...must...create...ReedZone...Theater...thread - Page 3

Thanks! It seems somewhat surreal to go down into the basement now - I've been planning this and dreaming about it for so long and now its finally coming together. I can't tell you how much I'm looking forward to watching my first movie. But I've read some sage advice (I forget who to credit for this) "don't install your projector if you want to finish your theater". So I'm going to push through right to the end and then put my feet up and enjoy it.

Craig.

lol. No but that's a close 2nd

Thanks!

I didn't have much time to work on the Theater this weekend, but I did get started on finishing the columns. It took a bit longer than I thought it would since I was building Deep Bass Absorbers into each column. Here are the steps I followed for those that are interested:

Step 1: built a box out of 3/4" MDF


Step 2: screw/glue 2x2 running the length of each side


Step 3: apply adhesive to 2x2's and 1" insulation board on the inside (OC703 et. al.)


Step 4: install in columns


Here I started putting on the rest of the "surround" using 3/4" MDF - this will eventually be covered by Cherry Veneer. The last step for the Bass Absorber is to put a layer of 1/4" MDF on the top of the absorber. I'll post pictures when I get that done.



This one took a bit of head-scratching as I had to incorporate an HVAC outlet into it:


Thats it for now. I'm hoping to finish the columns in the next couple of days then finish off the soffits.

Had to slow down my effort to 1 day per week so its been slow going lately. But I'm taking next week off to try and finish it up.

Anyway, here's where I'm at for those interested (pictures coming)

Here is what the column bottoms looked like after I put the cover on the Bass absorbers and the side on and got everything filled and sanded (this one actually has contact cement on it)

Then I started veneering.

here is how I did it.

Cut the veneer and "dry fit" it. Then I created a centerline on the column and on the veneer at the top and bottom. This made it easier to align.


Then I put contact cement on both the column and the veneer


I used wax paper to cover the column as I got the veneer into position. Once it was in position, I slipped the "top middle" section out and secured it to the column. Then I lifted the bottom up and secured it. This left the right and left "flaps" to push onto the corners.


Then I started "wrapping" it around the 45 deg. corners. To do this I used a piece of MDF with a slightly rounded edge and used it as a scraper. I was really worried about it before I started but it worked great. I bought the veneer (cherry) from Oakwoodveneers.com - they suggest this method for getting a good bond and it really works nicely.


The finished product (this one happened to have a supply duct - I'll be making a supply grate out of Cherry too so it all blends nicely).


Bad picture but here you can see 2 of them done on the left side of the Theater

I did the light trays in much the same way - blatant rip-off of SandmanX's tray as most of you will know

I put the tray together on my workbench and then did a 1/4" radius with my router to get the rounded edge.

I didn't document the process here as its been done in other places. But I basically secured everything but the corner joints. Then I cut them and cemented them last to get a nice seam on the bottom corners.

Equipment rack arrived. Its a Raxxess model - same quality and a lot cheaper than MA (imho)
www.raxxess.com. I got the smoked glass door to go with it. Not sure how I'm going to finish around it yet - likely with a cherry frame to match the bar. I may even build a custom door for it and put the current door on the back (or sell it on the 'bay).

Speakers also arrived (today in fact).

Monitor Audio:
Gold Reference 60's (L/R)
Gold Reference LCR (Center)
Gold Reference FX (side surr)
Gold Reference CP in-wall (rear surr)

more coming soon!

Thanks guys! I've never done it before so I was pretty worried about getting it right. I'm pretty happy so far - only have another 8' or so of light tray left to do and I'm "out of the woods". Then on to finishing.

I've been reading a lot about staining wood - its definitely an art form. Cherry (of course) is particularly challenging it seems. I can't get a nice consistent finish without blotching on my test pieces. So far I've tried:

1. Sand / stain only
2. wet with water to open the pores / de-whisker / stain
3. use pre-stain conditioner

So far nothing is really working great. Any recommendations guys? I think I'll try some Gel stain and see if that helps.

Btw, here's a great book on wood finishing

This particular chunk of veneer has been treated with pre-stain wood conditioner. So far the best result I've gotten is the far right (bottom). I'm trying to match it to the cherry cabinets I'm putting in the bar and HT.

The stain will be going on the columns and light tray (of course), on the front of the stage, and on the raised paneling which will be running around the perimeter of the room up to 3' (like wainscoting). The inside of the "wainscoting" will be black speaker cloth which covers the acoustic treatments.

Here is the rest of the color scheme. The hardwood will be adjacent to the theater in the bar area. The striped cloth will be on the walls from the top of the paneling to the underside of the soffit. The carpet is underneath. The paint chip is for the ceiling and inside of the light tray (I may go darker with this - haven't decided yet).

Looking at the picture of the stains above they don't appear to match - must be the camera. In fact they look very nice together.

My wife is letting me break in the GR 60's in the family room (I promised her built-ins when the HT is done ). Even though they are in a crappy room from an acoustic standpoint and clearly "tight" until broken in, they still sound unbelievable. Can't wait to get them in the HT.

I used 2x4 to do the rough framing around the screen. Then I put 2x2 around the inside perimeter of the rough frame. This picture may help:



In that picture you can see the custom-built 2.35 frame for my screen fabric (I'm using AT SMX material). To build that I "laminated" 3 1x2's for each of the 4 sections of the frame. On the second "row" of the lamination, I left gaps for a single 1x2 to run from top to bottom (these are painted black in the picture so a bit hard to see). I used lag bolts and wingnuts to put everything together (it can easily be disassembled). Its incredibly rigid and strong when assembled - more than I thought it would be actually. Here is a picture which might help - notice the 3 "layers".



The custom frame I built will sit inside the rough 2x4 framing and the perimeter (in other words the 1x2) will sit against the inside 2x2 perimeter (you can see this "lip" in the picture above). I'm going to staple the screen fabric to the FRONT of the frame I built and put velcro on it. The mating piece of velcro goes on back of the 2x2's running around the perimeter of the "rough" 2x4 frame. Not sure if this makes sense - its hard to describe.

Its not actually. Its called "BMC" board from Ottawa Fibre Inc. (OFI). The faced stuff is called "FSK".

I'm using 2" on the screen wall and 1" pretty much everywhere else.

I had problems sourcing any of the "usual suspects" for wall treatments in my area. This material from OFI is much cheaper, well represented locally (and nationally as far as I know) and has basically the same acoustic properties as OC703. BPape approved it for use in my application (he did my acoustic design). For any Canadians, particularly in the GTA, this is the way to go - WAY cheaper than the other alternatives and easy to get. Its also very easy to work with. Just spray on some 3M 77 glue and slap it on.

Some links:
http://www.ofigroup.com/products/can...-factsheet.pdf
http://www.ofigroup.com/products/can...-factsheet.pdf

They are Lightolier cans/trims and they have a "powdery" black finish on them right from the factory. I ordered them that way and I'm really happy with the way they look. So to answer your question, I won't be painting them.


Thanks!!

Craig.

Hey Stu. Yes, I have been experimenting quite a bit with washcoats - I haven't ventured into mixing my own but I've been trying different ways of applying the Minwax wood conditioner. I've been reading Bob Flexner's book, "Understanding Wood Finishing". In it, he says that the manufacturers directions are actually wrong and to leave the washcoat to completely dry before finishing vs. what they recommend which is to put the stain on within 2 hrs. of the washcoat. I've tried it both ways and I think maybe Bob is right. That said, I'm still not completely thrilled with the result.

I've also had a bit of success with damping the wood with water to raise the grain then "de-whiskering" it with 220 sandpaper prior to staining. I'm just a bit worried about applying that method on a large project as it seems very fussy about how "wet" it is and I'm not sure I can be consistent when doing large areas.

Last thing I'm going to try is Minwax Gel Stain - Flexner's recommendation for staining Cherry (or any wood that takes stain unevenly). I've never tried Gel stain but apparently it solves the "blotching" problem for woods that tend to take stain unevenly (e.g., Pine, cherry, etc...) because the pigements are absorbed more evenly. Anyway, I'll give it a shot and post my results.

I looked at what he recommends for Poplar - he is saying to use a "dye" stain. So you might want to check that out if you haven't already.

Craig.

Great link, thanks Andy.

Thanks!
I can go as big as 127"W x 54"H 2.35 AR. I will likely mask it down a bit though depending on what the light output of my projector looks like (I'm getting a JVC RS-1).

Hey Bryan, good to hear from you! Thanks for the kind words.

I can't wait to get my speakers in there so I can appreciate the results of your brilliant acoustic design!

Btw, I jumped on the Galaxy CM-140 SPL meter buy on the "other" forum. So when I get it everything done I can send you some results and we can see how it performs.

I also have a few "minor" questions for you (you should have known that would happen if you posted in my thread, right ):

1. Unfortunately I can't do the 4' high 1" FSK on the back left hand side (as you face the screen). The reason is the cabinets at the back of the room on that side are 1" wider than they were supposed be. So if I do the FSK, it will run into the cabinet door. I have about 1/4" to work with. would peg-board or something like that help out in that area? or should I just leave it? On the flip side, the good news is that I can get 2" unfaced on the "alcove" wall above the cabinet

2. I'm trying to figure out where to put my rear channels. I can put them in the soffits along the side walls at the back corner, or in the rear walls (about 6" from the corners, same height as the sides). Does it make any difference?

3. Subs - I have access to a 2nd identical sub (B&W ASW1000). I was going to put the first one in the front right corner and the 2nd one in the left right corner. Any reason I should, or should not do this? any other guidelines on initial sub placement?

Thanks Bryan!!