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2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732) - Page 4

post #91 of 2650
Is anyone having any problems with xx732? Is SD PQ any different? Response time? Does it take a long time to switch channels or go through the menu like does on the previous models? It takes about a 1+ sec to change SD channels and 2+ seconds to HD channels. I'm thinking of returning my 62627 for 65732 this weekend. The 62627 has way too many problems.
post #92 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

How are you powering off, low power mode or quickstart mode? I ask because I had a similar problem when I tested using low-power mode


Based on your reccomendation, I switched back to Quickstart. Hopefully, the benefits will out wiegh the costs

So I powered off last night in Quickstart.
post #93 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

In addition to the Capn's question...by any chance have you been unplugging inputs that you've saved?

If you unplug an input from the set, the set erases all information for that input and you have to start all over (even if the input device hasn't changed).

I believe this to be a fairly annoying little quirk and that the TV should ask you if the device has changed when it senses an input has been unplugged/replugged. Much like how the TV asks you if the bulb's been changed.

Well I unplugged the standard Video cable and hooked up the Component cables last night. I will try it tonight and report back my findings.

Thx!
post #94 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by RommelB View Post

Is anyone having any problems with xx732? Is SD PQ any different? Response time? Does it take a long time to switch channels or go through the menu like does on the previous models? It takes about a 1+ sec to change SD channels and 2+ seconds to HD channels. I'm thinking of returning my 62627 for 65732 this weekend. The 62627 has way too many problems.

Its takes longer. Probably about the times you mention. Menu is not slow at all. The TV guide menu is very very slow though. almost unusable
post #95 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

Well, #1, keep in mind that, generally speaking, you don't run any video through your Receiver any more. In the non HD days, people got used to running video into their receiver and using it to do the video switching.

You'll need a receiver with at least a digital input per component, but make sure the types match. If you have (3) TOS and (1) D-Coax -IN-, but you have (2) D-Coax devices, then you'll have to buy extra equipment to switch formats, etc.

You'll also need to make sure that the receiver has discreet remote IR codes for switching the inputs (for setting up NetCommand).

Personally, I've always been a fan of the Yamaha receivers. Love having the DSP and the "Disco" mode for music.

Yea. I just looked in the back of the devices and jotted down all the digital types so I can find a single receiver to handle. Video will go direct to tv. Yamaha has been up for a long time hasnt it. Was hoping disco died a long time ago

.
post #96 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cheeze View Post

Each input is supposed to save individual settings, right? When I go to the DVD Input, no matter how many times I change it, Video defaults to Brillant Mode and the Contrast is cranked all the way up!

Am I missing something or am doing something wrong when I watch a DVD?

Thanks!

BTW, the upconversion on this TV is amazing. I have an older JVC interlaced DVD player. I finally hooked up the Component cables last night. All I can say is WOW! We are talking near high def with an interlaced DVD player. I was watching Star Wars III.

hhmmm......mine keeps the setting I put for the 4 different inputs I have DVR and CD, cable card and direct in.
post #97 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by largdiag View Post

Its takes longer. Probably about the times you mention. Menu is not slow at all. The TV guide menu is very very slow though. almost unusable

Longer??!!! Damn that sucks. I find that to be very very irritating. I'm not too worried about TV Guide I don't use the feature anyways. but a slower response time than the older models is a big problem. I'm surprise I don't hear anyone complaining about it.
post #98 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RommelB View Post

Longer??!!! Damn that sucks. I find that to be very very irritating. I'm not too worried about TV Guide I don't use the feature anyways. but a slower response time than the older models is a big problem. I'm surprise I don't hear anyone complaining about it.

I think it depends on what you're using as your source.
With DirecTV STB (H20) channel changing speed is very acceptable and in fact lightning quick if you use the guide. Tip; on the H20 do not use "native mode" otherwise it will be somewhat slower.
post #99 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

You'll need a receiver with at least a digital input per component, but make sure the types match. If you have (3) TOS and (1) D-Coax -IN-, but you have (2) D-Coax devices, then you'll have to buy extra equipment to switch formats, etc.

The 65732 has 1 output called: Digital Audio Output (Dolby Digital/PCM, Coax)

I take it that this will output 5.1 audio or surround audio?

thanks!
post #100 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

In addition to the Capn's question...by any chance have you been unplugging inputs that you've saved?

If you unplug an input from the set, the set erases all information for that input and you have to start all over (even if the input device hasn't changed).

I believe this to be a fairly annoying little quirk and that the TV should ask you if the device has changed when it senses an input has been unplugged/replugged. Much like how the TV asks you if the bulb's been changed.

Say what?????
Are you saying that if I get my set ISF calibrated, as I'm planning to do in October, that pulling off any of the inputs will lose the presets? I wouldn't call that a mere quirk. If true, that could be a deal-breaker.

Ohhhh Mitsubishi, your phones are sure going to ring!
post #101 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by largdiag View Post

The 65732 has 1 output called: Digital Audio Output (Dolby Digital/PCM, Coax)

I take it that this will output 5.1 audio or surround audio?

thanks!

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding of Trendsetter's post was that the only INPUT that would yield 5.1 Dolby output was the antenna input, as in utilizing the internal tuner. For all else, such as DVD, D* STB, cable STB, etc. if you want Surround Sound you will need to run 5.1 audio cables (coax, optical. etc) straight from the source (DVD, Cable Box, etc) to your surround sound system amp because the coax output of the MITS will not give you true surround sound from any external input. Only it's own internal tuner outputs true 5.1 audio.

Do I understand correctly?
post #102 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

Say what?????
Are you saying that if I get my set ISF calibrated, as I'm planning to do in October, that pulling off any of the inputs will lose the presets? I wouldn't call that a mere quirk. If true, that could be a deal-breaker.

Ohhhh Mitsubishi, your phones are sure going to ring!

That is my understanding, yes. However...if the TV is completely powered off, and the power is unplugged, and you unplugged HDMI1 and then re-plugged it in to the same HDMI1 while the set is off, I don't think the TV would "know" that you did anything at all. I could be wrong though, I haven't tested.
post #103 of 2650
What other sets is the xx732 competing with? Samsung xx88w? Sony A2000? Has anyone compared it's features and quality with sets? PQ, Sounds, Inputs, response time, cabinet, etc...

I ask because I can't decide which of the 3 i want. Thanks.
post #104 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by largdiag View Post

The 65732 has 1 output called: Digital Audio Output (Dolby Digital/PCM, Coax)

I take it that this will output 5.1 audio or surround audio?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding of Trendsetter's post was that the only INPUT that would yield 5.1 Dolby output was the antenna input, as in utilizing the internal tuner. For all else, such as DVD, D* STB, cable STB, etc. if you want Surround Sound you will need to run 5.1 audio cables (coax, optical. etc) straight from the source (DVD, Cable Box, etc) to your surround sound system amp because the coax output of the MITS will not give you true surround sound from any external input. Only it's own internal tuner outputs true 5.1 audio.

Do I understand correctly?

I think the point he was getting at was whether or not he needed to include the digital-Coax audio OUT from the Mitsu in his list of inputs needed on the receiver. Yes. If you plan on using a cable card or the internal tuners of the TV, AND you want audio through your receiver (not just the TV speakers) then you will need to run a digital-Coax from your TV to your receiver.

As I mentioned earlier, you can't rely on the TV's Digital-Coax -OUT- to provide Dolby Digital signals from your external components when connected via HDMI. For those you'll need to run TOS-Link or D-Coax from the components themselves to the reciever individually.
post #105 of 2650
Greetings! As of yesterday, I am now a member of the 732 club! Well...actually I won't be an "official" member until I take possession in a couple of weeks when my basement is finished but just the same...I'm in! I apologize in advance as I am sometimes long winded but there are a number of things that I'd like to address.

First let me say that I'm not only stoked about upgrading from my 35" Mit CRT to a HD big screen but I'm absolutely ecstatic about the price almost to the point of guilt. Actually, my only feeling of guilt is in not buying from the independent dealer that I had been talking with and have worked with in the past but a $600 difference is a $600 difference. Put it this way...in terms of ones, tens, hundreds and thousands...my hundreds digit was a "0". Surprisingly, UE offered the same deal as an option to their 3-year no, no plan and BB wasn't even in the game by trying to sell a 731 for $200 more than what I paid for the 732. I decided to go with Am's deal because I liked the stand that it was displayed on (I guess because they also sell furniture) and it was cheaper than the Mit stand.

Excuse my brief commentary but I walked in this store and was floored by what I saw! A regular dvd of Independence Day on a regular Bose dvd player hooked up via component connections. I am somewhat experienced at what I'm looking at and this wasn't the biggest and brightest among hundreds. This thing stood out because it had deep, dark, rich detail and contrast under big box lighting on this basic player and I could only imagine what it will look like connected to my Denon player. And I've never witnessed people walking in and stopping dead in their tracks exclaiming WOW! Even half the sales staff was standing around watching this thing. Trust me when I tell you that I don't work for Mit but I simply don't see how anything can compete with this display.

I very much enjoy the posted comments on this site and find them to be very useful so I'd like to throw in a few more questions into the fold for your opinions:

1) Extended warranties - What are your opinions about them? I have the option of a 5 year with no bulb or a 3 year with bulb. Both are $300. While I am a heavy user I'm also pretty meticulous about how I care for my things so how do you think this factors in as it pertains to the 732?

2) Power strips - I'm currently using a regular surge protector and figure I'll upgrade along with everything else but do I really need 1800 joules? What are you using and your experiences?

3) Calibration - I am considering professional calibration; however, it was suggested that I hold off and do my own via DVE or AVIA first. I'm not disputing that professional ISF is better but I'm wondering if other methods would be sufficient given the fact that I have an ideal viewing enviroment with no windows and controlled lighting. Opinions?

Thanks in advance for your input and I look forward to sharing my experiences going forward.
post #106 of 2650
Cap n' Preshoot

So the new Mits can process and deinterlace the 1080i signal properly. Because last years models failed.
post #107 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jsil View Post

Cap n' Preshoot

So the new Mits can process and deinterlace the 1080i signal properly. Because last years models failed.

Yes. I was aware of the problem in last year's models and happy to say it is fixed in the 2007 models.
post #108 of 2650
Thanks Cap n' Preshoot. Now I need to decide what to get FP or Mits 65732 that I'll pick up this weekend from Frys
post #109 of 2650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Closet Geek View Post

1) Extended warranties - What are your opinions about them?

In my personal opinion, a good investment in spite of your poor chances of just breaking even with the up-front cost. Just beware, they're not at all equal. I'd be somewhat suspicious of a $300 5-year warranty. Sounds like there's a weasel clause in there waiting to bite you. Have you actually seen the legal contract? (if not, why not?) Lamp or no lamp, your call. The lamp is $249 and the factory warranty includes the lamp for the first year. I've looked at several of the warranties, have eliminated all but two (TechShield and ServiceNet are still in the running). TS is $452 and SN is $599. I've had good personal experience w/ServiceNet before (paid $2500 claim w/absolutely no hassle) so am down to trying to justify the extra $150 diff. I'd prefer to stay with them, but TechShield's contract language is equal and is backed by AIG. 5 year (4 + factory year) is all I'd ever consider. Anything less is a waste of money, IMO

Quote:


2) Power strips - I'm currently using a regular surge protector and figure I'll upgrade along with everything else but do I really need 1800 joules? What are you using and your experiences?

Yes, by all means use a surge protector (or high quality UPS) and 1800 joules is excellent. I have a Tripp-Lite OmniSmart-1400 VA UPS on mine..... no, not really to be able to "keep watching" during a power outage, but rather to eliminate the momentary hits and brown-outs (low voltage). The TL 1400 is a pure sinewave model. About $499. - WGWYPF (you get what you pay for)

Quote:


3) Calibration - I am considering professional calibration; however, it was suggested that I hold off and do my own via DVE or AVIA first. I'm not disputing that professional ISF is better but I'm wondering if other methods would be sufficient given the fact that I have an ideal viewing enviroment with no windows and controlled lighting. Opinions?

The gentleman who will be doing the ISF calibration on mine suggested we wait until the unit has at least 40 hours on the lamp to let it settle-in. I wouldn't attempt it myself.
post #110 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

Well, #1, keep in mind that, generally speaking, you don't run any video through your Receiver any more. In the non HD days, people got used to running video into their receiver and using it to do the video switching.

You'll need a receiver with at least a digital input per component, but make sure the types match. If you have (3) TOS and (1) D-Coax -IN-, but you have (2) D-Coax devices, then you'll have to buy extra equipment to switch formats, etc.

You'll also need to make sure that the receiver has discreet remote IR codes for switching the inputs (for setting up NetCommand).

Personally, I've always been a fan of the Yamaha receivers. Love having the DSP and the "Disco" mode for music.


I'm in the same boat. Looking to buy a new Mits in the next couple weeks. Also have in the budget a new Yamaha RX-V2700, when they come out, also in a couple of weeks. My current yamaha receiver is old, but I like the Yamaha sound, and the new 2700 will switch up to 1080p video.

My question is the following: With my old setup, I used the old Yamaha to switch inputs to the TV (which is an older Mits, by the way). My intent with the new TV is to use the 2700 to switch HDMI video there also. Any reason not to? The receiver has more inputs than the TV. And I wouldn't think there would be any degradation of video with switching digital signals?!? I think if the videos went direct to the TV and audios went to the receiver, I would have to switch both boxes to switch inputs? Several non-technical folks watch TV in our house and I want to make it as easy as possible.
post #111 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

Yes, by all means use a surge protector (or high quality UPS) and 1800 joules is excellent. I have a Tripp-Lite OmniSmart-1400 VA UPS on mine..... no, not really to be able to "keep watching" during a power outage, but rather to eliminate the momentary hits and brown-outs (low voltage). The TL 1400 is a pure sinewave model. About $499. - WGWYPF (you get what you pay for)

I concur with everything Cap'n says. I picked up a Tripp-Lite OminiSmart-1000LCD UPS from Costco (in-store, haven't checked to see if they're carried online) for a tad over $100 w/tax which was cheaper than anywhere I could fine on the internet. I have the UPS-side running the MITSU 57732 DLP and a SA 8300HD cable STB. The Surge-Protector-side is running my receiver, my VCR, and a DVD player.

Actually experienced a brown-out two days ago that lasted for about a minute. TV and cable STB stayed on and watchable for the whole time. Just when I was about to power-down the TV, the power came back on.
post #112 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by SailorKane View Post

I'm in the same boat. Looking to buy a new Mits in the next couple weeks. Also have in the budget a new Yamaha RX-V2700, when they come out, also in a couple of weeks. My current yamaha receiver is old, but I like the Yamaha sound, and the new 2700 will switch up to 1080p video.

My question is the following: With my old setup, I used the old Yamaha to switch inputs to the TV (which is an older Mits, by the way). My intent with the new TV is to use the 2700 to switch HDMI video there also. Any reason not to? The receiver has more inputs than the TV. And I wouldn't think there would be any degradation of video with switching digital signals?!? I think if the videos went direct to the TV and audios went to the receiver, I would have to switch both boxes to switch inputs? Several non-technical folks watch TV in our house and I want to make it as easy as possible.

Let me start off by saying that's a "wow" receiver. Wow.

Generally speaking, a "good" set like the Mitsu will have better video processing capabilities than most other components you can plug into it (notable exceptions are HD/B-R Players). That being said, it's generally frowned upon to let a receiver do anythign with the video signal when the TV internals could probably do it better.

Specifically, in terms of the 2700, I don't know how good the video capabilites are. It could be as good as, better than, or worse. I dunno. Generally, keeping the receiver out of the video path is the better route to take, but the 2700 being a high-end unit may be an exception. I'd juggest you trial and error the situation and see which way looks best. One alternative would be (assuming the 2700 has this option) would be NOT to upconvert component and/or HDMI/DVI connections. Insted just pass them through.

Now, the problem with upconverting SD connections like s-video or composite to an HD resolution through your 2700 is that Mitsus limit your number of viewing formats for HD content to "standard" and "wide expand" neither of which are good for SD-viewing. By keeping the SD input at 480i, the set will give you 6 or 7 choices of which "narrow" and "stretch" look best for SD content.

In my not-so-humble opinion, the best course is to always feed the TV the original signal in its original resolution and let it do its own work.


Also, if you setup NetCommand properly, it will control your receiver and switch audio inputs for you. (The only bug I've found in the new netcommand versus the one from a year and a half ago is that the new one doesn't seem to be powering on/off the receiver...
post #113 of 2650
TrendSetterX, thanks for the great post! I will test which device does the best upconverting, but right now, I'll assume the Mits will win that battle. Somehow, a Yamaha receiver doesn't seem to have the best pedigree compared with the Mits TV for upconverting video. And since I plan on waiting to upgrade my DVD player until some of the format wars are a little more settled, I'll assume the DVD player is similarly worse than the Mits at upconverting.
Assuming Mits wins, I was planning on letting the 2700 just pass the video through and let the Mits upconvert. Not 100% sure that would work right, however, and your post on the various 480i SD formats in the Mits was VERY enlightening. So, follow-up question. Can I just pass 480i SD direct from, say, a 8300 cable STB to the 2700 and to the Mits? And then let the Mits upconvert? I was hoping I could. Same for DVD input? The Yamaha doesn't upcovert all the way to 1080p, I believe. I believe it just SWITCHES 1080p inputs.

Otherwise, I may indeed pump all video into the Mits directly, and audio into the Yamaha directly, and try to use NetCommand to switch the audio too. Is that easy and convenient? Wife and mother are technically challenged....
post #114 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but my understanding of Trendsetter's post was that the only INPUT that would yield 5.1 Dolby output was the antenna input, as in utilizing the internal tuner. For all else, such as DVD, D* STB, cable STB, etc. if you want Surround Sound you will need to run 5.1 audio cables (coax, optical. etc) straight from the source (DVD, Cable Box, etc) to your surround sound system amp because the coax output of the MITS will not give you true surround sound from any external input. Only it's own internal tuner outputs true 5.1 audio.

Do I understand correctly?

When view OTA or cable, does the digital audio out from the TV, when input to a Reciever that will decode 5.1, does it output the 5.1 audio then?
post #115 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

I think the point he was getting at was whether or not he needed to include the digital-Coax audio OUT from the Mitsu in his list of inputs needed on the receiver. Yes. If you plan on using a cable card or the internal tuners of the TV, AND you want audio through your receiver (not just the TV speakers) then you will need to run a digital-Coax from your TV to your receiver.

As I mentioned earlier, you can't rely on the TV's Digital-Coax -OUT- to provide Dolby Digital signals from your external components when connected via HDMI. For those you'll need to run TOS-Link or D-Coax from the components themselves to the reciever individually.

Yes. thats what Im trying to get to. This to take advantage to surround sound on the HD broadcasts. next step......holodeck
post #116 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cap'n Preshoot View Post

In my personal opinion, a good investment in spite of your poor chances of just breaking even with the up-front cost. Just beware, they're not at all equal. I'd be somewhat suspicious of a $300 5-year warranty. Sounds like there's a weasel clause in there waiting to bite you. Have you actually seen the legal contract? (if not, why not?) Lamp or no lamp, your call. The lamp is $249 and the factory warranty includes the lamp for the first year. I've looked at several of the warranties, have eliminated all but two (TechShield and ServiceNet are still in the running). TS is $452 and SN is $599. I've had good personal experience w/ServiceNet before (paid $2500 claim w/absolutely no hassle) so am down to trying to justify the extra $150 diff. I'd prefer to stay with them, but TechShield's contract language is equal and is backed by AIG. 5 year (4 + factory year) is all I'd ever consider. Anything less is a waste of money, IMO



Yes, by all means use a surge protector (or high quality UPS) and 1800 joules is excellent. I have a Tripp-Lite OmniSmart-1400 VA UPS on mine..... no, not really to be able to "keep watching" during a power outage, but rather to eliminate the momentary hits and brown-outs (low voltage). The TL 1400 is a pure sinewave model. About $499. - WGWYPF (you get what you pay for)



The gentleman who will be doing the ISF calibration on mine suggested we wait until the unit has at least 40 hours on the lamp to let it settle-in. I wouldn't attempt it myself.

MACK has a combo warranty with lamp, 2replacements. not sure if 3 or 4 year after factory warranty. Its a AVS special for $300. can buy at that Texas online outfit. forgot the exact name.
post #117 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by SailorKane View Post

TrendSetterX, thanks for the great post! I will test which device does the best upconverting, but right now, I'll assume the Mits will win that battle. Somehow, a Yamaha receiver doesn't seem to have the best pedigree compared with the Mits TV for upconverting video. And since I plan on waiting to upgrade my DVD player until some of the format wars are a little more settled, I'll assume the DVD player is similarly worse than the Mits at upconverting.
Assuming Mits wins, I was planning on letting the 2700 just pass the video through and let the Mits upconvert. Not 100% sure that would work right, however, and your post on the various 480i SD formats in the Mits was VERY enlightening. So, follow-up question. Can I just pass 480i SD direct from, say, a 8300 cable STB to the 2700 and to the Mits? And then let the Mits upconvert? I was hoping I could. Same for DVD input? The Yamaha doesn't upcovert all the way to 1080p, I believe. I believe it just SWITCHES 1080p inputs.

Otherwise, I may indeed pump all video into the Mits directly, and audio into the Yamaha directly, and try to use NetCommand to switch the audio too. Is that easy and convenient? Wife and mother are technically challenged....

DVD scaling:
It really depends. Some DVD players to a great job. What I have found is that you configure the two to match. I have an Oppo which can output in several different resolutions and it looks best on my older Mitsu DLP feeding it 720P. Others have found that with their setups, 1080i looks "better." In this, the latest (and possibly last), "generation" of DVD players, a decent dvd player will come with some pretty high-end internals so there's a chance the DVD player might do a bit better job upconverting. It's all in what works best with your setup. Also, keep in mind that in the current market place, 99.9% of what you feed your Mitsu will HAVE to be upconverted to 1080p.

8300 scaling:
The SA 8300HD (which I have) has an advanced setup wizard that will allow passthrough of everything your set can handle, and upconversion of what it can't.
See my earlier posts in the general 731, 732, 831 forum here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8423775
and
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8425542

Depending on which version of the 8300 you have (and what firmware is running on it) there are some tricks to setting up the 8300. For example, you can set the 8300 to turn on via pressing "power" or a numeric key entry from the remote. If you set it to turn on using the numeric key, then you can have your Mitsu learn the "0" key from the remote to use as the "power on" command, and then have it learn the normal "power" key for the "power off" command. This way you get discreet power on/off codes. Also, in netcommand setup for the 8300, set it as cablebox, not DVR.

Netcommand input switching:
Once you have netcommand FULLY setup (which includes having the TV learn the IR codes for the receiver and running the IR-Senders around your a/v cabinet so the tv can control the receiver "remotely") it is easy as pressing the "input" button on the remote, and then picking the device. The Mitsu will then change the receiver input as appropriate and, depending on the device being switched to (and how you have it setup) it can even turn that device on for you.
post #118 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by largdiag View Post

MACK has a combo warranty with lamp, 2replacements. not sure if 3 or 4 year after factory warranty. Its a AVS special for $300. can buy at that Texas online outfit. forgot the exact name.

Don't know if any warranties still offer...but in discussions from the last year or so, the "better" warranties offered free once-a-year cleanings. Since DLPs are "open" to the air they get a a LOT of dust inside them and cleanings really do help.
post #119 of 2650
Bulbs get a bit dimmer over time. My retailer said the new Mitsus actually have a light sensor and crank up the voltage over time to the bulb so it maintains its brightness. I have not read anywhere of any confirmation of this.

I know that in my Mitsu DLP from 2 years ago, the community has learned that if you take the bulb out and shake it a bit, that (depending on just how far gone the bulb is) you can actually "wake" some brightness out of it. YMMV
post #120 of 2650
Quote:
Originally Posted by TrendSetterX View Post

Don't know if any warranties still offer...but in discussions from the last year or so, the "better" warranties offered free once-a-year cleanings. Since DLPs are "open" to the air they get a a LOT of dust inside them and cleanings really do help.

Couple years ago I opened up my 12yr old RPTV Sony 53" XBR because it was getting dim I heard you should clean the inside once in a while. The dust was I swear 1/32 thick on the 53" mirror and the CRT lamps. AFter cleaning the picture was bright and beautiful again. Becuase of that I waited 2 more years to buy an HD TV. Glad I did.
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