Originally Posted by Ivan Beaver
I agree totally with Mark Seaton. You will probalby be dissappointed if you try to use the DTS 20 for DJ type music. Not that it will sound bad-It sound great with music and special effects, but it just won't get as loud as you probably need it to, unless you are doing very small events. Just moving the thing is a beast.
Why is your friend selling his? Just curious.
When you say loudest, you HAVE to say at what freq your are interested in. Without that spec, everything is meaningless-at least to those who really care. If all you want is LOUD, then use an Community M4 driver. It will get stupid loud, but only in the midrange area. Not very good for bass, but it is loud. You have to tie a freq to it in order for ti to mean anything.
For example, many manufacturers like to have seperate specs for the sensitivity and low freq capabilities of their cabinets. You HAVE to tie the 2 spec together to mean anything. There is one MAJOR manufacturer who rates their 2x18" cabinet sensitivity at 1800Hz. Is that really where you want to run your subs at? But it give a good high number that is real, it just doesn't do you any good.
Many times the low freq response (stated -3dB) is quite good looking, untill you really look at it. Often times it is 6-9dB below the rated sensitivity. How do they calim this-it all depends on how you interpet the numbers. If for example they claim +-3 dB as the response. This gives you a 6 dB window in which they can claim "flat" So the Sensitivity is actually at the very top of the window, and the "flat response is -6dB down from that. NOW you take another 3dB down to get the speced -3dB response. So it is really 9dB down from the peak. That is A LOT of power to make up-almost a factor of 10 X power.
You really have to look at the REAL specs if you want to get an idea of how they actually perform. You also need to know quite a bit about how the specs were actually measured, there are lots of games to play there also.
Danley uses quite conservative measurements-outdoor at a distance of 10M. Anybody with almost any type of measurement system can measure the same published specs. There are no special pulse tones, loading of mics or cabinets etc.
While the DTS20 is great for home, you need something that is quite a bit louder for DJ use. The TH115 would be great for a couple of reasons. Easy to transport, the loudest cabinet (that I know of) down at 40Hz, greater power capacity, easy to stack etc.
You can power them with any amp you want. You will get more out of them than other simular cabinets with the same power input because the sensitivity is so high. If you REALLY want to get the most out of them, I suggest something on the order of 2000Watts/cabinet. That is a BIG amp or you can use a smaller amp and bridge it. Just don't load it down below it rated BRIDGED impedance.
Be sure to use a Highpass filter (low cut) around 25hz. I prefer butterworth 24dB.octave to prevent overexcursion. Your low pass (high cut) will depend on the rest of your system.