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JL Audio Fathom 13" Sub - Page 218

post #6511 of 6759
I am not sure if it's a good idea to put a speaker on top of a violently shaking sub...
post #6512 of 6759
Quote:
Originally Posted by petetherock View Post

I am not sure if it's a good idea to put a speaker on top of a violently shaking sub...

I agree plus I wouldn't want to scratch the finish.
post #6513 of 6759
Quote:
Originally Posted by petetherock View Post

I am not sure if it's a good idea to put a speaker on top of a violently shaking sub...

I agree plus I wouldn't want to scratch the finish.
post #6514 of 6759
I have a couple questions on the F113: Does one of them have enough output for music/HT use in a 3000 CF room with 2 openings? Also, the XLR input looks different from others I have seen. Does it use a standard balanced cable? If I'm using it with a pre/pro with XT32, how do you use the room correction it in F113? Should the feature be turned off in the sub?

TIA for any help!!!
post #6515 of 6759
Ok. I won't put the speaker on it. What about the choice of a 3rd 113 vs a 212?
post #6516 of 6759
Quote:
Originally Posted by TL5 View Post

I have a couple questions on the F113: Does one of them have enough output for music/HT use in a 3000 CF room with 2 openings? Also, the XLR input looks different from others I have seen. Does it use a standard balanced cable? If I'm using it with a pre/pro with XT32, how do you use the room correction it in F113? Should the feature be turned off in the sub?

TIA for any help!!!

Can't answer if one would be enough for you, everyone has different goals. That said, one should be enough for most people.

The XLR port on the back takes a standard balanced cable. It's a combo jack that can also take a 1/4" TRS plug, so it looks a little different.

Generally accepted best practice for EQ is to run ARO first to address the largest peak in the room, then run XT32 as normal to handle the rest.

The manual is online and goes into more detail: http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/f113_MAN.pdf?1305783847
post #6517 of 6759
^^^^ Thank you!
post #6518 of 6759
Another question....I downloaded the manual for the F112/F113 and see there is a switch for the master volume - the choices are: "Reference" or "Variable". For calibration and use with a Marantz pre/pro with XT32, which setting would I choose on the JL? I would think "variable", but the manual says "Reference" if you are using the pre/pro to control the volume. Can someone explain please?

Thanks!!!
post #6519 of 6759
Quote:
Originally Posted by TL5 View Post

Another question....I downloaded the manual for the F112/F113 and see there is a switch for the master volume - the choices are: "Reference" or "Variable". For calibration and use with a Marantz pre/pro with XT32, which setting would I choose on the JL? I would think "variable", but the manual says "Reference" if you are using the pre/pro to control the volume. Can someone explain please?

Thanks!!!

I've used variable also but I'm curious if anyone has used reference too.
post #6520 of 6759
I use "variable" on my F 113 and Denon 4520, the cousin of your Marantz.
post #6521 of 6759
You have to use variable to turn it down enough for xt32....if you use reference the adjustment in xt32 will be -12 which is a no no...l
post #6522 of 6759
^^^^^ Thanks guys!
post #6523 of 6759
Pretty excited - my satin black F113 arrives this week! Any tips on where the initial settings for the controls should be to calibrate with XT32?
post #6524 of 6759
Quote:
Originally Posted by TL5 View Post

Pretty excited - my satin black F113 arrives this week! Any tips on where the initial settings for the controls should be to calibrate with XT32?

Run the sub ARO, then run XT32. For XT32, you have to put the volume at variable and turn it down to 75 db, audyssey will assist with that. In my case it was way down, below 9 o'clock
post #6525 of 6759
^^^ Thanks. Then set the LP filter to off, correct?
post #6526 of 6759
Quote:
Originally Posted by TL5 View Post

^^^ Thanks. Then set the LP filter to off, correct?

Yes, and phase to zero and polarity at zero. Audyssey will set those.
post #6527 of 6759
Get the 212
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Holland2 View Post

Ok. I won't put the speaker on it. What about the choice of a 3rd 113 vs a 212?
it suppose to be even better than the F113
post #6528 of 6759

Where can I get a 12 AWG power cord for the Fathom F113? My stock power cord was cut :(

post #6529 of 6759
You'll have a hard time finding a generic 12 gauge power cord with a 15 amp IEC connector, I believe the F113 comes with a 14 gauge cord. I'm sure there are plenty of specialty power cords available that are 12 or larger.

For my F112 I went with the DIY Belden 83803 design which uses 12 gauge, teflon-jacketed fire alarm cable (works great, but stiff). I got a great deal by the foot on that cable through ebay (seems to be gone now), but you can still get it through Parts Express or Zebracable at a higher price. Unfortunately you're stuck paying a premium for most of the parts so it gets a little pricey for a DIY design.
post #6530 of 6759
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View PostYou'll have a hard time finding a generic 12 gauge power cord with a 15 amp IEC connector, I believe the F113 comes with a 14 gauge cord. I'm sure there are plenty of specialty power cords available that are 12 or larger.

For my F112 I went with the DIY Belden 83803 design which uses 12 gauge, teflon-jacketed fire alarm cable (works great, but stiff). I got a great deal by the foot on that cable through ebay (seems to be gone now), but you can still get it through Parts Express or Zebracable at a higher price. Unfortunately you're stuck paying a premium for most of the parts so it gets a little pricey for a DIY design.

I would be concerned about making a mistake designing a power cord myself!

post #6531 of 6759
Understandable. As I said, there are tons of options in the high-end cable market, but I try to steer clear of that. You might consider shopping internet-direct for something reasonably priced, such as from Emotiva (http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/interconnects/products/xiec) or Wyred 4 Sound (http://www.wyred4sound.com/webapps/category/74030/117839/47115). I feel both of these companies offer good value and quality products (and both are at least 12 gauge designs). Although in the end, if 14 gauge is good enough for JL Audio to include with the sub, then I doubt there's much to be gained by sizing up, especially if the cable is relatively short.
post #6532 of 6759
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View PostUnderstandable. As I said, there are tons of options in the high-end cable market, but I try to steer clear of that. You might consider shopping internet-direct for something reasonably priced, such as from Emotiva (http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/interconnects/products/xiec) or Wyred 4 Sound (http://www.wyred4sound.com/webapps/category/74030/117839/47115). I feel both of these companies offer good value and quality products (and both are at least 12 gauge designs). Although in the end, if 14 gauge is good enough for JL Audio to include with the sub, then I doubt there's much to be gained by sizing up, especially if the cable is relatively short.

Ouch $100 for a power cord!  

 

JL Audio includes 12AWG power cords, that are probably $10 each!

post #6533 of 6759
OK, thought I had read it was 14 gauge for both the F112 (mine definitely was) and F113. Even according to JL, it's 14 for the F113:
Quote:
Originally Posted by msmith_JL View Post


Our Fathom power cord is a 3-prong, 14 AWG and it's 6 ft. long.


I cannot really recommend that you use less than that... it's part of our UL certification. But, in your house, you're free to try anything and see if it works.

If you buy a generic 12 gauge power cord (UL rated, mind you) then I believe it MUST have a 20 amp IEC connector (this is a different pin configuration, referred to as C19). BUT, I do not think they use 20 amp IEC connectors on the F113 (every photo I can find shows a 15 amp connection), so I would suggest you check your old cord again to be sure. You can get a standard generic 14 gauge IEC (that's a C13 pin configuration) power cord practically anywhere for about $10 (amazon has tons of them). If you in fact have a 12AWG, JL Audio-supplied cable (seems doubtful), then why not order one from them? You're simply not going to find a cheap 12 AWG cable with a C13 IEC connector that's worth buying (there is some junk from China on ebay, but I would never buy from there). Be sure to buy from a trusted vendor (like monoprice).
post #6534 of 6759
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

Understandable. As I said, there are tons of options in the high-end cable market, but I try to steer clear of that. You might consider shopping internet-direct for something reasonably priced, such as from Emotiva (http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/interconnects/products/xiec) or Wyred 4 Sound (http://www.wyred4sound.com/webapps/category/74030/117839/47115). I feel both of these companies offer good value and quality products (and both are at least 12 gauge designs). Although in the end, if 14 gauge is good enough for JL Audio to include with the sub, then I doubt there's much to be gained by sizing up, especially if the cable is relatively short.

The power cables that came with both of my F113's were 12 gauge. When I needed a longer cable and had trouble finding 12 gauge, I called JL and they confirmed that a 14 gauge cable for a 12' run was fine. Found one at Monoprice for around $15 and have had no issues.
post #6535 of 6759
Alright, good to know. They must have special ordered 12 AWG C13 cables for the F113. Guess they didn't offer to sell you one?

I recall people complaining that the F112 was "only" 14 AWG, but as any electrician will tell you, the voltage drop on anything less than 50 feet is pretty minimal, even when drawing relatively high current. The large toroid in the Fathom should take care of any voltage sags resulting from low gauge wire anyway. But given the Fathom's thirst for power, I wanted to have a little fun and build my own in 12 gauge. A DIY power cable is about the simplest electrical project you can undertake, just be sure to triple check your connections against another power cable before plugging in. All you need is a basic multimeter and instructions: http://diyaudioprojects.com/Power/diyMains/
post #6536 of 6759
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View PostAlright, good to know. They must have special ordered 12 AWG C13 cables for the F113. Guess they didn't offer to sell you one?  I recall people complaining that the F112 was "only" 14 AWG, but as any electrician will tell you, the voltage drop on anything less than 50 feet is pretty minimal, even when drawing relatively high current. The large toroid in the Fathom should take care of any voltage sags resulting from low gauge wire anyway. But given the Fathom's thirst for power, I wanted to have a little fun and build my own in 12 gauge. A DIY power cable is about the simplest electrical project you can undertake, just be sure to triple check your connections against another power cable before plugging in. All you need is a basic multimeter and instructions: http://diyaudioprojects.com/Power/diyMains/

Thank you, A six foot DIY power cord ends up costing over $100! Might as well buy it from Emotiva :)

post #6537 of 6759
Yes, I did already give the disclaimer that this can potentially be a relatively expensive DIY project. However, it only cost me about $50 for a 5ft cable after some careful shopping (and perhaps some luck). wink.gif

Personally, I think a $3000+ subwoofer deserves something a little nicer than a $10 stock power cord. But, whatever makes you happy!
post #6538 of 6759
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View PostYes, I did already give the disclaimer that this can potentially be a relatively expensive DIY project. However, it only cost me about $50 for a 5ft cable after some careful shopping (and perhaps some luck). wink.gif
Personally, I think a $3000+ subwoofer deserves something a little nicer than a $10 stock power cord. But, whatever makes you happy!

I am cool with regular power cords :) I never paid anything near to that price more like $2,000

post #6539 of 6759
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvidHiker View Post

Personally, I think a $3000+ subwoofer deserves something a little nicer than a $10 stock power cord. But, whatever makes you happy!
You're absolutely correct! It NEEDS a Magic Mushroom:
Quote:
Magic Mushroom power 7m

Sound: Neutral.

Magic Mushroom is liquid smooth, neutral, uncolored and powerful while being laid-back and enjoyable.

Magic Mushroom takes White Beach to a higher level. The bass is bigger, fuller and more powerful, but it's still quicker and more textured with more information! It's also calmer and more laid-back which reduces listening fatigue.

Magic Mushroom uses our 3-stage Astral crystal formula, it will lift you up into a relaxing out of body state so you can enjoy music like never before.



Performance price: $100,000
Factory Direct price: $50,000
Introductory offer: $7,000

Note: 1 month building time

Testimonial

Two weeks ago today that the cable is plugged. Magic mushroom. truly magical! I use the amp (Manley Stingray). More than one category higher quality! very, very, very close to the live music! - Peter (Hungary)

Features

7 meter long
Weight: 7 kg
5x 13awg solid core copper conductors
100% coverage thick aluminum shield
3-stage Astral Crystal Formula
Liquification cleaning
Whitewood tree fibers
Furutech FI-11M (Cu) plugs

It's that "relaxing out of body state so you can enjoy the music like never before" that makes this power cord so amazing. It's actually worth the $100,000 price tag, but at the $7,000 introductory price, your sub deserves one!

http://www.coconut-audio.com/power/multi.htm#magic

But whatever makes you happy. rolleyes.gif

Craig

PS. I forgot to mention that it uses their proprietary "Rattlesnake Skin" cable which has the snake oil built right in!
post #6540 of 6759
I purchased one of those, but the constant levitating during bass passages made me nauseous so I had to sell it at a loss frown.gif
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