Official 2007 Mitsubishi WD-xx73X/WD-xx831 Settings & Tweaks Thread - Page 2

My factory settings are (65732):

GGL 1024
GRL 1006
GBL 822

I'm thinking everyone's is different because they must adjust each set to it's DLP light engine at the factory.

My factory settings are

GGL 1002
GRL 1024
GBL 800

I've only changed GGL to 970

For 65732

What I meant to ask was: Is a Mits, coming off the manufacturing line, calibrated with the same numbers in the "low" and "high" color temperature (for that one set)?

If I (not a calibrator) was to change the low color temperature numbers, could/should I also match said numbers on the high color temperature?

By the way, I am now the proud owner of a 57831 that was delivered Saturday am.

Reading through all the Mits threads, it seems like people are always recommending setting the devices connected to the tv to a progressive output. Was there ever any definite conclusion on this set's ability to properly deinterlace 1080i? I have my VIP622 sat reciever set to 1080i and of course my HD DVD player is always set this way. Most of the content I watch is in 1080i. I'm concerned that I'll have to set them down to 720P just to get the best picture.

I am in the same boat. I am still waiting on some info on why we have to set the TV/Source to 720P. Maybe no one wants to admit there is a problem with the deinterlace at 1080i with the Mits? We can't keep on setting or moving each source/channel between 720p and 1080i, that's a pain in the butt

On my 73831, I noticed that when I watch a program that is not letterbox, the shape is an hour glass. The vertical lines or edge of the picture curve. The top and bottom are 1/4 an inch wider at the top and bottom than in the center on each side. This is very noticeable when watching a program that is not letterbox.

The same is true when I watch DVD's or even when I put up the menu on the TV. A test patten also confirms that there is a vertical curve on the picture in letterbox. It irritates me that there is an hour glass shape to the picture on a $6000 set. I contacted my dealer. He called back saying that the same distortion exists on their floor model. He talked with Mitsubishi and they say this can not be corrected. Mitsubishi tech support was supposed to call me today but I have not heard from them.

Anyone else have this problem. Anything that can be done about it.

There is probably nothing that can be done. These low profile DLP's all have this.

Several weeks back I saw a link to a another site where someone was going to have their 65731 calibrated. Did anyone else see that post? I can't find it again and wanted to check back to see if he had posted his settings. Also anyone else who has had their 731 calibrated? if so can you post your settings?

The default settings on my wd73732 were GGL - 969, GRL - 1024, and GBL -790. I changed the settings a week ago to match kjohn's as posted. There was a dramatic improvement in the color accuracy on my set.

So if I am reading this correctly, it is not possible, or at least worth while, to calibrate the 731?

That is not what I wanted to hear!

I would not because without Perfect Tint it will not meet my minimum standard for a display that I will work on. There still may be some benefit, but I do not believe it is worth my fee when a display will have serious red push after calibration. You could purchase a scaler that will allow this to be corrected and then it would make sense to calibrate it, but the cost of the scaler defeats the purpose of purchasing a less expensive model. Audio of course is a whole other issue and would likely still warrant a calibration.

I am having my wd73732 calibrated Thursday afternoon. I'll give my opinion of course after it is done.

Received a phone call from Mitsubishi this morning. 7:00 a.m. in the morning as he did not know my time zone. He said that the "concave" issue is not notceable in the fifty inch sets but becomes more noticeable as the sets get bigger and it becomes most pronounced in the seventy inch sets. He authorized a repair on my 73831. However, since the two closest repair services were not open at this hour, he gave me their phone numbers. The nearest service is 60 miles away, so it may be awhile before I can get someone out here to determine whether the hour glass or "concave" problem can be fixed or whether UMR is right when he said, "There is probably nothing that can be done. These low profile DLP's all have this."

Seems like quite a few of us are having this hourglass/trapezoid effect..

Mine didn't start off like an hourglass, it was more like a trapezoid because the bottom didn't curve. As another week past I still got the trapezoid but it's getting worst. and now bottom of the screen is starting to curve. I have a curve at the bottom and a trapezoid on top, now it's just retarted. I have a tech coming (i hope) in a few days. I wonder if there are more people with this problem but haven't noticed it..

A friend of mine is getting his 57831 professionally calibrated on Friday. I also have a 57831 and was wondering if it would be a good idea to copy his settings after his set is calibrated. We are good friends so he already said it would be fine.

I know each set is slightly different, but it seems like this would get me a better picture than just trying to mess with it on my own since I know nothing about colors or how things should look. Or are sets service mode and other settings different enough where I could end up with a wacky picture? I guess I can just write down all my settings and try it, but I'm a little scared about the whole service menu thing.

I would be happy to post the settings here as well if it turns looking good on my set.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Anything you could post in this regard would be appreciated!

There will be one big difference in the two sets - and a big hole in your plan - the grey scale. Unless yours is adjusted to be very close to your friend's, copying his settings is only likely to mess with what ever quality image your set has now. IMO, your best bet is to speak to the calibrator, and see if you can work out a deal for him doing both sets on one trip. Hopefully, you and your bud will save some bucks, and you won't be stealing from your calibrationist.

I find the quote "stealing from your calibrationist" to be very interesting. I'm interested in others' opinions regarding this issue. Is there such a thing as "stealing from your calibrationist"? If I've paid for a professional calibration, is that information not therefore mine to do with and share as I wish? Or is this information somehow the intellectual property of the calibrationist? Personally, I'm conflicted on this issue.

The rights to the information depends on the aggreement between the client and the service provider. In practical terms, there is not much that a calibrator could do to not allow the data to be shared. I don't see the point in doing so anyway.

The calibration specialist provides a service. He measures a display and aligns it, hopefully to the needs of the user. The settings that are used are likely not going to yield any significant level of accuracy on another display. Some settings of them may get one "in the ballpark," and that may be useful to some people. It will not, however, replace the services of the calibration specialist. I do not see it as stealing at all. It is pointless to some degree, as the sets obviously have some variations and need specific adjustment, but it depends on what you are trying to accomplish.

I have guidelines for consumer adjustments of the sets that we sell that I provide to our clients as a starting point. Those that want to be sure of the performance of the system will pay for extra calibration services. Those that are hapy with what they have will not. Sharing the data does not replace careful measurement and alignment.

It would make more sense to visually adjust your set than to assume that someone elses settings would be better than your own.

Why would you assume this? Why do you think the factory settings differ from set to set? Why do you think the data has to be copied or transferred when the light engine or certain chassis parts are changed? And this does not even consider lamp spectral variations, which are likely greater than the differences in the electronics.

There are some general guidelines you can use and some trends that all of the sets have, but they come from the factory looking quite similar, although wrong IME. If you used the same settings on every set, you would end up with more set to set variation AND be wrong.

You would do better adjusting gray scale visually than just using someone else's settings.

This is why I do not use a flat rate for my work. Every situation is different, and every model had different degrees of calibration possible. I start with a flat rate consultation fee that includes mapping the performance of the system and doing all of the research and consultation with the client, as well as basic user education. After deciding the degree of work that is possible and relevant to the client, we proceed at an hourly rate. This also accounts for differences in the type of work to be done, such as repairs, cleaning, modifications, wiring, or wire management.

Even just doing the gray scale and user education on a 731 is a useful service.

I of course disagree on this. When a display has serious color decoder errors and you shift the white point to D65 the grays are now accurate, but the other colors can be more incorrect. I find the results to be so poor that I refuse to do it. I also do not want my name associated with a display that does not match my minimum expectations.

Thanks everyone for your input on copying my friend's calibration settings. It sounds to me like this is not a good idea, especially since I am very happy with my PQ using Smeeg's settings from the main thread. I would try and make a deal for him to calibrate mine too, but I live 5 hours away from him so that is not an option.

I guess since I am happy with it I won't worry about it anymore. I don't know if I would even be able to tell a difference if I had mine calibrated. I think it would probably look more "different" than "better" to me since there is no way to toggle between 2 custom settings to see which one I liked better.

The one thing I still want to play with is the shadow detail. I was watching Battlestar Galactica and a lot of the space scenes seemed to be too black where I think I should have seen more of the ships. I guess I will play with the contrast and brightness some to fix that.

Thanks again.

Trying to adjust settings for LOW color temp, got to the Service page that showed those, but pressing the up/down buttons on the remote didnt seem to do anything. Are there different pages showing those settings, or some other trick to this?