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Official Sony XBR2 (60" & 70") Owner's Thread - Page 395

post #11821 of 12044
thanx smit and fmalczewski

You both had execellent ideas - I say that because those are what I also thought of smile.gif.

I've taken it apart again - all the way to taking out the OB - and put it back together (a tiring afternoon) - but unfortunately the same results.

I also did the Test Reset. No luck there either.

So, guess I'll call tri-state tomorrow and see what they say.

thanks again for the help/suggestions.
post #11822 of 12044
update..

Talked to tri-state tech. good news - it's not the OB (didn't think it was). bad news - he guesses it's some connector or wire located on the main circuit panel that got either disconnected or damaged. he doubts i'd (or even he'd) be able to figure out what.

I sent an email to sony tech support - don't expect much though.

Very disappointed frown.gif. I really enjoyed this set when things were right - that's why I took a chance on fixing as opposed to replacing (with something other than a sony - no matter what they're offering).

guess i'll just have to live with it for a while - then donate it - when finances allow for replacement set.

thanks again for the help.

if some else thinks of something to try, let me know - i feel like i'm an expert at taking it apart - although apparently i broke it eek.gif.
post #11823 of 12044
I type red faced...

turns out the DVR had changed it setting from sending native signal to always sending 480p. When OB was in for repair, I had hooked up my pc monitor to the HDMI of the DVR. After switching the HDMI to the TV, the DVR reset itself to always send 480p. (re-did the test to confirm and happened again). Not sure what i thought i was seeing when i tested blu-ray previously eek.gif.

so let that be a lesson to all you kids out there smile.gifsmile.gif.

Picture is AWESOME once again (or will be once I get Spears/Munsil disk out to calibrate). I highly recommend tri-state for OB repair. Hoepfully I'll at least get a few thousand hours out of it - bulb should have that much life left too.

it really is not very difficult to take apart and put back together. i'm more than willing to assist anyone that needs it. I have a good list of steps (picture taking wasn't so great though).

i am a happy camper - or at least as happy as i can be considerng my $6K TV developed a green blob - which was supposedly not supposed to happen since it was resolved afer the same issue appeared on the XBR1 - a few months after my $500 warranty expired - and i had to take it apart and spend another $350 (with shipping) and put it back together. At least the repair wait time was very short.

gotta go - movie time...

thanks for reading my saga
post #11824 of 12044
I called TriState today. For $329, they will ship me an already repaired OB. And, he said if I ship them mine, they'll send me $75 (they'll use the red and green lcd panels to repair 2 others. Good business. That beats shipping it out and waiting.
post #11825 of 12044
Quote:
Originally Posted by bklyn1028 View Post

I called TriState today. For $329, they will ship me an already repaired OB. And, he said if I ship them mine, they'll send me $75 (they'll use the red and green lcd panels to repair 2 others. Good business. That beats shipping it out and waiting.

you'll have to pay for shipping, so you won't clear the full $75 - but no waiting sounds good to me -- i'd say go for it
post #11826 of 12044
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_bull View Post

you'll have to pay for shipping, so you won't clear the full $75 - but no waiting sounds good to me -- i'd say go for it

Ok, how about this. It seems from research, that the blue lcd panel on the block is the bad one. Seems all three panels are the same, hence you can replace the blue with green, etc. Is it possible ( I can buy the panel on TriState for $79.00) since I'm removing the whole enchilada anyway to replace the panel itself (that is what they are doing). Question is, is replacing the lcd panel more than just 4 screws. Is there calibrating involved? Am I biting or more than I can chew?.
post #11827 of 12044
Quote:
Originally Posted by bklyn1028 View Post

Ok, how about this. It seems from research, that the blue lcd panel on the block is the bad one. Seems all three panels are the same, hence you can replace the blue with green, etc. Is it possible ( I can buy the panel on TriState for $79.00) since I'm removing the whole enchilada anyway to replace the panel itself (that is what they are doing). Question is, is replacing the lcd panel more than just 4 screws. Is there calibrating involved? Am I biting or more than I can chew?.

I was just happy that i got it apart and got the OB out (and even happier that I got it all put back together). Honestly, I never thought about or looked at taking the OB itself apart, so I can't help you there.
post #11828 of 12044
I just got off the phone with tri-state. It was a confusing call as he referred to it as a light engine. He said you would be bonkers to take it apart down to the OB as you would need special tools to get it aligned again. So, all of the text I've read doesn't align with the information Tri-State gave me.
post #11829 of 12044
If you replace one of LCD panels yourself on a Sony, you have to redo the physical convergence of the three colors. There is no electronic convergence on these sets (as there is on JVC for example). This requires some kind of a jig so you can light the engine and observe the results on a screen of moving the panels around until you get it just right. If you work out the size of the pixels on the panel itself, you will see that your adjustment has to be done to the ten-thousandth of an inch.

Even removal is tricky because the tiny screws holding them on are Loctite'd, and if you strip the philips head you are screwed. The ribbon cables from the LCD panel to the PCB driver board are also very easy to mess up.

The 'light engine' refers to the entire assembly, the 'optical block' is a small subassembly of the light engine. The optical block is an X-cube prism with the LCD panels attached. The two terms are often used interchangeably however.

It's also good to keep LCD driver boards mated with the rest of the light engine, because the LCD driver board is where Service Menu settings for the light engine are stored.
post #11830 of 12044
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckF. View Post

If you replace one of LCD panels yourself on a Sony, you have to redo the physical convergence of the three colors. There is no electronic convergence on these sets (as there is on JVC for example). This requires some kind of a jig so you can light the engine and observe the results on a screen of moving the panels around until you get it just right. If you work out the size of the pixels on the panel itself, you will see that your adjustment has to be done to the ten-thousandth of an inch.
Even removal is tricky because the tiny screws holding them on are Loctite'd, and if you strip the philips head you are screwed. The ribbon cables from the LCD panel to the PCB driver board are also very easy to mess up.
The 'light engine' refers to the entire assembly, the 'optical block' is a small subassembly of the light engine. The optical block is an X-cube prism with the LCD panels attached. The two terms are often used interchangeably however.
It's also good to keep LCD driver boards mated with the rest of the light engine, because the LCD driver board is where Service Menu settings for the light engine are stored.

I saw a video on youtube, and this guy took the whole thing apart, and changed the "blue" lcd panel with another. Then he had a "jig" he made from an old A2000 he literally sliced the top part of the tv off, and mounted the fixed optical block in and calibrated/adjusted the panel with the light on his ceiling. No way I can do that. So I'll just get the engine and attempt to install. A couple of Hail Mary's wouldn't hurt either.
post #11831 of 12044
I am so glad I happened across this forum. My 60XBR SXRD has the green tint which I'm sure is the optcal block issue. I have been back and forth with Sony and pushed them just about as hard as I care to and I'm not too happy with their current replacement offer. I'm fairly mechanically inclined & after reading these posts, I think I'm up to the task. If I can get 4 or 5 more yrs out of this TV, I'll be happy. It is not our main TV so I'm hoping it'll last awhile. Thanks again for all the great info!
post #11832 of 12044
The ob on my set was just replaced last year still under the extended warranty smile.gif. It lasted me about 4 years under what I think was some heavy usage. My warranty expires next month so hopefully I'll get a few more years out of it. The one thing I can't adjust on my set though is the horizontal settings. They are greyed out and the screen is not centered it's lowered. Anyone know how to force those settings to be adjustable?
post #11833 of 12044
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaliscojorge View Post

The ob on my set was just replaced last year still under the extended warranty smile.gif. It lasted me about 4 years under what I think was some heavy usage. My warranty expires next month so hopefully I'll get a few more years out of it. The one thing I can't adjust on my set though is the horizontal settings. They are greyed out and the screen is not centered it's lowered. Anyone know how to force those settings to be adjustable?

Don't know how to make those settings enabled, but after getting my OB repaired I changed the vertical center via the service menu, as follows:

With TV OFF - enter the Service Menu: DISPLAY -> 5 -> VOL (+) -> TV POWER

• Press JUMP button until the panel service mode is displayed.
• Select the '1 TG' Panel. (You can press the '1' or '2' button until it's displayed).
• Keep pressing '1' button until you get to Sub item 35 POB_ENA (I thought mine said POA_ENA, but whichever).
• Press '6' button to change data to '0' (This allows the settings to be changed).
• Keep pressing '4' button until you get back down to Sub item 28 V_CENT (you can also change 29 H_CENT if needed).
• Adjust with 3 (up) or 6 (down) button.

To save changes (i.e. write data) press MUTE then ENT button (I believe you'll see the word WRITE (or something) in red for a second or two).

Press TV POWER to turn off TV.


Make sure you don't change anything else (unless you intend to). If you think you made an error, then before saving, just turn the TV off without saving.
post #11834 of 12044
Thanks the_bull. I'll try that as soon as I get a chance.

Typed from a ZENned out vibrant. Thanks to DD!
post #11835 of 12044
So here's my step-by-step for removing the OB from the 70XBR2. Note that "left" and "right" are from looking at set from behind (unless otherwise noted).

Tools: Phillips screwdriver (or as my wife calls it - "the one with the star") and patience.

Time: Approx. 2 hours (or less since YOU have instructions).

Tip: Put the screws that secure each piece into a zip bag and tape the bag to the piece, so you know which screws go with which piece.


Unplug the power cord.

Remove the lamp:
- Remove the outside lamp cover.
- Remove the lamp door. (Turn the screw counterclockwise, and then turn the knob to the left until the marks on the lid and the case line up. Remove the door.)
- Pull out the lamp. (Hold the indents on the top and bottom of the lamp and pull the lamp straight out.)

Remove the rear cover (10 screws).

Remove the center metal support brace (4 screws) - kind of looks like an X.

Unscrew the main circuit board chassis (now referred to as MCBC) (6 screws).
338

Disconnect the 3 white wire connectors located behind the top right of the MCBC.
338

Unscrew and disconnect the silver/grey ground connector behind the right of the MCBC (re-screw the screw back in so you later know where it is and where it belongs).

Disconnect the 6 wire connectors to the lower left of the MCBC. (the connectors have different colors -black or white - different colored wires and different # of wires - so it should be easy to reconnect them later).
338

Disconnect the white connector (2 wires one white, one grey) that is comes from the back of the MCBC and is plugged into the top right side of the power supply block circuit board (which is attached to the lamp housing assembly).
338

Disconnect the 2 connectors (that come from the OB) that are plugged into the lower left of the MCBC (one is a white connector with a thick greyish wire, the other is a thin connector with numerous blue wires). And unscrew and disconnect the silver/grey ground connector (that comes from the OB) (re-screw the screw back in so you know later where it is and where it belongs).
338

Remove the right-side stabilizer bar (2 screws).

Partially pull out the MCBC.

In behind the left-side of the MCBC, disconnect the small black wire connector (for the fan on the OB cover) and the larger white wire connector (from the OB).

Pull the MCBC entirely out.

Put the right-side stabilizer bar back in (to maintain support for the TV) - just put screws in partially.

Remove left-side stabilizer bar (2 screws).

Disconnect tiny white connector (that comes from the large fan) that is plugged into the top left side of the power supply block circuit board.
338

Remove the large fan (2 screws - 1 top left, one bottom middle).

Remove the large plastic OB cover (7 screws) - (the bottom left and right has what looks like tabs, these are actually slotted into the set's shell, you may need to pry these up a little in order to pull this cover out).
338

Unscrew the lamp housing assembly (3 screws).

Look inside the lamp housing assembly (about 1/3 way in on the left) there is another screw that holds the assembly to the TV shell - you'll need to remove this screw with a short Phillips screwdriver.

Unscrew and remove the front lower right (looking from the front of TV) bezel - there is a single screw located inside where the lamp door would be -remove that screw and the bezel slides out to the right (looking from front of TV).

Unscrew the 2 screws from the front of the TV (where the bezel was removed) to loosen the OB.
330

Remove the OB and the lamp housing assembly as one (you'll need to separate these, but it's easier to do after it's out of the TV shell).

Put the left-side stabilizer bar back in (to maintain support for the TV) - just put screws in partially.

Separate the OB from the lamp housing assembly - pull the two pieces apart as much as you can, you should see 4 tiny screws (basically in the 4 corners of the connection point) - remove them to disconnect.

Remove the plastic cover on the OB by removing the two black screws.

338


Now that wasn't so bad, was it?
Edited by the_bull - 6/19/12 at 11:58am
post #11836 of 12044
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckF. View Post

If you replace one of LCD panels yourself on a Sony, you have to redo the physical convergence of the three colors. There is no electronic convergence on these sets (as there is on JVC for example). This requires some kind of a jig so you can light the engine and observe the results on a screen of moving the panels around until you get it just right. If you work out the size of the pixels on the panel itself, you will see that your adjustment has to be done to the ten-thousandth of an inch.
Even removal is tricky because the tiny screws holding them on are Loctite'd, and if you strip the philips head you are screwed. The ribbon cables from the LCD panel to the PCB driver board are also very easy to mess up.
The 'light engine' refers to the entire assembly, the 'optical block' is a small subassembly of the light engine. The optical block is an X-cube prism with the LCD panels attached. The two terms are often used interchangeably however.
It's also good to keep LCD driver boards mated with the rest of the light engine, because the LCD driver board is where Service Menu settings for the light engine are stored.

Chuck,
It has been a while since I did this but I did utilize a service menu convergence adjustment after my OB replacement. It is very limited and simply a pixel move in each direction but it changed my sharpness/convergence from "okay" to "great" again. But I guess I was lucky my convergence was off that exact amount.

BJBBJB
post #11837 of 12044
Quote:
Originally Posted by BJBBJB View Post

Chuck,
It has been a while since I did this but I did utilize a service menu convergence adjustment after my OB replacement. It is very limited and simply a pixel move in each direction but it changed my sharpness/convergence from "okay" to "great" again. But I guess I was lucky my convergence was off that exact amount.
BJBBJB

As I recall there are a couple of SXRD models that have an adjustment of a pixel or two (and only in horizontal?) but that's far from enough. It's common in replacing LCD panels to find yourself off by 1/4" to 1/2" on the screen, corresponding to a dozen pixels or more.

If you dropped in a new panel and found it off by only one pixel, that's astoundingly lucky.
post #11838 of 12044
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckF. View Post

As I recall there are a couple of SXRD models that have an adjustment of a pixel or two (and only in horizontal?) but that's far from enough. It's common in replacing LCD panels to find yourself off by 1/4" to 1/2" on the screen, corresponding to a dozen pixels or more.
If you dropped in a new panel and found it off by only one pixel, that's astoundingly lucky.

Oh, no...no... I did not put in a new panel. Just a new OB.
Mines the 70 inch and yes, it was only a pixel or two.

BJBBJB
post #11839 of 12044
The Bull...Thank you so much for your hard work on the very detailed instructions.
post #11840 of 12044
I took my 70 and swapped it with an old Hitachi 60 I had in my den while I wait for a replacement Light engine. In the meantime, with just a cable plugged in, and no cable box, I have a picture, however for some reason, the original Sony remote won't let me change a channel. I have to plug in the channel #, and hit the "ent" key. Doesn't matter which cable input I use either.
post #11841 of 12044
All of these Sony light engines are easy to repair. The problem comes in getting two specific parts --- the LCD (all three color LCDs are interchangeable and, hence, more availability exists of this part) and the corresponding color polarized filter (blue being the most common one to fail by getting cloudy). Alignment after replacing is fairly simple and easily done. It is too bad that a good source of the blue polarizing filters can not be found. With salvaged parts, I've repaired several optical blocks with excellent results.
post #11842 of 12044
Secretplayer, was jst wondering if you've made any progress with the actual optical block repair process that you said you were working on with Steve Linke?
post #11843 of 12044
Has any one in Canada been successful in securing an exchange offer from Sony for their XBR2 70" due to the OB going. I've had it replaced 3 times under extended warranty, but now the 5 yrs are up, and the green problem is showing its ugly face again.
post #11844 of 12044
Quote:
Originally Posted by avious1 View Post

Secretplayer, was jst wondering if you've made any progress with the actual optical block repair process that you said you were working on with Steve Linke?
I assume you are referring to me. However, I am not aware of any fix that would guarantee 10,000 hours. I have heard the plastic vs. glass lens claim in the past, and that may have been one problem at one time. However, I do not think it fixes the whole problem, even if it is true.
post #11845 of 12044
1st I've heard of this "new ob" with "glass lenses" that fixes the design. Any more info on this? Link?
post #11846 of 12044
My 60xbr2 OB died again. Talked to Sarah and will be getting a 55HX850 for $829 + tax.

Looks like a pretty good box from the reviews.
post #11847 of 12044
Quote:
Originally Posted by dvdsurfer View Post

My 60xbr2 OB died again. Talked to Sarah and will be getting a 55HX850 for $829 + tax.

My 70" had the OB replaced under their standard Extended Warranty in January. Anyone know whether Sony will do a deal when the inevitable happens again?
post #11848 of 12044
I would not bet on at this point. But you never know if you don't try!
post #11849 of 12044
Quote:
Originally Posted by HomieG View Post

Look at some replacements from other manufacturers too. Even with the Sony discount and so-called accommodation, there's not great value in purchasing their inferior products. They're very overpriced when compared to their competitors. Check out LG and Sharp, and check out their repair history as well. I think you'll be surprised at the differences.

anyone moved to the sharp quattron from this set? i was thinking of going from my 60 to a 70" quat.
post #11850 of 12044
So, after about 5 1/2 years, my 60xbr2 has finally started going green. Normally I'm a fan of going green, but not in this case. I noticed my TV was getting a bit dark/greenish, but I originally thought it was a fading bulb.
I've gone thru 3 bulbs and the last one was aftermarket so I figured a new bulb would do the trick. Well, it didn't and now it's getting greener by the day.

I've read thru hundreds of posts, but I have a few questions if any of you experienced folks have a minute.

It appears my entire screen is turning green a the same rate - as if someone had messed with my color balance. Is this normal or does it usually start as a small blob and then spread?

My extended warranty expired in March so I'm at Sony's mercy. Is Sarah still the person to contact and is the best way to reach her thru Facebook (and which Facebook page is the right one)?
Any advice on how to best negotiate? I definitely don't want to go smaller than 60".

Also,I know some people have been repairing their OBs. Can I be certain if I'm going green it's my OB? And, has anybody had a bad experience doing this (such as, it didn't fix the problem)? Is Tristate the best place to go for OB repair?

Thanks in advance for any information you can share.
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