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JL Audio Fathom 13" Sub - Page 223

post #6661 of 6764
I have my two amplifiers and dual F113's on a dedicated 20A line. It made a huge difference in dynamics. If the lights are dimming, cut the lights off! biggrin.gif
post #6662 of 6764
I agree, a dedicated 20A line seems like a requirement for a dual-F113 system.
post #6663 of 6764
I can't see a class D amp pull out that much current. I was thinking a single F113 pulls out maybe 8-9 amps MAX on FULL power.
post #6664 of 6764
I've had dual F113s plus all my lights on one 15amp circuit without any problems. I've moved on to larger subs AMD have since had to upgrade to a dedicated 20amp circuit :-(
post #6665 of 6764
My subs are in a 15 amp line, the three CA-M600 are on a 20 amp line and the Ca-5200 and SSP-800 on an other 20 amp line, all lights are off so no flickering smile.gif
post #6666 of 6764
Hello,

I have a problem with my NEW fathom f113, ARO is not engaging after i reboot or when i turned off the fathom from the back panel or unplugged the cable and restart the fathom. ARO button should turn green but its not. Normally after running ARO, it should be saved somewhere inside. I have 2 fathoms, the other one is working fine.

I dont want to re run ARO everytime i turn on the fathom. This is not good.

I sent an email to Barry of JL Audio more than 3 wks now but no response to my problem. I am thinking now for a refund. I am using anthem d2v3d as pre pro.

Is there any chance my pre pro has something to do with running and auto saving of ARO?
Thanks for any help.
Edited by pinoy ako - 8/13/13 at 3:02am
post #6667 of 6764
If you purchased from an authorized dealer and are not receiving proper tech support, I think JL Audio would like to know. A simple phone call to them directly would no doubt solve your problem.

Your pre/pro is not likely to blame.
post #6668 of 6764
Thanks for the reply. My dealer contacted JL Audio and they will replace the processor board. Waiting mode for now.
post #6669 of 6764
Hi,
Newb question i guess.
I would like to buy two f113s. I have Integra DHC 80.3 pre/pro which has two outputs for two subs.
Here is processing it does:
http://www.integrahometheater.com/model.cfm?m=DHC-80.3&class=Preamplifier&p=f


PROCE SSING:

THX Processing Modes & Loudness Plus
Audyssey Room Correction & Calibration MultEQ XT32
Audyssey Sub EQ HT
Audyssey MultEQ Pro / Installer Ready
Audyssey Dynamic EQ & Dynamic Volume


My question is: do i use this Integra stuff with the f113 ARO features? Do i use both at same time (Integra and f113) or just one or the other?

thanks
post #6670 of 6764
Can someone PM me a good price for two new f113s?
thanks
post #6671 of 6764
Quote:
Originally Posted by bao01 View Post

Hi,
Newb question i guess.
I would like to buy two f113s. I have Integra DHC 80.3 pre/pro which has two outputs for two subs.
Here is processing it does:
http://www.integrahometheater.com/model.cfm?m=DHC-80.3&class=Preamplifier&p=f


PROCE SSING:

THX Processing Modes & Loudness Plus
Audyssey Room Correction & Calibration MultEQ XT32
Audyssey Sub EQ HT
Audyssey MultEQ Pro / Installer Ready
Audyssey Dynamic EQ & Dynamic Volume


My question is: do i use this Integra stuff with the f113 ARO features? Do i use both at same time (Integra and f113) or just one or the other?

thanks
ARO first then whatever flavor of auto-EQ you have.
post #6672 of 6764
Quote:
Originally Posted by petetherock View Post

ARO first then whatever flavor of auto-EQ you have.

Thank you.
post #6673 of 6764
Quote:
Originally Posted by bao01 View Post

Hi,
Newb question i guess.
I would like to buy two f113s. I have Integra DHC 80.3 pre/pro which has two outputs for two subs.
Here is processing it does:
http://www.integrahometheater.com/model.cfm?m=DHC-80.3&class=Preamplifier&p=f


PROCE SSING:

THX Processing Modes & Loudness Plus
Audyssey Room Correction & Calibration MultEQ XT32
Audyssey Sub EQ HT
Audyssey MultEQ Pro / Installer Ready
Audyssey Dynamic EQ & Dynamic Volume


My question is: do i use this Integra stuff with the f113 ARO features? Do i use both at same time (Integra and f113) or just one or the other?

thanks

I wouldn't bother with ARO, especially if you are going to use the 2 subwoofer outputs. ARO will run on each sub individually. That won't be very helpful for Audyssey XT32 because it EQ's the combined response of both subs, (it sets level and distance independently for each sub, but the EQ is applied equally to both subs.)

If you want to use ARO before running Audyssey, set them up so they are basically equidistant to the listening position and then run them off of one subwoofer output in Master/Slave mode. Then run ARO on the Master, (which will measure and EQ the combined output.) Then run Audyssey on top of that. You won't get the independent level and distance settings, but that's is not a real big deal, especially if you've set them up to be equidistant to the listening position.

If you have one big peak in the response, pre-Audyssey, I suggest the second method above. ARO will cut that peak and give Audyssey a much easier curve to correct.

Craig
post #6674 of 6764
Thanks Craig.

Wow - this stuff is getting complicated but i kind of like it. Lots to learn.

Today I just got off phone after buying TWO f113s. I am sooooo excited. smile.gif
I should be able to pick up next week and i will post how the integration with Integra DHC 80.3 goes.

thanks again !
this forum is a great resource
post #6675 of 6764
BTW, your system pics are unreal. Watching action/sci-fi movies must be amazing.
post #6676 of 6764
Quote:
Originally Posted by bao01 View Post

BTW, your system pics are unreal. Watching action/sci-fi movies must be amazing.

Thank you. smile.gif

I have owned JL subs and they are some incredible performers. The sound quality JL gets out of the box size they utilize is nothing short of spectacular. You will LOVE the sound quality you get.

What speakers and amps are you pairing the JL subs with?

Craig
post #6677 of 6764
Parasound HALO A 51 which is a 5 ch amp:
http://www.parasound.com/halo/a51.php

Continuous power output:
250 watts RMS x 5, 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 8 Ω, all channels driven
400 watts RMS x 5, 20 Hz - 20 kHz, 4 Ω, all channels driven

Current capacity:
60 amperes peak per channel

Krell KAV-300i
An integrated pre/amp from mid 1990s. 2 ch, about 150 wpc.

Right now, I only have front L and R speakers - they are SUPER OLD !!! (too embarrassed to mention): Paradigm 7se from 1987.
They were actually made in Canada way back then - cabinets and all. Shows how much the world has changed.

So the plan is KEF Ref 205/2 for front, KEF Ref center and then KEF R series surrounds.

It's a work in progress frown.gif

I am 60/40 movies/music. I like dub step (Bassnectar, Nero), NIN, Massive Attack, some acoustical (Elliot Smith - RIP, Sarah Mclaughlin, Pumpkins). I like to listen really loud sometimes.
I really love sci-fi movies (just watched Oblivion - thought it was good).

Room is quite big: 30 x 22 x 9 - it has carpet.

I used to read Stereophile when i was much younger - a LONG time ago. Now i have the bug again. I bought the TV, Halo and Integra about a year ago. It has always been my dream to have B&W 800 series speakers with the big black bulge on top - i think they look really cool. But now i think KEF Ref look even bettter - GLOSS CHERY eek.gif

thanks
post #6678 of 6764
I cant wait until next week when i bring home the two f113s - KA BOOOOOM smile.gif
post #6679 of 6764
Quote:
Originally Posted by bao01 View Post

I cant wait until next week when i bring home the two f113s - KA BOOOOOM smile.gif

Get some help to unpack them and position them. I placed this under the feet and it works great they can just slide on the marble!
http://magicsliders.com/store/60-mm-2-3-8-concave.html
post #6680 of 6764
Good idea - they are really heavy. I have to take them from back of Tundra to upstairs so that will be a pain. Once upstairs, i have carpet so maybe if i put them on cardboard i can slide them around on the carpet. I might go buy the $10 wood dollies at Harbor Freight - that might be easiest.

http://www.harborfreight.com/material-handling/dollies.html
post #6681 of 6764
Anyone tested the F113 up against the Paradigm sub 1, just wondering if the sub 1 is a big step up?
post #6682 of 6764
Long Term F113 Reliability?

I'm hoping this is just a one off, but considering the few issues I've had early on into an F113's ownership and another issue recently into the 4yr period, I am starting to lose major confidence in the longer term reliability of these subs!!

Several weeks ago (middle Aug), my long standing F113 experienced an issue with what appears to be the electronics. On any input signal the sub would exhibit crackling noises and the sound was attenuated substantially. This would also occur with the built-in test tone. Long story short my Dealer spoke to the Canadian distributer, Gemsen, and created an RMA. They worked with JL Audio and determined that the electronics will need to be replaced.

It is now Oct and after 5 LONG weeks the sub is still in the shop!! I've read the turnaround to JL directly is faster so this does not seem to be the case up here in the north. After receiving the necessary parts, Gemsen is doing the repair and hopefully everything is put back in good order with the same quality standards control as JL.

But after experiencing several issues with these subs, and reading of users that have had issues with the electronics (some even paying out of warranty upwards of >$900) , I'm not so certain of the longer term reliability of these subs. Again, it may just be another one off and hopefully so as I got two of these to contend with!!

Will update as soon as everything is resolved.
post #6683 of 6764
Quote:
Originally Posted by scanido View Post

Long Term F113 Reliability?I'm hoping this is just a one off, but considering the few issues I've had early on into an F113's ownership and another issue recently into the 4yr period, I am starting to lose major confidence in the longer term reliability of these subs!! Several weeks ago (middle Aug), my long standing F113 experienced an issue with what appears to be the electronics. On any input signal the sub would exhibit crackling noises and the sound was attenuated substantially. This would also occur with the built-in test tone. Long story short my Dealer spoke to the Canadian distributer, Gemsen, and created an RMA. They worked with JL Audio and determined that the electronics will need to be replaced. It is now Oct and after 5 LONG weeks the sub is still in the shop!! I've read the turnaround to JL directly is faster so this does not seem to be the case up here in the north. After receiving the necessary parts, Gemsen is doing the repair and hopefully everything is put back in good order with the same quality standards control as JL. But after experiencing several issues with these subs, and reading of users that have had issues with the electronics (some even paying out of warranty upwards of >$900) , I'm not so certain of the longer term reliability of these subs. Again, it may just be another one off and hopefully so as I got two of these to contend with!! Will update as soon as everything is resolved.

Sorry to hear about your troubles, my two JL AUDIO SUBS one over five years old the other three years old have been working flawlessly! Let's hope it continues these things are beats to move or transport!

I think I would just buy an HSU or other internet sub rather than pay $900 to repair the sub
post #6684 of 6764
Is the Satin Finish being reintroduced for the F113's?

I notice on JLs site they are no longer in the Discontinued area.

Manville Smith still on here to confirm?
post #6685 of 6764
Quote:
Originally Posted by scanido View Post

Long Term F113 Reliability?

I'm hoping this is just a one off, but considering the few issues I've had early on into an F113's ownership and another issue recently into the 4yr period, I am starting to lose major confidence in the longer term reliability of these subs!!

Several weeks ago (middle Aug), my long standing F113 experienced an issue with what appears to be the electronics. On any input signal the sub would exhibit crackling noises and the sound was attenuated substantially. This would also occur with the built-in test tone. Long story short my Dealer spoke to the Canadian distributer, Gemsen, and created an RMA. They worked with JL Audio and determined that the electronics will need to be replaced.

It is now Oct and after 5 LONG weeks the sub is still in the shop!! I've read the turnaround to JL directly is faster so this does not seem to be the case up here in the north. After receiving the necessary parts, Gemsen is doing the repair and hopefully everything is put back in good order with the same quality standards control as JL.

But after experiencing several issues with these subs, and reading of users that have had issues with the electronics (some even paying out of warranty upwards of >$900) , I'm not so certain of the longer term reliability of these subs. Again, it may just be another one off and hopefully so as I got two of these to contend with!!

Will update as soon as everything is resolved.

Maybe it's the GTA air? I have 4 F113s and I think 2 of them have been replaced because they started to make random noises thru the woofers - sounded like a coffee percolator and sometimes loud and you could see woofer moving (even with no signal). I think one of them is doing the same thing again. Sigh, maybe another trip to Gemsen....
post #6686 of 6764
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bogg View Post

Maybe it's the GTA air? I have 4 F113s and I think 2 of them have been replaced because they started to make random noises thru the woofers - sounded like a coffee percolator and sometimes loud and you could see woofer moving (even with no signal). I think one of them is doing the same thing again. Sigh, maybe another trip to Gemsen....

Please let us know how that goes. Maybe this is an issue on the earlier batches of these subs and later got resolved through modifying manufacturing process? Possibly a loose cable flapping inside the enclosure hitting the cone, who knows. I had a similar issue when i first got my F113 that was replaced because of this very reason. My newer subs do not have this problem.

Just an update on my issue reported - problem resolved. Electronics were replaced.
post #6687 of 6764
Quote:
Originally Posted by scanido View Post

Please let us know how that goes. Maybe this is an issue on the earlier batches of these subs and later got resolved through modifying manufacturing process? Possibly a loose cable flapping inside the enclosure hitting the cone, who knows. I had a similar issue when i first got my F113 that was replaced because of this very reason. My newer subs do not have this problem.

Just an update on my issue reported - problem resolved. Electronics were replaced.

I don't think it is a loose cable - it happens even if there is no signal to the sub (and all input signals disconnected). Seems to happen after a period of hours or days of being on. I had 2 other subs do this and they were replaced by JL. Not sure if this was one of them, I'll have to go back and look at the serial numbers.

I believe my warranty is finished. Did you have to pay for your electronics?
post #6688 of 6764
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Bogg View Post

I don't think it is a loose cable - it happens even if there is no signal to the sub (and all input signals disconnected). Seems to happen after a period of hours or days of being on. I had 2 other subs do this and they were replaced by JL. Not sure if this was one of them, I'll have to go back and look at the serial numbers.

I believe my warranty is finished. Did you have to pay for your electronics?

No the sub was still under warranty thank goodness. We do get to enjoy a 5yr warranty, albeit at the cost of paying much more for the subs up here.
post #6689 of 6764
Quote:
Originally Posted by scanido View Post

No the sub was still under warranty thank goodness. We do get to enjoy a 5yr warranty, albeit at the cost of paying much more for the subs up here.

oooh, I forgot it was a 5 year warranty. I'll have to see when I bought that one, probably close to 5 years ago anyway.
post #6690 of 6764
Rats, it was over 5 years ago for the second pair. But the strange thing is that I haven't heard any bad sounds since I switched the power cable from the PS Audio to something else. I love the PS Audio but I had a defective one previously so on a whim I just swapped the current PS Audio out and so far no noise. Maybe one of the welds was getting loose and introducing noise or something. Or maybe it will start making noise soon...
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