JL Audio Fathom 13" Sub - Page 219

I love it that is some Mushroom :)

Why? The power cord shipped with the JL subwoofers is a "commodity" cord and I'm confident that JL wouldn't ship OEM cords that would limit performance. If you want a nicer looking cord, I get it, but it won't alter the performance of the sub.

OHhhhhhh.... a Magic Mushroom would!

Are you proposing a Double Blind test of Magic Mushrooms? I suppose they might "color" the sound

If I read it right, the cord is $7,000 for a seven-foot specimen.

Those are the right values to hang yourself physically and metaphorically...

Seriously, craig? I don't think I was being over zealous WRT upgrading my equipment for a small added cost and to fullfill a DIY hobby. I take offense that you would compare it with that garbage. That's pretty obnoxious, man. Idiotic, actually.
Based on your system I'm sure plenty of skeptics would point fingers at you as well .

To each their own, if it makes you happy to have an expensive power cord more power to you it's your money.

 

Just order cords from JL Audio, $15 (3C-12AWG)

 

That will work for me :)

Honestly, I have four Wyred4Sound power cables, nice beefy mothers, that I actually received at no-cost for a variety of reasons. I use them because I have them, but they don't impart any sonic difference than stock cables.

I've yet to see an explanation how the last three or five feet of power cord can mitigate or tune 10 miles of plant, street, and house electrical cabling, none of which is concerned too much with the nuanced requirements of high end audio.

I could be wrong, but I don't see (hear) it.

Nice free I like it, agreed 100%, I don't think electricity companies care about high end audio, only about profits, so they will use the cheapest to get the job done!

I've made no claims WRT sound quality, and yes, I would have to agree that I've never been able to hear any improvements by swapping out power cable. Of course, I've never really tried to A/B them, but it's nearly impossible to come to any reliable conclusion in this situation anyway.

I assembled my cable primarily for cosmetic reasons (and for a little fun), but I figured it can't hurt to have a little extra copper between the sub and the wall (which is in fact wired with 14 AWG). If JL is supplying 12 AWG cables with 15AMP IEC connectors on them, then clearly they are thinking in this direction as well. The DIY cable has the added benefits of a double shield and teflon dielectric. Again, debatable if this could be audible, but these things don't concern me.

That site is a satirical farce. IOW, it's a JOKE! If you take offense to that, you have some issues.

And, "based on my system..." what??? I don't have any snakeoil in my system. Just solid, high performance stuff. I buy all my cables from Monoprice or BJC. No snakeoil there. I've never had anyone point any fingers at my system and say anything negative.

Here's a shot comparing the Seaton Submersive HP PC to the PC that came with my JL Audio F112's:



Both of these power cords end being BEHIND the subwoofers, so even the aesthetics wouldn't make any difference,(unless I specifically lead visitors over to the subs, pulled them out away from the wall and specifically showed them the power cables. I guess, if that's what you're into, you have far different priorities than I do. I would rather turn my system on and let people *hear* it than look at the back of my subs to see the power cords.

Whatever, enjoy your power cord mythology. See ya.

Craig

Ok, you really cleared things up there, and apparently you've seen my system. Brilliant!

If what you posted was not intended as mockery of building a nice power cable, then I'm afraid your words were lacking. I gave no indication of my purposes or expectations when building a power cable, and yet you have very clearly decided that I'm somehow entrenched in the audio tweaker camp. Just plain ignorant and rude.

Interesting thickness difference!

What do you think about staking the subs two JL F113 on top of each other? Would that create a F213!

It would, but I would much rather have 2 F113's than a single F213.
Edited by craig john - 4/14/13 at 7:13pm

If that difference is the insulation it's moot. And if it's a heavier wire gauge than required for the current draw of the amp it's also moot. They'll both excite the same room modes, doing nothing to improve the in-room response. Two subs tend to work best when placed as far apart as possible, which smooths room modes.

Toole says to place them mid point of walls rather than as far apart from each others!

Welti, (Toole's protege'), says that, in a rectangular, sealed room, the flattest FR will be attained with mid-wall positions. However, those positions will not provide the best room reinforcement of the bass.
http://www.harman.com/EN-US/OurCompany/Innovation/Documents/White%20Papers/multsubs.pdf

More importantly, those placements are only valid if the subs are Bass Managed and receiving an identical signal... AND if the room is a symmetrical rectangle and sealed.

If your room is anything other than a completely sealed rectangle, Bill's recommendation trumps Welti/Toole.

Craig

My room is not a perfect rectangle unfortunately, each subs receive an identical signal since I use a Y XLR to fed them, so are you saying it is best that I place them each in a corner of each room diagonally opposed?

Place the first sub where it gives the best result at the LP. Place the second where it gives the best smoothing of room modes at the LP. Room response measuring tools are a must if you want to get the best possible result.

LP? The crawling around method?

LP = Listening Position. You can do the sub crawl with one sub and get a good result, but the purpose of a second sub is flattening of room modes, and to flatten them you must be able to see them on a chart and then see the effect of various placements of the second sub. That requires measuring the room response. If you can't do so then placing the second sub as far as possible from the first is as good a placement method as any.

Ok so should I buy XTZ Pro II , when my room was calibrated the so called expert did'nt even move the subs to see if I had the best bass!

Had the same experience with the self proclaimed "expert" that "calibrated" my setup. I have mine between the fronts and center under the screen.

I have an Anthem D2v with ARC and used the quick measure test to get the best response. I have heard good things about the Dayton Mic and REW for setup as well.

I just bit the bullet and joined the JL Audio club and purchased an F113, I'm moving up from a SVS PB13 Ultra, just wondering if any fellow members use the f113 as a stand for their centre speaker?

I'm in the middle of decorating my main room and i'm looking to cut down on as much space as possible, got to keep the other half happy!

Welcome to the club!

I've just ordered one of those I'm curious to see how they work.

Let us know!

What is the general opinion on running a Velo SMS1 with the fathoms, is it a worthy addition on top of ARO, is it needed?

When I had a pair of F112's, the SMS-1 was quite helpful in dialing them in. ARO is a single band of EQ which addresses the single worst resonance in the room. Most rooms have more than one resonance. The SMS-1 provides 8 bands of EQ with adjustable center frequencies, levels and Q's, (filter width). It also allows you to "see" your response, which is extremely helpful for subwoofer placement, even before you run the EQ. It has a bunch of other functions and feature as well.

Craig