Owners ONLY thread >>> 60"/70" XBR2 <<< Settings/Tweaks - Page 38

Does anyone have a service manual for this set (or the KDS-R70XBR2 if indeed they are different for the 60 and 70 inch) in pdf form they would be willing to share?

TIA

BeachComber, PM Me Your email so I can send S. Manual..

Are there any updates for the firmware on the xbr2 60 inch if so is it a good idea to stay current or is it somthing I should not worry about?
thanks

There are a *lot* of settings for color space and gamma in the service menu. Without specific data on what each register represents, I've basically stuck to user menu settings for now. My current settings are in the post linked by my signature, though take note that my white balance settings are directly tied to my hue modification. Also note that my S3 TiVo input has the only useful set of settings for most people.

I should probably get at least a moderately-useful meter if I'm going to go further with tweaking things like grayscale. Right now I'm eyeballing it. The steaming rat method of calibration has served me well, but it's invariably true that when you get certain things (e.g. gamma curve) dialed in accurately, it will make other settings better, even if they're subjective.

Since I work with low-level graphics programming for a living, I'm actually really good at seeing color nuances, especially on a grayscale. Thus, I think my grayscale is pretty consistent from top to bottom, but that doesn't mean it's true 6500K and not tinted. It could be consistently tinted blue or orange, since all I'm doing is making it consistent.

I've been looking at the pre-calibration report strutter posted that was supposed to be using my settings, but I'm having a hard time believing my grayscale's temperature averages about 11000K and gets considerably higher at the low end. My grays are just not that blue, and my low end certainly doesn't seem to be that purple. I guess our sets could be really different, but I doubt it. I think maybe his calibrator reset the user settings before starting, because the factory default settings are *very* blue, just like the pre-calibration report indicates. So, I have no reliable data, except from my eyes, to tell me how accurate my methods have been.

Let me (us) know what you come up with in your own attempts. I'm sure many of us would be very interested.

No Updates Yet... http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/mod...SR60XBR2&LOC=3 http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/mod...mdl=KDSR60XBR2

I've never heard of any firmware updates for the XBR2 series.
Even if there was it would need to be applied by a service person because of not having any USB or memory card slots.

Of course that's just my take on it, someone else may have hard facts about it.

So yea, I wouldn't worry about it.

i had applied your settings with the original bulb at about 1000hrs.
i noticed a shift to blue imediately when i changed my bulb before calibration. the PQ with the new bulb was bluer and brighter. the blue was most noticeable in whites
the original bulb had about 3500 hrs on it and the calibrator suggested i change it before calibration. i had around 100 hrs on the replacement bulb at calibration.

Heh, I'm still using my original bulb. It has 5750 hours on it. It seems to be doing fine. I always run in power saving mode, maybe that's why. I wonder how much the bulb has shifted in color, and if my whites are really that much more orange than they used to be. They look white to me, but subjective "white" is very subjective. Hmm, interesting. I need a meter. I keep saying that. I should probably get one.

Come to think of it, I should mention in my post that I have power saving on. It does affect white.

I don't know if anyone's been following the SD overscan service menu tweaks I've been revising 10 times a day for the last few days in my tweak post, but if you have and you've tried them out, be sure to check the revised values and the note about the user menu size setting.

The problem is that I had forgot I had set the user menu's Vertical Size to -1 for Zoom mode to compensate a little for the excessive overscan. Since the main goal of my overcan tweaks is to get letterboxed material to just barely fill Zoom mode instead of being horribly overscanned, this information was important. If you're trying my service menu values, get the current ones and set the user menu Vertical Size back to 0 in Zoom.

Wow... 5750 hrs, that's just amazing on XBR2 since Sony rate the bulb for only 4000 hrs..

Do u notice the PQ or Brightness very low compare to the first few months of ur set?

Since these sets do such a bad job upconverting SD, I'm using a surround processor with a video processor in it (HQV) and getting much better results, but that sends everything to the XBR2 as 1080p. And 1080p has a surprising amount of "zoom" applied in Full mode... I lose a surprising amount of image on all 4 sides. Is there a setting anywhere for getting the XBR2s closer to 1-to-1 pixel mapping when they are receiving 1920x1080 images? I have 10 or 20 hours in the service menu! LOL! but it was all 3 months ago - I had a different display here for 3 months and was using it exclusively, now I'm back to the XBR2. That other display had a 1-to-1 pixel mapping mode and it showed every pixel (it was a new plasma which had other issues the XBR2s don't have). After getting used to that, I was rather surprised by how much image I was losing with the XBR2.

I think you mentioned in another post that you were thinking about a meter. I have an expensive meter (Minolta CS-200) and a Spyder2... some of the Spyder2's measurements are way out of whack compared to the CS-200. The differences are easy to see... Spyder2 calibrations come out too warm and are worst at the dark end of the gray scale. I haven't had experience with any measurement devices between those 2 extremes of price and performance.

Thee's a setting in the service menu that was set to 6000, which I assumed was lamp hours, and it appeared (from the name of the setting) to control a message that may have something to do with replacing the lamp. With as many hours as you have accumulated on the lamp, you may be seeing this message when you get to 6000 hours. If it turns into a pain and you want to keep going on the same lamp, you may be able to increase the number in the service menu. I'm pretty sure it was in the PANEL menu because that's the only one I've been using lately and I did see this setting recently. I wish I had more detail - but I'm not at home as I post this.

i just noticed last night i have black dot in the middle of my screen. at first i thought i had a pixel out but when i looked up close it has an irregular shape. this makes me think it's dust.

any ideas? i have extended warranty from sony. should i make a service call?
i'm reluctant to open up the set and try to clean the dust as i'm not too handy with things like that. would probably end up with even more dust inside.

my original bulb would probably still be going strong too. i only changed it because UMR told me to.
i didnt notice any changes while watching the old bulb. i suppose because it degrades so slowly. but the new bulb was noticably brighter and bluer.

i saved the old bulb for emergency only use.

I think I saw somewhere in the service menu that the lamp replacement warning actually goes off at 6000 hours. Plus that rating is probably for full power use, not power saving.


Not really. Seems fine to me. But it's all subjective. I know if I turn off power saving, it's a little brighter and bluer, but you'd expect that. I'm not sure if it's better, just brighter and bluer. A brighter lamp is just going to make my black level higher anyway, so I don't mind if it's a little dimmer.

Hm, I thought it was pretty good, once I turned on Cinemotion. Not top-of-the-line, but really pretty good. My old Elite 510HD had one of the best in-set SD upconverters around, so I'm kinda picky about SD PQ, too. If you had Cinemotion on, I wonder if the HQV is really that much better. I should check one out.


The XBR2 *is* 1-to-1 at 1920x1080. The problem is that aligning projection systems isn't perfect, especially considering jostling in transit, so it's projected to overlap the edges a bit to avoid obvious misalignment. Thus you have innate overscan of about 2% per side. The viewable area is generally something like 1816x1024. That's just life with RPTV vs. life with direct-view lcd/plasma/oled. I think they overdid it a bit on this TV, though.


Thanks for the tip. I don't intend to cheap out if I buy one, so it's useful information.


Funny coincidence, I just mentioned this in my last post. I may indeed bump it up, since I see no reason to replace my lamp at this point. In fact, at this rate, with two replacement bulbs on hand, I can probably go 6-8 years without buying another bulb.

I always wondered why Sony put a user visible timer and second lamp in this particular set. Putting aside the obvious revenue enhancement explanation, what happens after 4,000 hours? A major color shift? A drastic drop off in light output?

I'm sure many will choose to keep their lamps in service after the warning. It will be interesting to see what happens.

What color/saturation settings are you guys using? My initial (6-8months ago) basic calibration using Avia put Color at 44 and Hue at G1. I ran the patterns again, and this time I'm arriving at at Color 50 and Hue 0. I don't understand it though, because at 50 the picture really does look over-saturated. Any thoughts?

vinuneuro--

I use a Hue of G 2 to fudge too-magenta reds back towards pure red. However, that fudge requires some complementary fudging in the white balance to look right. It's not correct, but it's not actually possible to be correct on this TV without using the service menu. It's more of a re-distribution of a couple of large errors into several smaller errors, to look better overall, especially in flesh tones.

I use a Color of 48. YMMV.

These are with Color Temperature set to Warm 1.

See the link in my signature for (a lot) more details on the settings I've spent a long time dialing in, tick-by-tick.

I made a post in the general XBR2 forum regarding how my bulb changed over time:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...postcount=7181

I just got a PS3 and am tweaking on my XBR2.

I've read the various posts in the owner's thread and I'm a little confused with regards to BD and SD content displaying at either 24fps vs 60fps. I know 24fps is what movie films are shot at and are presumably what the director intended the audience to see.

I think I also understand that the XBR2 outputs everything at 60fps but handles 24fps by doing something called 3:2 pulldown.

So if this is true, which scenario is better?

1.) Have PS3 pass TV 1080p/24fps video signal and have TV do 3:2 pull down.
2.) Have PS3 pass TV 1080p/60fps video signal all the time. (Would this be the same as the PS3 - in effect - doing the 3:2 pulldown vs. the TV doing it?
3.) Something else?

Without starting any 24fps debate all over again, help me understand anything I'm missing or may be confused about.

johnc66:

Edit: I wrote the following at work. I was wrong when I said I'd set mine to 24fps output successfully in the past. I don't know what I did or thought I did, but it certainly does not work when I do it now. Thus, most of the info below is academic. You have to have the ps3 at 60fps, doing 2:3 pulldown for you.

People have said that the XBR2 can accept 24fps input. It did seem to work when I set my own ps3+xbr2 to use 24fps.

However, as you say, it appears that the refresh rate is not changed from 60fps at the lcos panels. If the TV were switching to 72fps at the lcos panels when input was 24fps, that would be another story. I don't think it is, though I'm not sure if anyone's ever truly tested the theory. That means some device, somewhere between the disc and the lcos panels, has to be doing telecine with 2:3 pulldown.

The only real question that ought to matter is how they do the pulldown.

If every device between the disc and the panels will simply repeat the A,A,B,B,B pattern over and over, then it doesn't really matter which device does it. If there's any chance of viewing interlaced source material (e.g. 480i), it's definitely better to have the player do it, because the TV has less information about the intended results and can make mistakes.

If the TV is doing A,A,avg(A,B),B,B to fake a transition frame to reduce juddering, then it's down to whether or not you can see the combined frame and whether or not it bothers you. I don't think the TV is doing that, though. In fact, I don't know if any devices actually go to the bother for pulldown. I think it's always A,A,B,B,B. Crisp image generally supersedes reduced judder.

There have been a few requests for the XBR2 service manual. The file is huge (20MB) and therefore emailing it has been a real hassle. So I threw it out on my personal anonymous ftp server, along with a few other files that show my calibration settings, viewing angle guides, user manual, 4:3 to 16:9 conversion, etc.

ftp://72.188.153.16/AVS/

Enjoy!

HappyFunBoater, This has been My problem...I have 3 that want it but can not email. Sony had it on the Web for a short time. If someone has Messenger You can slide & click & send... I did it to a friend & it works. I can not open what You have ? I want to see if Your's is newer with more updates ?

Are you running Windows? You should be able to just click on the link and it will list the files in an Explorer window. Can you cut-and-paste the address to an Explorer window? If that doesn't work, remove the "/AVS" at the end and see what happens.

Sorry, What this is not working. do you have http:// first ? Ok I get the same I need permission to open ... If You can open ? Copy all the address line & send. Thanks...

No, this is an ftp site, not an http site. The entire address bar should have only ftp://72.188.153.16/AVS/. The "http" or "ftp" text tells the browser/explorer window what sort of protocal to use to reach that address.

I suppose it's possible your firewall is blocking access to ftp sites. That would be odd, but it's possible. Make sure port 21 is open. For comparison, http uses port 80 and is typically open by default.

If You wish try sending to My personal email...I will try at home ... Our server here may be stopping it..

happy.
i have the PDF but for the heck of it i tried opening yours. i can get to the files when i click your link but when i click 60_70_xbr f and the 60xbr2_sm.pdf and the visio-xbr2 stand pdf it gets stuck about halfway through the download and its really slow getting to the halfway point. at about 4 bars i waited 3 min. and it never moved any further so i stopped it. the tv conversion xls has a popup asking for a password but if i cancel that then click read only on the next popup i can view it. just thought id let you know.

[quote=G.B.;12977641I have 3 that want it but can not email. [/QUOTE]

i have used a program called filesplitter to send it to a few people. it can be downloaded for free here http://www.dekabyte.com/filesplitter/ if you want to try it.

I checked the log and it looked like you got in on the last attempt. Earlier attempts tried to use GB as your login, but the last one used anonymous, which is correct. Try it at home and let me know what happens.

E-mail is painfully slow, but if you can't get it to work at home I will email it to you. You need to make sure you have an account that can accept a 20MB file. Many ISPs, like RoadRunner, limit you to 10GB total. Gmail works fine. I think Hotmail and Yahoo would be ok, too.