Infocus IN72 Specific Thread - Page 72

I just bought a 2nd hand IN72.
The lamp hours is 70 and total lamp hour is 70 also. But the lamp reset counter is 3.

Does it mean that the seller might use it for more than the total lamp hour indicated and then reset it again and again so it will reach lower hour ?

Will resetting the lamp hour make all lamp hour count reach to zero again ?

Is there a limit on how many time we can reset the lamp ?

Thanks for any help.

I use 4805 for 4 years and never try to hit this reset for lower lamp hour.

kbgl

Thank you for the pictures. Of course its all about camera settings and also what brightness settings i have on my computer screen, so its hard to judge the pictures.

One thing that might be important is that i've got a white screen with 1.0 gain, and you've got a dark grey screen you said. What gain is it? you maybe get better black levels for that reason. but how is your brightness? Does it become much worse with a grey screen than with a white do you think?

You know, with better black levels, but "light grey" white areas instead of very white, it won't be better, just more of a darker image. I mean, will the whole image will become darker, or just the black areas using a grey screen?

thanks

Hi, can anyone help me on this matter ?
Thanks before

Couple possibilities:

1. The owner has replaced the bulb three times. Each time you replace the bulb you'd reset the lamp counter.Resetting the lamp counter returns it to zero. Is it possible the machine saw that much use? How old is it?

I doubt this is the case.

2. You are using the original bulb and it's been reset three times. There is no telling how many hours on the machine at this point. With that many resets, I'd expect that the bulb is very old. I'd suggest thinking about getting a new bulb for the future. There is simply no way to know how much time has elapsed on the bulb.

There is no limit of bulb resets.


I really appreciate that Infocus has the bulb reset counter. When buying a projector, always ask to see the lamp hours/resets. Optoma HD70s don't count resets and buying one used is a crap shoot.

Thanks for your help Klover.
Based on the receipt, its a 10 months old. Is this in72 still available new last June 2007 ?

Whats the diff between hours use and total hours use ?

I thought the lamp number gave the total for the current bulb, while the total lamp number was the total on the unit.

I was thinking the same, but then how come this unit has the same number between lamp hours and total hours lamp, while the reset count already 3.

Actually the lamp hours should be lower than total hours right ?

Can anyone explain this.

Or anyone may share what happen if we hit the reset lamp button without changing the bulb ? Don't have the heart to do it.

Pls share ...

I'd guess that the unit was sent to IF for service (most likely for a fuse replacement discussed in this thread) and they reset the lamp hours there while doing a factory reset in their testing. A similar instance happened to someone else here. If they didn't put more than a few minutes on the bulb while testing it, the hours would remain the same.

So it's possible that the 70 hours usage indicator is genuine ?

And also, when the lamp reach 3000 hours, will it died instantly or we can expect to use it a little longer.

Unless someone pulled a fast one in a way that I can't immediately come up with, it's possible. Bulbs from ANY projector don't immediately die when you reach XXXX hours. They grow dim as time marches on, kicking the bucket at various times depending upon a plethora of conditions and factors. I've heard of people with widely different makes and models getting as little as 500 hours, while others have more than 10,000 with the same units.

DallMachines

There are limits and trade-offs of course, but keep in mind that you can turn up contrast to get brighter whites if necessary. However, you can't turn anything down to improve the blacks. Using a gray screen essentially turns down the picture brightness. Everything becomes darker, including ambient light reflecting off the screen. Then you can increase contrast a little if needed to bring the whites back up, but leaving the blacks uneffected. If you look at the white clothing in the pictures, you can judge for yourself how white they are vs how white you think they should be, or would like them to be. You are right about monitors. Last night I saw these pictures on a friends computer, and they looked even better than on my computers. I pasted in a white and black reference on the porch picture. That was made by photo deluxe and was not projected on the screen, or affected by the camera. Compare that white to the white blouse. If you feel like experimenting, paint a small panel and have someone hold it up in front of your screen. If you get a quart mixed, try about 4/32 black tint. If your screen is 90" or smaller, try about 8/32 black tint. I'm using about 12/32 tint, and experimenting with sheen, which also plays a roll.

You mean 3.500 to 13.000 hours on a single bulb ?

No. I mean as little as 500 (premature death by 2,500 hours) to as high as 10,000+ (extended life by 7,000+ hours) on a single bulb.

Thanks alot for your information Spyder, you're really a big help.

1 more thing, can you share what factors usually extend or shorten a bulb life ?

Biggest "non-controllable" factor is easily viewing times per bulb strike, meaning the number of hours you watch the PJ each time after turing it on and before turning it off. Since each strike of the bulb is equivalent to about 2 hours, someone that watches 2 hours X 4 times per day will get FAR less hours than someone that watches for 8 hours straight. It's not uncommon for our PJ to sit unwatched for 30-60 minutes at a time, as it would be far worse to shut it down and restrike the bulb when we're done eating dinner, etc. (Last bulb got over 5,000 hours and was still working great when the unit was sold. )

If your bulb requires filter screens to be cleaned, allowing them to get clogged with dust and dirt can kill a bulb. Dirty environments are bad for bulbs, period. Hot rooms or insufficient ventilation are harsh on bulb life. Moving the unit when it's hot is bad, throwing a bucket of ice water on the unit isn't a great idea. Pretty common sense-type things.

One issue that has caused much debate is whether or not it is better to allow the unit to run the fan after shutdown. Personally, I feel that it is much, much less stressful on all parts to allow the unit to cool down without air being shoved down the projector's throat, but that's just me. Others would disagree, stating that the hot air trapped inside the projector is somehow trapped and cannot escape without the forced exit. This seems to me to be a counter-productive remnant of the business-class model, where one gives a PowerPoint presentation and wants to pack up the PJ and leave immediately. Ceiling mounted or other home theater units shouldn't be going anywhere after viewing.

Now that is something very informative I'd say.
Never knew such things.

Once again thank you very much Spyder, you really know your way around this "web".

Thanks spyder, nice to hear how i can increase my lamp hours. Good information, well writed. I appreciate!

Always glad to help!

(Despite my reputation for incessant complaining on the movie and TV threads )

P.S. Cavu is really the one to listen to. When he speaks, listen well!

Just picked up a Toshiba A35 and compared to the D1, the D1 seems to have the cleaner picture when playing SD-dvd. The A35 did have punchier colors but not as accurate. Perhaps I'll do some additional tweaking on the A35 to see if it deserves to play my SD-DVDs.

Also, would anyone know if using the custom rez in a HTPC net similar results as the D1 ?

Thanks for the verification in regard to SD material.

To answer your question about the HTPC: Yes, but it's a ton of work for the same results.

You will get way better quality than D1 with pixel mapped + ffdshow filters. As Spyder said, its tons of work right from choosing the components and configuring etc. Not to mention the cost of HTPC. But the rewards in picture quality are way more. I am moving back to HTPC from D1. D1 was nice, but I had HTPC before and missed the quality of it.

That being said, if someone needs a modded D1, PM me.

adude,

WAY more might be pushing it with the IN72. Even the jump to HD material isn't THAT large with this unit. I'm not attempting to discredit your statement, rather, I'm simply stating that we don't want folks assuming that the jump will be something akin to going from VHS to DVD.

do you run your htpc pixel mapped at 854x480 ? I been throwing a 1280x768 signal to the in72 and it seems great (mostly HD rips).
Going to see if I can get better results with 1:1 mapping.

Yes, I run it on 854x480. But mind you, getting 854x480 was very painful on nvidia boards. The video drivers act nasty with it. The best way is to start with 848x480 and then work your way up. It is still pixel mapped at 848x480, although IN72 will show it with black 3 pixel columns.

Spyder: I agree D1 throws a quality picture compared to other upconverting players. But HTPC is quite a jump, not exactly like VHS to DVD as you rightly said, but the difference is very noticeable. Proof: Look at Louis Gabriel Gerena's screenshots in 4805 thread.

Although, if you are not ready to tweak and spend a week on HTPC, better to stick with D1. Its a very good player in PQ compared to another 200/300 $ players.

Louis spent two years tweaking! Plug-n-Play for me. I have enough headaches.

That's why I have one more D1 as backup

what do you mean by work your way up from 848x480 ? I thought you would set it and forget it just as with the D1.
I wonder what else is involved to require a week or let alone two years ? I use a few tweaks from the HTPC walkthrough guide and playing HD .mkv files seem to already look quite good.
I'll run a few tweaks and compare against the D1 later this wknd.

The main problem with pixel mapping on HTPC was with 480p 16:9 resolution. Nvidia drivers set very easily to 848x480 and 856x480 @47.95 Hz. So, you can set 848x480 first, set ffdshow filters and start watching. Over the time, you can tweak with different timings and get the 854x480. A lot depends on gfx card and the driver versions. Nvidia cards achieved it quite easily but certainly takes time.

About Louis spending two years: He spent lot of time in getting the ffdshow + player software + filters to work and then tweak those. But now, all of that info is available and you can set up the entire ffdshow + filters in less than a day by using the ffdshow sticky thread in HTPC forum. It gives you steps for most of the configs. Then it can be tweaked to get the picture to an individual's liking. One can tweak it for one week long or longer. But its certain that its possible to start in a day or so with all these configs and enjoy nice picture.

what settings are you using on a regular dvd (hdmi)
sorry for my english i´m from Sweden.

Hi, I have a pink picture with the component and hdmi input.Funny thing is that my PS2 works great with component and a PS3 works great with the HDMI input but my Gamecube does not. I`ve looked around in avs but could not find a solution.But mayby I´ve overlooked something or used the wrong words in my search . I´ve seen that other share my problem but ther was no solution. I don`t get any errormessages. Please help me and many thanks in advance.

PS: I´m from Germany so please overlook any errors in my spelling . Answering might take some time due to the timedifference.