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Official SVS Owners/Support Thread. - Page 11

post #301 of 15623
The auto set up did work fine when I set the gain to full on the sub it set the sub to -5 and the mains to + 12
So than I ran it again and brought the gain way down on the sub to get 0 at all speakers
It took a few trys , but it is working properly
post #302 of 15623
Quote:
Originally Posted by antman27 View Post

The auto set up did work fine when I set the gain to full on the sub it set the sub to -5 and the mains to + 12
So than I ran it again and brought the gain way down on the sub to get 0 at all speakers
It took a few trys , but it is working properly

It would have been much easier and so much funner just to get an SPL meter and do it yourself.
post #303 of 15623
I will use the SPL on saturday once the wife & baby are out of the house
But the denon 3805 auto set up should do a close enough job .To me when I tryed some music the sub needed to be cranked way up
post #304 of 15623
Quote:
Originally Posted by antman27 View Post

I will use the SPL on saturday once the wife & baby are out of the house
But the denon 3805 auto set up should do a close enough job .To me when I tryed some music the sub needed to be cranked way up


You may need to move the sub. Your current placement could be causing a room mode issue.

The best way to find out is place the sub on your couch on the sweet spot, play some music and turn the speakers off, and crawl around with the SPL meter. Wherever it maxes out, that is where your sub should go.

I know it sounds crude, but it works. If you I put my sub in my front corner or anywhere along my front wall, it wouldn't sound anywhere as good as it sounds now.
post #305 of 15623
Quote:
Originally Posted by antman27 View Post

I will use the SPL on saturday once the wife & baby are out of the house
But the denon 3805 auto set up should do a close enough job .To me when I tryed some music the sub needed to be cranked way up

I believe SVS recommends not using auto setup on your receiver.
post #306 of 15623
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kipp Jones View Post

I believe SVS recommends not using auto setup on your receiver.

They still do. Auto setups in most systems are getting a little better, but not to the point where I would consider them reliable enough. An AVIA disk and an SPL meter is still the way to go, IMO.
post #307 of 15623
I will use the AVIA and SPL this weekend
are there any tests that I should jump right to on the disc ? Are any more helpful then others ?
post #308 of 15623
Quote:
Originally Posted by antman27 View Post

The auto set up did work fine when I set the gain to full on the sub it set the sub to -5 and the mains to + 12
So than I ran it again and brought the gain way down on the sub to get 0 at all speakers
It took a few trys , but it is working properly

As cneely8 said, if all your your speakers are the same db, (zero in your case) something is wrong. It just does not work that way, because of room acoustics the speakers always have differnt values. With all due respect, consider checking out the link I gave you on system setup.

Nick
post #309 of 15623
I will pull out the AVIA and SPL but one question since this SB12Plus is a sealed unit does space against the back wall come into play ?Should it be close or have some room in back.Unfourtnly my room does not have a corner that I can utlize
Alos question on placing subs in the corners of a room NOW I am only speaking on music not HT , could you have the sub behind you and the mains infront & REALY Not be able to tell the sub was behind you and have it blend with the mains upfront for MUSIC ?
post #310 of 15623
Your output would most likely be stronger with the sub as close to the wall as possible, but that doesn't necssessarily mean the response will be flatter. It depends on the room and your seating postion in the room.

You could have the sub behind you or to the side of you and get away with it especially if you keep your crossover setting fairly low.
post #311 of 15623
My sub is next to my couch, see pics, and I think it blends wonderfully with my mains. As long as you calibrate properly, and get the phase dialed right, it will work behind the couch. On the last page of this thread, I describe a quick and dirty way to adjust your phase.
post #312 of 15623
Has anyone have experience with Rocket Digital Equalization System


http://www.**********/products_catego...ssors&brand=48
I was wondering if it would be worth a try or a waste of $$ since the sb12+ has PEQ
I came across a used one for a great price
post #313 of 15623
Quote:
Originally Posted by antman27 View Post

Has anyone have experience with Rocket Digital Equalization System


http://www.**********/products_catego...ssors&brand=48
I was wondering if it would be worth a try or a waste of $$ since the sb12+ has PEQ
I came across a used one for a great price

With that much money you could buy a nice Behringer DEQ2496 and also buy the mic and cables to boot!

Works like a charm and blows every other pseudo sub-eq out of the water.
post #314 of 15623
Thanks but the one I was looking at was used like new and was $250
post #315 of 15623
Seems like a logical place to put some support info for those wishing to upgrade their drivers.

Anyone who is contemplating upgrading their drivers but isn't mechanically inclined, don't worry... we're here to help.

Let's face it, some of you might laugh at the following snapshots because replacing drivers is just too easy. However, there are others out there who might not even know the business end of a screwdriver. So don't flame me for this one!!! Truth be told it was a pain to take pictures when all I wanted to do was get the drivers replaced and get back to the music. But I've been given help from here before so I feel compelled to offer some shots and tips.

A little background... I own a 12.2 version of the PB12-Plus/2. It's BIG and it's BAD

I decided on upgrading the drivers to the 12.3 version for my own interest. Not trying to prove anything, just wanted to try them out. I also swapped out the amp due to an unexplained rattling. SVS was absolutely stellar in their support of the issue and it was in fact their quality of support [props to Erik at SVS] that nudged me to drop the $$ on the new drivers. Keep in mind there is absolutely nothing wrong with the 12.2's that were in my sub prior. Those are going to another good cause... more on that later.

So here's the stuff as it arrived yesterday. Took only 2 days to ship into Canada.





A quick look at the new driver (still hard-coned but black now):





A shot of the replacement amp and also the extra port plug I requested (that's right, they don't forget things from your order - unlike getting screwed in the drive-thru!):





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post #316 of 15623
There she is...

She has no idea she's about to be gutted in the next few minutes. Least of all she has no clue she's getting a new pair of woofers




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post #317 of 15623
Alright... A only a few things you'll need:

Philips (star) Screwdriver (one where the tip fits snug in the screw - this will avoid slipping and possible damage)

Robertson (square) Screwdriver (same advice as above)

Flat Screwdriver

Wire Strippers


Optional:

Cordless Screwdriver

Drill and 1/16 drill bit

Drywall Screws (#6 Wood)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It goes without saying but here it is... Make sure you have lots of room around you to do the work. Be careful not to tilt your sub into a wall or table or child. For that matter, [Ultra and PB12 owners] make sure your children and pets are accounted for before closing the sub up.


Start by flipping the box onto its side or back (in my case there is no amp in the back so I chose to flip it on the back - don't do this if you have an amp still attached, you may damage the controls)


post #318 of 15623
If you have felt pads or rubber feet on the botton take them off. Removal of the pads will expose the screws you'll need to take off using a medium to large Phillips head screwdriver. (If you didn't flip you box with baseplate facing up, start by removing the screws from the bottom so the baseplate doesn't tip and hit you in the head).




Once removed, set the screws and spacers aside and flip the box so the drivers are facing the sky (if you haven't already).





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post #319 of 15623
So there in front of you are the old drivers. Chances are they're secured with 8 Phillips screws each. Get your screwdriver or cordless and begin removing them. If you're using a cordless screwdriver or drill, go SLOOOOW. Don't use a long bit, rather a short bit and keep one hand close to the chuck (where the bit is placed) - this will help keep you from slipping off and into the driver





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post #320 of 15623
Now that you've got all the screws out (placed somewhere that you're not going to step on them), you need to gently lift the edge of the driver up. I suggest cautiously using a flat tip screwdriver. Start with the screwdriver standing straight up in between the driver and the edge of the wood. Then proceed to work the screwdriver under the edge of the driver, eventually lifting the edge. [Don't try to go in on an angle because you might slip and spear the cone).





You need only get it up enough to get your fingers under the sub. Once you can get you fingers underneath, SLOWLY lift the sub up and place on top of the box. Do not lift it too high, just enough to get it out and placed on the box. There are wires attaching the sub to the amp and they very short to keep from rattling!!

Once the sub is out, dicsonnect the wires from the terminals. You'll need to really wiggle them but do so carefully and they'll come off. Don't pull from the wire, rather grip the connector itself and slowly wiggle the connector until it comes free.



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post #321 of 15623
I probably should have mentioned you'll need to remember where those wires go... Oh well I don't think it matters. Just kidding... We'll make sure they go back in the right place.

Looking at the box from a different angle you can see the amp and the two primary wires hanging from them.




If your sub was working before you took it apart there is a good chance you have a single black wire sitting on the floor somewhere, you know, the one attached to the drivers you just took out. Don't lose that wire!

A little note on handling subs (or any speaker for that matter). These drivers are heavy... you don't want to handle the driver if you don't have to. Don't push the cone in to see if it's okay - because it won't be after you do that!! Not only that but you'll get finger prints all over it. Although the cone is durable as heck, it's not a good idea to play with it. Just make sure there are no tears in the rubber and that everything looks like it's in one piece. Make sure the spring terminals (the black and red colored chrome things where the wires are going to go) are still springy. They should spring back if you depress them.


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post #322 of 15623
Next, take one of the new drivers and place it on top of the box. This driver is going to go furthest away from the amp. Pay attention here!!! This driver goes in the hole that is furthest away from the amp. You can do it other ways but this is the way we're doing it today!

Because the new drivers come with spring terminals and the former drivers with traditional connectors, you'll need to strip the old connectors off. This is simple enough with pair of wire strippers. ** You're going to cut the end that was connected to the speaker NOT the end near the amp. You should only be removing 1/2" at most - any more than that and you're not paying attention. Simply cut the old connectors off as close to the end as possible. Then, using a pair of wire strippers, strip off about 1/2" of wire from both the black and red wires coming from the amp. You will need to do the same with the loose black wire you have. Simply cut the two connectors off and strip about 1/2" off. You should now have bare strands of wire on the end of each wire.


Once you've got the driver placed there make sure you've pulled the red wire through the correct driver opening, then, attach the bare RED WIRE to the RED TERMINAL of the new driver.

Attach one end of the loose BLACK WIRE to the BLACK TERMINAL of the new driver.





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post #323 of 15623
Now that you've got the wires hooked up, give them a gentle tug to make sure they're not coming out. Also make sure there are no loose strands of wire that you didn't get through the spring-clip holes.

Once you've checked over the above, gently lift the driver into the hole - orienting the spring terminals towards the amp. This will likely seem like the most obvious way as it provides the most cable slack.

When placed, you'll need to fish out the two remaining wires with your hand and pull them though the remaining opening.





As you can see, the driver is furthest away from the amp. You should have two black wires remaining. One comes from the amp and the other from the driver you just installed.


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post #324 of 15623
Next, place the second new driver on top of the box. You will need to attach the BLACK WIRE FROM THE AMP to the BLACK TERMINAL on the driver.

Attach the remaining black cable to the red terminal. It's important to make sure the cable that comes from the amp goes directly to the black (negative) terminal of the second driver you installed.





I know it might seem strange to wire things like this but it's perfectly normal. The theory behind that can be found in other threads for sure.

Once connected, do the same jiggle test and make sure the wires are firmly in place. Next, slowly place the sub into the opening with the spring-clips facing the other driver (basically both pairs of spring-clips will be facing each other).



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post #325 of 15623
Both drivers should be seated and looking good. The next step is to simply line up the holes and replace the screws.

** Although I don't recommend this to non-DIY'ers I feel more comfortable making new holes to secure the drivers. This is a simple task, however, it's easy enough to damage something so do this at your own risk. **

If you choose to make new holes you'll need a small (1/16-1/8") drill bit. Begin by spinning the driver so that the driver holes are in the middle of the existing holes on the box (basically you'll be drilling into clean wood that's not near the existing holes).





Center the driver from the edges as best as you can. Then, starting at any hole, drill a pilot hole all the way through the wood. Be careful not to bottom the drill chuck on the driver. Also make sure you don't leave the drill in a silly spot.





Before drilling more holes, take a screw and lightly secure the driver. This will help keep the following screws aligned. Next, drill another hole and again lightly secure it with a screw. Now that you've got two screws in place, make sure the driver is still centered and looks good. If so, go ahead and drill the remaining holes. Make sure you CAREFULLY vacuum the wood dust up.


Next, begin placing the screws in place. I prefer to use my own screws - which are #6 1-5/8" drywall screws (for wood). I find these to be the absolute best screws to use, however, you're free to use the old ones.





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post #326 of 15623
It's the home stretch... Now you need only put the base plate back on. I'd simply flip the sub so that the drivers are vertical (on on top of the other). This will allow you to rest the base plate on the floor and start inserting the spacers and screws.

In my case I had someone help hold the base plate, therefore I didn't flip the sub.

Make sure you thread the screws in by hand before using any sort of power tool. That way you won't strip any threads.





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post #327 of 15623
That's It!!

Well... maybe you could put those rubber feet back on if you want. Personally I find it amusing to stun my guests by allowing the sub to creep a few feet during the course of a good bassy movie.


Once you put the sub back in it's home, be sure to re-check your levels. I've got a Behringer DEQ2496 with mic that does the job from the seating position.





And a snapshot of the Behringer...







So that's pretty much it. I'm sure I missed a couple little things and could probably have added more detail but it's really a simple job. I hope it motivates some to try tweaking their stuff, whether an SVS upgrade or oterhwsie. If I can add anything or any more images I'll be glad to help.

Donnie
post #328 of 15623
Very detailed Donnie... nice job!
post #329 of 15623
I currently have a dedicated home theater and I'm looking to purchase a new sub. I am currently running a Sony DGR 800 receiver with infinity center and Klipsch floor standing speakers. My surrounds are bose for the time being. Anyway I need some imput on the SVS PCI 25-31 cylindrical sub...all the reviews are great but I want to hear from someone who actually ownes one.

thanks for the help
post #330 of 15623
I've got a 16-46PC+, which is a bigger and more powerful version. It's excellent for movies and music. I also own a Velodyne SPL1200-II, and have heard a Hsu STF-2, Velodyne DD-15, and some lower-end subs as well.
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