I posted my initial impressions of the pj on the appropriate threads. Now I've had a little more time to fool with the pj. All by eye, so far.
The "eco-mode" low lamp power found under LAMP POWER in the OPTION menu is plenty bright for a 106" diagonal Da-Lite High Power screen. And changing that setting solved half the problem I saw with oversaturated colors on HD Football. A 120" diagonal High Power would be no problem for this projector. I can't speak to the unity gain issue except to look at the projectorcentral calculator and put in some hypothetical numbers.
Okay, I did, it says that on a unity gain screen and the calculator claims 18 ft.L. If we presume an eco-mode setting which gives or some dimming time on the bulb, that 18 might get to 12 pretty quickly, which won't cut it if you like bright images. I notice that the calculator indicates that at 23 ft.L the image becomes bright enough for rooms with ambient light, and a 1.3 gain screen will get you to that minimum, but remember about the dimming over time problem and the dimming caused by going to the longer throw ranges. My policy is always to have had a lot of headroom.
The calculator says that if you are in the "zone"/area of highest gain (2.8) for the High Power (120" diag) you will be watching 49 ft.L. Not bad. And you are still at 40 ft.L for a 133" diag High Power. (I sure wish by wall was big enough for that screen.) However, with a 1.3 gain screen, you are back down to 19 ft.L at 133: diag.
As an aside, you can't see waves on a pull down High Power, except on fast horizontal pans. I have both the 106" diag and the 120" diag High Power. Because the screen is retroreflective and made up of little roundish drops, no matter what angle the surface of the screen is at (within reason of course) the most light is still reflected back to the source (projector) which should be pretty close to where the viewers are.
Remember when you are using a throw calculator, they are usually based on peak lumens, which go away after about 100 hours or so and you may end up with only about 70 or 80% of what you started with, plus, if you use the longer throw, it will also be dimmer than you expect, and the use of the calibration presets will also knock now the lumens, not to mention if you want to use the eco-mode to extend bulb life. Shoot for about twice the ft.L you need, and you will probably be alright.
Hit the "Theater Room" button on the remote and "Cinema1" is your safe haven as most who have measured it say that this setting is essentially perfect according to the calibration disks commercially available, though on some material you will probably find the the colors are too strong for your tastes. "Natural" doesn't look bad either. "Cinema2" seems to make things more dramatic and contrasty, with an overall darker look.
In the "Living Room" rotation of options, "normal" is safest and "vivid" can also look good on some material. Dynamic is a little over the top.
While watching football (Chargers vs Steelers) on HD DTV, I had to make a "Favorite" setting which reduced the overall color level, as it was far too saturated for reality.
I find it very easy to find a setting that makes a source look fantastic. And I expect that, as with my other projector, I will eventually find a tweaked middle ground setting that makes everything look great. I'm just not quite there yet.
I was surprised when an unexpected night scene of the city on a game break was particularly beautiful, as it was deeper and darker than I am used to, but it was quite contrasty and punchy at the same time. So the setting that made the game looked right also may a night time city look right. So, I'm heading in the right direction.
The "eco-mode" low lamp power found under LAMP POWER in the OPTION menu is plenty bright for a 106" diagonal Da-Lite High Power screen. And changing that setting solved half the problem I saw with oversaturated colors on HD Football. A 120" diagonal High Power would be no problem for this projector. I can't speak to the unity gain issue except to look at the projectorcentral calculator and put in some hypothetical numbers.
Okay, I did, it says that on a unity gain screen and the calculator claims 18 ft.L. If we presume an eco-mode setting which gives or some dimming time on the bulb, that 18 might get to 12 pretty quickly, which won't cut it if you like bright images. I notice that the calculator indicates that at 23 ft.L the image becomes bright enough for rooms with ambient light, and a 1.3 gain screen will get you to that minimum, but remember about the dimming over time problem and the dimming caused by going to the longer throw ranges. My policy is always to have had a lot of headroom.
The calculator says that if you are in the "zone"/area of highest gain (2.8) for the High Power (120" diag) you will be watching 49 ft.L. Not bad. And you are still at 40 ft.L for a 133" diag High Power. (I sure wish by wall was big enough for that screen.) However, with a 1.3 gain screen, you are back down to 19 ft.L at 133: diag.
As an aside, you can't see waves on a pull down High Power, except on fast horizontal pans. I have both the 106" diag and the 120" diag High Power. Because the screen is retroreflective and made up of little roundish drops, no matter what angle the surface of the screen is at (within reason of course) the most light is still reflected back to the source (projector) which should be pretty close to where the viewers are.
Remember when you are using a throw calculator, they are usually based on peak lumens, which go away after about 100 hours or so and you may end up with only about 70 or 80% of what you started with, plus, if you use the longer throw, it will also be dimmer than you expect, and the use of the calibration presets will also knock now the lumens, not to mention if you want to use the eco-mode to extend bulb life. Shoot for about twice the ft.L you need, and you will probably be alright.
Hit the "Theater Room" button on the remote and "Cinema1" is your safe haven as most who have measured it say that this setting is essentially perfect according to the calibration disks commercially available, though on some material you will probably find the the colors are too strong for your tastes. "Natural" doesn't look bad either. "Cinema2" seems to make things more dramatic and contrasty, with an overall darker look.
In the "Living Room" rotation of options, "normal" is safest and "vivid" can also look good on some material. Dynamic is a little over the top.
While watching football (Chargers vs Steelers) on HD DTV, I had to make a "Favorite" setting which reduced the overall color level, as it was far too saturated for reality.
I find it very easy to find a setting that makes a source look fantastic. And I expect that, as with my other projector, I will eventually find a tweaked middle ground setting that makes everything look great. I'm just not quite there yet.
I was surprised when an unexpected night scene of the city on a game break was particularly beautiful, as it was deeper and darker than I am used to, but it was quite contrasty and punchy at the same time. So the setting that made the game looked right also may a night time city look right. So, I'm heading in the right direction.
I have had Pano smooth screen before and also have seen the 900 and I would have to say the 100 has changed the way I feel about LCD and smooth screen, If the 1000 is using smooth screen with the extra resolution I think we will all be in for a treat. 
Hopefully they will be using a good internal processor in it.
