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2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732) - Page 83

post #2461 of 2650
"Fast Power On" is a power hog! Shut it off.
It will take 50 seconds longer to boot, but why have something sucking up 25 watts more current 24/7 just to power up faster? These sets use 5 watts in standby as opposed to around 30-35 watts in this Fast Power On State.

Unless,
you are using TVGOS and/or a AVHDD, where it has to be in the Fast Power On State.
post #2462 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by j0oftheworld View Post

First off, LOVE the site. It's been so helpful.. but I'm at a crossroads here and I had to post to get input from you guys!

I've got the 57732.
Purchased black Friday (Nov 24, 2006) Was SO excited for 1080p finally..

Had the "air flow blocked" issue very soon after. Played around w. the TV's position and cleaned the lamp housing/grills etc for about a month. Finally called Mitts and they had a guy come out and he adjusted the temp sensor or connector whatever had been the issue. The TV then worked great but that bulb only lasted me 2000hrs. I installed an ebay bulb for ~$100.

3 months ago I had to modify my light housing as the micro-fine vent was caked w. dust so I used my smallest drill bit and made that recommended mod.

2 weeks ago.. TV just shuts off. No lamp warning so I was confused on this one. Being busy and distracted w. work I decide to have the same company come out and help me out. As soon as he gets here and I describe the no lamp warnings but it was making a high pitched oscillating noise he said.. "uh oh, not good"
Sure enough after 2 seconds (which cost me $75) he says "your color wheel is hunting, will need a full light engine on this model TV"
The quote from them is $800 parts, $200 labor. There's one on ebay that's 3yrs old for $350.

Seems there's a few other "common" issues I haven't had yet as well..
So, is this TV worth it to fix?
Is the light assembly easy to install?
Would you trust a used one?

Here's her in her glory.. dual screen



Thanks for any help/advice!

I've got the color wheel out and the motor is shot.. and squeaky!
Anyone know where I can get a replacement color wheel??
Thank you!!
post #2463 of 2650
Quote:


So, is this TV worth it to fix?
Is the light assembly easy to install?
Would you trust a used one?

Yes,
Somewhat, with some electronics experience,
Maybe, depending on price.

Have you looked at my 'Lamp Replacement" and "No More Halos" threads?
post #2464 of 2650
Well.. I've got the color wheel out and now I just need to find one.
The picture was great before the color wheel started "hunting" and now with it's removal and experience w. motors it's def shot.
I've done a part # search w. no avail, so I'm wondering if you can maybe order this type of component from Mitt's or maybe their supplier?
The only result I get from google is one that sold on ebay for $40 a while back! That would be nice to find someone who parts these broken $2k paper weights out!!
post #2465 of 2650
Unlike Sammy, Mits doesn't sell the color wheel separately. At least according to their parts list. You have to order the whole LE:
Quote:
938P059060 OPTICAL-ENGINE 57" xHD5
Take a look at my "No More Halos" thread.

 

Parts_List.pdf 441.279296875k . file
post #2466 of 2650
Videobruce hope you can help me since you are the 65732 guru. Turned my tv on tonight normally, watched it a couple of hours and went to turn it off and it would not respond to the Mits. remote or the DTV remote. DTV still was working on DTV so I know both sets of batteries didn't die at the same time! I tried system reset 2 different times, nothing. TV "does" work just fine using manual controls on the tv itself. Any idea what the problem could be?? Thanks, Troy
post #2467 of 2650
1. Try another remote on the TV that was programmed for the TV,
2. If that doesn't work, you can try a full system reset (you will loose all of your settings),
3. The only other possibility, assuming nothing else has changed around the TV (lighting, other equipment, outside interference from ??), is the IR board or related circuitry.

Unless someone else has any other ideas?
post #2468 of 2650
I just replaced the lamp and after a month it went out. I got the replacement lamp today, installed it and the TV still wont turn on. The TV tries to power up, I can hear the ballast ticking and it makes a few whirring noises but then it shuts down. Afterwards it won't power on if I hit the power button on the front but it will after I press the system reset button. And the same thing happens again.

Could I have gotten a second bad lamp or could there be another problem I should look into since the first lamp went bad after only a month? Is there a way to test the replacement lamp to see if it is good?

I have a WD-65732.
post #2469 of 2650
Probably the ballast. Common problem.
post #2470 of 2650
Are they hard to replace? Where can I get a new one?
post #2471 of 2650
Never done it. Probably not if you have electronics experience.
Direct from Mits.
post #2472 of 2650
I've had my WD 73732 since Feb 2007.

I was wondering if this model can display 3D?

Still love this TV, even up against the new 82"
post #2473 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by nickaz2007 View Post

I've had my WD 73732 since Feb 2007.

I was wondering if this model can display 3D?

Still love this TV, even up against the new 82"

Sorry, it is not 3D capable

.
post #2474 of 2650
I have the wd-57732 and I cleaned the light engine, picture is great now, however, I now can't see the whole test pattern on the service menu. I was wondering if anybody had any ideas. In the service manual all it shows is adjustments for rotation and keystone. It's looks like, especially on the top and bottom, I am missing some of the lines. Like projecting too big an image on too little of a screen. Thanks for the help. I would also like to say I am new to this site (love it) and I have had the tv since new in 2006 or 2007 (love it also). Other that lamp replacement this is the first project I have undertaken and I was worried I mucked something up.
post #2475 of 2650
I've got the back of my TV (WD-65732) apart and I have the cover off the ballast. I have the service manual and got a code 66 from the TV. There is a testing procedure for the ballast.



I tested it without the bulb inserted like instructed and I did see the spark gap arc. Which means the bulb is bad according to the logic diagram. But this bulb is brand new and the last bulb only lasted a month before it "died" (according to the lamp light on the front of the TV).

Here's a video of the ballast as the TV tries to power up. (Its dark but you can see the ballast sparking.)



Is there a way for me to test the new bulb I have to be sure its good or bad? I'd rather not buy a new ballast if the bulb is truly bad since the ballast appears to be good.
post #2476 of 2650
Quote:


I now can't see the whole test pattern on the service menu.

Can you post a screen shot (after the required numbers of posts)?
2. I assume the LE was slid in all the way?
3. Welcome to the forums.

Philistine; Where did you get the lamp from? Try a return explaining the situation.
post #2477 of 2650
I was able to get them to exchange the lamp one more time. Since I'm getting a new lamp for free I decided to go ahead and buy a new ballast and replace it.
post #2478 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philistine View Post

I was able to get them to exchange the lamp one more time. Since I'm getting a new lamp for free I decided to go ahead and buy a new ballast and replace it.

Don't overlook the possibility of a bad socket connector or loose wire.

.
post #2479 of 2650
I did try checking the wires connecting the ballast and lamp. I even went as far as to reinstall the old ballast and lamp after taking them out just to see if there was a poor connection. Still didn't work. I should be getting the new lamp and ballast today hopefully.
post #2480 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Before you do, have you disabled TVGOS and if so, was there any change (does it still have the issue)?I don't know if it will make a difference, but it can't (or shouldn't) hurt.

I still have the 'TV resetting itself' problem. I have tried turning off TVGOS, push-button reset, and the "initialize" reset. Turning off the TV and turning it back still results in the message "Setup Reminder - TV Guide has not been set up... etc.". I could try removing the cable, but I'm not particularly hopeful. It's as if the TV has lost the ability the save settings. Any further thoughts? I just installed the new Sony Google TV Blue-Ray player so I'm spending more time playing with the TV than usual (yes, I am a masochist).
Thanks,
Gerry
post #2481 of 2650
Philistine; has that thermal sensor been checked or changed (covered under Mits warranty since it is a known defect)?

pottingshed; I don't know where that quote came from since it wasn't I wasn't responding to your 1st post 5 months ago. I assuming you are not using TVGOS? If so are you in "Low Power" mode? If not switch, no need to waste 28 watts 24/7 just so the set powers up 50 seconds sooner.
post #2482 of 2650
Yeah, I've had the thermal sensor fixed under warranty and the light engine too, both about three years ago. Got the new lamp, just waiting on the new ballast.
post #2483 of 2650
Crap. The ballast is out of stock from the parts distributer I ordered from and they canceled my order without telling me. It was listed as in-stock when I ordered it.

It's too late to call Mits today so I'll have to try again Monday.
post #2484 of 2650
Did you order it directly from Mits? If not, try them direct.
post #2485 of 2650
I ordered from UED.net as the ballast (new) was only $89. I'll see what Mits wants Monday.
post #2486 of 2650
So Mits will not sell me the ballast because I'm a consumer and not an authorized service center. I tried the two local Mits authorized service centers and they will not sell me the ballast either because they are not resellers. I just want the part! Why is this so hard?
post #2487 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philistine View Post

So Mits will not sell me the ballast because I'm a consumer and not an authorized service center. I tried the two local Mits authorized service centers and they will not sell me the ballast either because they are not resellers. I just want the part! Why is this so hard?

Look at the old ballast, take down all the part numbers you see on it, aside from the Mits number. Search the internet with those numbers.

It's quite possible that Mits doesn't make their own ballasts. You can often get hits from several different 'manufacturers' by doing this, and end up with a handful of places to buy your board from.
post #2488 of 2650
Philistine; I know they will sell some "parts" to a consumer, but since I have an account, it was never a issue. I always ask for 'both' costs, dealer & consumer (retail). There appears to be a 1/3+ markup between the two.
post #2489 of 2650
New 73" 3D Mit. Are they any good??
post #2490 of 2650
Best to ask that in the current model years thread, but it might be a moot point asking owners if their purchase is "any good".
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