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2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732) - Page 87

post #2581 of 2650
I'm happy to report that after 5 years, 11,818 hours, one lamp replacement and one lens cleaning later, my Mits 57732 is still looking as good as it did the day it was delivered.
post #2582 of 2650
Guess you won't be on the list for the class action suit?
post #2583 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Guess you won't be on the list for the class action suit?

Is there one?
post #2584 of 2650
Yes, I posted a separate thread.
It's about those bad caps.
post #2585 of 2650
Gentlemen,
My apologies if this isn't the appropriate thread for this.
I have a WD-Y65 with the green blinking light of death. I've replaced electrolytics with upgrades on all 3 boards in the stack, with no change. By upgrades, I mean the stock Jamecon and Nichicon HD series caps were replaced with longer life Nichicon HE series caps, voltage ratings raised sufficiently to exceed the OEM ripple current specs. This leads me to believe I have a bad main logic/processing board on the bottom of the stack. I'm not going to pursue it further, wondering if anyone is interested in parts, as I believe the rest of the unit, power supply, light engine, etc are fully functional. Located in southern Indiana. Thank you.
post #2586 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Guess you won't be on the list for the class action suit?

I think what may have happened, as frequently happens with other products, sometime after initial introduction and broad acceptance, in subsequent production runs the manufacturer began squeezing the bill of materials. As a result I think later buyers may have purchased MITs TVs which had undergone some design changes ultimately resulting in these premature lamp failures that some have reported.

Quite the contrary with mine. My first lamp went out at approx 3500 hours and my 2nd lasted slightly longer. Both died from a melted mantel, having literally fried themselves from the intense heat. On my third lamp I noticed that the lamp vendor had replaced the filter screen with one having much larger holes in it, resulting in much improved air flow across the lamp and it never did burn out. I finally replaced it only because it was getting a little dark, though by that time it had 8177 hours on it, the mantel shows no signs of overheating and the lamp is still usable.

I received the notice of Class Action, but my WD65732 falls well outside the eligible qualifying purchase dates. (I bought mine in the Fall of 2006)

I have had zero service issues with it other than routine lamp replacement at what could only be classified as normal intervals. The only complaint I have with it is that it runs hotter than the dickens, producing A LOT of heat. Other than that it's been like the Energizer Bunny, just keeps going and going. Ours stays on (continuously) anywhere from 14 to 16 hours a day, every day for the past 5½ years. Ours is turned on around 5AM daily and stays on all day until typically 9 PM. Perhaps the lack of on/off/on/off cycles has contributed to its longevity. Whatever, we've been very pleased with our MITS.

If/When it ever dies we plan on replacing it with a more energy-efficient flat screen, but will try to stay with something about the same size (65").

So far no complaints....
post #2587 of 2650
Quote:


As a result I think later buyers may have purchased MITs TVs which had undergone some design changes ultimately resulting in these premature lamp failures that some have reported.

Manufactures can also 'source' the same materials from elsewhere which could increase or decrease the failure rate.

I always like to look at circuit boards and see all the components that are not there. Empty holes, traces running between mot installed IC's etc. Many times, a board can used for a step up model that has additional features/functions requiring those additional components. But, many times the manufacture has found a way not to used the original design, funding 'short cuts', eliminating the need for those parts.
post #2588 of 2650
hifibourbon;
1. Try an ad in your local Craigslist, sell it "for parts",
2. Try an ad on eBay for local pickup for the same thing,
3. Call some of your local service shops to see if they are interested,
3. Just place it out to the curb.
post #2589 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Manufactures can also 'source' the same materials from elsewhere which could increase or decrease the failure rate.

I always like to look at circuit boards and see all the components that are not there. Empty holes, traces running between mot installed IC's etc. Many times, a board can used for a step up model that has additional features/functions requiring those additional components. But, many times the manufacture has found a way not to used the original design, funding 'short cuts', eliminating the need for those parts.

As one of the beta testers for both the USRobotics top-of-the-line Courier "business class" modem as well as their consumer-grade "Sportster" I am reminded of the glowing review Consumer Reports gave "design rev 3" of the Sportster only to have replaced it with a substantially cheapened "rev 4" by the time the CR review hit the newstands. Rev 4 as some will recall was the piece of crap plagued by "Spiral Death Syndrome" where the modem constantly renegotiated the link speed lower and lower, ultimately settling in at 14,400k bps, less than half the advertised speed.

By comparison, the previous model (on which CR based their report) was a pretty decent little modem.

.
post #2590 of 2650
For the 2nd time in about 3 weeks, I turned my tv on and I had sound but no picture. I do have the little menu icons, channels, etc. come up on just the tv, but no picture from directv or cable, I have both. I checked all settings, connections, etc. with no luck. I hit tv's system reset and problem was fixed both times "at least for now" or until the next time.

Has anyone experienced this? Could it be the light engine going out? I am using hdmi for dtv & coax cable for cable. I can't believe that the connections are the problem. My warranty goes out in August "5 year extended warranty from GE via HHGregg".

Advice?? Thanks for any & all help! Troy
post #2591 of 2650
Are you using the internal tuner? If not, do so and report back.
You state "cable", is that using a STB?
post #2592 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by videobruce View Post

Are you using the internal tuner? If not, do so and report back.
You state "cable", is that using a STB?

not sure what you mean, sorry. Cable is running via coax into tv. I get sound on that too, just no picture. When I use the tv remote to change its onn change or change input, etc. that comes up as always. I just don't get the actual video/tv signal. Sound yes, picture no. Thanks! Troy
post #2593 of 2650
Sorry, I was in a hurry at lunch with the last message. I meant to say, you can see the tv's own menus, channel #s when you change the tv channels, etc. After thinking about it, I wasn't listening for the light engine/wheel to come on when I turned it on but thinking back, I don't think I heard it go off either when I turned it off trying to get a picture. Is it possible that the light engine didn't kick on when powered up? Would that explain the sound but no picture? I am just guessing here, videobruce & capt'n are the experts. I appreciate any advice. Thanks, Troy
post #2594 of 2650
Quote:


I meant to say, you can see the tv's own menus, channel #s when you change the tv channels, etc.

Ok, that's what I wanted to determine. The LE works, question is, is it the input section or something else.

How about other inputs, starting with the other RF input? Do you have anything else connected to the TV? DVD player, STB, DRR etc.?
post #2595 of 2650
Yes, when I select input, all other inputs are present and can be selected. When I select one of them same thing, sound but no picture. Thanks!
post #2596 of 2650
Does anyone know where I might be able to find a replacement color wheel for a WD-65732? I was having issues with the color going out and the diagnosis is a bad color wheel. I've been told that the part is no longer available from Mitusbishi.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
post #2597 of 2650
Have you looked thru the 'sticky' at the top of the page?
post #2598 of 2650
If by "sticky" you mean the Vendor Banners, Year i tried those to no avail. If there is something that i missed since i'm a newby, please let me know. I've been told that mitsu no longer makes the wheel for this model. I have tried to find aused one, but i can't even find the blasted part number. Thanks.....
post #2599 of 2650
"Stickies" are threads at the top of most every type forum of special interest to the readers. It's called "Sticky Threads".
post #2600 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by TnAzVol View Post

Does anyone know where I might be able to find a replacement color wheel for a WD-65732? I was having issues with the color going out and the diagnosis is a bad color wheel. I've been told that the part is no longer available from Mitusbishi.

Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Who made the diagnosis?

The color wheel is part of the light engine, and you have to replace the entire light engine as a unit. Part number 938P059070.
post #2601 of 2650
I'm sure I have read here members replacing just the color wheel.
post #2602 of 2650
I've read where it was done on a Samsung, but never on a Mits, and I believe it had been cannibalized from another "parts" TV. I don't read every post in the forums, so it's possible I may have missed one about a Mits replacement.

Nonetheless, it is not listed as a replaceable part in the Service Manual for the WD-65732.
post #2603 of 2650
Finally had the time "and the nerve" to take on cleaning my tv. It took about 2 1/2 hours, but thanks to Videobruce's "outstanding" directions, it wasn't that difficult. I did have someone to help me, having I second pair of eyes and hands is a big help!
I did not see as much film on the lens as some photos, but there was some. But there is NO doubt about the improvement of the picture. My wife noticed it and she couldn't care less about stuff like that! Great to have my tv "new" again! Thanks to all that have commented about the procedure and especially to MR. Videobruce, you are the MAN! Troy
post #2604 of 2650
I didn't have the original idea/solution, but I took the time to post a proper set of pictures (that you could actually see) and explanation to make it easy to follow.
post #2605 of 2650
Question/concern. WD65732 after being on for several hours, suddenly powered itself off. Green light flashed very quickly and everything shut down including fan. It powered right back up and I have had no problem since. What could this be and is it a long term concern? My extended warranty runs out the 23rd of this month! Thanks, Troy
post #2606 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by troyhash View Post

Question/concern. WD65732 after being on for several hours, suddenly powered itself off. Green light flashed very quickly and everything shut down including fan. It powered right back up and I have had no problem since. What could this be and is it a long term concern? My extended warranty runs out the 23rd of this month! Thanks, Troy
These things have computers inside them and if they get a bad signal or a voltage transient they'll shut down to protect themselves. It's happened a few times on my TV as well. Just to be safe, call and get a service ticket started while it's still free. They probably won't find anything wrong, but if it gets worse, it'll be on record as happening before the warranty was up.
post #2607 of 2650
Thread Starter 
How many of these are still up & running?
My WD-65732 is still alive & well, approaching 6 years of ownership and so far the only thing I've had to do is replace an occasional lamp (and update the firmware to fix a Comcast CableCard issue). Waiting for it to die so I can justify something new. Wife wants one of the new Sammys smile.gif
Edited by Cap'n Preshoot - 9/10/12 at 6:42pm
post #2608 of 2650
Oct 2006 Purchased new from Walt's TV in Phoenix. On 3rd bulb. No service calls, but I am pretty sure I am seeing the blooming effect and it is pretty pronounced. Funny how it can look spectacular in some scenes, but then just look like Ka-Ka when the colors are just right. Trying to figure out which thread to use for the cleaning since there are a couple. Hopefully the repair won't kill the TV as it has been sitting safely on it's current throne since purchased. I did purchase a 60 Pani 3D Plasma 600MHZ ST (got it in a special Amazon deal for $1100 and could not pass it up!) last year that is absolutely spellbounding. I followed the tweak setting and fell in love.
post #2609 of 2650
Thread Starter 
I too am on my 3rd lamp. I'd have to pull the set and look at the back to tell you when I last changed it, but we're presently approaching 22,000 total hours & no indications of any issues. I did a mod a couple yrs ago on the lamp module, completely removing the little filter screen (totally) and have not had a single lamp "failure" since though I can tell this one is aging because it's not as bright as it was when first changed. I also have a 4" muffin fan sitting next to the area of the cabinet (under left side of the base) where the lamp heat exhaust is located pulling the hot air away. I've been tempted to do the light engine teardown & lens cleaning, but since I have no problems with halos there's really no reason to. That plus I'd hear bitching from my wife about not being able to watch TV while it was scattered out on the dining room table. My chief complaint through all these years of ownership is that it just runs so blazing hot. Even with the fan on it, the discharge air coming out of it averages 112 degrees. (measured w/Taylor 9842 digital temp probe) I can't begin to imagine how hot it would be -without- the little fan.

I'm at the point where I'd really like to get something new, but really have not a single clue what to get. However, I don't want a 3D set because watching 3D gives me a splitting headache - (3D affects some people that way) of course now it's getting harder to find sets that aren't 3D capable, but I guess having a 3D set doesn't necessarily force you to watch in 3D. I'd like to stay at 65" screen size +/- 5 inches but have something that also isn't so dang bulky.
post #2610 of 2650
You guys should post in the "how old is your DLP" thread. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1414925/the-how-old-is-your-dlp-tv-thread
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