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Owners ONLY thread >>> 60"/70" XBR2 <<< Settings/Tweaks - Page 35

post #1021 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErichGS View Post

Jeff was out on Monday to calibrate my 70 inch XBR2 ...

Thanks for the report. I've included it in the owner's calibration list that is linked at the bottom of my post.
post #1022 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by ErichGS View Post

Thanks again Jeff, it really is unbelievable how much your work improves the complete HT experience.

Eric, you have a PM.
post #1023 of 1290
I have been doing some serious tweaking of my 70 SXRD over the last 6 months and have been documenting my progress on a local forum here in Australia.
The purpose of all my mods has been to improve black level and ANSI contrast. I have been successful on both counts with a subtle improvement in ANSI contrast and a very significant 60-70% reduction in black level.

Now that my modifications are complete I thought AVS members might be interested in the results of my work and see how things are done down under.

Rather then write everything out again here, I shall link to the most relevant posts and people can read at their leisure.

Early exploits in SXRD disassembly and exploration.

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...9&#entry603149


Blacking out the interior of the set.

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...6&#entry640976


Finally, installation of a neutral density filter and discussion on Iris service menu tweaking and contrast ratio maximisation.

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...dpost&p=742717

and

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...dpost&p=743871



The Australian SXRD's are basically identical to the US XBR2, but there are differences in tuners, power supplies and video format support to suit our market.
I have service manuals for both the US 70 XBR2 and local KS-70R200A and they seem identical in specification, even the service menu looks the same so discussion about service menu Iris settings on the Australian models should still be relevant to the US XBR2 and maybe other SXRD's as well.

I would be very interested in any information that AVS members can provide on the function of the numerous service menu settings as such info is not available in the service manual. Please PM me if you can assist with any info.

Owen
post #1024 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen View Post

I have been doing some serious tweaking of my 70” SXRD over the last 6 months and have been documenting my progress on a local forum here in Australia.
The purpose of all my mods has been to improve black level and ANSI contrast. I have been successful on both counts with a subtle improvement in ANSI contrast and a very significant 60-70% reduction in black level.

Now that my modifications are complete I thought AVS members might be interested in the results of my work and see how things are done down under.

Rather then write everything out again here, I shall link to the most relevant posts and people can read at their leisure.

Early exploits in SXRD disassembly and exploration.

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...9&#entry603149


Blacking out the interior of the set.

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...6&#entry640976


Finally, installation of a neutral density filter and discussion on Iris service menu tweaking and contrast ratio maximisation.

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...dpost&p=742717

and

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...dpost&p=743871



The Australian SXRD’s are basically identical to the US XBR2, but there are differences in tuners, power supplies and video format support to suit our market.
I have service manuals for both the US 70” XBR2 and local KS-70R200A and they seem identical in specification, even the service menu looks the same so discussion about service menu Iris settings on the Australian models should still be relevant to the US XBR2 and maybe other SXRD’s as well.

I would be very interested in any information that AVS members can provide on the function of the numerous service menu settings as such info is not available in the service manual. Please PM me if you can assist with any info.

Owen

I tried reading through the dtvforum thread to find your service menu iris settings. It looked like you settled on irismin at 140 for min, 50 for auto 1 and 310 for auto2. I have some questions:

-How do you get the irismin setting to stay at 310 for auto2, 140 for min and 50 for auto1 on the same input? I would save either and go back in and it would be at the last value saved.

-My default setting for iris min was 365. Why, if black levels would improve so much, didn't Sony set them at 50 or lower to begin with?
post #1025 of 1290
The same question was asked on DTV Forum yesterday.
There is only one IRISMIN setting in the service menu and it is common to all iris modes, so it's your call as to what setting you use based on what iris modes you use.
I find it best to just set it to 50 and leave it. The only possible disadvantage in using 50 or less is a lowering of average picture brightness for average scenes, which is of no concern to me. I am not certain that occurs as I have not specifically tested for that affect. Lowest possible black level is my only concern.

As for why Sony chose the setting they did, I could only ponder a guess, but Sony seem to have optimised the SXRD for bright viewing environments, probably to help in the showroom war where brighter is perceived as better by many.
post #1026 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen View Post

I have been doing some serious tweaking of my 70 SXRD over the last 6 months and have been documenting my progress on a local forum here in Australia.
The purpose of all my mods has been to improve black level and ANSI contrast. I have been successful on both counts with a subtle improvement in ANSI contrast and a very significant 60-70% reduction in black level.

Now that my modifications are complete I thought AVS members might be interested in the results of my work and see how things are done down under.

Rather then write everything out again here, I shall link to the most relevant posts and people can read at their leisure.

Early exploits in SXRD disassembly and exploration.

http://www.dtvforum.info/index.php?s...9&#entry603149 ...



Very nice pictures. Thanks for sharing
post #1027 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen View Post

I have been doing some serious tweaking of my 70 SXRD over the last 6 months and have been documenting my progress on a local forum here in Australia. ...

Owen

In the picture Owen posted here you can see a board with a transformer. This is the area where the buzz from my set is the loudest. I wonder if the source of the buzz is just a noisy transformer Anyone have any thoughts on this?
post #1028 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by DCIFRTHS View Post

In the picture Owen posted here you can see a board with a transformer. This is the area where the buzz from my set is the loudest. I wonder if the source of the buzz is just a noisy transformer Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Transformers can definitely buzz, usually 60Hz or some harmonic of 60Hz (120Hz or 180Hz would be most common, sometimes a combination of several frequencies). If it is happening because the transformer is just barely touching the circuit board, you may be able to damp the buzzing by wedging (carefully!!!) something non-conductive between the transformer and the circuit board. If that works, you might want to consider epoxying the transformer to the board so that the epoxy fills any tiny gaps between the transformer and board. If the body of the transformer is buzzing, that's harder to stop - you'd have to know how hot the transformer gets while in operation. If it gets hot or even fairly warm, you don't want to do anything that would reduce air cooling.

Does it buzz all the time or only when the lamp is starting? If it is an 'all the time' buzz, it may be a result of loose windings in the transformer. OR it may be a result of distortion of the power line at your home. A problem like that would be fixable by the utility company - but their employees won't have oscilloscopes to look at the waveform and won't know what they are looking at even if they did have oscilloscopes. So unless you have an extraordinary utility that recognizes the value of having a high quality sine wave (more efficient use of electricity by everybody), your only fix is probably getting a power conditioning product that repairs the sine wave completely like an ExactPower EP-15A that costs about $2500. Most products that correct distorted sine waves are going to cost that much or more... unfortunately. You don't want to spend the money without knowing if your problem is your power line though. A friend with an oscilloscope would be a good thing to have to figure out if that's your problem or not. And I guess I should point out that IF the AC sine wave at your house is distorted, getting something that repairs the sine wave may still not stop the buzzing.
post #1029 of 1290
Test, I am not getting anything from AVS when People respond to the threads. Any one else noticed this???
post #1030 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by G.B. View Post

Test, I am not getting anything from AVS when People respond to the threads. Any one else noticed this???

I know they have had alot of server issues the last week or so..
post #1031 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by G.B. View Post

Test, I am not getting anything from AVS when People respond to the threads. Any one else noticed this???

I had AVS emails when I logged on this morning. So far today, every thing seems normal. Your email "pop" server may be having a problem.
post #1032 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by G.B. View Post

Test, I am not getting anything from AVS when People respond to the threads. Any one else noticed this???

I've had that problem several times a week for months. I figured it was normal and everyone had that problem. I wait a few hours and it just starts working again.
post #1033 of 1290
Hi, Iam a minimal poster, prefer to lurk. I wanted to read this entire thread before asking my questions. That took a while! I have had my xbr2 for 2 months and have been in HD heaven. I have a PS3 and have the Directv hd20 dvr. I now would like to use my set as a monitor with my ibook G4. Has anyone attempted this? I'm not a novice but not anywhere near a pro. I have done numerous searches but have yet to find some info to help me out, so I ask you. Thanks
post #1034 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by RacinRex View Post

Hi, Iam a minimal poster, prefer to lurk. I wanted to read this entire thread before asking my questions. That took a while! I have had my xbr2 for 2 months and have been in HD heaven. I have a PS3 and have the Directv hd20 dvr. I now would like to use my set as a monitor with my ibook G4. Has anyone attempted this? I'm not a novice but not anywhere near a pro. I have done numerous searches but have yet to find some info to help me out, so I ask you. Thanks

Welcome to the forum, Rex.

First, you don't want to use VGA. The picture will only fill about 2/3 of the screen.

The only solution is component, DVI or HDMI. Does your Apple have any of those?If so, you'll still have a problem with overscan. A 1920x1080 image will be about 5% larger than the TV screen so you'll lose your menu bars, etc. On PCs you have the choice of using the custom resolution feature of the video card (which seems to be not widely supported) or use a program called PowerStrip (which is what I use). I think my resolution is around 1816x1024. I have no idea if any of this is available on the Apple.

Good luck!

TT
post #1035 of 1290
Is it normal for the blacks to have a blue hue to them when watching tv in a dark room? The color black looks fine, like if someone has a black shirt or black letters on a white screen. But when watching a dark movie the shadow detail area has a bluish hue to it, especially the lower left corner. I returned my first XBR2 for this reason, but this one has the same lower left corner problem. Its really distracting. Also on a totally black screen you can really see the bluish hue. I understand that there is always some ambient light on the screen but should it make the screen look blue? I tried adjusting the blue out of the picture but had no luck. Thanks for the help.
post #1036 of 1290
Just wanted to drop a quick note regarding Accu-Cal and the calibration performed by Jeff Meier, whom I believe goes by UMR on these boards.

After hearing many glowing reports on Accu-Cal and specifically on Jeff I contacted him in November of last year. I will willing to wait for his next tour of the Seattle/Portland area and I finally got the work done on August of 2007.

Let me tell you it was well worth the wait. My gear includes a Sony 70 SXRD2, Denon 5800, Martin Logan SL3s, Logos center and sunfire sub.

Personally I was happy with the Sony before calibration but Jeff really made it shine. Apparently the panels were out of alignment from the factory and of course the contrast/brightness/colors were way off. The work performed with my sound system was nothing short of miraculous. I can't believe what I had been missing all these years.

Jeff was a pleasure to work with and well worth the wait. The price was more than reasonable as well. Heck it was less than $100/hr, a bargain considering that he had to travel from TX to get the work done.

Considering the amount of money we enthusiasts have tied up in our gear it is well worth it getting them professionally calibrated. Even with my modest investment in gear I feel that it was a bargain.

Thanks again Jeff and I hope you and yours are doing well.
post #1037 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by G.B. View Post

Test, I am not getting anything from AVS when People respond to the threads. Any one else noticed this???

Yes, although the issue should be resolved now. See here.
post #1038 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdb View Post

Transformers can definitely buzz, usually 60Hz or some harmonic of 60Hz (120Hz or 180Hz would be most common, sometimes a combination of several frequencies). If it is happening because the transformer is just barely touching the circuit board, you may be able to damp the buzzing by wedging (carefully!!!) something non-conductive between the transformer and the circuit board. If that works, you might want to consider epoxying the transformer to the board so that the epoxy fills any tiny gaps between the transformer and board. If the body of the transformer is buzzing, that's harder to stop - you'd have to know how hot the transformer gets while in operation. If it gets hot or even fairly warm, you don't want to do anything that would reduce air cooling.

Does it buzz all the time or only when the lamp is starting? If it is an 'all the time' buzz, it may be a result of loose windings in the transformer. OR it may be a result of distortion of the power line at your home. A problem like that would be fixable by the utility company - but their employees won't have oscilloscopes to look at the waveform and won't know what they are looking at even if they did have oscilloscopes. So unless you have an extraordinary utility that recognizes the value of having a high quality sine wave (more efficient use of electricity by everybody), your only fix is probably getting a power conditioning product that repairs the sine wave completely like an ExactPower EP-15A that costs about $2500. Most products that correct distorted sine waves are going to cost that much or more... unfortunately. You don't want to spend the money without knowing if your problem is your power line though. A friend with an oscilloscope would be a good thing to have to figure out if that's your problem or not. And I guess I should point out that IF the AC sine wave at your house is distorted, getting something that repairs the sine wave may still not stop the buzzing.

The buzz is noticeable the entire time the lamp is lit, and only when the lamp is lit. When the SXRD is powered down, the lamp actually stays on for a few seconds, and then it turns off. The buzz stops the moment the lamp turns off.

I don't know how to get to the transformer to see if that is actually what is buzzing. but I am pretty sure that's what it is.

Besides annoying the hell out of me, are there any other negatives to this? For example, safety problems (the most important one!), shortened life of any components etc.

Thanks!
post #1039 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by djdv8 View Post

Is it normal for the blacks to have a blue hue to them when watching tv in a dark room? The color black looks fine, like if someone has a black shirt or black letters on a white screen. But when watching a dark movie the shadow detail area has a bluish hue to it, especially the lower left corner. I returned my first XBR2 for this reason, but this one has the same lower left corner problem. Its really distracting. Also on a totally black screen you can really see the bluish hue. I understand that there is always some ambient light on the screen but should it make the screen look blue? I tried adjusting the blue out of the picture but had no luck. Thanks for the help.

It is normal for these sets to have blue-tinted blacks/shadows. But it isn't RIGHT. The problem comes from Sony's lack of attention to stopping light leaks into the space behind the screen. A lot of blue light leaks from the optical assembly and that tints the dark colors. Sony also didn't paint the inside of these sets flat black and left shiny silver brackets and such behind the screen where they can reflect light. Frankly, first time I saw what was going on behind the screen, I was AMAZED at how good these sets are given the things Sony didn't do to cut down on internal reflections and light leaks. I LOVE the images on my set. But now that I know what's going on inside, I'm not going to be happy until I've eliminated the light leaks and reflective surfaces inside.
post #1040 of 1290
Eliminating the blue light leakage will be a challenge. Before I explored ways of addressing the problem in depth, I had my original OB replaced due to unacceptable colour uniformity. The replacement is very good and I am satisfied with it.
The interesting thing is that the blue hue to blacks which I had with my original OB, and have observed on other SXRD's is gone with my new OB, so it is something that can be fixed.
The light leakage from my new OB is now almost white and not blue as was the case with my original OB. It seems the new OB is a subtly different design to the original, even though I could not see any obvious differences between them when installing it.
I could see the difference in light leakage immediately when it was fired up, when looking into the OB well with the screen removed.
post #1041 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by DCIFRTHS View Post

The buzz is noticeable the entire time the lamp is lit, and only when the lamp is lit. When the SXRD is powered down, the lamp actually stays on for a few seconds, and then it turns off. The buzz stops the moment the lamp turns off.

I don't know how to get to the transformer to see if that is actually what is buzzing. but I am pretty sure that's what it is.

Besides annoying the hell out of me, are there any other negatives to this? For example, safety problems (the most important one!), shortened life of any components etc.

Thanks!

OK, that's not right. There should be NOTHING buzzing while the TV is operating. If it IS a transfromer, it means the windings may not be tight enough around the core. That means the wire or core is actually vibrating and, yes, over time, that could lead to a transformer failure. If it is just the box around the transformer vibrating (some transformers are inside an outer "box") it may or may not be a threat to the life of the transformer... if the wire windings of the transformer are touching the box causing the box to pick up the vibration of the wires/core, that will eventually wear through the thin insulation on transformer wire and that will cause a failure. Is either issue LIKELY to cause a premature failure of the part? I don't know, but a reasonable guess is that there's maybe a 10% chance the part is destined to fail next week or 8 years from now. Don't tell Sony or the service companyt that though... tell them you are worried about that bad transformer failing, causing the XBR2 to catch on fire, and burning down your house. And you'd HATE to have to go back to Sony and have them make good on THAT problem.

The only other possible source of noise, I think I mentioned earlier is the power coming to your house... if the sine wave is really nasty, it can make some kinds of transformers hum. Do you have hum from transformers in other products in your home - not necessarily as loud as the TV, but noticeable if you are close to the product (AVR, amplifier, other TVs, wall wart power supplies for phones and such... or anything else that has a fairly large transformer in it)?

You shouldn't have to put up with that much noise - that's just WRONG. Several have mentioned a noise while the lamp is STARTING... I can see that happening easily enough, but they say the noise stops once the lamp is working. That should be the most noise you ever hear from this set.

There are several fans in the set - is it possible the buzz you hear is a fan with out-of-balance blades? That would sound like more of a mechanical/rotating buzz, while a transformer buzz would sound more obviously like an electrical buzz. Since at least ONE fan keeps working after the lamp is turned off, I'd say it's unlikely to be a fan, but you never know.
post #1042 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by Owen View Post

Eliminating the blue light leakage will be a challenge. Before I explored ways of addressing the problem in depth, I had my original OB replaced due to unacceptable colour uniformity. The replacement is very good and I am satisfied with it.
The interesting thing is that the blue hue to blacks which I had with my original OB, and have observed on other SXRD's is gone with my new OB, so it is something that can be fixed.
The light leakage from my new OB is now almost white and not blue as was the case with my original OB. It seems the new OB is a subtly different design to the original, even though I could not see any obvious differences between them when installing it.
I could see the difference in light leakage immediately when it was fired up, when looking into the OB well with the screen removed.

Why would it be a challenge to eliminate the light leak? Are there air-flow issues around the area where light leaks that would prevent you from simply covering the area with black flame retardant fabric?

My biggest challenge with improving light handling behind the XBR2 screen is what to use for paint and for adhesive to hold black cloth in place that won't 'out-gas' and cause a fog/haze to form on the mirror, lens or screen. NOTHING is the best solution But that won't help the problem So I've been thinking of water base paint to paint the inside of the cabinet, the silver brackets, and the white tape on the edge of the mirror. I may even remove the black tape on the lens and paint the lens black where the tape was blocking light - I picked up a nice steady hand from painting apertures on CD & DVD player lenses I was planning to perhaps use "hot glue" to hold the black cloth over the light leak area(s) since the 'glue' that goes in the 'hot glue' gun I have is nothing more than plastic that melts at a couple hundred degrees and hardens back to plastic when it cools. Shouldn't be any extra outgassing from that since the whole inside of the cabinet is more or less the same thing. Punch holes through the fabric along the edges, put the hot glue through the hole to leave some 'glue' between the fabric and inside panel, then draw the tip of the glue gun out the hole and leave a blob on the outside like sort of a rivet to hold the cloth in place.

If there are air flow issues, a "frame" made of bent solid wire from Home Depot could be placed where the air has to flow and the cloth can be held to the frame with small wire ties. A "maze" can be made at the end if air has to circulate - that would let air through but block light.

Am I on the right track or am I missing something?
post #1043 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdb View Post

OK, that's not right. There should be NOTHING buzzing while the TV is operating. If it IS a transfromer, it means the windings may not be tight enough around the core. That means the wire or core is actually vibrating and, yes, over time, that could lead to a transformer failure. If it is just the box around the transformer vibrating (some transformers are inside an outer "box") it may or may not be a threat to the life of the transformer... if the wire windings of the transformer are touching the box causing the box to pick up the vibration of the wires/core, that will eventually wear through the thin insulation on transformer wire and that will cause a failure. Is either issue LIKELY to cause a premature failure of the part? I don't know, but a reasonable guess is that there's maybe a 10% chance the part is destined to fail next week or 8 years from now. Don't tell Sony or the service companyt that though... tell them you are worried about that bad transformer failing, causing the XBR2 to catch on fire, and burning down your house. And you'd HATE to have to go back to Sony and have them make good on THAT problem.

Well, safety is my main concern. Following that is picture quality, longevity etc. I also live in a co-op, and it wouldn't be just my house that would burn down. I wish everyone else felt the same way. I can't ell you how many overloaded circuits people have in their houses

I had two dedicated 20 amp circuits run for my AV gear as I have a B&K power amp that sucks lot of power (along with all the other components that are plugged in). I figured with all juice I'm pulling, it's better to be safe than sorry. Since I needed an outlet for the amp, I had the electrician run another circuit so that all my AV gear is on these two lines (off the same leg in the breaker box ).

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdb View Post

The only other possible source of noise, I think I mentioned earlier is the power coming to your house... if the sine wave is really nasty, it can make some kinds of transformers hum. Do you have hum from transformers in other products in your home - not necessarily as loud as the TV, but noticeable if you are close to the product (AVR, amplifier, other TVs, wall wart power supplies for phones and such... or anything else that has a fairly large transformer in it)?

I don't hear buzzing from any of my other devices. I put my ear right up the toroidal transformers in the B&K and my preamp - no buzz. I know these types of transformers are inherently quieter by design, but even my Sony flat panel, and devices as small as my network switches are quiet. I have my TV plugged into a Panamax 5100-EX, but that's not the source of the noise because even if I plug the TV directly into the wall, it still buzzes.


Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdb View Post

There are several fans in the set - is it possible the buzz you hear is a fan with out-of-balance blades? That would sound like more of a mechanical/rotating buzz, while a transformer buzz would sound more obviously like an electrical buzz. Since at least ONE fan keeps working after the lamp is turned off, I'd say it's unlikely to be a fan, but you never know.

It's definitely not the main fan, as it continues to run after the TV is powered off, and the buzz stops as soon as the lamp turns off. This fan continues to run for a good minute or two after the bulb is off. I have also turned the cooling mode to high to see if the intensity of the buzz changed with the faster spinning fan(s), but it stays exactly the same.

A really good way to eliminate the other two fans as the source of the buzz is if anyone can answer this question for me: Do all three fans speed up when the set is placed into high cooling mode?

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdb View Post

You shouldn't have to put up with that much noise - that's just WRONG. Several have mentioned a noise while the lamp is STARTING... I can see that happening easily enough, but they say the noise stops once the lamp is working. That should be the most noise you ever hear from this set.

I totally agree. I think my set is around 6 months old, so I am still covered under warranty. I was so put off by the last service tech they sent, that I got frustrated, and haven't complained to Sony yet. I am going to though.

Does anyone have a link to the application for extending my warranty through Sony? The only link I can find on Sony Style is to the Canadian extended warranty.
post #1044 of 1290
I did quick measurements with ColorFacts Professional and a Spyder2Platinum colorimeter using the Medium aperture setting and Auto 2 setting to see what the difference in contrast ratio would be.

If you measure 1000 for a white screen and 1 for a black screen, your contrast ratio is 1000:1... which is actually pretty good for most displays (CRTs may do better than that if setup right) but few displays can do better than that with a fixed aperture on the lens.

If you measure 1222 for white and .47 for black your contrast ratio is 1222/.47 or 2600:1 - and this will look WAY better to you in terms of black blacks and bright whites than the 1000:1 contrast ratio.

Anyway, back to the XBR2 measurements...

With the aperture fixed at Medium, the contrast ratio measured about 1200:1 which is pretty darn good for 1080p displays that are available right now.

However, switching to Auto 2 and re-measuring produces a contrast ratio of more than 13,000:1... more than a 10X change.

Now... there is a trick behind this measurement. It was done with a completely black screen (as black as the XBR2 can make anyway) and a completely white screen. I also had to wait about 15 or 20 seconds for the iris to open for the white screen and close for the black screen. Remember, the goal of the Auto Iris settings is to make whites whiter and blacks blacker... or to increase the contrast ratio. So the all-black and all-white measurement technique favors the Auto Iris setting in a HUGE way.

If you put up a black and white checkerboard and measure 1 white square and one black square the contrast ratio comes out around 1200:1 no matter what Iris setting you use because the checkerboard screen presents an average of 'gray' so the Iris parks somewhere in the middle of its range and just stays there. (assuming the iris is open half-way for 50% gray, 100% open for all-white, and closed to minimum for black... it might vary from that scenario somewhat, I'm not real sure if the iris is on a simple linear thing or if there is some curve to how it adjusts for different screen lighting.

Anyway, the point is when screen content is 'average' the Auto Iris setting doesn't do anything one way or the other. But when a scene goes dark and the iris closes to make blacks blacker, you get some SERIOUS improvement in black level without losing shadow detail AND without giving up bright whites needed to make brighter scenes come alive. Set the aperture to Minimum and whites aren't going to be very bright... even in a dark room.

The slowness of the Auto Iris settings is good and bad... the slowness of the aperture changes tend to make it difficult to even tell the aperture is changing. The only time it might be noticeable is if the screen goes from a dark scene to a completely white screen (I've seen this on some TV show... maybe something on HBO or Showtime, I can't remember). In that case the white screen is quite a shock, then it continues to get brighter and brighter for 10 - 20 seconds as the iris opens all the way. But there's not much programming like that. Most movies stay dark for a while, stay in mid-tones for a while and go to bright scenes for a while... the iris won't be making drastic changes in those cases so when it does move, the moves are small and slow and are very very hard to detect.

So... Auto Iris is mostly your friend... at least the way Sony implemented it for the XBR2s. It's very tough to detect in use for typical movies and TV programming. The rare case when you can see it brighten whites or darken blacks is usually over so fast, it's inconsequential compared to 90 to 150 minutes of superior contrast ratio during a great movie.
post #1045 of 1290
Maxdb: The autoiris definitely helps contrast but as was explained in an UMR calibration report it will affect accurate color performance. So one has to pick which is most important to them.
post #1046 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxdb View Post

Why would it be a challenge to eliminate the light leak? Are there air-flow issues around the area where light leaks that would prevent you from simply covering the area with black flame retardant fabric?

My biggest challenge with improving light handling behind the XBR2 screen is what to use for paint and for adhesive to hold black cloth in place that won't 'out-gas' and cause a fog/haze to form on the mirror, lens or screen. NOTHING is the best solution But that won't help the problem So I've been thinking of water base paint to paint the inside of the cabinet, the silver brackets, and the white tape on the edge of the mirror. I may even remove the black tape on the lens and paint the lens black where the tape was blocking light - I picked up a nice steady hand from painting apertures on CD & DVD player lenses I was planning to perhaps use "hot glue" to hold the black cloth over the light leak area(s) since the 'glue' that goes in the 'hot glue' gun I have is nothing more than plastic that melts at a couple hundred degrees and hardens back to plastic when it cools. Shouldn't be any extra outgassing from that since the whole inside of the cabinet is more or less the same thing. Punch holes through the fabric along the edges, put the hot glue through the hole to leave some 'glue' between the fabric and inside panel, then draw the tip of the glue gun out the hole and leave a blob on the outside like sort of a rivet to hold the cloth in place.

If there are air flow issues, a "frame" made of bent solid wire from Home Depot could be placed where the air has to flow and the cloth can be held to the frame with small wire ties. A "maze" can be made at the end if air has to circulate - that would let air through but block light.

Am I on the right track or am I missing something?

A large barrel fan circulates air over the light engine. You can’t cover any part of the light engine to prevent light leakage without risk of overheating the OB.
You also can’t cover the area around the lens to block leakage as this will also restrict cooling.
All you can do is extend the length of the cover over the OB as I have done to prevent light getting onto the screen.

I find that good quality mate black paint is more effective then the cloth I used.
I used normal solvent based paint, and it should be allowed a couple of days to dry before replacing the screen.

The mirror is held by white plastic strips, not tape. I used a black marker pen to black them out.
post #1047 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by DCIFRTHS View Post


Does anyone have a link to the application for extending my warranty through Sony? The only link I can find on Sony Style is to the Canadian extended warranty.

Is this what your looking for?

http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/...0151&langId=-1
post #1048 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by gvg45 View Post

Is this what your looking for?

http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/...0151&langId=-1


Yes, although I thought that I could purchase an extended warranty as long as my original warranty had not expired???
post #1049 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by DCIFRTHS View Post

Yes, although I thought that I could purchase an extended warranty as long as my original warranty had not expired???

I am fairly certain you are correct, unless Sony recently changed their policy. I would call that 800 number and talk to someone.
post #1050 of 1290
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwiss View Post

Maxdb: The autoiris definitely helps contrast but as was explained in an UMR calibration report it will affect accurate color performance. So one has to pick which is most important to them.

If you calibrate with the Auto Iris enabled and use full-screen 30% and 80% white fields and WAIT for the iris to catch up when you change from dark to light and vice versa (about 20 seconds of waiting each time you change), the impact of the auto iris on color reproduction would be minimal. You have to use the full field 80% white field to force the Iris in Auto Mode to open fully). It doesn't really matter if you use the 30% (or 20% if you have no light leaking problem) field in a window with black border or full-screen. Either way, the iris seems to close all the way or most of the way. The window with black border would tend to make the iris close even more than the full screen 30%/20% field so perhaps that's the best way to go for the dark calibration point... but you definitely need full-screen 80% white to get the Auto Iris open most of the way.

My particular XBR2 leaks so much blue light behind the screen, I can't use the 20% white field... it throws the whole gray scale and calibration off. But the 30% field works fine without color problems. Once I get behind the screen again and eliminate all the reflective surfaces and stop the blue light leak, I will re-calibrate using the 20% white field.

If you calibrate with the Iris in any FIXED position, then turn on either Auto Iris mode, you are asking for color calibration problems. Though I suppose you could calibrate the dark field with the aperture in Minumum and the 80% field with the aperture in Maximum and end up with the same result as Auto 2 - maybe. But waiting the 20 seconds seems like less of a hassle.

So far, the cal readings I am getting are not indicating the SLIGHTEST color problem when using 30% (again, only because the blue light leak in the XBR2 makes the 20% field navy blue instead of close to black) field. I'll have to see what happens when I get a Minolta spectroradiometer to use instead of the Spyder2Platinum - and when I get the blue light leak fixed. I'm actually getting an incredibly good gray scale from 30% to 100% with Auto Iris enabled... 20% and 10% and 0% aren't what they could be if the internal reflections and blue light leak were gone. Using the 20% field to calibrate an XBR2 with a blue light leak will compromise color more than anything else I've seen so far. You just have to put up with the blue-blacks until it can be fixed.
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