2007 Mitsubishi 732 series Owner's Thread (57732, 65732, 73732) - Page 4

Is anyone having any problems with xx732? Is SD PQ any different? Response time? Does it take a long time to switch channels or go through the menu like does on the previous models? It takes about a 1+ sec to change SD channels and 2+ seconds to HD channels. I'm thinking of returning my 62627 for 65732 this weekend. The 62627 has way too many problems.

Based on your reccomendation, I switched back to Quickstart. Hopefully, the benefits will out wiegh the costs

So I powered off last night in Quickstart.

Well I unplugged the standard Video cable and hooked up the Component cables last night. I will try it tonight and report back my findings.

Thx!

Its takes longer. Probably about the times you mention. Menu is not slow at all. The TV guide menu is very very slow though. almost unusable

Yea. I just looked in the back of the devices and jotted down all the digital types so I can find a single receiver to handle. Video will go direct to tv. Yamaha has been up for a long time hasnt it. Was hoping disco died a long time ago

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hhmmm......mine keeps the setting I put for the 4 different inputs I have DVR and CD, cable card and direct in.

Longer??!!! Damn that sucks. I find that to be very very irritating. I'm not too worried about TV Guide I don't use the feature anyways. but a slower response time than the older models is a big problem. I'm surprise I don't hear anyone complaining about it.

The 65732 has 1 output called: Digital Audio Output (Dolby Digital/PCM, Coax)

I take it that this will output 5.1 audio or surround audio?

thanks!

That is my understanding, yes. However...if the TV is completely powered off, and the power is unplugged, and you unplugged HDMI1 and then re-plugged it in to the same HDMI1 while the set is off, I don't think the TV would "know" that you did anything at all. I could be wrong though, I haven't tested.

What other sets is the xx732 competing with? Samsung xx88w? Sony A2000? Has anyone compared it's features and quality with sets? PQ, Sounds, Inputs, response time, cabinet, etc...

I ask because I can't decide which of the 3 i want. Thanks.

I think the point he was getting at was whether or not he needed to include the digital-Coax audio OUT from the Mitsu in his list of inputs needed on the receiver. Yes. If you plan on using a cable card or the internal tuners of the TV, AND you want audio through your receiver (not just the TV speakers) then you will need to run a digital-Coax from your TV to your receiver.

As I mentioned earlier, you can't rely on the TV's Digital-Coax -OUT- to provide Dolby Digital signals from your external components when connected via HDMI. For those you'll need to run TOS-Link or D-Coax from the components themselves to the reciever individually.

Greetings! As of yesterday, I am now a member of the 732 club! Well...actually I won't be an "official" member until I take possession in a couple of weeks when my basement is finished but just the same...I'm in! I apologize in advance as I am sometimes long winded but there are a number of things that I'd like to address.

First let me say that I'm not only stoked about upgrading from my 35" Mit CRT to a HD big screen but I'm absolutely ecstatic about the price almost to the point of guilt. Actually, my only feeling of guilt is in not buying from the independent dealer that I had been talking with and have worked with in the past but a $600 difference is a $600 difference. Put it this way...in terms of ones, tens, hundreds and thousands...my hundreds digit was a "0". Surprisingly, UE offered the same deal as an option to their 3-year no, no plan and BB wasn't even in the game by trying to sell a 731 for $200 more than what I paid for the 732. I decided to go with Am's deal because I liked the stand that it was displayed on (I guess because they also sell furniture) and it was cheaper than the Mit stand.

Excuse my brief commentary but I walked in this store and was floored by what I saw! A regular dvd of Independence Day on a regular Bose dvd player hooked up via component connections. I am somewhat experienced at what I'm looking at and this wasn't the biggest and brightest among hundreds. This thing stood out because it had deep, dark, rich detail and contrast under big box lighting on this basic player and I could only imagine what it will look like connected to my Denon player. And I've never witnessed people walking in and stopping dead in their tracks exclaiming WOW! Even half the sales staff was standing around watching this thing. Trust me when I tell you that I don't work for Mit but I simply don't see how anything can compete with this display.

I very much enjoy the posted comments on this site and find them to be very useful so I'd like to throw in a few more questions into the fold for your opinions:

1) Extended warranties - What are your opinions about them? I have the option of a 5 year with no bulb or a 3 year with bulb. Both are $300. While I am a heavy user I'm also pretty meticulous about how I care for my things so how do you think this factors in as it pertains to the 732?

2) Power strips - I'm currently using a regular surge protector and figure I'll upgrade along with everything else but do I really need 1800 joules? What are you using and your experiences?

3) Calibration - I am considering professional calibration; however, it was suggested that I hold off and do my own via DVE or AVIA first. I'm not disputing that professional ISF is better but I'm wondering if other methods would be sufficient given the fact that I have an ideal viewing enviroment with no windows and controlled lighting. Opinions?

Thanks in advance for your input and I look forward to sharing my experiences going forward.

Cap n' Preshoot

So the new Mits can process and deinterlace the 1080i signal properly. Because last years models failed.

Thanks Cap n' Preshoot. Now I need to decide what to get FP or Mits 65732 that I'll pick up this weekend from Frys

I'm in the same boat. Looking to buy a new Mits in the next couple weeks. Also have in the budget a new Yamaha RX-V2700, when they come out, also in a couple of weeks. My current yamaha receiver is old, but I like the Yamaha sound, and the new 2700 will switch up to 1080p video.

My question is the following: With my old setup, I used the old Yamaha to switch inputs to the TV (which is an older Mits, by the way). My intent with the new TV is to use the 2700 to switch HDMI video there also. Any reason not to? The receiver has more inputs than the TV. And I wouldn't think there would be any degradation of video with switching digital signals?!? I think if the videos went direct to the TV and audios went to the receiver, I would have to switch both boxes to switch inputs? Several non-technical folks watch TV in our house and I want to make it as easy as possible.

I concur with everything Cap'n says. I picked up a Tripp-Lite OminiSmart-1000LCD UPS from Costco (in-store, haven't checked to see if they're carried online) for a tad over $100 w/tax which was cheaper than anywhere I could fine on the internet. I have the UPS-side running the MITSU 57732 DLP and a SA 8300HD cable STB. The Surge-Protector-side is running my receiver, my VCR, and a DVD player.

Actually experienced a brown-out two days ago that lasted for about a minute. TV and cable STB stayed on and watchable for the whole time. Just when I was about to power-down the TV, the power came back on.

Let me start off by saying that's a "wow" receiver. Wow.

Generally speaking, a "good" set like the Mitsu will have better video processing capabilities than most other components you can plug into it (notable exceptions are HD/B-R Players). That being said, it's generally frowned upon to let a receiver do anythign with the video signal when the TV internals could probably do it better.

Specifically, in terms of the 2700, I don't know how good the video capabilites are. It could be as good as, better than, or worse. I dunno. Generally, keeping the receiver out of the video path is the better route to take, but the 2700 being a high-end unit may be an exception. I'd juggest you trial and error the situation and see which way looks best. One alternative would be (assuming the 2700 has this option) would be NOT to upconvert component and/or HDMI/DVI connections. Insted just pass them through.

Now, the problem with upconverting SD connections like s-video or composite to an HD resolution through your 2700 is that Mitsus limit your number of viewing formats for HD content to "standard" and "wide expand" neither of which are good for SD-viewing. By keeping the SD input at 480i, the set will give you 6 or 7 choices of which "narrow" and "stretch" look best for SD content.

In my not-so-humble opinion, the best course is to always feed the TV the original signal in its original resolution and let it do its own work.


Also, if you setup NetCommand properly, it will control your receiver and switch audio inputs for you. (The only bug I've found in the new netcommand versus the one from a year and a half ago is that the new one doesn't seem to be powering on/off the receiver...

TrendSetterX, thanks for the great post! I will test which device does the best upconverting, but right now, I'll assume the Mits will win that battle. Somehow, a Yamaha receiver doesn't seem to have the best pedigree compared with the Mits TV for upconverting video. And since I plan on waiting to upgrade my DVD player until some of the format wars are a little more settled, I'll assume the DVD player is similarly worse than the Mits at upconverting.
Assuming Mits wins, I was planning on letting the 2700 just pass the video through and let the Mits upconvert. Not 100% sure that would work right, however, and your post on the various 480i SD formats in the Mits was VERY enlightening. So, follow-up question. Can I just pass 480i SD direct from, say, a 8300 cable STB to the 2700 and to the Mits? And then let the Mits upconvert? I was hoping I could. Same for DVD input? The Yamaha doesn't upcovert all the way to 1080p, I believe. I believe it just SWITCHES 1080p inputs.

Otherwise, I may indeed pump all video into the Mits directly, and audio into the Yamaha directly, and try to use NetCommand to switch the audio too. Is that easy and convenient? Wife and mother are technically challenged....

When view OTA or cable, does the digital audio out from the TV, when input to a Reciever that will decode 5.1, does it output the 5.1 audio then?

Yes. thats what Im trying to get to. This to take advantage to surround sound on the HD broadcasts. next step......holodeck

MACK has a combo warranty with lamp, 2replacements. not sure if 3 or 4 year after factory warranty. Its a AVS special for $300. can buy at that Texas online outfit. forgot the exact name.

DVD scaling:
It really depends. Some DVD players to a great job. What I have found is that you configure the two to match. I have an Oppo which can output in several different resolutions and it looks best on my older Mitsu DLP feeding it 720P. Others have found that with their setups, 1080i looks "better." In this, the latest (and possibly last), "generation" of DVD players, a decent dvd player will come with some pretty high-end internals so there's a chance the DVD player might do a bit better job upconverting. It's all in what works best with your setup. Also, keep in mind that in the current market place, 99.9% of what you feed your Mitsu will HAVE to be upconverted to 1080p.

8300 scaling:
The SA 8300HD (which I have) has an advanced setup wizard that will allow passthrough of everything your set can handle, and upconversion of what it can't.
See my earlier posts in the general 731, 732, 831 forum here:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8423775
and
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...&&#post8425542

Depending on which version of the 8300 you have (and what firmware is running on it) there are some tricks to setting up the 8300. For example, you can set the 8300 to turn on via pressing "power" or a numeric key entry from the remote. If you set it to turn on using the numeric key, then you can have your Mitsu learn the "0" key from the remote to use as the "power on" command, and then have it learn the normal "power" key for the "power off" command. This way you get discreet power on/off codes. Also, in netcommand setup for the 8300, set it as cablebox, not DVR.

Netcommand input switching:
Once you have netcommand FULLY setup (which includes having the TV learn the IR codes for the receiver and running the IR-Senders around your a/v cabinet so the tv can control the receiver "remotely") it is easy as pressing the "input" button on the remote, and then picking the device. The Mitsu will then change the receiver input as appropriate and, depending on the device being switched to (and how you have it setup) it can even turn that device on for you.

Don't know if any warranties still offer...but in discussions from the last year or so, the "better" warranties offered free once-a-year cleanings. Since DLPs are "open" to the air they get a a LOT of dust inside them and cleanings really do help.

Bulbs get a bit dimmer over time. My retailer said the new Mitsus actually have a light sensor and crank up the voltage over time to the bulb so it maintains its brightness. I have not read anywhere of any confirmation of this.

I know that in my Mitsu DLP from 2 years ago, the community has learned that if you take the bulb out and shake it a bit, that (depending on just how far gone the bulb is) you can actually "wake" some brightness out of it. YMMV

Couple years ago I opened up my 12yr old RPTV Sony 53" XBR because it was getting dim I heard you should clean the inside once in a while. The dust was I swear 1/32 thick on the 53" mirror and the CRT lamps. AFter cleaning the picture was bright and beautiful again. Becuase of that I waited 2 more years to buy an HD TV. Glad I did.