been quite dark, almost unwatchable during the day time with curtains closed. About 3 mos ago the TV blinked out showing the LAMP light flashing. I left the TV alone for a week before I tried to start it and it came back to life...but the halo effect and darkness issue were even worse. At one point around this time I saw a post on here with the code to key in order to access the lamp hours (if someone can repost this code it would be helpful) and at that time I was at about 8700 hrs on both the first and second lamp. I ordered a new lamp + housing and just installed it. I want to make sure to log the hours as we are probably in the 9000 hr range now and I want to track hours on this new bulb. The TV seems brighter in the first 20 minutes and I can't notice the halo effect near as much. I would also be interested to have someone that has tweaked the settings post what they are at with CONTRAST, COLOR, TINT, etc as this last bulb was never quite impressing me with its color and brightness performance. To note: It was a simple installation, I simply removed the old housing (whoosh...HOT), used my shop vac to SUCK (not BLOW) air out of the lamp compartment (it was pretty dusty) and all rear vents. With latex gloves I replaced the new housing into the now cleaned compartment. When I first tried to turn it on the lamp light was blinking, but after I firmly screwed in the casing's screws into the compartment it lit right up. Ok, now I'm at 30 minutes on this new bulb and it is noticeably brighter. Looks great, actually! So can someone help me out by reposting that hour code as well as some finely tweaked numbers for all VIDEO settings. Thanks in advance and viva 57732 thread!
post #2421 of 2650
Oh, one more thing: Should I keep this old lamp and housing so that next time I am looking to replace the bulb I can purchase only the bulb, not housing and follow online steps to open up the housing for bulb replacement? The housing itself is quite dusty and the vents have some visible discoloration. I watched a youtube video on replacing the bulb into the lamp housing but this saves what, $ 30? Might be worth purchasing the entire housing as installation is really that simple...your input would be greatly appreciated. I should also add that the only other problem I have had with this 57732 was a complete idiot move when early on (first 3 mos after purchase) I was cleaning the screen and used one of those air can cleaners to blow out dust from the bottom edge of the screen. Obviously this pressurized and freezing cold gas 'froze' the back side of the screen causing a screen anomaly which is visible to this day. I have to say that this new bulb seems to have minimized the screen damage much better than past bulbs. Is this because of the new lamp's brightness or just the 4 years age of the screen. The technician that came out in 2008 told me that this issue was not covered by warranty and that a new screen for the unit would cost me $ 800. At the time I bit my lip and chalked it up to stupidity.
post #2422 of 2650
To view the hours info, NetCommand s/w version, and some other info, press Menu, 2, 4, 7, 0. If I recall, the total hours cannot be reset, so just make a note of the current amount and go from there.
post #2423 of 2650
The thread that videobruce started and linked to is above your two posts. I don't see any reason why you shouldn't save the old lamp housing. I'm going to after I buy my next unit.
post #2424 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by socoolaz View Post

.......
Ok, now i'm at 30 minutes on this new bulb and it is noticeably brighter. Looks great, actually! So can someone help me out by reposting that hour code as well as some finely tweaked numbers for all video settings. Thanks in advance and viva 57732 thread!

  • sharpness 0
  • dfi off
  • contrast 63
  • color 25
  • color temp low
  • briteness 31
  • picture mode natural
  • tint 31

    perfect color
  • magenta 30
  • red 40
  • yellow 37
  • green 39
  • cyan 40
  • blue 31

    perfect tint
  • magenta 48
  • red 31
  • yellow 19
  • green 31
  • cyan 44
  • blue 31

    greyscale
  • ggl 968
  • grl 1024
  • gbl 853

Your mileage may vary...
post #2425 of 2650
Quote:
Should I keep this old lamp and housing so that next time I am looking to replace the bulb I can purchase only the bulb, not housing and follow online steps to open up the housing for bulb replacement?

Absolutely. Why throw it out??
post #2426 of 2650
Ok - to clarify, here are the real numbers. 3rd bulb replaced at 06885. Thanks for the info. Capt Preshoot : I set it up to your specs and it looks better, I want to bet input from the group. I typically had the COLOR TEMP at HIGH as the LOW seems to give a yellowish tint. I adjusted to CP's stats and it looks much better, but I still think that I liked COLOR TEMP on high. Also, what are your sharp edge and video noise settings? Don't know how to get to grayscale either. Why is it when you go to MENU -> AUDIO/VIDEO that it resets the color settings? Argh...! Thanks in advance to all contributors.
post #2427 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCoolAZ View Post

Ok - to clarify, here are the real numbers. 3rd bulb replaced at 06885. Thanks for the info. Capt Preshoot : I set it up to your specs and it looks better, I want to bet input from the group. I typically had the COLOR TEMP at HIGH as the LOW seems to give a yellowish tint. I adjusted to CP's stats and it looks much better, but I still think that I liked COLOR TEMP on high. Also, what are your sharp edge and video noise settings? Don't know how to get to grayscale either. Why is it when you go to MENU -> AUDIO/VIDEO that it resets the color settings? Argh...! Thanks in advance to all contributors.

That's because you are executing the first option, which is to reset video memory, when you press the OK (or is it Enter?) button from within the A/V menu. Instead just use the arrow buttons to get to the option you want.
post #2428 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCoolAZ View Post

Ok - to clarify, here are the real numbers. 3rd bulb replaced at 06885. Thanks for the info. Capt Preshoot : I set it up to your specs and it looks better, I want to bet input from the group. I typically had the COLOR TEMP at HIGH as the LOW seems to give a yellowish tint. I adjusted to CP's stats and it looks much better, but I still think that I liked COLOR TEMP on high. Also, what are your sharp edge and video noise settings? Don't know how to get to grayscale either. Why is it when you go to MENU -> AUDIO/VIDEO that it resets the color settings? Argh...! Thanks in advance to all contributors.

Color temp high is bad, bad, bad. The object is to get this to around 6500 degrees (kelvin). Hard to do without test equipment, but color temp low is usually close.

Please forget I said anything about ggl, grl and gbl numbers. These are located deep in the isf calibrations settings menu and I really don't recommend anyone noodling around in there unless you know wtf you're doing, because there are a zillion settings in there and they're pretty much all "tamper-not" settings unless you have some high-end video test equipment. Search the settings thread for this model to find out how to get there & remember you were warned.

Sharp Edge off
Video noise low or off

Sharp edge seems to only enhance video noise (make it more noticeable) when its on and the Video Noise adjustment doesn't seem to do much of anything. Deep Field Imager (in my opinion) when on destroys your shades of black. It destroys rather than enhances your contrast ratio - again my opinion.

Proper room lighting also has an effect on the "perceived" picture quality. Never watch TV in a totally darkened room. Viewing distance from the set is also a factor. On a 57" set you'll need to be somewhere between 5~7' from the set and squarely in-line with it to get that "immersed in the picture" sensation. Off-axis viewing with the MITS DLP sets is arguably some of the best available, but still you want to be straight in front and eye-level with the screen.

We're on year 3 with our WD65732 and are now on our 3rd lamp, with a new (tested) spare ready to go in a spare housing. Ours runs constantantly, typically 16~17 hrs a day, on from 4:30 AM until around 9 PM every day. Never any service issues except lamps.
post #2429 of 2650
Greetings All! I am writing to help an elderlywoman with her Mit. WD-73732. According to her when the tv is turned on they hear the start up, get a green light, get audio but no picture. After 1-2minutes the tv shuts off. They called a repairman who said the TV would be too expensive to repair. As fas as i know there has been no firmware upgrades done to this tv or a lamp change. I went back a few pages on this thread to see some similar problems but not to sure what to do. Any suggestions would be appreciated. The tv has a built date of November 2006. Thanks!
post #2430 of 2650
Oh yes, they cannot find the manual.
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