or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Official 2007 Mitsubishi WD-xx73X/WD-xx831 Settings & Tweaks Thread
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Official 2007 Mitsubishi WD-xx73X/WD-xx831 Settings & Tweaks Thread - Page 24

post #691 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeceli View Post

I received my WD73734 today, from Costco.com So far, I have run an HDMI cable from the Comcast digital cable box, to the TV. Plugged them both into to 110V. I hear the sound, from the TV, but the screen is not lit up, at all. No Picture.

Anyone? (I'll read through this thred, also)

Thanks.

I hope you've had a chance to read this thread, and the owner's manual. You'll need to do a reset, and if that doesn't work, call for repair or replace.
post #692 of 774
I have been reading through the posts and cannot find how to set the keystone on my 73733. I notice bowing on the bottom part of my screen, especially when a picture is not in widescreen and the side bars are on. I went into the service menu, but did not see how to set this. Can anyone help? Thank you in advance for your help!
post #693 of 774
I asked awhile back as well....no response
post #694 of 774
if it's anything like my wd-65732 than there is no way to set this that I have ever researched or experienced and i have a pretty good understanding of most all of the service menu options.
post #695 of 774
So then, this is something that will not be corrected even with professional calibration, correct? Basically, the bars flare out at the bottom. I have noticed that this makes text scrollling at the bottom of the screen look a little weird.
post #696 of 774
OK . . let me try to get a better idea what you are trying to do...

If you go into the service menu, you get the ability to move a set of ~16 crosshairs at the edge of the 16:9 screen. The next thing that happens is you get ~11 different "edge patterns" for the 4:3 picture. then you accept all that and back out of the service menu.

So....is this what you are trying to do, or have you already done this?
Has this process given you a reasonable 16:9 image?
Has this process given you a reasonable 4:3 image?

Now, for one more. If you are watching a movie that is wide screen, and you have a "letterbox" image, are you saying that the top and bottom of the image are not perfectly straight? This problem is, unfortuneately, not correctable. On my set, the last 1/4 or so of each horizonatal black bar curves outward, giving a somewhat bowtie appearance. This is an optical problem, exacerbated by the shallowness of the set, and Mitsu didn't give us any software correction for it.

And one more. I have noticed that there is an area on the left side of my screen, about 1/5 of the way in, that is "pinched" from side to side. As an object travels across the screen, it gets narrower in that area, then widens again. I haven't even tried to correct that - I doubt that it is possible.

Am I helping? Am I getting closer to understanding? I try!!
post #697 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck657 View Post

Now, for one more. If you are watching a movie that is wide screen, and you have a "letterbox" image, are you saying that the top and bottom of the image are not perfectly straight? This problem is, unfortuneately, not correctable. On my set, the last 1/4 or so of each horizonatal black bar curves outward, giving a somewhat bowtie appearance. This is an optical problem, exacerbated by the shallowness of the set, and Mitsu didn't give us any software correction for it.

This can be fixed by adding a bar horizontally behind the mirror at the top.
post #698 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hipnotiq View Post

This can be fixed by adding a bar horizontally behind the mirror at the top.

Interesting..tell me more. Would not this also correct any twisty distortion in 16:9 material? Where can I find a source for this "bar", and some idea how it is installed? (I'm sort of beginning to ignore the swoop)
post #699 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hipnotiq View Post

This can be fixed by adding a bar horizontally behind the mirror at the top.

post #700 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck657 View Post

Interesting..tell me more. Would not this also correct any twisty distortion in 16:9 material? Where can I find a source for this "bar", and some idea how it is installed? (I'm sort of beginning to ignore the swoop)

it is in their service manual. It doesnt state it is for fixing geometry issues, but I tested it one day and lo-and-behold...smiley face gone.
post #701 of 774
I just got the Costco version... used the tweaks in the first post though many settings are not available.

Anyone have this set and do anything to it?
Can the 734 firmware be flashed onto this set to get access to the other settings?


Just came from a Hitachi 57" CRT 1080i HDTV and very happy so far... day 1
post #702 of 774
Hi Everyone,
Looking from my records I replace under warranty the Lamp for our 57831 at 2,384 hours June 1, 2007, we only purchase it August of 2006. My replacement just blew tonight with 2201 hours of useage. When I spend this amound of $$$ and the lamp won't even go a full year there is something wrong. Especially since I was being told the new lamp designs were getting 5-6,000 hours before replacement.

Anyone have a good source for the 180 watt lamps? how much trouble to replace into the original housing.

Thanks to all
James
post #703 of 774
OK, got my Spyder2. Got my software and my AVS disc. Anybody HERE in this thread tried this with the Mits?

Just wanted to know what steps you used, what to really look for in the Service Menu and the results?

Before I begin, should I reset all the user controls (including Perfect Color) to default?
post #704 of 774
What are people using for settings?

Do you use the Game preset or stick with the Natural/LowTemp combo?

Do you adjust for BluRay movies vs video games?

Re: the PS3 settings:

Are you all using the RGB Full setting and the Super White On? How about the 1080P/24 option? does it work with the Y577 (basically a 57733)?

Do you choose all the available resolutions in video setup or just 1080P?

Thanks for the info in advance
post #705 of 774
So far I love the picture on this. Although the 480p projector it is replacing wasn't setting the bar very high. We got up this morning and nothing from the projector so had to get something. I wasn't going to make a rush decision but then found an open box at Fry's for about half of retail.

I bought a Samsung last Fall and like it fine but this Mits really blows that picture away.
post #706 of 774
Quick question. How do you turn off fast power on? I have cc model WD-Y65. I have had for 16 months been through two bulbs already.
post #707 of 774
I have the Y657. "Fast Power On" won't affect lamp life...it just keeps the computer brain parts turned on all the time. "Economy" or whatever mode turns the electronics almost completely off, and takes several seconds to a minute or so to power everything up.

Punch the menu key on your remtote, and look in system or something like that...you'll find it. Or you could check the manual
post #708 of 774
All xx831 owners out there. 57831, 65831, 73831. Does anyone have firmware v8.03?
Remote MENU->SETUP. Version shows on upper right as V33+ 008.03

If you have it, when did you get it from Mits?
post #709 of 774
Here's a laugh. When I got my Y657, I set the color, tint, brightness, and contrast by eye. Yesterday watched Star Wars IV and noticed the THX optimizer selection in the menu. After going through the video part ofthe optimizer, I ended up with exactly the same settings I started with!

(I know it isn't DVE or Avia or whatever, but it is a start)
post #710 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by Majeskty View Post

Hi Everyone,
Looking from my records I replace under warranty the Lamp for our 57831 at 2,384 hours June 1, 2007, we only purchase it August of 2006. My replacement just blew tonight with 2201 hours of useage. When I spend this amound of $$$ and the lamp won't even go a full year there is something wrong. Especially since I was being told the new lamp designs were getting 5-6,000 hours before replacement.

Anyone have a good source for the 180 watt lamps? how much trouble to replace into the original housing.

Thanks to all
James

WD-57831 has been down for 1-month as of today. Yesterday the repair shop called and said Mits is covering the parts (baffle-controls electrical current to the lamp?? and a new lamp) but not covering labor.

Had a extended warranty called them and they feel the TV problem was pre-existing and won't cover the labor but I could submitt it for consideration. If I had used the extended warranty in the first place they would be picking up the entire repair but give me the go around on just the labor. Here I was being told to call Mits about the early lamp failure, Mits steps up to help then I get the shaft from the extended warranty company on just a share of the expense.

So talked to the Mits, they want documentation which the repair shop has provided them and another 2-3 days. The repair shop is calling their contact to see if they can get something done directly. Hopefully here something later today.

James
post #711 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by chuck657 View Post

I have the Y657. "Fast Power On" won't affect lamp life...it just keeps the computer brain parts turned on all the time. "Economy" or whatever mode turns the electronics almost completely off, and takes several seconds to a minute or so to power everything up.

Punch the menu key on your remote, and look in system or something like that...you'll find it. Or you could check the manual

I thought i saw a post awhile back said fast power on reduces bulb life. Because its gets brighter faster?
post #712 of 774
Fast Power On has nothing to do with lamp life. The only effect could be if it makes you less likely to turn the set on or off more often.
post #713 of 774
I turned it off just to save power. There's little to watch that really demands that the TV be ready within seconds of pressing the power button.
post #714 of 774
Does the fast power on make much of a difference? That is one thing I am bugged by about this set. Otherwise this set just looks awesome.
On a different issue which scaler do you think would work better? I have a Yamaha htr-6090 that upscales to 1080p or the tv upscales it which would work better?
post #715 of 774
Ok never mind that last question. My receiver does not upconvert signals if my components are hooked up with hdmi. It only upconverts component and such. So I guess I'll stick with the tv doing the upconversion.
post #716 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by remodeler View Post

Does the fast power on make much of a difference? That is one thing I am bugged by about this set. Otherwise this set just looks awesome.

I think I remember reading somewhere that fast power on runs at like 30W while low power mode is something like 4-5W.
post #717 of 774
Fast power on makes no difference in lamp life or picture quality.

With the power cycle set to Fast, the set keeps the computer brain up and running all the time. With it set to conserve enrgy, the set only keeps the bare minimum "remote control signal detector" thingy powered up.

You could save that last couple of watts by unplugging the set....
post #718 of 774
We just bought a 73734 and I feel like the picture is just absolutely horrible. We have our DishTV hooked up to it (via HDMI) and even the HD channels are very pixilated. We have tried to watch a Blu-Ray movie and the colors were very off. (almost looked like you were watching the movie through a thermal imager or something)

I bought a DVE (blu-ray) hoping that if I fixed the colors that it would help with the "illusion" of pixilation. Well after banging my head on a wall for about 2 hours trying to get colors matched up to the film strips, I finally gave up.

I have also tried the settings that were listed in this thread and it all leaves me with a few questions.

1. I put the TV Color Temp on Low and now all the whites are extremely yellow. What can I do to fix that issue?

2. Is it possible that the thought of pixilation is just due to the settings being way off? I would be willing to pay for a professional calibration if I thought that it would take care of the picture pixilation that I think I am seeing. However, I do not want to pay $300 to have it done only to have to swap this TV with another one. If I am going to return this TV for another one, I have a limited period of time to do it.

I used to own an older 65" Mitsuibishi WS HDTV and I think it looked much better than this one has showed me so far.

How much of a difference would it make if I returned the 73" and maybe picked up the 65" Diamond?

Obviously, I am just looking for opinions on the matter

Thanks
post #719 of 774
Best Buy is willing to sell me a new 65733 for $1499. Sounds like a good deal. I have been reviewing this thread and have noted the lamp issue. What are you thoughts on an extended warranty for this set. I have always viewed them as a rip-off, but I have some concerns with the lamp. My set will only be used a few hours a day. Thoughts?

Thanks!
Quinn
post #720 of 774
Quote:
Originally Posted by croman View Post

We just bought a 73734 and I feel like the picture is just absolutely horrible. We have our DishTV hooked up to it (via HDMI) and even the HD channels are very pixilated. We have tried to watch a Blu-Ray movie and the colors were very off. (almost looked like you were watching the movie through a thermal imager or something)

I bought a DVE (blu-ray) hoping that if I fixed the colors that it would help with the "illusion" of pixilation. Well after banging my head on a wall for about 2 hours trying to get colors matched up to the film strips, I finally gave up.

I have also tried the settings that were listed in this thread and it all leaves me with a few questions.

1. I put the TV Color Temp on Low and now all the whites are extremely yellow. What can I do to fix that issue?

2. Is it possible that the thought of pixilation is just due to the settings being way off? I would be willing to pay for a professional calibration if I thought that it would take care of the picture pixilation that I think I am seeing. However, I do not want to pay $300 to have it done only to have to swap this TV with another one. If I am going to return this TV for another one, I have a limited period of time to do it.

I used to own an older 65" Mitsuibishi WS HDTV and I think it looked much better than this one has showed me so far.

How much of a difference would it make if I returned the 73" and maybe picked up the 65" Diamond?

Obviously, I am just looking for opinions on the matter

Thanks

A few suggestions... First try turning OFF all noise and digital filtering for sd material. Remember that DirecTV and Dish network are EXTREEMLY compressed and look like shitr to begin with. (Just compare a "off the air" SD local ABC
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Rear Projection Units
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Rear Projection Units › Official 2007 Mitsubishi WD-xx73X/WD-xx831 Settings & Tweaks Thread