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2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732) - Page 84

post #2491 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by troyhash View Post

New 73" 3D Mit. Are they any good??

WE SHOULD KNOW THIS HOW????
post #2492 of 2650
Finally got the TV fixed! I ended up buying a ballast from eBay that the buyer listed as being new, but upon opening the package it was immediately obvious it was not new. The plastic sleeve was opened and the ballast itself was even more dusty than the one I pulled from my TV. I installed it anyways and the TV powered right up.

I will be on the lookout for a new ballast anyways just so I can have a back up if this one goes out in the future. They are really hard to get a hold of. Mits does still carry them but they will not sell it to you.
post #2493 of 2650
Last January (1/13/2010) I bought a lamp for my WD-Y65. The old lamp was over 2 years old so I thought I would replace it before it dies and keep it as a spare. I did not install it until March. On Dec 1 the new lamp died. The old lamp still works fine. I bought the new lamp as a cartridge from LaptopsForLess.com. When I asked for a replacement they told me that they warrantee the lamps for 6 months. I thought a $113 would have a warrantee for at least a year. Is 6 months reasonable? Has anyone replaced their lamps and it did not last a year? I estimate I used it for no more than 1000 hours. I don't have kids so the TV is off most of the day on average.
Thanks
Diagdad
post #2494 of 2650
The above is exactly what I have been saying (though in your case it wouldn't of mattered):
When you buy a "spare" lamp, install it immediately, saving the original as a spare. The warranty period starts when you order the product. If it sits in the box for 6 months, the clock is still running.

Warranty periods for lamps seem to range from 6 months to a year.

Also record your lamp hours on the original.
post #2495 of 2650
Set: wd-65732
Manufactured: Sept 2006
Bought: Dec 2006

Problem: The set shut down last night and gives a blinking red led. After unplugging, the set shuts down about a second after the screen lights up, then gives the flashing red led again.

According to an online service manual, the blinking red means "fan stop". Using "input" + "menu" gives error code 36, which is "lamp ballast fan failed".

I took out the ballast fan and hooked the red and black up to the red and black on a computer motherboard fan pin. The ballast fan spins up, when hooked to a motherboard. But I don't know if the third wire is a rpm, thermal, or some other sensor.

Question: Is this simply a (going) bad fan, or does error 36 typically point to some other problem?
post #2496 of 2650
vrat;
1. Welcome to the forums,
2. Thanks for the detailed info about your set. Far more than most others give. (Nice not to pry it out of someone foe a change),
3. Problem would be excessive temperature.
4. Check for voltage on that connector. Without tracing down the driver circuit for that fan, if the fan does work (most use 12vdc), then whatever is driving that is the next place to look.
post #2497 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by vrat View Post
Set: wd-65732
Question: Is this simply a (going) bad fan, or does error 36 typically point to some other problem?
The TV is now "magically" running...

The ballast fan sits atop the ballast, and exhausts through the bulb.
The leads to the fan show 11.38 as soon as the tv powers up, but the fan doesn't always start as soon as the set starts.

I think i'm going to order a replacement fan.

Thanks
post #2498 of 2650
HI guys. My 65732 horizontal and vertical needs to be adjusted. I was using a calibration disc and it shows these arrows at the top and sides of the screen. They are actually off the screen (top worse then sides). Is this something I can adjust myself in one of the Service menus or am I going to have to call someone?
post #2499 of 2650
Menu + 2 + 4 + 5 + 7
post #2500 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Spiderr View Post

Menu + 2 + 4 + 5 + 7

Thanks Spiderr. I will try that.
post #2501 of 2650
Problem with my 73732. When watching directv on hdmi input 1 the tv will randomly switch to the memory card reader input. Even watching bluray on hdmi 2 it will randomly switch to the memory card reader input. Sometimes this happens 10 times in an hour. Sometimes happens every couple of hours. Yes it's very annoying. I have the latest software version 008.04. Mitsubishi customer support is useless. Any suggestions?
LL
LL
post #2502 of 2650
Hi all - great forum here. I've done a lot of reading, but can't quite find the help I'm looking for. I was the lucky recepient of a free WD-57732, but of course it doesn't work, and I'm hoping someone might be able to offer some troubleshooting tips for me.

When I plug the TV in, I hear a click, and the Timer light will flash for close to 60 secs. After that, when I push the power button, I get nothing - no noise, no lights, nothing. Input/Menu doesn't bring up any error codes like I've seen on other Mits either. Reset just repeats the initialization step. I noticed if I leave the lamp cover switch disengaged, the TV will displace an amber Lamp light after initiallizing.

It doesn't sound like any sequence to fire the lamp is occurring (but I'm not sure what the check sequence is). My guess is I've got an issue with the power supply board, but that's just a guess. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can test it? The board and capacitors all look good, but I'm not sure where to start with it.

Any tips are greatly appreciated, and I will respond with feedback/results.

Also, I'm told the bulb isn't very old, but I don't have another one to test it yet (I just have a square 132W from my Samsung, that I'm not sure would work or not). I'd like to avoid dropping too much money for a gameroom tv for the kids.
post #2503 of 2650
It could also be the lamp ballast.

It takes 60 seconds to 'boot up' if the set is in low power mode. In the 'fast power on' mode, it would be normal for that light to blink for the set to enter the 'standby mode' which is the fast power on. This is also the power hog mode using 30 watts 24/7 just sitting there. It needs to be that way for the TVGOS to work. If you aren't using that feature, the low power. mode is the friendly choice.

Have you read through this?;
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1310024

The first thing I would do is a full reset from the front panel if the set will allow this. That's in the owners manual. The 2nd is get the Service Manual.
post #2504 of 2650
Thanks videobruce for the all the links (I have something to do at work now ). I'm not sure about how to get the tv into the "low power" option, but I've got the service manual now, and I'll start heading down that path when I get back home tonight.

Thank you sir!
post #2505 of 2650
Genius!!!! I read through the links videobruce provided and I've got my tv working. Looks like I had a stuck tac switch as well. I unplugged LE1 and got it to work fine powering on with the remote. Now i just have to decide which tv i want downstairs - this wd57732 or my samsung hl56a650.

Think you videobruce and hammerdwn. I'm pumped!
post #2506 of 2650
Looks like you passed repair 101. Unlike many here that are too lazy and/or timid to even try to troubleshoot, you dove in. The satisfaction is worth more than the fix.

For the record, what/where is this stuck "tac switch"??
post #2507 of 2650
You're right about the satisfaction of the fix. I made the wife hi-five me.

The stuck tac switch (robbed that term from one of the post) is the CONT3 pwb on the front of the tv that has the power button and the 3 LED lights. I was able to disconnect it by pulling the LE1 cable from the back of the tv. This allowed me to use the remote to power it up. I found the board used on ebay for $5 ($50 new on another sit) and hopefully that gets everything resolved. Right now it works great with the remote.

Again - thank you!
post #2508 of 2650
I want to put this up for any owners of this TV who stumble upon this thread. You owe it to yourself to do the lens cleaning procedure outlined by videobruce. I did it a few weeks ago on my 57732 and I still can not get over how much the picture improved. It is astonishing.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1148792
post #2509 of 2650
Hi all I have a new Panny 3D Blu Ray and it has the following HDMI color settings:

HDMI Connection -> HDMI Color Mode (there are 4 options):

YCbCr (4:4:4)
YCbCr (4:2:2)
RGB (Standard)
RGB (Enhanced)

Which one should I use for my 65732? Want to maximize the picture on Blu Ray's until I buy a new 3D TV.
post #2510 of 2650
Ive had my wd-73732 since Nov 06 and never had a problem until a week ago when the screen went blank and the red lamp light came on. I ordered a new lamp complete with the housing on Ebay and the new lamp should be here any day. My questions are based on the desciption of the problem, should the new lamp fix the problem? and secondly how can you tell how many hours the previous lamp lasted for? is there a meter somewhere? and what is the light engine? where is it? and could my problem be related to it? I pulled the old lamp out today and apart from running for 4 years and five months shows no sign of shattering just old. Any assistance will be greatly appreciatted.
post #2511 of 2650
madmacks; Welcome to the forums, BUT;

1. Have you read the "sticky" on TV repair first? You questions have been asked dozens of times. Especially note threads on lamp replacement & lens cleaning.
2. The Service menu will tell you the lamp hours. It is a good idea to keep track of it on some regular basis (yearly for example).
3. e-Bay isn't the preferred place to go for lamp replacement. Mits is selling replacements directly for $100 for most models.
post #2512 of 2650
Hi guys. I have someone interested in purchasing my 65732. I have not had much luck in finding average used prices. Not sure what the value of this TV is used. Any ideas?
post #2513 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarenG View Post
Hi guys. I have someone interested in purchasing my 65732. I have not had much luck in finding average used prices. Not sure what the value of this TV is used. Any ideas?
Check out the new DLPs at Best Buy.
post #2514 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by agthad View Post

I want to put this up for any owners of this TV who stumble upon this thread. You owe it to yourself to do the lens cleaning procedure outlined by videobruce. I did it a few weeks ago on my 57732 and I still can not get over how much the picture improved. It is astonishing.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1148792


I fully agree. I've been doing the cleaning every 10-12 months and I feel it has saved me from buying a new TV several times. Thanks again for the procedure on the cleaning videobruce.
post #2515 of 2650
I got the lamp and installed it but when I turned the TV on the green power light flashed for a few minutes and now the lamp light is on again!!!! so it's the same as before. There is nothing coming on even at the back of the TV! the only sign of life is the flashing lights, I removed the old lamp and replaced it very carefully and was hoping that would have been the end of it.........if someone can help I would be very grateful. What is the light engine? I bought my WD-73732 in Nov 2006 and probably will not be eligible for the extended warranty from Mitsubishi on the light engine replacement. It has never given me any problems till two weeks ago and is in imaculate condition.....like the day I got it.
post #2516 of 2650
Hi Videobruce. I went to the Mitsubishi website but don't see a new lamp for $100 but I do see one for $249. Anyway I installed the new lamp which fit nice and snug just like the old one, the new screws would not hold it in place so I replaced them with the old ones however for whatever reason I could not get them to tighten either! I replaced the protective cover on the back and plugged the TV back in, after the green light stopped flashing I pressed the reset button and a noise came from the TV speakers for a short time similar to the sound when you get when testing a surround sound system and there was an electrical clicking sound at the back and then the TV shut off! any idea's or information as to what could be wrong? even though I bought the TV back in Nov 2006 do I still fall under the light recall? Thanks.
post #2517 of 2650
Surely sounds as a bad ballast to me. Common problem.
post #2518 of 2650
Is the ballast expensive to repair?
post #2519 of 2650
Is the ballast expensive to replace? also is an easy job? Thanks for your help by the way.
post #2520 of 2650
Replace, not repair. Off hand I beleive they run around $150.
Have you checked the 'sticky' thread on repair?
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