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2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732) - Page 82

post #2431 of 2650
No surprise, but that really won't help. It can be had after a on line search.
1. How many hours?
2. My guess it might be the ballast or the lamp heat sensor (which can be fixed by bypassing the connector and soldering the leads (or at last resetting the connector).
3. What did this repair jockey say other than supposed not worth it cost?
post #2432 of 2650
The tv sits in front of a rear picture window with curtins and that the light wasn't helping the set. That's what he told them. They do not have the remote (lost it). They are using a comcast remote. I have no idea on the hours. Is there a way to find out without the remote?
post #2433 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aquastar View Post

The tv sits in front of a rear picture window with curtins and that the light wasn't helping the set. That's what he told them. They do not have the remote (lost it). They are using a comcast remote. I have no idea on the hours. Is there a way to find out without the remote?

Not to my knowledge. I think someone needs to conduct a diligent search for it. It's black, about 1-1/2 inches wide and roughly 8 inches long.. This model is now approaching 4 hrs old, so if you find the remote it will likely need batteries.

With the remote you press MENU followed by 2-4-7-0. Hours will appear in the bottom left. Press EXIT to go back.
post #2434 of 2650
Quote:


The tv sits in front of a rear picture window with curtins and that the light wasn't helping the set. That's what he told them.

Gotta love these 'circuit board jockeys' (formerly called 'tube jockeys').
1. The "light" isn't/wasn't the problem thou it didn't help. (shouldn't of put it by a window).
2. They lost the manual and the remote??
3. The MSO's STB remote is of no use. You need the original remote or a decent 'universal programming' remote that has most of the functions of the original.
4. Just who did they call? Are they an authorized Mits shop, or some dime a dozen, repair everything shop??

When you access the Service Menu, be absolutely sure 'enter' or the right navigation buttons are NOT pressed when the 1st entry is highlighted (Initialize), or the set with 'dump' all user settings (which probably won't make much difference since thy are using a STB and the set probably never saw the tuners used.
post #2435 of 2650
*sign* Well I thank you Videobruce and Cap, but they informed me late last night that they are simply going to get a new television. I tried to convince them that it probably woun't be that bad to repair but they just want to dump the tv. At least they want me to help them find a new one. Anybody want to buy a 4yr. old WD-73732 (by the way I saw the tv this morning. The front panel has scratches on it. Don't know if you can get them out.).
post #2436 of 2650
Oh yeah, no remote and no manual.
post #2437 of 2650
Transport it to Buffalo and I will take it off your hands.
They are making a real mistake (other than paying a MSO to rent their STB). Large screen LCD's really suck. Why don't you take it?
post #2438 of 2650
Hmmmm.......i could. let's see: upstairs: Pioneer Elite Pro 920HD. Living room: Pioneer KURO 5020. I suppose i could keep the Mitsu in the basement. How much should i offer them?
post #2439 of 2650
Thread Starter 
It depends on how it's been taken care of over it's relatively short life and what's actually wrong with it. Sounds like it's maybe had a hard life by a careless owner. I'm sure you could find a remote. When I bought our 65732 I also saw a 73732 in the store and frankly it didn't do much for me. When watching in 4:3 mode the presentation is simply awful because of the hourglass effect. It's noticeable too on the 65, but tolerable. On the 73 it's really bad. It's also a huge energy pig, both from the standpoint of power consumption as well as heat generated, as anyone who owns one can attest. Tho otherwise in perfect condition, I'm considering getting rid of my 65732 as soon as the extended warranty expires and downsizing to a 55" LED flat panel. When we originally bought our Mits (Sept 06) we put it in the living room and only watched occasionally, evenings mostly. Since moving, it's now in the family room and since retirement we have the thing on constantly all day long and thus the electric co. loves us. Total cost of ownership is turning out to be just too much for an all-day/everyday TV (energy + a new lamp every 12~18 months). An otherwise gorgeous TV. I even had it ISF-Calibrated by Accucal and keep a spare lamp on hand.

.
post #2440 of 2650
Thanks Cap. I finally convinced them to keep the set, but they are still going to replace it with a Panasonic plasma. The Mits. will head to their basement for now. Thanks again!
post #2441 of 2650
Thread Starter 
It took a full 2-1/2 weeks after talking to Mits and convincing them my problem with trying to use a multistream CableCard was set-related and to finally receive the upgrade firmware. Why they make this so hard to get is beyond me. Nope, you can't download it! You have to call, give your model & serial # and then have a "known problem" that the latest firmware addresses before they will give it to you. They then verify the problem and call you back a week later to tell you they're sending the chip. Geeze....Just because you might want new firmware doesn't mean you'll get it. The latest version is 8.04 (most sets came with 8.00 in 2006 and 2007). If you want to get it, tell them you're trying to use a Scientific Atlanta multistream CableCard and you're getting an error message 161-050 on screen. (Release 8.04 fixes that problem). It probably addresses other things too, but I don't know what those bugs are. (maybe someone here knows and will tell us!!)

Even still it's going to take 2~3 weeks to get it. Mine arrived today, strapped to the belly of a mule (UPS Ground). What you receive is a 4-gig Compact Flash (CF) chip which contains only 18.9 megs of data. Why they used a 4-gig chip for less than 20 megs of data is beyond me.

Anyway, suspecting they might have a self-destruct routine in it, I copied the chip they sent me and burned the data onto a 256-meg CF chip of my own, then used my chip to perform the upgrade. Sure enough, at the end of the upgrade, the CF chip is wiped clean, ostensibly to prevent you from sharing the data with anyone else, God forbid, (unless you were wise enough to copy it first)

The upgrade process is a very specific procedure, but not difficult. You turn off the TV and unplug it - which you must do. Then insert the CF chip in the reader on the front of the TV. Now plug the set back in but don't turn it on. Just sit, wait and watch. Your green power LED will be flashing like mad then after a minute or so will finally stop. In another minute or so the TV will turn on all by itself and you'll see a message come on the screen a few seconds later informing you that the software upgrade has completed. Unplug the power cord, wait 10 seconds and plug it back in.

Finally turn the set off and wait for the green power LED to stop flashing, then remove the CF chip and pull the plug one final time (10 secs) then reconnect, Done. You may have to rescan any OTA channels or CableCard channels you had, but any "settings" are retained (thankfully).

Mits fully expects you to return the CF chip, as they send an envelope and UPS return tag in the package. I've heard of people getting billed for $36 for not returning the chip, so returning it as requested is probably in your best interest. Since they make the process easy and free, there's really no excuse for not returning it. There's no data on the chip anymore, it's been erased.

The upgrade solved my problem with the CableCard.

In addition to the upgrade firmware, the chip contains some potentially useful diag. screens (color bars, greyscale, vertical/horizontal alignment test patterns, etc) so copying first before use nets you these nifty files (16 of 'em in fact)

.
post #2442 of 2650
Quote:


It took a full 2-1/2 weeks after talking to Mits and convincing them my problem with trying to use a multistream CableCard was set-related and to finally receive the upgrade firmware.

You should of asked me. I have had both firmware upgrades for the 732 series and I have posted what each addressed including the CC issue. I also posted the procedure and the fact the files are deleted after the set is flashed.
Quote:


When watching in 4:3 mode the presentation is simply awful because of the hourglass effect.

I was never really bother by that. What I don't understand the fact in the "Narrow' mode, it crops (cuts off) a good portion of the width as I reported almost 5 years ago, but no one seems to notice.
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...d.php?t=593005
Quote:


It's also a huge energy pig, both from the standpoint of power consumption as well as heat generated, as anyone who owns one can attest.

In a 'standby' state I agree if it is in 'Fast Power On' mode, in a 'on' state, compared to Flat Panels (especially Plasmas and non edge lit LED driven LCD's), it's relatively 'green'.
Quote:


downsizing to a 55" LED flat panel.

I would think twice about doing that.
1. First place it's a LED driven LCD. Don't fall for Samsungs scam by calling it a "LED TV".
2. That will spin you meter more than the Mits,
3. You will loose many inputs especially RF. new sets have very few inputs compared to sets a few years old,
4. Edge lit sets suffer from hotspotting/flashlight effect,
5. Well know black level issues,
6. Limited viewing angles.

New isn't always better.
post #2443 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

You should of asked me. I have had both firmware upgrades for the 732 series and I have posted what each addressed including the CC issue. I also posted the procedure and the fact the files are deleted after the set is flashed.I was never really bother by that. What I don't understand the fact in the "Narrow' mode, it crops (cuts off) a good portion of the width as I reported almost 5 years ago, but no one seems to notice.
http://archive2.avsforum.com/avs-vb/...d.php?t=593005In a 'standby' state I agree if it is in 'Fast Power On' mode, in a 'on' state, compared to Flat Panels (especially Plasmas and non edge lit LED driven LCD's), it's relatively 'green'. I would think twice about doing that.
1. First place it's a LED driven LCD. Don't fall for Samsungs scam by calling it a "LED TV".
2. That will spin you meter more than the Mits,
3. You will loose many inputs especially RF. new sets have very few inputs compared to sets a few years old,
4. Edge lit sets suffer from hotspotting/flashlight effect,
5. Well know black level issues,
6. Limited viewing angles.

New isn't always better.

Can you provide a link to the document about the mitsubishi firmware upgrades (versions, fixes, etc)? Thanks.
post #2444 of 2650
I thought you would ask that. I did a search yesterday in Mits threads, but I only found reference to the firmware last Spring and again last Summer (both '09) regrading TVGOS.

Doing another search in the whole RPTV sub forum turned up this conversation starting back in Jan. 09;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=2120

I'm sure I wrote up something more that what I found here, but I'll be damned if I can find it.
post #2445 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

I thought you would ask that. I did a search yesterday in Mits threads, but I only found reference to the firmware last Spring and again last Summer (both '09) regrading TVGOS.

Doing another search in the whole RPTV sub forum turned up this conversation starting back in Jan. 09;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=2120

I'm sure I wrote up something more that what I found here, but I'll be damned if I can find it.

I would have liked to have seen it.

Supposedly, from the (now 2) Mitsu authorized service centers I've spoken to, Mits holds all information about known performance issues (the secret KPI list) very close to their vest, not even sharing specifics with their own service centers. They won't even tell them what specific issues the updates address. The only option is to call them, describe your symptoms and then wait, often as long as a week, for someone to get back to you. Then if your problem matches a KPI, they will authorize you to receive the firmware and ship it to you. At least when they send out a firmware patch, it is said to be the latest then available. The firmware patch script on the chip even includes a command to erase the chip to try to prevent you from sharing or applying it to another set. Of course if you know this beforehand (as I did) you make a backup copy. I can understand this position, because the world is full of complete idiots. It only takes a moment for some mental midget to destroy his TV by applying a patch that applies to a different model.

The chip contains its own OS (VXWorks), the patch files, several nifty diagnostics/alignment screens (jpg files) and a script to auto-execute it all. It boots up into Wind River System's VXWorks, a small, proprietary OS that's been around for a zillion years and is mostly used in stand-alone microprocessor-based commercial products. It's the core OS currently used in MITEL VOIP telephone systems and previously in their older TDM phone systems. Manufacturers like it because the hackers ignore it. The command structure looks a little like BSD, enough in fact that it likely traces its roots to BSD.

In the Mits, after the OS boots, an imbedded script in vers 8.04 executes a total of 82 separate commands, the last of which erases the CF chip.
Interestingly, most of the script commands are commented.

Somewhere I read Intel recently bought VXWorks ( year or 2 ago)

Bottom line, Mits firmware 8.04 fixes the problem I was having with the Multistream CableCard being improperly recognized. Equally interesting, Comcast tech support was right, they told me I likely needed a firmware upgrade for my TV. Simply amazing.

.
post #2446 of 2650
Quote:


It only takes a moment for some mental midget to destroy his TV by applying a patch that applies to a different model.

If it was written properly, it shouldn't happen.
Quote:


Mits firmware 8.04 fixes the problem I was having with the Multistream CableCard being improperly recognized. Equally interesting, Comcast tech support was right, they told me I likely needed a firmware upgrade for my TV. Simply amazing.

It's been a known problem for Moto cards and also Comcsat with other devices.

These companies are so paranoid about just about anything.
post #2447 of 2650
I have a WD-57732 that has been giving my PQ issues. All of the repair people, including Mits, that I've called are trying to tell me that I need a new light engine. I tore it down last night and I did not have any build-up like many here. Thanks for the instructions, btw!

Anyway, I'm getting a very strange outline on certain types of color situations. I actually figured it was a light engine/cleaning issue by what I was reading but like I said, that does not appear to be the issue. I have had no warning lights and the TV works well for about 5 mins until I get this "pixelation" issue. The TV was purchased at the beginning of 2007 and I'd like to get another year or two out of it. I've contacted Vigil White and left a message however, I'd like to make sure what could be causing this before I fork out for a bunch of replacement parts.

Here's a link to the thread in which videobruce was trying to sort through the issue, but he can't really pinpoint the problem either.

When I first turn on the TV it has a nice picture...



Then it slowly degrades to this..



Any help would be appreciated. If anyone has spare parts or is trying to part out the TV, I might be interested.

BTW...I found where folks had supposedly filed a class action against Mits for some of these issues...

forums.cnet.com/5208-7596_102-0.html?threadID=257865
post #2448 of 2650
Quick UPDATE:

Mits (Vigil White ) has agreed to have a technician look at the TV for free as no one seems to know what is causing my issue. It could be a number of things according to the engineers and they appear to very interested in an official diagnostic.

Contrary to popular opinion, the communication with these guys has been VERY positive. They have responded within the time frames that were promised; and, to be honest I'm surprised that they have gone to the lengths they have in order to resolve my issue, considering it is outside of the extended warranty period. Granted, a TV with only 2500 hrs (regardless of it being only 3 1/2 years old) should not cost more to fix than what it was worth new...IMO.

I will update this thread as we proceed. Thanks to everyone who has provided information. As consumers, we have an added responsibility these days to be informed. Not only to our wallets but to the environment. The "throw-away" mentality that is so prevalent was created by industry at the hands of consumers. Which means we also have the power to reverse it.

Cheers~!
post #2449 of 2650
I have a problem with my WD65732 and was wondering if this has come up before. I tried searching this thread but couldn't find any similar issues.

When I hit the power button I can hear the light engine start to spin up but then it spins down and then up and down and the TV shuts off. I did notice a faint clicking sound (sounds like an electrical spark) coming from the back of the TV when the light engine starts spinning up.

I just get a steady green light until the TV shuts off. No other indicator lights blink or light up.

I replaced the bulb about 1 1/2 years ago and had the light engine replaced under warranty about 3 years ago.

I have tried the reset button on the front panel and unplugging the TV for a minute or two to no avail.

Edit: The red light has come one once now but only that one time.
post #2450 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philistine View Post

I have a problem with my WD65732 and was wondering if this has come up before. I tried searching this thread but couldn't find any similar issues.

When I hit the power button I can hear the light engine start to spin up but then it spins down and then up and down and the TV shuts off. I did notice a faint clicking sound (sounds like an electrical spark) coming from the back of the TV when the light engine starts spinning up.

I just get a steady green light until the TV shuts off. No other indicator lights blink or light up.

I replaced the bulb about 1 1/2 years ago and had the light engine replaced under warranty about 3 years ago.

I have tried the reset button on the front panel and unplugging the TV for a minute or two to no avail.

Edit: The red light has come one once now but only that one time.

How much use has the set had since the last lamp change? Absent any other indications, that's the first thing I'd try. Also, while you have the lamp holder assembly out, remove the little fine mesh screen. It tends to become clogged with lint, etc. I've had much improved lamp life since removing it.
post #2451 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

How much use has the set had since the last lamp change? Absent any other indications, that's the first thing I'd try. Also, while you have the lamp holder assembly out, remove the little fine mesh screen. It tends to become clogged with lint, etc. I've had much improved lamp life since removing it.

Its had a fair amount of use, more than usual, over the last year as I was on a medical LOA for about 6 months and basically confined to the sofa. I'll get a new lamp but it'll have to wait till after next week as I'm going out of town. I'll take a look at the screen too. Thanks.

I just tried it again and this time the lamp indicator did come on.
post #2452 of 2650
Quote:


I did notice a faint clicking sound (sounds like an electrical spark) coming from the back of the TV when the light engine starts spinning up.

That's the ballast trying to 'lite' the lamp. It will do this three times and quit.
Sounds as it's a bad ballast assuming the lamp is good.
post #2453 of 2650
Cap'n,
Would it be possible to get a copy of the chips contents? I have a 73732, which I A: can't get TVGOS info for, and B: I have a SA M-card that came out of the TiVo I just took back and was planning on using on the TV. I'm assuming, the firmware covers the DLPs of the same model year, but since it appears you've been looking around in the scripts you probably have a solid answer for that. Thanks in advance

Dan
post #2454 of 2650
Are you looking for the firmware patches??
post #2455 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Are you looking for the firmware patches??

Yes, w/o the pain of going through Mits support that was described above.
post #2456 of 2650
PM me w/ your e-mail address.
post #2457 of 2650
I have a 65732, about 3 years old. Recently, the Harmony remote that I use to power on the TV with doesn't work. I can press the On/Off button on the front of the TV, that works just fine. I can also use the remote that came with the TV, that also works just fine also to turn on the TV.

The TV also now seems to take "longer" to power on. I seem to remember when I would power up previously, the green light would come on solid and then a picture would appear.

Now, the green light is flashing for about 30 seconds, stops, and then the green light comes back on solid, and a picture appears.

We've lost power here recently in my neighborhood. These two issues seemed to start about the same time.

Anyone have any ideas?

Love the TV. Still on original lamp!
post #2458 of 2650
The lamp may be on the way out or the power outage may have reset your power on setting. Press menu on the remote and under "Setup" on the right you should see "Low Power" and "Fast Power On." Make sure "Fast Power On" is selected.
post #2459 of 2650
What does it mean if the menu item is grayed out? I cannot change this setting. ???
post #2460 of 2650
Philistine, thanks a million for your answer! That was it. I went in the "Setup" Menu and set the TV back to "Fast Power On". It has been reset during the power outage.

Back in business!
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