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2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732) - Page 88

post #2611 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by farmerfamily View Post

Oct 2006 Purchased new from Walt's TV in Phoenix. On 3rd bulb. No service calls, but I am pretty sure I am seeing the blooming effect and it is pretty pronounced. Funny how it can look spectacular in some scenes, but then just look like Ka-Ka when the colors are just right. Trying to figure out which thread to use for the cleaning since there are a couple. Hopefully the repair won't kill the TV as it has been sitting safely on it's current throne since purchased. I did purchase a 60 Pani 3D Plasma 600MHZ ST (got it in a special Amazon deal for $1100 and could not pass it up!) last year that is absolutely spellbounding. I followed the tweak setting and fell in love.

My son cleaned his WD-65732 using directions from this thread. http://www.avsforum.com/t/1148792/mitsubishi-2007-and-possibility-06-08-lens-cleaning-procedure-no-more-halos

Looks just like brand new.
post #2612 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

I too am on my 3rd lamp. I'd have to pull the set and look at the back to tell you when I last changed it, but we're presently approaching 22,000 total hours & no indications of any issues. I did a mod a couple yrs ago on the lamp module, completely removing the little filter screen (totally) and have not had a single lamp "failure" since though I can tell this one is aging because it's not as bright as it was when first changed. I also have a 4" muffin fan sitting next to the area of the cabinet (under left side of the base) where the lamp heat exhaust is located pulling the hot air away. I've been tempted to do the light engine teardown & lens cleaning, but since I have no problems with halos there's really no reason to. That plus I'd hear bitching from my wife about not being able to watch TV while it was scattered out on the dining room table. My chief complaint through all these years of ownership is that it just runs so blazing hot. Even with the fan on it, the discharge air coming out of it averages 112 degrees. (measured w/Taylor 9842 digital temp probe) I can't begin to imagine how hot it would be -without- the little fan.
I'm at the point where I'd really like to get something new, but really have not a single clue what to get. However, I don't want a 3D set because watching 3D gives me a splitting headache - (3D affects some people that way) of course now it's getting harder to find sets that aren't 3D capable, but I guess having a 3D set doesn't necessarily force you to watch in 3D. I'd like to stay at 65" screen size +/- 5 inches but have something that also isn't so dang bulky.

Just because the TV is a 3D TV does not mean you need to use the 3D features. The 3D TVs are usually the top of the line models are also the best 2D TVs in the manufacturer's line.
post #2613 of 2650
I just did the halo cleaning process. Unbeliveable gunk in there!

Sincerest thanks to videobruce for posting the procedure.

My wife wanted to buy an new TV, but we tried this and she couldn't be happier.
post #2614 of 2650
BTW, regarding the gunk that causes the halo effect:

What is it? Will it come back?

Thanks again!!!!!
post #2615 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by jpletikapich View Post

BTW, regarding the gunk that causes the halo effect:

What is it? Will it come back?

Thanks again!!!!!

I am of the opinion that outgassing from the plastic parts exposed to the intense ultraviolet light from the lamp causes it.
post #2616 of 2650
Any ideas what could be causing this? Sound is good, but I cant get any menus or picture. Wd-65732.

IMAG0031.jpg
Edited by turbotim - 11/15/12 at 10:37am
post #2617 of 2650
For all the color wheel problems. Heres the fix for the color problems on the mitsubishi tvs. Its a sensor on the side of the color wheel that goes bad.

Heres the link on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/280972808636?redirect=mobile

Email me at bradc at rtmc dot net for more info or questions.
post #2618 of 2650
Hey there! Just thought I'd report that my WD-65732 that I bought in April of 2007 just had the first lamp go bad on Monday night. I tried turning on the set and I would hear it starting up, or trying to a couple times then it would just shut off. I tried again and same thing followed by the lamp light coming on. I ordered a light from dlplampsource.com Tuesday and received it today. I swapped out the lamp (with enclosure) and its back up and running. I did have to re-calibrate my settings again.
Also I tried to run the service code MENU 2 4 7 0 to see how many hours the TV had on it and the number on the lower left says 00000. I tried again an hour later and still same thing. So maybe that just doesn't work on my set. I was really curious how many hours I got. My parents bought a similar 57" a few months after me and went through 4 bulbs before they got rid of it about 6 months ago.
Anyone have an idea of another way to check the hours on the set?
Also I do notice a slight smell with the new lamp. Kinda like something getting a bit hot, perhaps there is some oils burning off the surfaces of the new enclosure. I looked over the surface of the new lamp and it looked very clean.
post #2619 of 2650
After six years of excellent and problem free service, my original lamp in the WD65732 went out. I had noticed a dimming in overall brightness a few months back and being proactive had ordered a spare lamp to have on hand. (PureGlare.com, $40 with housing). I replaced the faulty lamp with my spare but noticed a slight “cooked” electronics odor from the unit. The picture was once again brought back to its full awesomeness. I assumed it was just a “new lamp” smell as it was breaking in. After two hours of viewing the lamp blew with the ominous loud pop. PureGlare honored the lamp warranty and their replacement arrived in two days. Again I replaced the lamp and had the same slight burnt odor from the unit. It seemed to diminish with in a day or so but not altogether. After about eight hours of use over three days’ time on the new lamp it too blew out.
I live in a very rural area and getting the unit into trusted and qualified hands is questionable. I do have a technical background and am more than capable of disassembling and parts swapping. It’s the diagnostic skills I lack. After browsing the posts here (and this forum is excellent!) I’m thinking that the ballast will need to be replaced along with the new lamp, I see a few “lamp first, ballast second” replies in the postings. But what is the success rate for performing both for a “frequent” lamp blowing issue? The odor I mentioned does remind me of a bad fluorescent light ballast.
Thanks in advance for any assistance on this one. I’ll continue to browse these pages of postings.
Dan
post #2620 of 2650
OK, had the time today to open up the unit. Pulled the ballast board and power supply leaving the LE in place. Other than solder joints that look like they need to be reflowed, no visual signs of anything to suspect. No cap swelling or leakage, no burnt componets. No residual "cooked" oder. I'll resolder those joints that look funky or to have rings around leads. What are the odds I just had a bad run of lamps? The original and two replacements within a weeks time. Go with a replacement ballast anyway?
post #2621 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by DTSSR View Post

OK, had the time today to open up the unit. Pulled the ballast board and power supply leaving the LE in place. Other than solder joints that look like they need to be reflowed, no visual signs of anything to suspect. No cap swelling or leakage, no burnt componets. No residual "cooked" oder. I'll resolder those joints that look funky or to have rings around leads. What are the odds I just had a bad run of lamps? The original and two replacements within a weeks time. Go with a replacement ballast anyway?

For $40 I suspect you got Chinese knockoff lamps, and they can be unreliable out of the box, or have short lives. In any case you won't get more than six months from one with luck.

Who was the manufacturer of the two bad lamps?

Here's a couple of lamp sellers that some of us at AVS have had luck with recently:

Dynamic Lamps on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/shops/dynamiclamps

Nio on eBay: http://stores.ebay.com/neilampsandelectronics

If you get a genuine Philips lamp it should cost $80-90, but it will be reliable out of the box and have a lifetime like that of the original. There's probably nothing wrong with your ballast. If you install the lamp in the enclosure yourself make sure you first remove any plastic stickers from the lamp, and that the rubber wires aren't touching the glass when it's all assembled.
post #2622 of 2650
Hello Everyone,

I have a WD-Y57 and I tried using a cablecard but I get a "Host Certificate Invalid" message and error 161-50. I have been searching the forums and saw that updating the firmware may fix this. Does anyone have the firmware or a link to it as it is not on the mitsubishi-tv website? I called Mitsu and they are going to send a flash drive (at some time in the future) but I wanted to know if any of you have seen this problem and if the firmware is indeed the source of the problem. Sorry if this is a repost...
post #2623 of 2650
I would be very curious too as to what a new firmware update would provide "and how to do it". Troy
post #2624 of 2650
I'll let you know how it turns out once I get the files from Mits. I've been looking all over the interwebs to find it with no luck. They keep it closely guarded apparently.
post #2625 of 2650
Must have been the cheap lamps I sourced. The new Phillips lamp is going on three weeks now and the "ballast" oder did not reoccur. Lesson learned, a good deal is not always what it seems. The other two lamps did not have mfg markings on them that I could determine. Thanks for the advice, we're glad we came across this forum and learned very much.
post #2626 of 2650
WD-65732
LAMP FAN FAILURE
The lamp fan has failed. After removing the fan and applying 12v to it, sometimes it would start and run fine other times it would just sit there and not move. It is a Sanyo-Denki part number 9AH0912M4D04. Apparently this part was manufactured solely for Mits and Sanyo can not give me any specs on the fan. I found somewhere on the net that someone said Sanyo part # 9AH0912M4D05 would work. So I bought fan 9AH0912M4D05 installed it and the tv runs for about 30 seconds max and then I am getting error code 42 (Lamp Fan Failed). I had installed the new fan to suck the air from the lamp and blow it out the side of the tv, is this correct or did I install it backwards. Or is the problem with the fan model number that I am using.

UPDATE: I have just realized that I was shipped the wrong fan model number, this fan draws .21Amps as oppossed to the original which draws .08A. I'll get the correct part number coming and I will follow up. In the mean time which direction is the air suppossed to flow?
post #2627 of 2650
There is a problem with the connections. Mine gave that indicator after four years but before the extended warranty ran out. The repairman soldered the wire, fixed. Its mentioned somewhere early oin this thread as a problem with these tv's.
post #2628 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacbeth View Post

There is a problem with the connections. Mine gave that indicator after four years but before the extended warranty ran out. The repairman soldered the wire, fixed. Its mentioned somewhere early oin this thread as a problem with these tv's.

Are you referring to the fan connector or the known problemed thermal sensor connector. My thermal sensor connector was removed and the wires soldered together within months after buying the tv. As far as the fan goes, I removed it from the tv and used a 12v power supply to test the fan. Since I was using voltage probes (paper clips) to make the connection at the connector, I doubt the fan connector is faulty.
post #2629 of 2650
Yes that is what I was referring to. Sorry, I can't help.
post #2630 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Royelt View Post

I'll let you know how it turns out once I get the files from Mits. I've been looking all over the interwebs to find it with no luck. They keep it closely guarded apparently.

Just wondering if you got a firmware update from Mits. yet? Thanks, Troy
post #2631 of 2650
Hi,

I have a '06 65732, with one lamp replacement last year (TV is not used 24/7). I also cleaned the lens to fix the halo effect around the same time. In the last few days I've started seeing blue flashes or streaks (as across Bruce Greenwood's mouth in the photo below. It doesn't sound like a light engine failure, and it's not the halo effect. Does anyone have any suggestions? I searched the thread but didn't see any reference to blue streaks or flashes.

TIA,
Gerry

post #2632 of 2650
Good Day folks;

I have a dlp history question, and this is the "oldest" Mits dlp owners thread I can find.

Here goes: Once upon a time I was in the calibration business, at least partially. I have not calibrated a set in awhile, but still have all my stuff. Neighbor asked if I would calibrate his Mits and I said sure, gratis. (well, maybe a couple of brewskis) So over I went and could not get into the service menu for anything. I know the dlps don't have too many codes out there, I tried everything I could find. So,,,, I did some color work with perfect color, which is accessed via regular menu and set some other stuff up, but could not deal with his geometry at all. (pretty close, but not perfect). Went home to check the set out via internet, and I CAN'T FIND IT!! The owners manual states "Mitsubishi WD-53327". No hits anyplace. So I'm asking around a few forums, does anybody recall anything about this set? Yes, it's a dlp, I changed his lamp assembly out for him. Besides which the manual says it is.

I'm starting to think it was a special model for Fry's, which is where he purchased it. I have all the Mits service manuals up through chasis V26, no luck, most of them use the same service codes, and this thing does not respond to it. I played moon dial for awhile via nn57, 59, and 70,,, nada. Maybe this is the first dlp Mits ever made and it does not have a service menu??? Can anyone from this knowledged group provide some insight? Thanks a bunch for your thoughts.

p
post #2633 of 2650
Are you sure the model number is not WD-52327? I don't think Mitsubishi made a 53 inch model.
post #2634 of 2650
post #2635 of 2650
Hi everyone,

Just wanted to follow up with a quick update. I was able to fix the CableCard issue by upgrading to 8.03 from 8.01 with the help of Videobruce (THX!). Interestingly though, when I got the 8.04 update directly from Mitsu about 2 weeks later, that update seemed to bring back my TVGOS for about 2 days lol. Then it slowly diminished. First the TVGOS was working fine, then it stopped and just says 'it's updating blah blah 24hrs blah blah". But I could still see the name of the tv show and network I was watching when I tuned to a station. Now I just see the station (i.e. the tv says CNN, next to the channel number when I first change the station). Seems like soon that will go away too...
post #2636 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Royelt View Post

Hi everyone,

Just wanted to follow up with a quick update. I was able to fix the CableCard issue by upgrading to 8.03 from 8.01 with the help of Videobruce (THX!). Interestingly though, when I got the 8.04 update directly from Mitsu about 2 weeks later, that update seemed to bring back my TVGOS for about 2 days lol. Then it slowly diminished. First the TVGOS was working fine, then it stopped and just says 'it's updating blah blah 24hrs blah blah". But I could still see the name of the tv show and network I was watching when I tuned to a station. Now I just see the station (i.e. the tv says CNN, next to the channel number when I first change the station). Seems like soon that will go away too...

How did you get the firmware update? How did upload it to the tv? Is the update worth the trouble "does it improve/fix anything?" I have had mine for going on 6 years and love it! Troy
post #2637 of 2650
While my 65732 is still performing well, it developed a weird annoyance some time ago. At some point, I had tried to set up TVGOS, mostly for OTA. It never worked well, so I turned it off. Despite that, when I first turn the TV on, I get a message to set up TVGOS, and the set will change inputs to cable via RF. I normally use a DVR via HDMI, and I also have OTA via RF.

This behavior is annoying because I have to constantly exit the reminder screen, and change the input. I have made sure that TVGOS is OFF, and I just tried disabling the RF INPUTS thinking that might solve the issue. While the TV did stay on the HDMI input, I still get the nag screen for TVGOS.

I'd prefer not to try a total reset, because the set is calibrated to my preferences. Has anyone had a similar issue, and found a fix?
post #2638 of 2650
I realize this is old but you might try entering 00000 as a zip code, TV Guide On Screen is no longer available anyway. This is not a Mitsubishi create issue, TV Guide On Screen signals over the broadcast channel are not longer supplied by the TV Guide owner company and there is nothing Mitsubishi can do about the fact that TV Guide stop supporting the TV Guide product.
post #2639 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by GEP View Post

I realize this is old but you might try entering 00000 as a zip code, TV Guide On Screen is no longer available anyway. This is not a Mitsubishi create issue, TV Guide On Screen signals over the broadcast channel are not longer supplied by the TV Guide owner company and there is nothing Mitsubishi can do about the fact that TV Guide stop supporting the TV Guide product.

I'll give the 00000 thing a try. Are other owners having the same issue?
post #2640 of 2650
I hope you guys can help me.

I have a wd-65732 Mit that I have had for quite a while now. The bulb in it is maybe 3 years old but it doesn't have much time on the bulb. I do not use this set a lot but I do like to watch sports on it and recently I noticed that when I watch cable or dvd the picture is dark and I cannot really get it bright. I am not getting any bulb warnings or heating problems so I thought it might be dirty as I know some of the lens get dirty. I pulled the the light engine and cleaned the color wheel and the first lens between the bulb and the wheel. I put everything back together and now the picture is still dark and it has kind of a flickering horizontal lines on the picture when I watch dvd or cable.

So I went into some of the internal adjustment screens and all of the color test screens look perfect, the alignment screen is super bright so now I am thinking there maybe something going on that has nothing to do with the light engine since it only seems to have problems when I am trying to plug in something external to the TV like the cable box or a dvd player. I did switch cables so I know it is not a cable. I am running high end Monster component cable and I was running through my AV receiver but since having these problems I hooked directly into the TV and still the same problems.

Any ideas what might be causing this?
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