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Official SVS Owners/Support Thread. - Page 305

post #9121 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

Doesn't the Ultra do 10 Hz tuning? Maybe very close to sealed mode anyway.

No 10Hz mode since they moved to the Sledge amps AFAIK.

http://www.audioholics.com/reviews/speakers/subwoofers/svs-pb13/pb13-ultra-introduction
Quote:
The original PB13-Ultra also had a fourth, 10Hz mode where two ports were plugged, but they have since dropped this mode from the line-up. Perhaps they did so due to it being too compromised on port area, too close to the sealed alignment in response shape and performance, or simply as taking up unneeded processing power in the DSP unit. Whatever the reasons, SVS no longer recommends this on the current PB13-Ultra’s.
post #9122 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

I'm browsing the manual for your Yammy right now. Be sure you're setting all your speakers to Small (SML) in the 1 SPEAKER SET menu, and the BASS item set to SWFR. This will send all LFE and all content below the crossover to the subwoofer. According that manual, your receiver can output a test tone for your subwoofer (after testing all other speakers -- note that if BASS is set to MAIN instead of SWFR, you will not hear the subwoofer test tone). It seems that on your receiver the sub cross-over is fixed at 90 Hz. For now I don't see other settings that could affect the sub signal on your receiver.
Except of course for the source. What are you listening to exactly?
Another thing to look at is the cable itself. You could try swapping it with another one; if it is damaged internally it could attenuate the signal.
Also sh!t happens. I just got a PC12-Plus with what looks like a stuck woofer. If your sub is defective SVS will take care of you. But we're not there yet.

All speakers are set to small and set on subwoofer... Do you think I should use the spl meter with the test tone from the reciever? As far as the cable, I disconnected it from my old sub today that worked fine and put it into the svs. I'm really bummed out right now, I feel I have a real nice looking piece of furniture in my living room with not much sound.....
Rick
post #9123 of 15827
Hey Neutro if i go to the test tone in the reciever and set all other speakers lower will that make the sub level output more. I would be pushing reciever to a higher level which would bring everything up but the bass would be higher....Just a thought..
Rick
post #9124 of 15827
All other speakers should be set at 75db. Lfe can be set to 85db. Spl meter. This was the dd standard
post #9125 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post

All other speakers should be set at 75db. Lfe can be set to 85db. Spl meter. This was the dd standard

At least if you are using SD-DVE for the test tones. The LFE tone was mistakenly recorded 10dB too cold, so when both the satellites and the sub were set to 75dB, the LFE was, shall we say, somewhat "lacking." However, this was not a problem for Avia, since it does not have a discrete LFE tone, but instead uses redirected bass to set LFE levels. I don't know if the HD version of DVE fixed this problem, as I let Audyssey do a rough calibration, and then fine tune using SD-DVE.
post #9126 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve1981 View Post

Well 20x32x8 is already pushing 5000 cubic feet, and if that doesn't include the kitchen, then yes, that is a huge room. I'd expect a PB12+ to still give a decent accounting of itself (older model I take it since you mention its downfiring?), but depending on your expectations and judging by your impressions, you're going to need a lot more subwoofer to get the job done.
Edit: PS: if your subwoofer is 8' away from any walls, you might try corner loading for some additional output.

I just had the voice coil redone just to make sure it wasn't bottoming out prematurely. Any suggestions on what to try next? I guest I will throw the SVS on Craigs or in the classifieds. JTR sounds GREAT but a bit more than I want to spend.
post #9127 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikehenya View Post

I just had the voice coil redone just to make sure it wasn't bottoming out prematurely. Any suggestions on what to try next? I guest I will throw the SVS on Craigs or in the classifieds. JTR sounds GREAT but a bit more than I want to spend.

How many other locations have you tried? Bass nulls are very position dependent. Sometimes just moving the sub and/or the listening position by a foot can have a dramatic effect.

How are you calibrating the subs (Gain matching/Level matching/ by ear)? If one sub is less powerful and you are level matching, you are matching to the least powerful sub.

Have you tried just running the SVS by itself as a test to see if there are any destructive interference issues occurring between the Velo and the SVS? It sounds counter intuitive, but sometimes two subs of different types can have phase issues which bring the quantity and quality of bass in a room down. An easy way to confirm this is with an SPL meter. Set the meter up in the listening position, start the test tones, and see what kind of SPL you are getting with both subs on. Then turn off one sub and check if the SPL went up or down. If it went up, you definitely are experiencing destructive interference, which can be eliminated/mitigated by adjusting the phase settings on the sub, and/or adjusting the distance settings in the AVR, and/or physically moving one or both subs. If the SPL went down, by how much? If only 1-2 DB, there is a good chance you are still having phase issues.
post #9128 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowhand81 View Post

Hey Neutro if i go to the test tone in the reciever and set all other speakers lower will that make the sub level output more. I would be pushing reciever to a higher level which would bring everything up but the bass would be higher....Just a thought..
Rick

Yes, that is a possibility, but probably shouldn't be necessary, and doesn't really solve any issues with the sub. You shouldn't have to lower the gain for every other speaker, the NSD should still be belting away regardless of their settings. If the sub is not giving much output, I'd look elsewhere for an issue.

A couple random ideas to check.

1) Adjust the phase knob on the sub. For example, from the 0 to 180 position.
2) Try the other input on the back of the sub, either the left or the right (it shouldn't make a difference, but if there is an issue with one RCA input it is easy to trouble shoot).
3) verify the lowpass knob is all the way to the right ("disable") position on the sub.
4) If your AVR doesn't have much signal strength, it may be useful to try a Y-cable (1-female to 2-male) and use both the left and right inputs. For most AVR's this isn't necessary, but you can try it (Y-splitters are a couple bucks at Radio Shack/Target/Best Buy/Walmart, and less $ on the net if you are willing to wait for them to be shipped).
post #9129 of 15827
Not attacking anybody in my comment, one can always stick an Anti-Mode in the path and let the Anti-Mode EQ the subwoofer sound quality. Is it pricey? Yes. But it's cheaper than buying a whole new setup and one gets much better results than what they get moving the room around and balancing things with a sound meter. In my opinion, if one is serious about their subwoofer game, they'll take the time and money to get an equalizer and test gear so they can see and adjust their room acoustics accordingly. In my opinion, everything else, one is just shooting in the dark and hoping for a positive outcome.

FWIW, I just recently came to this conclusion, based on personal experience and reading the same laments over and over and over (*hurl") and over and over again; the acoustics in my room suck air. What can I do?

Okay, I get it. Balancing bass is tougher to tame than our human hearing and brain are capable of. I get it. Enters stage right (that's the audience's left), the act of ordering an Anti-Mode, 8033S II, downloading REW and ordering up a omnidirectional mic, passive power supply and mic stand so I can measure/analyze (acoustically see) the room. In my opinion, time, money and effort well worth the time, money and effort as one is now seeing the truth of their room's acoustics and they're making "meaningful" changes to the reproduced sound's reaction to the room's acoustics; the more filters the merrier.

I'm just saying, if one is frustrated with their efforts at acoustically taming their room, then it's time to step it up to the next level which means, hitting the hip, buying some more gear and taking the time to learn how to, in a meaningful way, use the stuff. On the positive side, that's why it's called a hobby. If one were into fishing, they'd be doing the same thing, hanging out on a fishing web site, spending far too much money and learning about; fish finders, boats, trolling motors, special get away locations, rods, reels, rules of nature, lures and experiencing the fun of travel.

My fish finder sucks bilge water and it won't find anything below fifty feet. What am I doing wrong? tongue.gif

How deep is the area of the lake you're in? Last I checked, that area of the lake was only thirty feet and the lake hasn't had any fish in it since the Department of Fish and Game killed all the fish in 53. tongue.gif

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Edited by BeeMan458 - 11/29/12 at 4:49am
post #9130 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

Where are you going to study? UK? US? Canada? It's a great idea and I wish I had the courage to do that.
Yeah looking at the FR graphs, I thought the 16 Hz tuning mode looked like a great compromise. The variable tuning is one of the reason I went with Pluses instead of NSDs...
You have a point. On some AVRs (Audyssey-equipped) the LFE channel has its own cross-over and you can redirect the upper frequencies to the mains; but that's not my case. Having symmetrically positioned subs will help with the mid-bass present in the LFE channel. I guess the real answer to that is to try both positions.
Is that mainly due to DSP and amp? or do you feel the driver you used is not up to par? It's certainly one of the most impressive sub I've ever seen tongue.gif
They do have very similar FR curves... Doesn't the Ultra do 10 Hz tuning? Maybe very close to sealed mode anyway.

Hi

I will study in my own city (Gijón - Asturias / Spain).
I have the good fortune that the official language school, is 10 minutes from my house.

I just arrived a few minutes ago, an email saying my PB12-Plus is close to my destination, I'm dying ... On Monday or Tuesday I hope this at home. LOL

If you have Audyssey, you should have no problem changing the LPF of LFE to 80hz. I have a MultEQ XT, but I like having the full range LFE also possible subwoofers are positioned as in the scheme of your points 2 and 3.

I have DSP for 24 ", but in my humble opinion the PC13 does a better job of 40Hz to 15Hz or 12Hz. Besides that not only is the SPL and low THD, SVS has a distinctive sound that throughout my life as audio enthusiast is never heard in any other subwoofer.

The DSP version of my PC13, have eliminated the 10hz tune, by issues internal volume of the amplifier. Nor will you miss, you get little compared to sealed mode.
I use 16Hz mode, goes strong until the 10hz in my tiny room and sometimes longer and longer out of range of my SPL meter ULTRACURVE Behringer, +120 db ... I can not wait much I can accomplish with the Plus Ultra and together. I will reduce to rubble and dust around my neighborhood, lol
post #9131 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowhand81 View Post

All speakers are set to small and set on subwoofer... Do you think I should use the spl meter with the test tone from the reciever? As far as the cable, I disconnected it from my old sub today that worked fine and put it into the svs. I'm really bummed out right now, I feel I have a real nice looking piece of furniture in my living room with not much sound.....
Rick

If you have your older sub around... why not do a quick test. Don't change anything in the AVR and use the same cable to connect your older sub at the same location as your PB12. Does it sound much better? If yes, then we know the problem is with the sub. Review Snowmannick's suggestions. If the gain is at 12 o'clock, phase doesn't change anything, LPF is disabled, and the cable is correctly connected, then there may be something wrong with either the amp or the woofer.

Since I just got a dud, it would be conceivable that you have the same problem as me. One thing I noticed is that the affected sub reacts differently than my functional sub if I gently tap the woofer cone. On the functional sub it feels hollow, resonating, and sounds like "thump thump". On the affected sub the cone feels really stiff and sounds more like "toc toc", as if the cone was a piece of wood. If this is also the case with your sub I'd contact SVS's support; but since they will likely ask you to first revise the sub and AVR settings, better do all the other tests too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post

All other speakers should be set at 75db. Lfe can be set to 85db. Spl meter. This was the dd standard
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vader424242 View Post

At least if you are using SD-DVE for the test tones. The LFE tone was mistakenly recorded 10dB too cold, so when both the satellites and the sub were set to 75dB, the LFE was, shall we say, somewhat "lacking." However, this was not a problem for Avia, since it does not have a discrete LFE tone, but instead uses redirected bass to set LFE levels. I don't know if the HD version of DVE fixed this problem, as I let Audyssey do a rough calibration, and then fine tune using SD-DVE.

That's interesting -- but I didn't know about those test tones. Where can they be found exactly? What are DVE and Avia? Newb wants to know. I set my sub to roughly 75 dB using my AVR's built-in pink noise test tone.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mikehenya View Post

I just had the voice coil redone just to make sure it wasn't bottoming out prematurely. Any suggestions on what to try next? I guest I will throw the SVS on Craigs or in the classifieds. JTR sounds GREAT but a bit more than I want to spend.

Just do what Snowmannick suggested; I think he covered it all. And I missed the part with your 2nd sub: Snowmannick's suggestion that you check the phase is very important in that case. Also, the bottom-firing PB12-Plus had what, 525W BASH amp? I think the current NSDs are almost up to the performance of those. So yeah at 5000 cu ft it would be lots to ask of that sub. Of course Captivators would rock but you're talking 2 kW amps with 18" drivers. Not really the same league as an older Plus; hence the price tag.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

Not attacking anybody in my comment, one can always stick an Anti-Mode in the path and let the Anti-Mode EQ the subwoofer sound quality. Is it pricey? Yes.

I too can attest to the benefits of EQing. However, there are steps that can be taken to dramatically improve sound quality without EQing; finding the best location for the sub (and listener!) being among them. Also, the Antimode looks like quite a nifty gadget and allows you to automate the EQing process. But there are EQing solutions that require more wires and adapters and laptops and time that are much cheaper. I bought maybe $150 of gear (not counting the laptop of course) to EQ my sub through the BFD. The process took my the better part of an evening but now it pretty much does the job of the Antimode after calibration itself is performed. I'd say using the Antimode, or MultEqXT, or other automatic EQing devices, is really akin to paying the automatic gearbox option in a car, whereas you can still achieve similar results with more work (but sometimes more flexibility) using the manual gearbox (i.e. the BFD or MiniDSP). There is a good chance my next AVR will have MultEQ XT but for now my current one doesn't, but otherwise works well. I prefer spending my money on subs for now!
Quote:
On the positive side, that's why it's called a hobby. If one were into fishing, they'd be doing the same thing, hanging out on a fishing web site, spending far too much money and learning about; fish finders, boats, trolling motors, special get away locations, rods, reels, rules of nature, lures and experiencing the fun of travel.

Exactly! Same thing with biking (I have friends owning multiple multi-k$ bikes and what amounts to a bike shop in their garage -- they should shut up about my subs), car tuning, even coffee-making (I know people who spent far more on their espresso machine and grinders than on my HT setup!).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lecter83 View Post

I will study in my own city (Gijón - Asturias / Spain).
I have the good fortune that the official language school, is 10 minutes from my house.

I just assumed that you'd have studied abroad. So it's a language school then -- will you specifically study English as a full-time student for 5 years there?
Quote:
I just arrived a few minutes ago, an email saying my PB12-Plus is close to my destination, I'm dying ... On Monday or Tuesday I hope this at home. LOL

Maybe it will be there in time for the weekend smile.gif
Quote:
If you have Audyssey, you should have no problem changing the LPF of LFE to 80hz.

I know, but I don't, sadly. I have an otherwise ok receiver (for the price I paid), a Pioneer VSX-1020-K. It does calibrate and EQ all channels except the sub, and crossover is the same for all channels including LFE. It's currently set at 80 Hz, but considering the mess in FR measurements around 100 Hz (maybe due to the fact that my main's woofers are blocked by furniture), I'll probably try a 100 Hz crossover. This shouldn't be a problem with localization if the two subs are located symmetrically on the front stage.
Quote:
Besides that not only is the SPL and low THD, SVS has a distinctive sound that throughout my life as audio enthusiast is never heard in any other subwoofer.

Interesting... As I didn't hear any other subwoofer except my older, crappy 60W, 8" one.
Quote:
The DSP version of my PC13, have eliminated the 10hz tune, by issues internal volume of the amplifier. Nor will you miss, you get little compared to sealed mode.

Good to know; so it was there before but got eliminated when SVS switched to Sledge amps? Or maybe even more recently?
Quote:
I will reduce to rubble and dust around my neighborhood, lol

I can't wait either to try duals, and simply try a higher volume. This morning with my 2-yo daughter (who was gripping me tightly), I raised the volume --- to -20 dB biggrin.gif --- for the first time with the new sub listening to the Amazing Life THX trailer (in lossless surround sound). Wow, I could feel how the Plus is much more powerful than the SB12 right there when the mushrooms pop. It felt like a seismic wave slowly rolling under my feet. Must... listen... close... to... reference! tongue.gif
post #9132 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

However, there are steps that can be taken to dramatically improve sound quality without EQing; finding the best location for the sub (and listener!) being among them. Also, the Antimode looks like quite a nifty gadget and allows you to automate the EQing process. But there are EQing solutions that require more wires and adapters and laptops and time that are much cheaper. I bought maybe $150 of gear (not counting the laptop of course) to EQ my sub through the BFD. The process took my the better part of an evening but now it pretty much does the job of the Antimode after calibration itself is performed. I'd say using the Antimode, or MultEqXT, or other automatic EQing devices, is really akin to paying the automatic gearbox option in a car, whereas you can still achieve similar results with more work (but sometimes more flexibility) using the manual gearbox (i.e. the BFD or MiniDSP). There is a good chance my next AVR will have MultEQ XT but for now my current one doesn't, but otherwise works well. I prefer spending my money on subs for now!

And what about those who don't want to do what you did? It's a suggestion, not a decree. I have made myself a personal promise and that is, if I ever buy a car with a manual gear box in it ever again, I'm to immediately take it out to the nearest field, shoot it and leave it there to become rust but one thing I'm never going do, is tell another person there's another way. The point, buy a manual transmission or don't buy a manual transmission and if someone wants to know why I think manual transmissions are such a bad idea, ask and I'll be happy to tell you why.

The point, Anti-mode is a great idea that's well worth the money for the ease of use it brings to room analyzation and correction. Plug it in, push the buttons, let it do it's thing, go to sleep. Now if someone wants to save a few bucks and beat their brains out doing so, have at it. As cops like to say, we can do this the easy way or we can do this the hard way; now, which way do you want to go? Me? I'll be the guy over by the pool. cool.gif

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Edited by BeeMan458 - 11/29/12 at 7:50am
post #9133 of 15827
the idea that the testones is innacurate.

you should set the sub to 85dbs because the LFE channell according to THX has a cap of 125db and the mains and surrounds have a cap of 115db in a calibrated system. therefore for both the sub and the mains should be calibrated with testones at 30dbs under the max output.

at least that is how I read it
post #9134 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by BeeMan458 View Post

(...) one thing I'm never going do, is tell another person there's another way. The point, buy a manual transmission or don't buy a manual transmission and if someone wants to know why I think manual transmissions are such a bad idea, ask and I'll be happy to tell you why.

That was exactly my point: if someone prefers to trade hassle for money, there's an option for that.

That being said, all transmissions are not made equal, so it's on a case-by-case basis, but in general, I for one prefer to drive than be driven biggrin.gif Still, I admit I'd have used an Antimode this week as I had little time for figuring how to EQ what I got as a FR.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post

the idea that the testones is innacurate.
you should set the sub to 85dbs because the LFE channell according to THX has a cap of 125db and the mains and surrounds have a cap of 115db in a calibrated system. therefore for both the sub and the mains should be calibrated with testones at 30dbs under the max output.
at least that is how I read it

Enlightening! I didn't even know about those caps. So what does calibration means... it seems to me that playing at 0 dB (reference), everything is generally much louder than 75 dB, except maybe for dialogs. So if I understand correctly, you say that playing at reference would mean the dynamic range extends to 115 dB max for all channels and 125 dB max for LFE? (assuming a THX-certified soundtrack I guess)
post #9135 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

So if I understand correctly, you say that playing at reference would mean the dynamic range extends to 115 dB max for all channels and 125 dB max for LFE? (assuming a THX-certified soundtrack I guess)

Not AFAIK.

http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_13_1/feature-article-thx-1-2006-part-1.html
Quote:
Reference level is by any definition, objective or subjective, quite loud. It basically mirrors the dynamic range of the studio system, which in the case of all movie sound tracks, is 105 dB. Any single channel of the system is calibrated to play 0 dB FSD (the loudest sound the sound track can contain) at 105 dB (115 dB for the LFE channel).

Also with respect to the test tones/pink noise, the only advice I can give is to follow the directions that came with them for calibration. In most cases I'm aware of, ie with the receiver's tone generator, you should not adjust the subwoofer 10dB higher.
Edited by Steve1981 - 11/29/12 at 8:34am
post #9136 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post

the idea that the testones is innacurate.
you should set the sub to 85dbs because the LFE channell according to THX has a cap of 125db and the mains and surrounds have a cap of 115db in a calibrated system. therefore for both the sub and the mains should be calibrated with testones at 30dbs under the max output.
at least that is how I read it

Hi Brian,

There was a discussion a couple of years back in the Subwoofer forums concerning the hot encoding of the LFE channel (I erroneously said "cold"... oops). In a nutshell, SD-DVE fails to compensate for the 10dB LFE boost that is standard for DD:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1246176/calibrating-a-subwoofer-with-dve-hd-or-receiver-tones#post_18575005

You are correct in the 75dB/85dB calibration levels (even for Avia, since the RB correctly assumed the 10dB LFE boost - I was wrong there... sorry). Also, in looking at the SD-DVE specs, the satellite tones are encoded at -30 bBSF (as you said), and the LFE at -33dBSF...?!? Now I'm confused again...
post #9137 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve1981 View Post

Not AFAIK.
http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/volume_13_1/feature-article-thx-1-2006-part-1.html
Also with respect to the test tones/pink noise, the only advice I can give is to follow the directions that came with them for calibration. In most cases I'm aware of, ie with the receiver's tone generator, you should not adjust the subwoofer 10dB higher.

I agree, i have never heard of such a thing.
post #9138 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post

That was exactly my point: if someone prefers to trade hassle for money, there's an option for that.
That being said, all transmissions are not made equal, so it's on a case-by-case basis, but in general, I for one prefer to drive than be driven biggrin.gif Still, I admit I'd have used an Antimode this week as I had little time for figuring how to EQ what I got as a FR.
Enlightening! I didn't even know about those caps. So what does calibration means... it seems to me that playing at 0 dB (reference), everything is generally much louder than 75 dB, except maybe for dialogs. So if I understand correctly, you say that playing at reference would mean the dynamic range extends to 115 dB max for all channels and 125 dB max for LFE? (assuming a THX-certified soundtrack I guess)

correct. this way ALL systems should be the same level if played at reference no matter where you are.
post #9139 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by neutro View Post


I just assumed that you'd have studied abroad. So it's a language school then -- will you specifically study English as a full-time student for 5 years there?
Maybe it will be there in time for the weekend smile.gif
I know, but I don't, sadly. I have an otherwise ok receiver (for the price I paid), a Pioneer VSX-1020-K. It does calibrate and EQ all channels except the sub, and crossover is the same for all channels including LFE. It's currently set at 80 Hz, but considering the mess in FR measurements around 100 Hz (maybe due to the fact that my main's woofers are blocked by furniture), I'll probably try a 100 Hz crossover. This shouldn't be a problem with localization if the two subs are located symmetrically on the front stage.
Interesting... As I didn't hear any other subwoofer except my older, crappy 60W, 8" one.
Good to know; so it was there before but got eliminated when SVS switched to Sledge amps? Or maybe even more recently?
I can't wait either to try duals, and simply try a higher volume. This morning with my 2-yo daughter (who was gripping me tightly), I raised the volume --- to -20 dB biggrin.gif --- for the first time with the new sub listening to the Amazing Life THX trailer (in lossless surround sound). Wow, I could feel how the Plus is much more powerful than the SB12 right there when the mushrooms pop. It felt like a seismic wave slowly rolling under my feet. Must... listen... close... to... reference! tongue.gif

They are five years of study, but if you want the improvement of language, the last year you have to go abroad (in my case in England, where the closer to my country).

The Subwoofer I arrived on Monday or Tuesday everything later. But there will be no problem for distrufarlo recepcionarlo and I am unemployed for a few months, which gives me time now to enjoy some of these beasts.

If you have two subwoofers placed symmetrically location will not have problems, serious diference if it were one where if notary Subwoofer much. Anyway to each room and speakers, will feel very different frequency cuts ... In the world of acoustic everything is possible to also no room sounds equally. These are the most responsible for the quality of our end.

SVS to 10hz mode removed since it hit the market new series Sledge Ultra PC / PB (SB13 model has no such problem lol).

Glad to know that your PC12-Plus and you are teaching your muscles and what they can do, it is certainly a demonic beast that transmit sensations.

I'll be aware of as you go getting new sensations with her two new toys.
I also I have really wanted to tell you all my feelings with my two beasts.
post #9140 of 15827
Quote:
On Monday I ordered a bunch of blu-rays for about $10 each, including a few 5-stars and otherwise bassy movies (Hot Fuzz, Clash + Wrath of the Titans

Wrath of the Titans, what an awful movie:eek: Having said that, that movie have serious bass, I picked it up on Blu Ray on Black Friday on the cheap.
post #9141 of 15827
Quote:
Okay, I get it. Balancing bass is tougher to tame than our human hearing and brain are capable of. I get it. Enters stage right (that's the audience's left), the act of ordering an Anti-Mode, 8033S II, downloading REW and ordering up a omnidirectional mic, passive power supply and mic stand so I can measure/analyze (acoustically see) the room

Do you actually need to purchase a new sound card for REW? Is there a cheaper and less complicated way measuring the room?
post #9142 of 15827
Lecter, best of lucks in your studies. Also sorry to hear you're unemployed for now -- I know things are rough in Spain right now. I myself may have to take 2 weeks off for a minor surgery... Sucks but on the other hand I can't wait to be alone at home and try my HT setup at full blast.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Auditor55 View Post

Wrath of the Titans, what an awful movie:eek: Having said that, that movie have serious bass, I picked it up on Blu Ray on Black Friday on the cheap.

Well most of the 5- and 4.5-star movies I either have already seen or are awful movies... But I can enjoy the occasional slamfest if it's at least new. I can't help it but I still want to see Battle: LA after all the bad reviews. If anything, at least, my expectations are not very high for Clash & Wrath; and given the price paid, why not. I'm tempted to pick U-571 just for the depth charge scene or Flight of the Phoenix just for the crash scene, but I... just can't tongue.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by Auditor55 View Post

Do you actually need to purchase a new sound card for REW? Is there a cheaper and less complicated way measuring the room?

Not necessarily. REW calibrates the sound card, and in the result you see the noise level. In my case it was below the recommended maximum noise level (but a bit close), so I did not buy an external audio adapter. Most of them nowadays are quite expensive because they're mostly high-end products. I think that plus a RadioShack SPL meter (and associated calibration file) remains the cheapest way to take a frequency measurement. All other methods involve buying more expensive mics and possibly a replacement for the audio adapter (e.g. Omnimic). The good thing is, calibrating your sound card using REW is very simple and you only needs a 3.5 mm jack cable (to bridge the input and output). So you can download and install REW, calibrate your audio adapter, and see if you need to invest in more hardware (SPL meter, audio adapter, EQ gear, etc.). Also what if the noise floor of your audio adapter is above the recommended limit? Your measurements will be a bit less precise. You can compensate by running multiple sweeps (signal-to-noise ratio improves as the square root of the number of averaged measurements).
post #9143 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Auditor55 View Post

Do you actually need to purchase a new sound card for REW?

IIRC it's recommended in REW's documentation to have a good quality sound card versus say, a basic laptop setup.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Auditor55 View Post

Is there a cheaper and less complicated way measuring the room?

Cheaper than REW? Probably not. Less complicated? Dayton Omnimic probably qualifies.
post #9144 of 15827
So you can use the internal sound card of a MacBook Pro?
post #9145 of 15827
post #9146 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Fineberg View Post

So you can use the internal sound card of a MacBook Pro?

Nothing actually prevents it biggrin.gif (well does REW works on Macs? I know it's programmed in java but never checked for a Mac OS version). So yes you can. In REW's tutorial there's a procedure to calibrate it and to check the noise level if I remember. I did it with my laptop's adapter (a Lenovo Ideapad) and while the noise level was not stellar, it was indeed below the recommended max, so I did not buy a $200 external audio adapter considering my goal was not to publish the results in a scientific journal wink.gif
post #9147 of 15827
well then since i have l already downloaded the REW on my mac...looks like its time to take some graphed measurements.

nice! So i calibrate it...then run sweeps with it running and a graph will be generated?
post #9148 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Auditor55 View Post

Wrath of the Titans, what an awful movie:eek: Having said that, that movie have serious bass, I picked it up on Blu Ray on Black Friday on the cheap.

I didnt find it that bad to be honest. I mean these are all check your brain at the door type movies anyhow.

I do recomend buying u571 and FotP. no doubt not terrible movies by any means
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I'm happy to say my piece of furniture just turned into a subwoofer Beast!!.....Ahhhhhhh
The problem turned out to be, the factory put the Gain knob on in wrong position, so I thought I had the thing on 3/4's but it was only 1/4...When I took the knob off and put it in the right position I have it in 11 o'clock position and my wife said the ceiling fan downstairs is moving!!! She came upstairs and said, I guess you found the problem....lol Now the fun will begin....

Rick
post #9150 of 15827
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowhand81 View Post

I'm happy to say my piece of furniture just turned into a subwoofer Beast!!.....Ahhhhhhh
The problem turned out to be, the factory put the Gain knob on in wrong position, so I thought I had the thing on 3/4's but it was only 1/4...When I took the knob off and put it in the right position I have it in 11 o'clock position and my wife said the ceiling fan downstairs is moving!!! She came upstairs and said, I guess you found the problem....lol Now the fun will begin....
Rick

woohoo!!! haha knew it had to be something simple
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